What else do yall think I can use this thing for?!? Here is my affiliate link to the laser => www.xtool.com/products/portable-diode-laserbox-d1-for-laser-engraving-laser-cutting-b?ref=RedBeardOps& Also... I made these feet to brace the unit to my work bench. Here are the SVG files for sale on Etsy --> www.etsy.com/RedBeardMakes/listing/1303570439/xtool-feet-brace-downloadable-svg-file?Copy&ListingManager&Share&.lmsm&share_time=1662929661868 Amazon Link To Laser - amzn.to/3qsZbCG
@georgescott8667 If you need boxes, let me know. I am a production supervisor for one of the major packaging companies in the U.S. I'm not trying to sell anything! I just know how time-consuming and aggravating this project can be. Again, I am not trying to sell anything. Just help out if I can.
Thanks for the video, nice to see some workshop / alternate uses for the tool. I'll be interested to see how you go with the makers mark on leather; stamp method versus laser cut.. I can't see the laser cut being as durable as the stamp method.
I just hit the subscribe button after this video! Well I’m 99% sold for my hobby knife making, but did you happen to try any stainless steels like CPM154 to test etch makers mark.
I did not; I'll say if you plan on etching steel, check out their infrared version. Seems better suited. www.xtool.com/products/xtool-1064nm-infrared-laser-module?ref=RedBeardOps&
Great review. It's super nice to see your research into how you actually would use it. Although I hate the background music. It's a nice song for two minutes. At close to 27 minutes my brain is fried. Please change song once in a while. After this I need to clean my synapses with some techno.
I had two thoughts, one being making the holes for the thread and or rivets in the leather. (Don't know if that's what was said.) Second, you could maybe put down tape, use the laser to do an etch in the knife and then also with an electric etch to give it a little more depth. Also could use to just cut out the mark for the electric etch in tape. Could ez do the buyers name too, maybe free or a small added fee.
Heck yea Andy! Glad it helped! Hope you like yours. I've been using mine a bunch as you may be able to tell... If you're ordering again in the future that affiliate link helps the channel. Cheers
Hey Stephen, I think a wooden template is superior for a few reasons. First of all, it takes way less set up time once cut out. I can trace it onto a 4' bar a few times and work on a batch with minimal set up time. On the laser you need to take time to get it all aligned then run the job. Also when working with large bars doing batches, you wouldn't be able to fit the whole bar in the machines cutting space. Cheers!
Also..... If you take your logo make it a jpeg or png file. Import it into lightburn it will import as an IMAGE. 6000 MM/S (Do the math of your using MM/M) and a power of 30. This works different then FILL and LINE. basically it doesn't leave the laser on constant and fires the laser at a fast rate.
This looks like a super effective tool for a knife maker. Looks like you're picking up on how to use this super fast. Makes me wonder how much more this can do. You'll have to do some follow up videos in the future. :)
Cool man, you just confirmed my thoughts, I'm going to buy myself a laser engraver specifically for engraving knives and for cutting leather for scabbards! Thank you for the video!
XTool just released a metal engraving laser module for the D1 series of lasers. It might do a better job for you with engraving your mark on the blades. As a laser guy I will tell you just leave the air assist on for all projects you will rarely need to have it off. Another is Look at getting CerMark Ultra Laser Marking Aerosol, white spray paint or even just masking tape over the metal you want to engrave helps. Giving the laser a material that enhances the lasers output (not bare metal) helps a ton. Being a shinny surface you are only getting a small percentage of what the laser can do to the surface of the blade.
The 20w does have a capability to "mark" the steel but you can actually get colours (e.g. red), at least on stainless. You can also use marking sprays like Cermark, Brilliance or Enduramark for black on your steel.
@@RedBeardOps Also note different thicknesses of stainless require different settings. I found that out after doing a water bottle, which is likely .2mm vs a card that was .9mm. A test array (XCS) or materials test (Lightburn), will probably be most effective in the 60%+ power range, and 1-30mm/s (60-1800 mm/m) speed
Wow, I am impressed with that xtool, I have a CO2 laser and a Fiber laser, with the fiber i do makers mark for knifes etc. CO2 to do all non metals engraving and cutting. I have to say you save a lot of money not getting a CO2 laser as you have to deal with mirrors and lenses where the xtool doesnt have that it appears. Way cheaper than fiber laser as well.
Good review. That's a slick little tumbler too. I might have to do one of those for cartridge cases. Your tutorials and reviews are very much appreciated.👍🍻
So I've been tooling around debating about getting this set up and was about to pull the trigger yesterday, but wanted more info. Then you drop this video. Thanks!
From watching the video i think this will help you out in knife making. You can all so use it for things. Can't never have too many tools when making knives. Have fun .
i think even if the equipment is garbage, you should review it, it could be beneficial for some people, just as long as the people who might send you stuff won't get butt hurt
It's a tough one. Part of it is not wanting to spend time making videos on stuff that is questionable. Luckily this hasn't happened to me yet... I think the reason this hasn't happened is that I do my research on the items I'm accepting for reviews... so I at least know the equipment has worked for other people before talking the leap on my channel.
Are you saying this thing is garbage? I have one on the way and starting to feel like it's a toy laser.. guess I should have done more research and should have figured it was china made.
I have the 10W diode version of this laser. I would recommend going for the 20 if not the 40w. The 10 struggles on wood thicker than a few mm, haven't tried leather but I think it would burn more than cut. They make a IR module which MIGHT work better for marking metal but I think fibre would be the way to go. The template was a good idea, I hadn't thought of that. As I venture in to knifemaking I think I will keep mine around rather than sell at a loss but I wish I had gone with more power.
То же самое, что гордится токарным станком за $500))) и делать на станке 3д модели))) для маркировки есть маркеры, для резки стали, есть заточенные лазерные станки, а это игрушка для детей познавать мир) не более) а стамеской так же можно забивать гвозди) спасибо!
Great tool, great review, many thanks. I may put it on my buy list, but I'm happy with electroetching for now. If and when I start making a lot of sheathes this clearly would be a game changer.
@@RedBeardOps just finished your vid. Great review. I just watched a video on that laser showing it cut 19mm wood in one pass at 100% and 100mm/s which is excellent. I have the atomstack x7 10watt and knew even on that machine 100% power and 100mm/s on 1/8" wood is overkill. That leather cut is clean though!
mm/sec is co2 laser speed setting... For diode is mm/min bcz its a lot slower... And mever use 100% power on diode laser, it dramaticly reduce diode work time... Max 80%... For cutting its bether with more speed and a few passes, less burn traces left after cut... But great use of lasser... You have Cermark laser marker I think.. and Dry Molly works... Aply and laser when is dry... Fiber would be bether but its a lot expencive from diode laser...
I drew them up in nanoCAD; exported as dxf; then dragged into LightBurn for the sheath. I had the makers mark as a JPEG so I brought it straight into LightBurn
@@RedBeardOps I’ve had people request personalization on blades before, but I can’t afford a fiber laser for awhile… I’ll have to look into getting one of these… is there an option for you to get the new infrared laser module too?
Ha, I was just about to say, just dykem the blank and then do a quick pass to put the pattern on rather than using wood blanks. Maybe do a deep etch in the center of the handle pin holes to create a center punch for an exact location.
re Makers mark: you should be able to save money on stencils. If you put some tape on the blade, you can burn through it and start the etch with the laser, then use the unetched tape already in place as a stencil to add depth electrochmically.
@@RedBeardOps I’m spraying 2 coats of rustoleum matte black, about 20 mins apart, then let dry overnight. Burning it off with 1 pass, 400mm/min, 85% (10w model). Then etching and darkening with my electro etch machine at around 80% power (Personalizer Plus). After that using some Back to Nature Citrus paint stripper to take the paint off the blade. So far on hardened 1095 and 1084. All with good results. Even marked a few fully completed knives and just had to run a fine Sandflex block over it to clean it up. I’ll send you a message on Instagram with a photo of the results.
Good question, I really don't know. I've since heard that you shouldn't run the diode at 100% power... So I've been running it at 80% and it's doing good. Should increase the life. You can buy replacement lasers as well.
Those trim carbide rotary files with a bearing guide that you could technically put in a router-table rather than a die-grinder.... Would make trimming up to a glued on template from hardboard or cheap plywood after rough-cutting very quick, easy and repeatable... You could also use the laser to cut stitch holes........
-Cut your own vinyl resist out for etching and other things. If you wanted to replicate an exact clay pattern for a hamon, you could make a vinyl template to stick on the blade, coat with clay, and lift the vinyl off leaving the clay only where you wanted it. When you're bringing the hamon out after heat treatment, using the same template modified to only expose the thin line of the hamon and covering the rest of the blade for etching helps to accentuate it during polishing. -Add engraving or texture to scales, put your logo or designs on kydex. -Scales, G10 spacer material, and even leather biscuits for Ka-Bar style handles could be cut to shape precisely. I'm kinda running it through my head wondering if cutting out scales with a laser would be faster than the usual method of bandsaw to rough shape and hog the rest off with a belt. I can see it being beneficial for a few situations even if it ended up being slower...it would certainly have less waste, which works for me as I collect the scraps for future mistakes and woodworking projects. It would also be handy to perfectly locate scales (if you also laser etched the template on the steel) without having to remove any scale material by sanding beyond beveling or a touchup while off the knife. I've done a few pattern knives that I low temp blued and matching the scales to the tang without sanding off that bluing was difficult to say the least. If I had CNC precise scales to match a CNC precise tang, I wouldn't need to individually fit each scale flush by grinding some of the tang along with it. -Folding knives would be a snap if you could design them on the computer and simply laser etch the pattern of each part to a sheet of dykem coated steel. Making scales to fit against the bolster and whatnot, as well as locating screw holes accurately, would also save a lot of time if all you had to do was cut or mark them with the laser. Make prototype folders out of wood, or little wood knife kits meant for kids. -Kydex templates for sheaths or ancillaries like belt loops, possibly? I dunno how laser cutting thermoplastics would turn out, since even using a jigsaw makes the kerf melt back together sometimes. I guess an air assist to keep the kydex cool would be an important key to success. -Cut form fitting foam for knife shipping to keep it protected, like the big knife companies do.
Just a quick tip I found recently. Try wetting the leather before laser cutting, and cut the leather before applying any dyes/oils. No burned edges, and no burned odor.
Love your videos well done. You could really use a Langmuir CNC Plasma table. For all the fabrication you do. I have one myself fantastic shop tool. Best price around for this type of machine.
Also a knife guy doing leather. I've designed and etched images on stainless (440) and cut out. Also sheaths and awesome saddle style graphics on the leather. Patches, bracelets, belts, works awesome. I'm going to buy the new infrared module that etched all metals to put designs and logos on the blade
Thanks for all the detailed info in your video. I'm looking to cut leather. Thickness would be between 0.5mm and 2mm. Do you think a 20W Atomstack A5 could do it?
Cut the stich holes straight away. Why bother just marking them then make the holes by hand? Love this laser. An engraved bolster or guard would be interesting to play with. ✌ 😃
Yes you can! I know because I tested it today. Check out the results here in this thread - www.bladeforums.com/threads/cutting-out-patterns-with-a-diode-laser.1890095/
I guess it depends on what you mean by "work." I think with enough passes it could burn in. Then you'd have to blacken it like I did. They do advertise being able to mark stainless steel, but these diode lasers aren't really designed for deep etching steel, IMO. They are coming out with an infrared laser which I think will be strong enough for a lot of metal etching - www.xtool.com/products/xtool-1064nm-infrared-laser-module
I have a cheap diode array laser. I laser through nail polish then electroetch the nail polish acts as a mask or resist for the electrochemical etch. It’s the cleanest makers mark I have done. .
Try sanding up to 600 grit, then Laser etch. I'll bet it will be an even better mark. Over all looks like a slick little tool. Great review, your channel costs me a lot of money. 😁
LOL, I feel you man! Tools are cool, it's amazing what we have access to in 2022.... I'll have to give that a try, I'm a little worried about the reflective nature of 600 grit sanded steel.
Awesome video as usual and very relevant to me as I'm setting up my Neje diode laser I bought with almost the exact same uses in mind for my knife making 👍
