Are Cheap Guitar Parts Any Good? 

GUYKER PARTS: I purchased a number of cheaper parts, from China as a tech and builder, for exactly the same reasons stated in this video. The only company I have not been disappointed with is Guyker. What to expect if you choose to purchase from them. You will receive a perfectly functional part with no issues, it's going to be on par if not slightly better, with most mid-range guitars on the market (ex: Ibanez/ Fender Mexico, Yamaha, Epiphone/ prices anywhere from 600$ to 1200$). Hope this helps.

Good pointers. One of the things I do, is when looking at reviews, even if there's only two bad, and many many good ones, read what the bad ones say, as you may find that the kind of issue people are having with the product could be a deal breaker for you, but sometimes people leave bad reviews because it took too long to deliver, or it was the wrong product received, which technically has nothing to do with the quality of the product itself.

I've worked with Guyker parts. They are good for what they are, and I think they produce OEM parts for epiphones and Ibanezes. Still I've started gravitating towards high end parts, because they feel better.

I replaced a Strat style 6 screw trem bridge in an Indio with a Guyker one that had a push in arm. It cost $18 from Amazon, and I couldn't be happier. I also found MusicLily to be another quality import parts maker that also is available on Amazon (which I do use and appreciate for their no-hassle return policy).

Thank you for this - very helpful. I got spooked by a lot of these "too good to be true" cheap parts deals and just ordered stuff from the usual channels.

Thank you for the informative video Highline Guitars.

the Wilkinson that are made in Korea are good for the price. Not all of the Trev Wilkinson designed parts are made in Korea, so you have to check, but the Korean made Wilkinson trems like the wvs 50 II K are good.

Personally I've always found aliexpress sufficient for parts. Even the "red flag" ones, I usually just take the gamble for early prototypes and they are generally sufficient for the task. I even order some of the more "quirky" parts occasionally just because they're inexpensive so I could try them out or so I can tear into to reverse engineer them. I just received a "humbucker" made out of 2 stacked hotrail-style pickups for bobbins (i.e. it has 4 coils in total) that I'm dying to experiment with once I set up the workshop again

This was a really great topic for a video! 👍 👍 Very important info for people that's almost never discussed! Like you said, sometimes you aren't sure about how the guitar will turn out (which is true for everyone starting out) and it's hard to justify buying expensive parts. And in the end, many of these products are fairly simple in design and *can* be just as good if you are a bit lucky.

Thanks Chris. I'll check out Guyker, and thanks for the tip in finding companies this way.

I've found that a lot of pickup manufacturers will have the pickups featured on RU-vid videos. Either solo or shootout videos. A total help in making a decision.

The roller bridge uses springs because it lacks the small C shaped lock for the adjustment screw. I bought a very similar bridge for a build once. I had to disassemble the bridge to trim 4 of the springs shorter in order to intonate the strings, you can only crush a spring so much. Many sharp metal casting needed filed down. So after all this reworking of the cheap bridge, I decided it’s not really worth it unless you have no alternative for your build. Great video sir! I appreciate the vast amount of info you condensed into this spot on video.

Good tips thanks for the info, I do usually do my homework when buying anything from ebay or whatever but I never realized about the manufacturer may have a store or to look for that, thanks

I have learned a lot from this channel, thank you very much for sharing your huge knowledge ; )

Great video, sir.

This is basically GFS type stuff without the markup. Not bad for a very budget build, but not something you're putting on a $1500 guitar!

Lots of good points, Chris. There are two other points people might keep in mind. First of all, if there's something in the item description that's not entirely clear, I've had good luck with simply sending a short note (this is on Ebay) to the seller. The seller's who are sourcing or stocking parts of a particular type are generally pretty good about following up such queries, and a sidebar to that is that their reply often gives some indication of their knowledge of English. On the other hand, the ones who don't bother to answer, or who send a snotty or unpleasant reply, or just "huh?" I'll avoid like the plague. This doesn't always work - there are a couple of quite large warehouse operations who sell guitar parts (supposedly) under their own brand, but they are actually a clearing house for "factory seconds" and what staff they have don't know diddly about the items for sale (and can't be bothered to find out). Sometimes, as small 1st order will go OK, but a larger follow-on order turns into a real mess. FWIW, EBay are pretty good about adjudicating any disputes, but I'd rather not have disputes. The second "black flag" is several "nonsense-name" sellers, whose names are very similar, or perhaps differ only by adding a digit to the name. I don't know why, but my luck with these has been 100% bad. Fortunately, I've not fallen into that particular hole too often. The third thing I do look at, besides the number of sales and the reviews of a part is checking how long that seller has been doing business under that name. I keep records, with pictures, of all items bought on EBay, and so in some cases I have records of earlier transactions that went well, and where the merchandise was OK for the job. Other than that, and the points you mentioned, there's the ancient warning, "Buyer Beware." Perhaps I've learned a bit about what to look for in a vendor, but I've also found that sellers who are focused on guitar parts, and who are interested in having your business will take the trouble to respond to a query. I've noticed lately that several of the established EBay vendors are using a fixed-rprice shipping method which seems to be something new for them. The really good part is that the turnaround time has been as short as 14 days, and if I've bought from the seller before, I've been receiving a note from the seller with the ship date. estimated delivery date, and a non-bogus tracking number. All of these sellers have been on EBay for at least 3 years, and in many cases they are the product maker or source. Their sales numbers and reviews reflect this. Thanks for putting all of this information out there.

I recently completed a short (30”) scale bass. Most after market bridges are for longer scales and the string spacing is too wide for a shorter scale. And, I did not want to use single-string bridges. I found a Guyker bass bridge with adjustable string spacing on ebay. I was/am pleased and impressed with the quality of the bridge. Of course getting it off ebay, it was considerably more expensive than buying it off AliExpress...but I got it in a week. Cheers and thanks for a great video.

the main trouble with parts like these is that they're in large manufactured with very soft pot metal alloys. Recycled aluminum drinking cans, etc end up in parts like this. Great bang for your buck, but you certainly get what you pay for.

Great topic, I am sure many others besides me are very interested. Good, in depth discussion.

Want to tell Why do they use springs on cheap tuneomatic from the first example, as I have disassembled both cheap and decent ones. In tunomatic intonation tuning bolt often have recess on the end by which it is held in place by metal plate or spring. This requires use of bolts which are not readily available. In cheaper version they use regular bolts as one can by in hardware store thus there is a spring to hold it in place. You can take regular tuneomatic and this photo and look closely at differences, it will become pretty obvious.

Huge thanks for making this video!! I'm restoring my grandfather's les paul but don't have much money and have no any clue where to buy the parts The guitar is like 70 years old and didn't been touched like 32 years (the case is never been opened since he passed in 1992) I'll try my best to make it reborn!

Always had a good experience with guyker stuff and theirs store.

I remember when Guyker brand parts first showing up on Amazon. I needed a 3x3 set of tuning machines for a guitar I was giving to a young kid trying to form a punk rock band. They had a set of 21:1 ratio tuners that I bought because of the good reviews. The finish on these machines was impeccable. Absolutely beautiful. The gears also very smooth with very little lash. But the locking mechanism was terribly machined on all six. From kind of usable to being so hard to turn the locking button, that you needed a pair of pliers to turn it. On one, the locking pin was machined so badly that the pin was trying to come through the string hole. The hole for the pin must have been drilled on an angle inside of the string post. I notified them of this problem and they sent me another set with the same problems only a little more usable. So I took the best of the two sets to make one set and sent back the worst ones. With some light machine oil and continuous turning of the locking mechanism, they loosened up a little bit. But no where near the quality of Fender locking tuners. If you have ever used The Fenders you know what I mean. This only was a problem with the locking mechanism on the Guykers. I guess if I ordered non locking tuners, from them, they would have been fine. That was three years ago? Hopefully they have had their manufacturing or manufacturers correct these problems by now. Guyker could be a very competitive product if they get their quality control problems squared away.

Golden Gate makes some 3x3 tuners with that have white buttons, and very lightweight, and are close to waverly tuners quality for less than 20 dollars, I’ve bought several and they are incredibly awesome!

The guyker roller bridge is great, I put one on my explorer to compliment the short maestro vibrola. Made well and does what it should,

I just discovered your channel and I've been binge watching all day. Happy 4th of July. You are like an echo chamber of common sense. SUBSCRIBED.

My one thing to watch out for is number of orders. You might proceed with caution if a store/item doesn’t have a lot of orders. You may have said this, but I was cooking and everyone was talking to me, so I might have

One thing to consider with the cheaper chinese stuff is the gold color is always a little off, even the chrome can be a bit weird looking. Same goes for humbucker parts like slugs, screws, etc... The gold color is between gold and brass in color.

Thank you so much for this video! I learned an awful lot from your experiences and advice. Lots to beware of that I never considered before. Here are a few of my thoughts. The tuneomatics with springs have them to keep the saddles from moving around. There are no little locking clips or wire bails on these style bridges. My "lawsuit era" Halifax Custom has these springs, as does my Ibanez Deluxe 59er Model from the same time. My guitars intonate well, so I have not had to cut the springs. Concerning Gotoh products, I am definitely not a fan. Back in the early 1990s, when I started building for real, I used to buy Gotoh bridges and tuners in bulk from Stew-Mac. In lots of six, chrome bridges used to cost me about $15 US apiece, and tuners were about $22 a set. Back then, Gotoh was considered low-priced hardware. I found it, in general, to be no better than stuff I parted out of cheap swap-meet guitars. True story: I picked up a Douglas bolt-on LP copy in a pawn shop for $80. It had the craziest metal-flake gold top, like some of that 1960s Italian import stuff, and I just had to take it home. When I restrung it and set it up, I replaced the factory bridge with an old Gotoh that I had left over from like 28 years ago. I hated the way it sounded, and I rushed to put the old bridge back on! I have noticed this before--Gotoh bridges sound thin and weak to me. I don't have a very high opinion of their sealed tuners, either. I have had several of the round back plates fall right out of them. Surprise--my sealed tuners are no longer sealed! Some lower-priced brands that I do like are Fleor, GFS, Guyker and Musiclily. I avoid eBay and Reverb like the plague because I don't trust private sellers. One highly-touted brand I do not like is Tone Pros. I have three guitars with their locking bridges, and I don't like the tone at all. I've removed the locking hex screws, saving them for posterity. (I think the claim that your bridge will not fall off when changing strings is laughable. Anybody that would allow this to happen should be more careful.). Finally, thanks again for sharing your considerable knowledge on this subject.

I guess it also depends on what i would build ( only for me and friends.. We all arent some high class players..) for playing at home i guess going cheaper is fairly enough.. Playing on stages i would prefer higher class parts.. You are on a pro level and its worth buying expensive/higher class parts..

I find that if you ask questions of the seller, the more detailed and helpful they are, often the better the results are. You can also can tell if they understand the product, I.e. music store style Ali Express will talk to the use case, rather than vague comments about the product. I haven’t had a 100% hit rate, but I have certainly had some good results and overall, for testing things, I have found it is a good experience in the whole.

i been building stranger relations to 'normal' stringed insts. like hollow bodied slide guitars using mixing bowls or a pie pan or try a banjo with a salad bowl and skin head. i like a magnetic and piezo choices, blend knob- but individual volume and tone pots for sources in parallel give best control. the steel rail sound out of these bodies proved a hope ... been getting parts mostly from CB Gitty(amazon), Amazon, StewMac. cheap does not mean bad. thanks for your

Guyker gets a solid thumbs up. I customized a squire p and a jazz with Guyker bridges and tuners. It was a huge difference without sacrificing quality

Wonderful video. Thanks. I am finding more and more often some sellers on Amazon and e-bay, are acting as a go between for ali-express. They will take your name & shipping address, then order the part from Ali-express for you. Of course, they are making a few $$ from a higher purchase amount from you. I got caught first hand at this situation, only to find the exact same item later on, from ali-express. Only less expensive at ali. I so agree with you, one should really do your homework and check out everything before parting with our money.

bought two cheap Tune-O-Matic bridges, both of them were a bit wobbly in the saddles, but combining the two I got one perfectly fit and one well fit bridge 😆was very pleased

Good advice. I find, anything with 1 picture or very little info is usually poor quality. I tend to ignore most 1 star reviews. A lot of those people are serial complainers that are never happy with anything.

If you need hardtail bridges (T style or Tune o Matic) You can go cheap.. tremolo and tuners not so much (maybe Locking ones) I've got Guyker Locking tuners on my LP, and they're great. And also electronics you can go cheap, but only If you get larger size pots, and different type of switches.

I totally agree on electronics, tuning keys, pick ups etc. A stop tailpiece from 19,00€ to 100,00€ for exactly the same. I have a rollerbridge from a white label for 19,00€ and it works fine. However the tuning keys are from schaller. A lot more expensive but the stay oin tune and are really very acurate when tuning my guitar.

I currently have a set of chinese pickups in my parts strat that sound identical to Fender Custom Shops. I paid $250 for the CS, and $40 for the knock-offs.

Guyker are the kings of budget hardware. There locking tuners are my goto upgrade for most guitars

I've got the same roller bridge except I got it before they started making the locking posts. It's pretty good.

I've built quite a few of the 'Chinese' kits. Early on I started replacing the pickups with higher quality ones. Same for the pots, wires, and strings. Then I started upgrading bridges and even tuning pegs and suddenly I'm thinking, maybe I should build the body and the neck too? (I'm just a hobbyist, I don't sell stuff, I give it to friends. So the longer it takes, the happier I am).

I would also check the specs for what kind of metal and the quality/composition of the alloy used in the parts.

I’ve used guyker parts on some of my guitar builds and they are pretty solid for the price of them, I haven’t had any issues with them. Just what you’re buying and the type of playing you expect from your build.

I’m in the UK and I’ve used some of the cheap chinese parts. Some good some not so good. I now tend to stick with Wilkinson or Vanson, not the cheapest but by no means not expensive

Thank you for your amazing channel, guitar family is one of the top quality and excellent c services, plus they are the main supplier and they have factory called guitar family in Korea where their products mostly produced their. Give them a try they have been amazing over the years I have used them and they always communicate and give their best advice. Regards from ENGLAND UK

I have had very good experiences with Wilkinson parts. Stewmac even offers a kit with their components. I bought the cheapest telecaster clone on Amazon and replaced the bridge and the pickups with Wilkinson parts for less than $35 and have been pretty happy.

Ali stores appear and disappear with the wind. Some stores change their name is they get too many bad ratings. The most important thing to look at is how long the store has been open.

I thoroughly enjoyed this video, as I have bought a lot of cheap guitar parts myself, for various projects. My verdict is that if you want to play, you have to pay. There's a lot of DECENT cheap stuff, yes, but I have yet to find cheap stuff that is equally as good as the name brand stuff. is their passable cheap stuff? Yes. Will it get the job done? Absolutely. My personal go-to for cheap stuff is TNT Guitars. most of their parts are really good, especially for the money. as for more expensive stuff, I swear by Gotoh.

I like to buy the licensed floyd rose bridge that nobody wants, especially ones that came from Jackson guitars. I found that they work well enough if you don’t absolutely abuse them like you would a 1000 or FRO, and they’re only 1/6th of a floyd rose original’s price

I usually look for the information contained in the offer. I'm not too familiar with Ali, I shop mostly in the bay, but I look for - amount of information provided - readability of the information provided (does it look like a copy and paste google translate text?) - are there dimension drawings attached and do they match the photos - image quality of the provided photos Now, there are parts and then there are parts... I've had stuff turn out all over the place, and I return to sellers where the quality was acceptable and better (the bay has a function for that which is very nice). Last thing I look for is where the stuff is being shipped from. I mostly avoid direct shipping from China (import tax and customs reform in the EU...) anyway, but if I have the option to have it shipped from Germany ideally, or somewhere close in the EU, I'll prefer that over direct from China. In my experience the quality of stuff that is shipped by fulfillment contractors close to where I am is way better compared to stuff coming directly from China.

Excellent advice. Know how I know it's excellent? Because it is exactly what I've been saying! Following these rules has led me to have a pretty positive experience getting budget parts from ebay and aliexpress. Not perfect, but pretty good. I don't build guitars, but I have made a hobby of buying basket cases, fixing them up without putting a lot of money into them and donating the result to somebody who needs (well, want's badly, we don't really need guitars) it.

I always look at the reviews and see how many sales they have made. A couple of minutes having a quick scan and you can quickly get an idea of if you think you can trust them or not - worth the investment in my opinion. As you say Chris, fro a prototype or a newbie trying something out, you won;'t end up out of pocket too much. And you can always upgrade later when the $ or skill level matches the extra cost. And maybe in some cases, the cheap part could work fine and last for years.

I wish I saw this on my first build but I learned by my third build

I can't speak for their guitar parts,but I bought a Guyker fretwire bender and it is well made and works just fine.I saw a review on it on Know Your Gear,so I felt safe spending $50 and saving $100

These brands which have bridges ( or other metal components obviously ) which seem to have all the characteristics of an upper scaled brand still aren’t going to be made of good materials. It’s simply a mathematical certainty. These bridges you can acquire for 5-10-15 dollars are certainly going to be made of a cheap pot metal which will pit and chip very quickly. I’ve been an automotive mechanic for roughly 40 years now and the same things apply to those aftermarket components as well. If you’re building a guitar you plan to try and sell for 100 dollars I see why you’d be looking into this however any higher end builder wouldn’t give these components even a second thought imo.

Cool thanks

Those springs in that Tunomatic bridge suggests to me that the tolerances are not good so the saddles move around. The springs are maybe an attempt to stop that. If these bridges are made right they shouldn't move much. Some cheap ones do like ones on Epiphone guitars for example, or at least the older ones. You can also get nasty rattles.

I can vouch for Guyker, from tuners to fretwire benders :D

I mainly build basses. Years back (80s and 90s) I only used Schaller, Gotoh and Leo Quan badass bridges then later some Hipshot drop D tuners. Lately I've tried Hanchang, Ping, Jin Ho, Wilkinson and Sung Ill with good results. I look at the fact many of the large name brand companies use Hanchang and Sung Ill hardware. I am not to big on schaller these days as I have had a couple tuners with playing issues. I also like buying broke guitars just to salvage the parts as long as the parts are quality.

These same flags and prerequisites you mentioned also work on Amazon if you are in North America. I find these same type and quality parts the same way there. I have prime and usually the cost is maybe 2-5 dollars more but they are in stock in a warehouse and are at my door in 3 to 7 days. That for me is worth the added cost rather then waiting 3 to 6 months or more for the Row Boat from China to come, sit in port for days or weeks before they can even unload then be shipped to final destination. Certain things you buy get destroyed sitting in a container in the hot sun on a dock and arrives totally useless. I think I have gotten MAYBE 3 items out of a dozen or so I had shipped on the row boat that were not damaged or totally destroyed in the shipping. THEN the real fun begins getting a replacement or refund. For me its just not worth it.

Good parts sound better, normally. It really depends on whether you building a beater guitar or an instrument. I don't bother with cheap crap myself, I want the few guitars I have to be as good as they possibly can.

At one time I would have said yes you can buy cheap guitar parts, and they are fine. But there is a problem I found that crops up if you go too cheap. The parts will work for a while, and then slowly just start acting strange. I bought a gold roller bridge for one of my guitars, and it worked great for about 3 months. Then all of a sudden I started having intonation problems, and it wouldn't adjust very easy. So I'm going to replace the bridge. I may just go back to a regular tunomatic bridge that it came with. I'm not sure yet, but I will spend a little more. You don't have to break the bank. There are plenty of cheaper parts. The only challenge is knowing how cheap you can go for each part before it becomes a liability.

I've built some guitars with Guyker parts and found the original Korean made product to be of excellent quality.

It's like a gamble. It's so cheap for a good quality control, but there can be a chance you get a really good one that exceeds the quality control.

most peoaple leave 5 stars , if the product arrive , or arrive on time and comon you know you pay 5 buck for a bridge what do you expect , , if you want you can also go to gipson and buy a bridge for 100 , well most of thows 5 buck bridges end up on guitar over 1000 , gutar that cost 200 will have a 50 cence bridge ,

when learning the hobby a bridge that causes buzzes can be quite confusing.

Guyker parts are not bad, but Donlis is the king of high quality inexpensive parts. Their pickups are especially good. Some say they rival premium brand pickups.

Hello there! Good video, I'm currently at the beginning of my guitar building journey, so I'm using spare parts that I have around here, but I will definij tely be upgrading in future, or of course, my customers can also do with the guitars what they wish. Anyway, about the language thing. I was in Beijing in 2016, and that language/translation thing is RAMPANT. I don't think it's an indication of the fact that they "don't care", I just think it's SO systemic, that it's something that they assume they are doing properly. Seriously. I had a tour guide, and I showed him some of the HILARIOUS menu descriptions I had found from a restaurant my wife and I had gone too - and he laughed very hard at it. I asked him why, and he just said he doesn't know and that everybody does it. It's actually pretty common on instructions/manuals of Chinese products too. So I wouldn't really use that as an indication of product quality. I just honestly think that they're clueless. Oh and one last thing. I have sometimes taken it a step further and contacted people that have left reviews to get more detailed information! I have found that mostly people are VERY helpful!

I’ve found that Ali express automatically combine shipping if I buy from multiple sellers in the same order. Every time there has been an issue with a part missing. The postage system in these cases simply states that the order was delivered. Big problem. Always use PayPal because the Ali express help centre is certainly not helpful. PayPal have refunded on both occasions.

I like the high quality guitar parts, for my guitar. I don’t build to sell, but if I did I would use the best parts I could find, for the cheapest price.

Gotoh is not dirt cheap, but the basic 381 tuners and vintage Strat tremolo are top notch and low priced. I have bought all manner of cheaper tuners and it just isn’t worth it. It is also a pleasure to work with quality stuff, which matters.

Interesting topic...I find myself wondering more often if high priced name brand components are truly worth their high cost? I own several guitars that are from the 60's when I first bought them, and I have found several name brand tuners that no longer function as well as they did when new...yet I have cheaper guitars that are still functioning like the day I purchased them. There is nothing to me that says a higher price means better quality, nor that a lower price means poorer quality...it's more buyer beware based upon personal experience. Most reviewers worry me with their subjective reviews that seem to be based more on who supports them than upon any true evidence of better quality. :)

my tip would be to join guitar building forums in your country, there is always this discussion happening there

Good advice, but the discussion about the springs in the “tune-o-matic” style roller bridge is a bit misleading. Don’t want the springs? Just remove them! You might need to remove the screws anyway if you run out of saddle movement and have to reverse the saddle block. I often find I need to have the treble blocks reversed to the bass side when using heavier strings to get the intonation correct. It only takes 15 seconds to change the saddle orientation.

I think it all depends on the complexity of the part, and how important it is to have the best materials. I have some 21:1 Guyker non-locking tuners which are amazing, but I wouldn't trust cheap locking tuners. Or a cheap Floyd Rose imitation for example.

ive reciently purchased many cheap pickups which were very good, ive even purchased cheaper tuners which are very good. some cheaper parts are now very good. not al i must add

The next vlog good be about if they are any good compared expensive ones? Thnx.

If you are buying musiclily stay away from the gold finish, it's different in every piece you buy

Why would anybody building a guitar buy parts from Aliexpress? I recently built an explorer from precision guitar kits and I wanted it to be the best it could be so I went with Gotoh for bridge and tailpiece, Grover for tuners (only because the klusons wouldn't work with the hole spacing) pots from vintage inspired pickups, an Emerson paper in oil capacitor and Brandon Wound P.A.F. copy pickups. The guitar is fabulous, plays and sounds better than my genuine Gibson Les Paul.

9:42 Those springs are there to avoid the buzzing of the saddles.

I will only buy branded products for my guitars, I was scammed by a cheap floyd rose vibrato. Absolutely not worth buying cheap components!

The only real problem I’ve run into with cheaper guitar parts is with locking nuts for Floyd Rose equipped guitars. Never go cheap with these folks. Always buy the highest quality locking nut you can, unless you like replacing them on a regular basis.

For bridges and tuners I went with known brands, high quality, for pickups, i went with cheap ones, ill make sure my guitars “work” and then Ill buy higher end pickups if these sound bad

Tuning keys is about the part i have getting good ones. My last build one key had almost full turn to move anythinh6

I wonder why no one has made a bridge with a small amount of lateral adjustment to provide for minor string alignment.

I bought a set of $25 Kluson 18:1 tuners from Thomann.

Actually they are great. Only reason to go south can be quality control and that's it. Pick up, tail pieces, tuners whatever is used they are all fine, and this can be easily check with a few blind tests. Too bad Floyd rose copies are most of the times bad, would even buy them if they were good.

I decided to restore my very first guitar a few years ago. It's over 30 years old and I wore the frets flat, had banged it up pretty badly and pretty much wore everything out. I replaced a lot of the hardware with cheap no name stuff because it's not a valuable guitar, except for sentimental reasons. I used a similar methodology to source some parts for it. I also look at the 5 and 1 star reviews. I did get tuners that weren't rated with a high number of stars. But I also looked at the reviews. Reviews that complained about the shipper mean nothing. Also, one word reviews are typically worthless. I think competitors will leave one star single word reviews and I also discount one word 5 star reviews too. The tuners I got were rated just below 4 stars, but they would fit the odd dimensions I needed. All of the one star reviews were about the shipper, one word, or positive but I can only assume mistakenly 1 star. There were no 2 or 3 star reviews and several positive well worded 4 and 5 star reviews. They ended up being much better than the original tuners, held tune, and fit the odd headstock.

I have found that buying a discounted guitar and stripping off the parts is more cost effective than buying individual parts and paying shipping.

Add quotes like "guitar bridge" better results

I was surprised that you scrolled past one really important aspect of the listing without mentioning it - the mechanical drawing! I wouldn't buy any unknown part that doesn't provide basic dimensions like string spacing, mounting holes etc.

cheap parts with shipping cost (and time) as much as Fender/Gibson which you can source at your local store. Is it really worth it?

Guyker is the high quality low price way to go

I don't see any point in trying to cheap out when Gotoh's are this good for this cheap.

COUNTRY-BRAND: in general THERE is a level of quality backing productos: I WILL recommend MADE IN TAIWAN INSTEAD CHINA X SOME PARTS

99% of ALL guitar parts are made offshore no matter what the box says.

Ali has 12 day delievery now. They send better stuff than Wish, i know Im getting cheaper made stuff but gonna byild me a few guitars for fun just to make a few players around here off for fun

I suggest you make a rough draft of your narration for videos like this to help prompt you through it more quickly. The slow paced, halting humming and harring can be very off-putting to those of us with lives to get on with.