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For the newbies... be careful when you measure the ID of a rod or main cap. You don't usually do it at 6/12 o'clock. When you tighten the fasteners, the bearing shell will go SLIGHTLY egg shaped (oval might be more accurate). On an LS or SBC for example, you'd check at about 11 & 1 (should both be the same).
It makes me feel more like a professional when I use a dial bore gage and micrometers for this job... ...but I've found plastigage honestly works just fine - and agrees nicely with the bore gage
I had bearing issues installing my cam in my ford kent 1600. I went through a couple sets of Vandervell bearings. It ended up being defects in the factory block casting. I ended up getting a custom set of cam bearings to align the cam tunnel to the line honed crank, and then faced the block deck hight to the crank. Kent 1600 suffers from rocker gear wear and limitations. What’s the bet part of that issue is due to the cam tunnel being out of alignment. I also should mention that the cam slipped in so smoothly and actually spun beautifully is an understatement. Oh and tapping it with a mallet, you couldn’t feel any movement… 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀
Bit of a frustrating journey there! No doubt cost you a bit of time and money but bet you were stoked when you found the cause in the end. Cheers for sharing - Taz
Factory bearings don’t spin because they are installed once. Measure surface that rides on bearing, if it is in spec, use stock size bearings. If out of spec then order for that to compensate. If you are using highest strength ARP bolts then have a machine shop do the work because the components will need to be honed to match round after torque applied to bolts, of course winging it can usually work but then opt for larger clearance and then use thicker oil. If some are loose and some are tight= trouble.
haha cheers for the thought! We don't run heaps of adverts (you know that midroll unskippable crap we all hate), so RU-vid isn't really much a revenue stream for HPA vs what it costs us time wise, BUT, the little it does generate goes into the staff project car budget which is pretty rad so thanks for that 😎 The main goal is to just always try have helpful content at the end of the day so that you find it useful is our goal ticked - Taz.
I wouldn't pull the bottom end apart to ONLY replace bearings. Perhaps consider sending out an oil sample for analysis and see if there is a large amount of bearing metal in the oil. If so - you should probably rebuild it. If not - let it eat.