I’ve noticed a trend… every person reviewing these vevor anvils cheat and “use their press” for the ricasso… Why? Sorry for you being the one that is landed with the question… I don’t understand, is it that hard to form or shape the ricasso?… if so that’s cool man it’s just something I’ve noticed is all
@@isitover9010 Well first of all I'm not the best with the hammer and I've found that it's easy to just use the press. To do it appropriately on the anvil I think I'd benefit from a block in the hardie hole. It adds a slight layer of precision that is better than I can do with the hammer to do it in the press. I have a to learn with forging! Maybe I'll change my ways in the future
@@RedBeardOpsThank You Very Much! I appreciate and respect your honesty, I’ve only bought that anvil and the single burner vevor forge so I know nothing only fan boy little things, hence why I’m asking because I honestly have no idea why or if that part was hard so I was like”crap how hard is this part?, am I going to be able to do it with out a press” hahaha so thank you!
awesome! I've been using this anvil for a year or so now and been pretty happy with it - although I never had a better quality anvil to compare it to. It's served me fine for what I do as a hobbyist bladesmith, and the price was right! 🙂
I use four of the 110 lbs Vevor -like anvils for my knife making workshops. They have seen about 400 beginner forgers since 2017, when I first bought them. and they are still going strong. I highly recommend these anvils provided that you do your rebound test and visual inspection of the Hardy and Pritchel holes before you take them home (sometimes these holes don't go all the way through). My only complaint is the position of the pritchel hole on the round horn (pretty useless). I would have preferred to see it located on the face where it would better support punch and drift work.
Thanks for the comment John; that's really interesting to hear! I agree on the pritchel hole... not ideal. Guess they wanted you to be able to get to the mounting holes... but odd for sure.
Very competent testing job! I'd suggest cleaning up the holes with silicon carbide wrapped over a piece of bar stock and rod stock. An angle grinder is so fast you're liable to overdo it before you know it.
Thank you for your thoughts on this anvil! I am getting into forging and trying to determine what anvil to get first as I progress. I know how much work goes into the videos and I appreciate it! 🤘
Great video as always man. I loved my upgrade with this anvil. Like you said for someone who upgraded from a family airloom to this was awesome. One day looking at a 200lbs+ but those are over 2k in $ so this hits the matk
Nice build on the stand. You ought to pouring the legs full of lead on your next one. I did that on the stand for my peddinghaus and it's pretty great.
@@RedBeardOps yeah I should have weighed it. It's nice to not have to deal with the sand and oil. Not sure how much lead it actually took. Maybe about 65-70 pounds. I got tired of moving it around pretty quick
@@RedBeardOps I'd avoid lead for that. Consider this - the objective is to create a stable support for the anvil, not an immovable object. Before welding in the mount plate pack legs with a bunch of rebar and pack/shake sand around it. That should give you the weight increase without exposure to lead. I just used a cherry stump banded with .25x2 steel strap. It takes serious effort to make it move.
Definitely overthought the welding of the legs Let’s say two of the legs sat flush and the third had even as large as an 1/8” gap (you fill it while welding,that’s it 😊) Aside from that buddy I appreciate all the reviews and this is one I want also
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this anvil. I hope to buy one my self to be a small upgrade to my home made 123ibs japanese block anvil. I will likely weld a block of steel into the arch do to the same concern you mentioned Godbless and be safe.
I'm going to get one of these but with my available time I only have time to do stock removal. I really don't want to do stock removal I really enjoy forging the most 👍 nice stand for sure
Meshed some important info about anvils with a thorough and honest review, while also mentioning that vevor both heavily pushes products on youtube and sent you this one. Lovely review, and really appreciate the thoroughness and integrity!
My grandpa gave me a 64kg Brooks anvil thats in pretty nice condition. The horn has some dents but the face and body are near perfect. Really sucks though I cant forge much anymore cause of an arm injury.
This was a mistake by VEVOR in the product description. Someone asked this question on the product page and VEVOR responded that it's cast steel. They list the black 132 pounder at a 55 HRC and the blue 132 pounder at a 50 HRC.
I've been trying to get them to send me one of their 2x72s but yeah they send me stuff like laser engravers and 3D printers asking me to review them haha
@@RedBeardOpsthey tempted me a little when they offered me a mag drill. No idea what I'd use it for but I kind of wanted it haha. I actually personally really like their double horn design. Similar to European pig anvils.
@@OldHickoryForge I've had a Vevor 2x82 grinder for almost a year and a half now and it works fine. You have to cut off a couple inches on the tooling arm to fit 2x72 belts. Not the greatest quality, but it works until I can upgrade. I traded it for a rifle so I don't know the cost or what would be included but I have two small wheels and a 12" contact wheel, as well as the flat platen. If you have any questions about that grinder, maybe I can help
On VEVOR's site the material is listed as "drop-forged high-grade steel"... with the hardness results, I'm pretty sure that it is steel and not cast iron on the face. I think putting cast iron in the title was a mistake.
You did the hardness test on the point which is easy to harden, you have to test the center of the anvil. And it's already dented from bouncing a ball barring on it. Tis is a soft anvil. Who wants that?
Well now you got another anvil, and you forged a knife on it.Oh you still got 99 hooks to go. LOL be looking for your new knife build video. Stay safe James.
for the leg sand problem, drill and tap the feet with a hole that can take a pipe plug. weld the feet on, fill with sand through the hole, then screw in a pipe plug with a dab of loctite to keep it from vibrating out.
My question is 'why do you only drop the ball 9 inches for a 10 inch drop test?' You start at 1 inch down and drop it just 9 inches. Does dropping it from a lower level affect the rebound % as it is a different energy profile? Just curious.
Very well done as usual, Doctor Keaton. I had considered those cheap cast steel anvils several years ago, but I ended up just getting an NC Tool one instead. It was several times the price, but still under $500 (back then, but not now, lol), and I don't regret the choice. I could use more than my 4" face width, but it has a side shelf that compensates for that most of the time. I'll tell ya what that anvil could really use is... some checkering.
@@RedBeardOps Oh, they're absolutely worth the price and then some. Much better value for the low budget smith than anything else on the market or a railroad track ASO.
I have the 22lb anvil from vevor and I have to say it is great I've been considering getting one of those large anvils and I believe that you have answered all of my concerns about them thanks for the info