Thanks for this - very useful. I can think of one further reason why a relative beginner might use a sight-mounted clicker in the first instance like I did. The one I had was really loud and dropped with a 'clunk' making it easier to hear. In a noisy sports hall, it can be difficult for the beginner to realise that the clicker has gone off (especially if they are older and maybe getting a bit deaf). Once I had got the hang of the noisy sight-mounted clicker I moved on to a bow-mounted clicker a couple of years ago and haven't looked back. I think more experienced archers feel the vibration of the clicker in the riser, more than hearing the sound it makes. Just a thought! Peter
For my setup while getting into recurve archery I started with 28# limbs, then 34# and now finally 38#. I used a sight mounted clicker throughout this process as I started with 30" long shafts and cut an inch off every 4 pounds of draw weight. This has worked well for me. Once I can move up to 42# I will be down to 28" which is just shy of an inch past my draw length; at which point I'll switch to a riser mounted clicker. Basically what you just said. I'm just here to agree with the Sensei.
NUSensei I'm sure you didn't go into more detail in the interest of brevity however it might confuse some viewers if the difference between static and dynamic spine is not mentioned. If an arrow is shortened it increases dynamic spine. The static spine of the arrow remains unchanged. Thanks again. The last two videos on clickers were greatly appreciated.
Nu, there are actually clickers that sit on the bow limbs. They attach to the bottom limb and click when you reach full draw; they're very common in Traditional barebow archery. One of them is the 'Klickety Klick Clicker'. www.lancasterarchery.com/klickety-klick-clicker.html and another is the Crick-It Draw Check Clicker from 3Rivers Archery. These _can_ be mounted on interchangeable limbs.
I'm considering one of these as my riser does not have a bushing for a clicker or clicker strike plate. I have a clicker that mounts under the sight mounting bracket, but it is a pain to adjust, both because it uses a single grub screw to tighten and loosen it, which moves the adjustment as you do so, but also because I must remove the sight bar itself to get to said grub screw. Just another reason in case anyone was looking for another
I am interested in using a clicker just to train back tension in barebow blank bale sessions. I need a clicker that will work with arrows that will extend 2 3/4 inches past the riser and are riser mounted. Can you suggest any models that would meet those specifications? I have no problem with making my own extended clicker plate. Thank you.
I had to use the AAE sight mounted clicker on my first Cartel takedown bow because the bushing on the riser was the wrong thread size for most clickers
Nika extender clicker needs to fit a wide sight rod and it can be locked neatly, if the sight rod is not wide or the width of the sight rod is a bit 'thin' ... it becomes useless ..
Nu, what hex key is used for the brass ring on the aae extended clicker? I can not get it off with normal allan-keys 4/64, 5/64 of 6/64. I bought a set in inches instead of metric because of the 7/64 for the mounting, to no avail. You actually need 3different hexagonal keys for this, and I had to fabricate an wooden wedge block that fits my sight bar. Cumbersome... do you know what key to use on the brass ring? Thank you! Love your advice.
I bought a new set of 12 arrows for my recurve and the shop sent me the wrong spine I ordered, I had to resort to using the sight mounted clicker I had lying around.. Sure glad I had it.. without it I was screwed..
The majority of Easton arrows have recommended point weights and a range either side of that weight that they offer.... Heavier and heavier point weight on shorter arrow shafts to weaken the spine will cause FOC issue... It could work but you're better off having the correct spine arrow in the first place that in theory will be correct with the point just infront of the riser allowing you to use the bow mounted clicker
You didn't mention one more disadvantage to using a sight mounted clicker - it contributes to ruining the balance of the bow. A sight is mounted to the side of the riser which already puts a weight off the axis of the bow. Adding additional weight to the sight just disrupts the balance further. In fact I think that is one of the reasons why your bow swings behind your back after each shot instead of in front of you. You might want to add some weights to the stabilizer on the opposite side of the sight as an experiment. I know it solved the balance issues in my case.
I don't think that's true.... How do you explain bare bow archers pulling their bow backwards after the shot or stretch band exercises where you practice your draw and release... There's no balance issue there It's probably due to unnecessary tension and push pulling draw/shot technique
The clicker barely has any weight to it. Adding the clicker onto the sight bar isn't going to suddenly swing the bow in the opposite direction. I've been swinging the bow behind my back long before I used the sight clicker.
@@b12khx89 I don't really see how that disproves my point. It's true that with barebow archery the upper limb moves towards the archer because physics, but while it does move towards the archer, it does not move to the side. And one of the reasons it doesn't is because there is nothing attached to the side of the riser to disrupt the balance. You can actually see it for yourself - string your bow, attach the sight and hold the bow to see how it's balanced in the hand. In compound archery the sights are even heavier than in recurve and because of that you often see archers using a side stablizer on the opposite side of where the sight is attached. Now, I'm not saying that sights are bad and I'm not saying that your bow will swing behind your back just because you use a sight. There are, as you've said, other factors at play. The way you hold the bow, the way your bowhand works, etc. So while the weight of the sight is not the problem in and on itself, it objectively puts the weight on the side of your bow which you have to work around with your form. And the clicker just ever so slightly contributes to that.
@@NUSensei I'm not saying that the sight mounted clicker is a root of all evil. As you've said - it does not weight much, so it obviously can not cause a problem in and on itself, but it can contribute to one. Objectively speaking the sight adds weight to one side of the bow. It's not that much of a problem in recurve archery, but if you look at compound shooters who have heavy sights you'll notice that they use side stabilizers on the side of their bows opposite to where the sight is mounted. Precisely to counter the balance issue. I used to use a Decut DC-RE sight on the first olympic recurve I'd got after getting into archery. It was quite a heavy sight and my bow swung behind my back after each shot. Adding weights to the side stabilizer made it swing in front of me. Of course there were other issues with my form that made the bow swing that way but a sight weight contributed to the effect. And adding additional weight to the sight might nontribute to that effect further. Not cause it, contribute. I still think you should try adding weights to the side stabilizer - as en experiment - or shoot without a sight altogether just to see how your bow behaves. That's just a suggestion though.
The ones that are tied to the string and the limb serve the same function as other clicker types. They make a noise when you get to the right draw length. There are also psychosomatic clickers that work by having the archer slide his/her nail over a ridge on their finger tab until it "clicks" off to give themselves a prompt to let go of the string.
I think those magnetic clickers are horrible. After AAE made their new style of sight extension mounted clicker, there's no excuse for using the magnetic one. This is the new model: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EH1K6I5xcrs.html
True. I feel that it would still be a somewhat clumsier option if you had to do adjustments on the line, while you simply have to nudge the riser-mounted clicker.
@@NUSensei I remember there is one that you could mount a normal clicker on the sigh-clicker, you can nudge it too, but quite expensive I guess. Anyhow, in my experience, sight clicker usually affects the performance.
The thing is that the bows on Wish are simply the original factory models that other Chinese companies rebrand. Any bow you buy off Wish is probably what we know in the market as a Junxing, Mandarin Duck, Jandao, etc. I did a quick spotlight in a recent livestream where we basically identified all the Wish bows.
I know you made older videos separately about arrows, and draw lengths, and limb sizes. But can you make another video specifically on arrow tuning? Giving examples of if you have a 40lb bow at 60" and your arrows have a 750 spine then you most likely want an arrow that is X inches long. And other sort of standard examples of that nature. Thanks in advance
That's not really how it works, and it's...actually not as complicated as people make it out to be. Most of the time you just need to know your draw length, your draw weight, and then consult an arrow chart to pick the right arrow. There are arrow calculators which do a far better job of automating the process if you know all the parameters than if I tried to make a 30-minute video to explain every detail.
