Everything you need to know about stabilisers: how long should they be? How much weight do you need? What angle should be the V-bars and side-rods be set at? Do I even need stabilisers? === Follow me on Facebook: / nusensei
I've been watching you're vids for a couple of years now and you've help loads with the learning curve of getting into archery. I'm now getting results that's even challenging the best archers in my club. Keep it up! You're advice is really making a difference and is very much appreciated. Cheers.....
Thank you for all your excellent videos NUSensei. I am starting out in archery and your videos have helped tremendously. 1 point about stabilizers that may help to clarify the physics. Like the way we stretch out our arms when trying to keep our balance, or a tight rope walker using a long stick, the stabilization effect is not simply adding weight, but spreading the weights out from center, thus increasing angular momentum. In other words, having weights at the ends of the extended rods makes it harder to pivot the bow in any direction quickly. So in order not to make the whole setup too heavy, I think it is better to have a lighter bow and use the stabilizers with proper weights.
G'day David Chen ---- I am a fan of what you said. ... for that reason, I love the lightest possible mass-weight Riser I can find, with the lightest possible Long Rods & Side Rods I can find, with the lightest possible V-Bar I got Custom made. That way, I allow all the many Weights fitted onto the distal Ends, to do all their glorious [heavy / lol] work for me.
This is a great video. Very well explained for what is a very hard topic. I had to play around with lengths and weights quite a bit before I found something that felt right to me. In my case I found I liked quite a positive bow drop forward after release which required a longer extender and a little more weight. If you can, borrow other club members kit and experiment :)
Leon Smith, it has taken me many $$$ with much frustration to experiment with all the different Damper Models. I wish manufacturers would, at the very least, classify Dampers as soft / medium / hard, where soft is recommended for 1 - 3 ounces; where medium is recommended for 4 - 8 ounces; where hard is recommended for 9 - 16 ounces. That way, I could ignore ones which are classified outside my needs range....
18:20 This is exactly why I took some of my weights off my bow last night. Sadly, I realised this halfway through a Portsmouth round, so although it improved my scores, I probably could have done better if I'd done it before I started!
what is your honest opinion on beiter centralizers? I used to have one years ago and now getting back into archery I wondered if people still use them. many thanks
So I started out with bare bow/ beginning bow white limbs wooded riser loved my bow but my shoot start to get better after I pick up a long rod cartel dynamic 28" but after a year with that bow I needed something better and more parts so now I have a samick advante bow full stabilizer set better sight clicker Mini damper plunger and rest. I'm shooting very well now but I had to go throw that to get where I am now
hi ,just wanted to ask you if it matters if I have different brands of stabilizers on my bow ie doinker long rod and mybo short rod. keep up the great videos.
billy1858 --- No problemo !! Mix 'n' Match to your heart's delight -- stiffer goes with stiffer / higher carbon content goes with higher carbon content. Brand loyalty hardly matters ! What really matters is how much you paid --- more is better (is that right, NU Sensei hee hee hee)
Nice video! This answered a lot of questions I had from before. However, one question still remains. At full draw, shooting the top target at 18m, my bow arms tends to drop. Is this something that is remedied best with balancing the bow towards the rear with the siderods and removing the extender bar, tightening the top tiller, and/or something else? I went up in weight by 4 pounds (which is the extent of how much weight I can increase without totally ruining my form) to get a flatter trajectory, but I still experience this problem.
It could well be a basic technique problem. If you're attempting to aim at the top face by raising your front arm rather than maintaining your normal position but pivoting at the hips then it can result in you struggling to keep the bow high enough for the top face.
Thanks for the advice! I shoot 30# now. I tried the pivoting when I was at 26#, but it was at such at an extreme angle for my core that it threw my balance way off. I guess I'll try it again. Is there a minimum poundage that this technique is accomplished at with a 28" draw? Any other pointers?
Jeremey Woodford Some people prefer differing grip angles. I'm a fan of the idea that there is no "high" "medium" or "low" grip, as it is all relative to the archer. I prefer a grip a tad bit higher than the stock grip, but while I refer to it as a high grip I've seen other people with their bow hand in a nearly straight angle in relation to their arm.
need to know of the brand of stabiliser of brand to perchase, I order these stapiliser for700 ,oo and getting this and ordering a guillo gt riser for a formula linbs long??
Hi Nu, i recently got a vbar but i noticed it doesn't come with a washer, but the side rod and longs rods do, i think they are nylon, do you need a washer for the riser to vbar or riser to extender? Or just put it on without the washer?
Phong Chiem - - - nylon helps to prevent threads coming loose due to excessive vibration. And that is all nylon does. Therefor put V-Bar on W/out any washers. Or you can apply some Plumber's Tape [also called PTFE Tape] to the threads if you find you are being DISTRACTED by threads coming loose after every 1 - 2 shots . . .
Hi is the top damper the Cartel Midas 101 Damper? I bought the Cartel Midas Weight Damper. I am just wondering how useful are dampers and are short or long ones better?
G'day Shaun Lich The length of the Top Damper [also called Up Stabilizer] is about what looks good TO YOU!! If you like the looks of short 1inch to 3inch, be happy. If you like the looks of long 4-1/2inch to 8inch, be happy. The function of Top Damper is to minimise felt [& heard] vibration [post shot] as much as practicable.
Just a small correction for 2:15 : The mass of your bow does not change, that would be awesome but it will not happen ;) The center of gravity will travel closer to your face when you draw the bow, but mass will stay the same.
well technically the mass of the bow really changes as you draw. potential energy you put into the system increases the mass of the system, as Einstein's theory of relativity dictates, probably by a nanogram or so. :) i do believe that was a slip of tongue by Nu. pretty sure he meant to say "center of mass" instead of "mass".
At time 10:43 you arrive at the Extender. The concept of adding extra rear weights &/or farther back rear weight being necessary to UNDO / CORRECT the [now] excessive forward balance CREATED DUE TO the presence of Extender, is a popular and a commonly repeated claim. Of itself, this claim seems to make good horse sense. . . . . . . . . And surely this claim is a valid one. . . . . . . . . . but I cannot believe that this is the only change and effect brought about by the presence of Extender. . . . I believe at least two other changes / effects are brought about due to presence of Extender. . . . . . . The point I wish to add is If the bow is torqued, then that rotation will [normally] be about the virtual fulcrum. Now if the physical connection point of the V-Bar, with its associated two Rear rods, attaches out - the - end of a newly installed Extender, where all balance has been 'corrected' / restored to PRE-EXTENDER balance, then I believe there MUST BE some resistance / deviation to the virtual rotation axis. Surely the presence of installed Extender will to some degree "mess up" / "meddle with" free rotation exactly at the virtual fulcrum. {Due to offset attachment points going in differing spatial directions. I would like much comment on this issue I have raised. If I am wrong, why am I wrong / where is my thinking off-track ?????? Unrelated to my concerns raised, please note some people prefer to leave their V-Bar permanently bolted to an Extender. When they therefore unscrew their Extender, to pack up their bow at day's end, the Extender + V-Bar + i Bolt all detatch as a single unit. This is a convenience which won't be there when V-Bar is bolted directly to riser. But this is not a point of concern in my archery.
The most annoying thing about stabilizers for target shooting, is that you might find that when you are close, your rods and or weights are hitting the arrow shafts. It is also very hard to move your bow around when you are having your stabilizers nock into everything you move into......
Get the most high-end stabilizers, look after them, they'll last you a lifetime. No point getting anything at entry or intermediate level, you'll need to sell them when upgrade, which will costing more money and time than just a set of top-end stuff.
Do you have an opinion on the Beiter Centralizer? I've started archery almost a year ago and have been using it for quite a while without extra weight and find it very comfortable. Despite the fact I at first thought a stabilizer was supposed to minimize hand shock until I was told this won't affect the arrow it keeps the bow stable during the drawing process due to the long front rod I use. Thanks to this video I now know the true purpose of this piece of equipment. I will check the center of balance and add some weight if necessary.
Simon Proteau - - - The function of Top Damper is to minimise felt [& heard] vibration [post shot] as much as practicable. The Top Damper is also sometimes called, "Up Stabilizer" and at other times, "Limb Stabilizer / Limb Damper".
What about barebow weights..... I know there are limits to their size in comparison to my riser. It all has to fit within a 120mm Radius circle unstrung... But I'm still waiting for something, anythingsi from you on them....
11:24 I am not convinced by your explanation regarding Extender function / Extender role. It is not that difficult to source & buy a 36" Long Rod on its own:- Moving weight out FAR FORWARD can be taken care of by Long Rod selection alone. I suspect that the true role that the Extender plays, is in modifying the Virtual Fulcrum's location in relation to the true Physical connection point (after fitting a new Extender). Thus better defeating "fast-movement" around axis
Carl Siemens - "Damn straight it does"!!!! Golfers will pay exorbitant premiums for mere fractions of improvement of M.O.I. on their Drivers / Fairway Metals / Hybrids / Irons, which must COMPLY within their rules, but us Archers get to improve M.O.I. by orders of magnitude, for not much extra cost, and easily within our rules
Been shooting for about three months, and thinking about buying my own bow (still using club equipment) - I'm just wondering when I should start using stabilisers - and is it best to start with just a long rod?
Add stabs when you've decided that you're going to shoot the style. There isn't really a time frame when you "should" put them on, and an assertive coach will get you to put them on as soon as you're comfortable holding a bow. Use the full set if you have it.
@@NUSensei Thanks for the quick reply. Getting very comfortable with Olympic recurve, and think that's the way I'm heading (style, NOT Olympics!). As your video says, getting contradictory advice from different people. I'll look at getting a full set, and see how things go. Cheers.
So if the bow is balanced when you are at full drawers, it will throw the balance off as the string gives forward. No? I am sure you know but why if there a preference for balance at the full drawer rather than a balance at the point where the arrow knock leaves the string?
Full draw is the most important part. At full draw, the less the archer needs to counteract the forces on the bow, the more stable they are. If the bow is balanced so that the archer does not need to pull the bow down, it is easier to be consistent. There's no need to balance the bow at the point where the arrow leaves the string, as the aiming is already done.
Thanks for the reply and I get it. Although clarification. When I say as the knock leaves the string, I am referring to while it still has contact and this any movement in any direction would exert pressure on the rear of the arrow and will most certainly effect its trajectory and or stability in flight.
Dear Nu, I was a keen archer some 26 years ago (I am now 53) and I have decided to start shooting again. I always suffered from being a front anchor (now working on it) BUT the major defect I have is the lifting of the bow arm shoulder. This makes me lean back and shortens my draw. Can it becaused because my bow is too heavy? (Bow is a Hoyt TD4 Gold Medallist) Thanks George (Malta)
The bow being too heavy is often the case for being unable to keep the shoulder down, but this often is seen as an issue with draw weight rather than the bow itself.
NUSensei Initially the limbs were 40lbs...now using 30lbs limbs yet the shoulder is still rising. Trying to reduce bow weight and see how it goes. Thanks for replying and keep up the good work on videos..very educational.
In short... NO! you need to talk to your coach about proper stance and technique to correct the shoulder allignment which is more to do with muscle memory and strength than the mass weight of your bow.
roythearcher --- Good Stuff :) . . . also, I am glad you quoted "MASS weight" ---- that clarification is helpful to George Abela (who was not careful nor clear about which was which --- I needed to read George's 'context' to figure which was which)
I put a long rod on my Hoyt Ultra Elite target compound. Every time I thought I flubbed my release, the arrows flew straight anyway! That rig was so accurate, it took all the fun out of shooting. Now I shoot a traditional Korean bow with a thumb release and almost never hit the target. Its way more satisfying and fun
Looking at this situation from a purely logical angle with nearly no archery experience, it looks to me like the main purpose of these weights is to dampen any small movements. The further you get the weights away from the bow, and the stiffer the rods holding them the better they would dampen small movements. Same as a tightrope walker carrying a long balancing rod. An object in motion wants to stay in motion and one that is still wants to stay still, the longer the rod is, the less leverage you have to get it in motion. It would seem to me that the more weight you could add at the end of a long rod the more stable it would be, with diminishing returns on the length once the rod gets long enough to lose its stiffness. Also obviously when things get too heavy for the shooter to comfortably hold. You could even have those side rods angle backwards to counter the weight in the front to keep it balanced with an overly heavy front weight maybe. This is just the ramblings of a guy who enjoys scratching his head on this sort of thing.
Muhammad Hijazi Aidil ----- - - - The function of that Limb Stabilizer on Nu's Bow is to minimise felt [& heard] vibration [post shot] as much as practicable. The Limb Stabilizer is also sometimes called, "Up Stabilizer" & "Top Damper" , and at other times, "Limb Damper".
I disagree that your 1st vid on this topic was left a tad wanting. Your earlier video still has it use, even today (in view of this far more comprehensive "EXTRAS" vid)
If your bow lifts upward while drawing then you need to adjust the tiller to compensate for the unequal grip. Thats what it's for!! This has nothing to do with stabilisation. The balance point, or centre of mass, moving as you describe when drawing is minimal and is easily overcome by the forces being held on the fingers to the point where you won't feel a thing, Nor will it affect the shot as this point returns to its original position when the string is released. Stabilisers help to control pitch and Yaw. side rods help to controll roll or "cant". Putting weight in front of the bow will also help the bow to roll forward on the shot and if the mass of the bow is moved back on the draw what does putting weight on the short rods do if not put weight behind the riser thus counteracting the long-rod weight? The amount of weight depends on personal preference and what you like the feel of in your hand and on the shot and this is reached by experimentation. This makes the point of balance almost irrelevant as those who prefer more weight on the long rod will have a point of balance further in front of those who prefer less and each set-up will have a different point of balance. Therefore there is no 'perfect' set-up other than what works for you... Your theory on what does what is flawed!
roythearcher - - - - - {apart from your one-last-sentence about NU's presented 'theory'} I MUST WHOLE HEARTEDLY AGREE WITH EVERYTHING YOU HAVE SAID. YOU HAVE CONTRIBUTED IN A POSITIVE & EDUCATIONAL WAY. I JUST WISH MORE OF BETTER EDUCATED ARCHERS WOULD ADD COMMENT LIKE YOU HAVE :)
Only if the results stayed the same. The records and score progression show they don't. You end up with the predictable outcome: remove the tools, and you revert to a lower level of accuracy, which is what the barebow division is.
Wouldnt't it be more impressive if they made sprinters run barefoot? Wouldnt't it be more impressive if they made cyclist use standard off the shelf bikes? Wouldnt't it be more impressive if they made _____________________ use ____________________? Short answer no. Why would you not use whatever helps, it is still a supream measure of skill. IF something is invented that can allow an ordinary person to shoot at the same level of an olympic level archer then yes that would be impressive and that should be eliminated
Again, I will have to disagree with NUSensei on the use of stabilisers. The views presented here are nothing new, they are pretty popular and prevalent, but most of it really do not clearly explain themselves very well.
If I'm going to use a bow in real life, it's going to be against prey or (in an RPG application or self defense situation) people. These gadgets would only get in the way.
@@NUSensei that's exactly what their purpose is from the inception of the tool. Sport is a tangential side benefit. The gadgets might be useful some day if someone makes a version that does the same thing but in a smaller/lighter/sleaker package. In the meantime, it's just not for me personally. To each their own.
@@jacobstaten2366 Why would you want one though? If you want stability in a practical context, use a short weight. These long rods are *only* used for precision target shooting. There is no practical reason why you would need this outside of this context.
A stabilzer adds a futuristic look which is considered cool by many while providing superior functionality for a sporting bow. If you don't like it be a b(e)are shooter.
A stabilizer adds stupidity and nothing more. Imagine the Arrow jumping buildings with that big ass stabilizer shit. I wouldn't say he looks futuristic, I'd say he looks like a complete idiot. Only noobs use stabilizers.
arrow doesn't use one for a couple of reasons. mobility, stabilizers would get in the way while hes flipping through the sky. the most important reason is because he's a comic book character shrouded in plot armor who cant miss a shot.... how can you watch this clip and still come out with the opinion "only noobs use stabilizers"?
Nathan Lane I know why he doesn't use them. Other than low mobility, it appears silly to me. What, you can't fire an arrow without stabilizer lol. It's not natural. I hunt with bow from years, I would say nothing but the truth. Stabilizer are silly, our ancestors didn't have them. They also didn't had the compound bow, but the compound bow is one hell of an improvement, which I approve.
Ehhh, I find stabilizers useless in the means of any improvement in your accuracy. They are just an excuse for people to avoid fine tuning their muscles and they lower the level of skill it requires to be a decent archer.
