Disclaimer: My propane fuel setup is not safe. There is no regulator and the rubber hose is not made for propane. Do not replicate or attempt. Honda GC160. Runs on propane.
Disclaimer: My propane fuel setup is not safe. There is no regulator and the rubber hose is not made for propane. Do not replicate or attempt. Honda GC160. Runs on propane.
You're definitely well past this project. I like it though. The only thing that I can imagine is that possibly at higher RPM, the timing of the fuel injector will be too late. Similar to how ignition timing would work (changes depending on RPM and other conditions, usually becoming more advanced) you would want to make the fuel injector inject slightly before the TDC before the intake stroke. Wicked project man :)
i actually put it there because there was nowhere else to quickly and easily do it haha. Its not super efficient because the sensor output will always be lagging since the valve is already opening before it triggers the sensor. Also sorry for delayed response im just seeing this ^_^
Hi, this is a sweet project. Definitely out of the ordinary. I have been looking at holley and the like EFI systems for a Mopar 318 build. I'm pretty green to engine builds. But I thought he why not look into making my own. Then I can make a pretty cool system with any features I want, like an add on HHO system or a dual fuel system... This is a really helpful video. Im Still not convinced I can handle or afford the project with my mopar. This needs more views, the content is amazing.
Saw your looking at mechanical or electrical engineering.. Check into Mechatronics, seriously, that's what I majored in and I loved the diversity of the information. Pays good too and less prone to boring work.
@@randyjack77 I have had other people tell me the same thing. Luckily I have a some time to decide still, and will definitely look into it. I worked an engineering internship last summer and it was so much fun it didnt even feel like work sometimes. I cant wait to be done with school. Thanks!!
facebook.com/Mrmullally Add me on Facebook, I mean.. if you want to. My 318 is in a 71 charger. I was looking at a holley sniper setup. They are about $2000, but I am considering options, and I think I could do better than Holley given time to work on the project.... but its a lot of time.. I also have the parts to convert the car into an all electric car with a lot of horsepower. But again time and money. Then I have a pair of aircraft radial engines i bought that might be a cool hybrid system with one or more of my DC engines.. really I'm in the beginning phase of the project and dont even have a direction yet. That's how i found you, looking into the scope of the DIY EFI option. The care is 100% original, numbers matching, barely any rust at all and the back seat has never ben sat on. So it certainly is worth going all out on. A classic type of performance engine build would be between 5k and 18k "for a hellcat" but theres just nothing special about following the mold.
Excellent project by the way. From a practical standpoint it seems like their is no air/fuel sensor which would normally be placed near the exhaust. That would negate about 90% of what you would want a fuel injection system for
thanks for the feedback! i am aware of this, i am making a new efi setup for a different small engine that will take advantage of those handy features.
Sweet. You probably have moved on to something bigger and better and you know 100% more about this project than I, but I wonder how a rotary encoder would be instead of the potentiometer? You could have an incremental counter and map that to the mix value - that way it may be more precise; you wouldn't need to be using the Arduino's ADC. Although you'd probably need some sort of indicator to show "lean/rich" on a display or something. Maybe even have a button for "lean" and a button for "rich" and increment those values.
Rotary encoder would be awesome, super high resolution. I did this project as an "intro" to actually going all out, and making a fully complete EFI small engine, which i am working on now :)
Thanks! I never had an issue with the proximity sensor even with higher RPMs. I think I used a pull down resistor to eliminate any unwanted noise/false signals.
Hi Stan, My ultimate goal is to use Speeduino on a 4cylinder Tata CNG truck and modify it to run on hydrogen but like you I'm starting with a Honda GX200 and Arduino. I don't want to have wasted spark which is fine for gasoline but bad for hydrogen. So I removed the magneto and installed a coil, I put a little push button sensor on the intake valve and a hall effect sensor on the crank. Then I realised that I could put the hall effect sensor on the valve gear at the point where the intake valve opens , inject propane directly into the cylinder and then a few degrees later when the valve is closed ignite the sparkplug. Does putting the hall effect sensor on the valve gear seem logical to you?
That is going to be fun when its done. I would fully recommend sensing off of the valve/cam gear. I wanted to do that for this one, but it has a plastic gear. It was difficult to drill into and work with as it was a very hard and durable plastic. Also, be careful with the hydrogen as I know it can be dangerous (explosions) if it is setup incorrectly. Report back and let me know how its coming along!
Well done, dude! A couple of thoughts..... How about an O2 sensor in the exhaust stream to act as feedback to the Arduino? Adjust the pulse-width-modulated duty cycle up or down based on an analog read from the O2 sensor. The analog range is 0 to 5 volts. I believe the O2 sensor is between 0 and 1 volt. With 10-bit A/D sampling you'd still have a good 8 bits dynamic range even without instrumentation amplifier. Also, have it sense RPM from the low voltage side of the ignition circuit. Just some thoughts!
Can you use (for twostroke application) the preinstalled pickup coil or the spark wiring for triggering? And if so, can you control the rpm with good behaviour just by mixture to your application;
@@dolins_design thank you very much. The original thougth i had was to use two of the pickups. One for ignition as it is right now and second for injection at some different angle. As long as i can get input from the pickup "sensor" i guess it should at least run idle
@@dolins_design it is a kawasaki kmx 200 engine of 1989 with power valves. I have the bike for a long time and it is just sitting there so i'll try to modify it for fun.
@@dolins_design Haha yes, as you advance with your project don't know if you are going to stick with propane, but if so you might could give these cheap injectors a try. www.ebay.com/itm/LPG-CNG-Gas-3-4Cylinder-Injection-Rail-Injectors-for-Sequential-Injection-System/153694415430?hash=item23c8e6aa46:g:KnkAAOSwjhJdyDmc
Super cool that you are using propane! Normally you would have a pressure regulator between the injector and the tank. There are also systems that use a vacuum controlled vaporizer/pressure reducer. It has a venturi and basically works like an old carburetor. Are you using a lpg/propane injector? Have you heard of speeduino?
Greetings, thanks for the suggestions. I am aware of proper propane injection, this is a gasoline injector. Had to run it in short intervals or it would get unhappy. This setup was put together just to see if I could run an engine with an arduino. Definitely would like play with speeduino moving forward!
@@dolins_design Wow, surprised it even works this well! Propane is so much cheaper than gasoline in my country. Gasoline is now €1.70/L and propane or LPG is €0.70/L! I would like to make an arduino run propane injectors so I can drive cheaply.
Hey there... have you changed anything lately? I'm converting an engine to EFI too, a small one too. All I'm looking is a way to control the shooting timing for the injector. Since mine specific engine (like most small engines), it fires a spark 2 times per 4 strokes because the flywheel passes the magneto twice during 4 strokes, and if I would use something (like a hall effect seonsor) to control the injector shooting time, I would have 2 shots of fuel per 4 strokes. Now, I'm looking for a second input for the info when the injector has to shoot. As you used a proximity sensor - I could use it too, but I don't really want to ruin a cylinder head since they're hard to find for this old engine nowadays. I thought about a MAP or MAF sensor from a 4 cylinder engine, but I'm kinda afraid that those sensors would be too "large" for a single cylinder engine, since both sensors come from a 4 cylinder engine from a car. Do you have any kind of recommendations? I also looked upon control the mixture with a pot, and later do it automatically using different ways of input (ammount of air, throttle position etc.), but for now, all I need is a barely-running engine :) Thanks in advance!
2 sparks per 4 strokes are very common, it's called wasted spark, and it actually help cleaning the plug. 2 injections per 4 strokes is not a problem as the intake is closed half the times, the fuel won't be sucked in and burned. The fuel will then be used when the intake opens again. So with 2 injections you just half the amount of fuel for each pulse. It can actually help the fuel mix better, as it is two smaller portions instead of one huge.
@@andersskjoldager-gregersen3240 Cool, I didnt know two injections per 4 strokes would work. Is that how the auto companies have been doing it with port injection? This was my first dive into fuel injection, I was unaware at the time. When I redo this project I will have to keep that in mind (would make things easier)! Thanks!
@@dolins_design When building efi into the design of the engine from the start i don't think they would opt for anything else than cam sensors and the more precise control of fuel this adds. This enables the manufacturer to design a system that only draws in fuel during the optimum moment for maximum fuel effeciency. I guess it comes down to the specific design of the engine, but for an engine that was designed for running carb i doubt you will notice difference between 1 and 2 squirts. Air/fuel ratio is the important thing to worry about.
@@andersskjoldager-gregersen3240 I will do some research to find out for certain. And I guess only testing can tell for this kind of application. Thanks!!
SickNick'sProjects I finally gave up on the project after all. I realized that without any real math and calculations or some real software besides some basic C, you won’t get any good results out of the engine. Would be very inefficient, would lose power upon giving it some load since you have no feedback on the air that’s being sucked in, therefore, you never know what’s actually happening to the engine, the only thing you know is spray spray spray some fuel, how much?; idk. My point is, I’d recommend taking a closer look onto “speeduino”. An extremly cool yet easy way to re-create an EFI system. It uses a timing wheel, like most (if not all) engines do today, and additional inputs like MAP, O2, TPS and so on. All you need is one of their PCBs, either prebuilt or DIY. Also you need that timing wheel stuck on the shaft somewhere, some type of sensor (VR sensor, opto.. pretty much any sensor that: a) gives a pure 1-0 logic square wave output b) can detect changes on the wheel, or teeth, magnets too) With it, you get a free software for tuning the ECU, tuning the fueling map, setting up the timing wheel, and so on. Also uses an Arduino (hence the name), the Mega actually which you just connect to the pcb with header pins. You upload the code, start the software and you get all the sweet info like RPM, timing, pulse width, MAP pressure, O2 info and so on. Oh yeah, also it’s recommended to use a ignition coil instead a magneto. I found out that’s that the best way to create an EFI system, also a sweet spot between expensive and actually useful. Also it supports up to 8 cylinders per one board. :)
Nice video i want to do the same on a honda gc135 do you have a schematic of the connections of everything and also the code so i have a little inspiration to start thanks !
I can send the code, email me at the email on my channel "about" section i can send the arduino file to you. I dont have a schematic but can draw one up too.
Sure! Injector was driven by a mosfet. Mosfet was triggered by the arduino (same way you would turn on an LED). Proximity sensor acted as the intake valve sensor, and was an input to the arduino, in the same way a push button switch is. Potentiometer changed the pulse time of the injector through some basic math in the arduino.
Would it be possible for you to re-create this project without the engine, so I can test it on the engine I am working on. I can pay you for your time.
@@dolins_design later this year I'll starting a new project hopefully on converting a car for hydrogen, this isn't for HHO gas it's for pure hydrogen. The engine I have runs great on the stuff but isn't very efficient. Hence why fuel injection would be the right direction. You can find my Facebook page 'hydrogen guys' if you want more information and can talk properly. I've done all the research for converting a car so that's the route I'm going. Would just like to get the small engine fuel injected before I move on.
its the one that comes with the arduino kit. a relay is probably too slow for use on a fuel injector, and email at the address on my channel i'll send the code
@@dolins_design already have but we don't need that,we can use the injector oem ecu signal to fire the injectors and adjust the pulse width according to afr!! Facebook contact??
It would actually overheat the proximity sensor and it would not run after that. But at the same time that sensor wasn’t made for high heat applications
Sorry just seeing this comment, it cost about $20, I had a lot of the components already. It might cost around $50 if you did not have everything, not counting the cost of an engine. Might be another $50 for a used engine
I actually never made a wiring diagram (I should have). If you have any specific questions i can help though. If you know how to wiring mosfets and poteniometers its not too difficult. Thanks!
I don't have a schematic, I can try to explain it though. The fuel injector was run with a mosfet. The Arduino triggered the mosfet to activate fuel injector. The potentiometer was used as voltage divider to send different analog voltages to Arduino. I can make a follow up video if you like. You thinking of putting it on a car or something smaller?
@@dolins_designhey what fuel injector is this? is it a cheap universal? and I am wondering about the proximity switch. is that the hall effect sensor in the code? and so this is fully adjustable then? you can adjust exactly when to fire the injector, and when the rpms increase does the intake behave differently so you might have to change the firing of the injector?
@@heyitsdrew Hey, its a denso fuel injector from a 90s dodge truck. You can get them cheap used from a junkyard. Yes, the hall effect sensor in the code is the proximity switch. My original intention was to use a hall effect, and the name stuck in the code. Thanks!
Its not hard if you have basic electronics knowledge and programming experience. I would highly recommend learning c++. Check out ecotrons efi if you want a ready to go product.
Hi, sorry im just seeing your comment (youtube doesnt always alert me) Its a Honda GCV160 vertical shaft engine off of a pressure washer. Also common on lawnmowers.
Sure, send me an email at the one list on my channels about section. Also check out "Dielectric Videos' latest video on his homemade efi. He did a great job and he shared his code too.
Wollah ,,, berry good But Arduino to control only a pulse width of fuel time opening is quite a bit of work to do You can possibly replace an duino with an ordinary circuitry of monostable 555 ic since it is only for adjusting pulse width but I don't recommend when more additional sensing component
Yes true. this project was made on a limited time constraint (semester long for college) and this summer I will be revisiting the project and adding throttle position sensor, MAP, and oxygen sensor.
You got it assembled wrong the fuel injector anyways , I'm a fuel injection mechanic and all injectors have 12v positive and are triggered by a 5 volt ground signal directly from the ecm , you never run more than 5 volts to an injector or you risk catching it on fire not good with fuel inside
