It’s sad that your “shop your closet” videos don’t do as well as “hauls”. Those are the ones I enjoy the most because they really show creativity and how we can apply that to our closets. Thank you for staying true to your values.
I’d like to gently push back against the idea that we are “wired to consume.” I recently dramatically cut my screen time and found that my desire to shop and consume has all but disappeared. We live on our phones and are constantly bombarded by ads, especially on social media. Put down your phone, go live life in reality and many of these issues could be improved.
I wholeheartedly agree with your comment and had the same experience recently. Did a summer pause for myself on social media and found that my desire to shop totally plummeted. I hadn’t even realized how it was impacting my brain in that way.
When I was a teenager my mother always said "we're not rich enough to buy cheapo clothes" and "fast fashion is a trap that keeps you broke." I wasn't interested at the time in giving up on my Le Chateau addiction lol, but looking down the decades I recognize that wisdom. The thing is, in the moment you need what you need /want what you want. It's hard to say "no, this is garbage, wait till next winter to buy a good quality coat." A few things that have helped: discovering the world of consignment stores and sticking to a "if you own it you wear it" rule. That rule has hit the breaks on my consumption like nothing else. How can I justify buying yet another cardigan when I have 3 I hardly ever reach for?
Sustainable brands have always been in a catch-22 situation. They need people to shop to exist, but they don't want people to shop very much because of their ethos. It's not a great business model and so they've had to hike up prices to make it work, pricing out most people. Let's face it, you could always get sustainable, well-made clothes that could last if you paid more.
Agree, true slow fashion garments are unattainable for most. The people who could most benefit from the slow-fashion garment movement right now are the those who buy hauls of cheaper fashion, essentially spending the same amount on 10-12 pieces as they would on one of higher quality, rather than the people who truly can only buy one sweater and their price cap is something from a lower quality brand. The other issue is that if people en masse were able to jump on a slow fashion brand, it will be come "faster" by comparison just to keep up. As Sezane has gotten more trendy, its quality has declined drastically. I remember when Oprah used to do her "favorite things" list every holiday season, and would do small brands a "favor" by highlighting them on her show. It seemed like a gift to begin with, but so many of these brands were crushed under the weight of new demand and either folded or became something of much lesser quality. That's why when you find something nice on the market, you almost want to gatekeep so it stays the same!
I would also say that “findability” is down. As someone who has and would currently love to buy ethically but is now a busy mom, my biggest problem is not the finances - it’s the time it takes to find the items I need. Usually I have a very specific wishlist (a lá capsule wardrobe) and when I search for these online, the small brands don’t even show up on the map. Big brands are much better at SEO and also tagging their product attributes for easier searching. Business idea: we need a Slow Fashion shopping platform that will allow smaller brands to consolidate marketing budget and invest in good website search functions. Like Zalando in EU, only specific to slow fashion brands.
So many thoughts went through my head as I listened. You can have all the best intentions in the world but it's driven by personal resources. As a retired person on a limited budget, all I can do is alternate the year I buy pair shoes and an item of clothing. My idea of sustainability is where will this item end up. It's the best I can do. I rely heavily on my knowledge of fabric and its care to slow my consumption. I'm great at taking care of my clothes and loving them year after year. I call this a win.
You make many excellent points, especially: "where will this item end up?" I saw a video here on YT I think with the title "No one wants your stuff," and that was a real kick in the pants for me. I was also struck by what you said about knowing your fabrics and how to care for them - and loving the pieces you've thoughtfully curated year after year. Definitely a win.
Sustainable brands flat out do not offer petite sizing in mid to large sizes. Forget petite plus, that's not ever happening. Tell me a sustainable size brand that offers a petite 14 in a tailored garment. I've read the average US woman is a 14 and 5'3" - the very definition of mid size petite. And women in other countries are even shorter. I flat out cannot find a button up shirt in a sustainable brand with a petite length sleeve, and that is a very difficult alteration. I am willing to pay higher prices. I'm willing to pay for alterations but that doesnt work for shortening button sleeves or short waisted jackets and dresses. That type of alteration is basically remaking the garment. In my size, the stock just isn't there.
I think it's important to mention that given slow fashion brands are often smaller, having to stretch their budgets on R&D and marketing and may not have access to their ideal technology/production/manufacturing, the quality of the item is not always there at the elevated price point. Spending $150 on an organic cotton tee that didn't hold up well through washings vs $50 on a similar (non-organic/larger brand etc...) one that does, consumers take note of this over time and it can unfortunately force a shift in behaviour away from smaller brands. Value is key, vs price, and quality will play a factor in that despite the best intentions.
Second hand has become the sustainable way for most environmental conscious people... Most cost effective when you are in a tight budget. The sad part is that now you see the large amount of fast fashion brands in second hand stores ... so you need to dig more to find cute hight quality pieces for a bargain. Great content ladies
I would add that second hand in general is starting to become more consumer-istic (is that a word?!) It's a dangerous slope for some ...I'm seeing a lot of second hand/vintage 'haul' videos advertised, so for some it misses the point. Though I agree with your comments on the whole!
For me, when younger, I didn't have a good job and wore rags practically. Now with a good income/career, I can finally acquire a quality wardrobe. It's frustrating to look for clothing and instead of describing the clothing, these companies go into lengthy detail about sustainability which is great but ultimately, I am looking to wear something of quality I enjoy and not feel guilt. I've tried thrifting copious times and have never found anything I'd want even for free.
That’s it, we need to do better at looking at the addiction, the drive, to just buy. It’s relentless and built into the online spaces many are in. We have to put something in first, to shift that conditioning that Christina spoke about,
Nature. If we focus on cheapness as rational, we factor out nature completely. It is finite; we hit tipping point some time ago. We are consuming off the backs of the people and places being destroyed by climate and deforestation. Temu aren’t bombard marketing in Dhaka. “Nature” apparently only applies when it’s invoked in support of ‘you do you’ hauling or whatevs. We are sure in a bubble, and when it pops, it will be the Canada Goose and Blundstone and merino wool we need, and the water and food we wasted making 52 types of denim and growing burgers. The rest will be toxic pyrrh. How is it being Debbie downer to state the damn truth?
The point about ‘shopping your way to sustainability’. I only buy second hand because there’s so much clothing already existing in the world that I don’t feel like I ever need to buy new, even if it’s ethically produced. Honestly i’ve never bought new from an ethical brand. I would imagine that a lot of people interested in sustainability will look at second hand first because there’s such an abundance.
Exactly or buy new very so infrequently so the company/shareholders do not see the sustained value of the garment despite being worn a large number of times.
To play devils advocate, as consumers where is our accountability? Major corporations have been taking advantage of our addictions for decades. If there isn’t money to be made they would change! We as consumers need to place more emphasis on VALUE!! Value of people, time, what we have, living!!
I definitely agree with this! There's too much victimization that comes with shopping and consumption as well as too many misguided judgments that go around simply because we, as consumers, don't want to be forced into buying things we don't want. Intentionality starts with us as citizens/customers.... the business industry isn't going to care about you going broke.
Most, if not all ethical clothing sources do not cater to those of us who are petite. At 5 feet tall, I find my choices are extremely limited. Would love recommendations for affordable and ethical clothing sources.
and the same goes for very tall people, my boyfriend is lucky if he can find 1 shirt or 1 pair of shoes his size in a whole street of shops, and these sustainable shops are even more limited. I get it, they cannot produce as wide a range as highstreet fashion because it just doesn't break even, but even high street barely caters to larger petite people, tall people, very skiny people, very big people etc. It's really stuck between a rock and a hard place
My small clothing business began to end when one zíper costed as much as an entire Chinese coat to sell. And the majority of world’s population is struggling to buy having restricted budgets, influenced to buy and buy more. The quality of material is getting worse. Fabric, finishing and so. The alternative to thrift gets more and more attractive for a huge amount of people as me.
A major barrier to me shopping sustainable brands aside from the price, is the selection offered. Most of the shops I’ve come across have very basic or androgynous clothing which is not my thing at all. If I saw more pretty dresses, skirts and blouses I would be more inclined to buy from them.
This content reminds me of your previous comments considering the question “how much is enough?” I keep seeing thrifting posts labeled as “hauls” and that characterization somehow feels so counterproductive. Thank you for this podcast!
I have to wonder how much of that is simply playing to the algorithm, though, especially if 'haul' videos (or videos labelled as 'hauls') do better than other content. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying it's right and that that style of video as a whole doesn't have a lot of things wrong with it, but how much of it is, overall, playing to an algorithm that pushes such content should also be taken into account.
I think we have to focus on just being slower. Slow down the purchasing, slow down the scrolling, slow down the decision making, slow down the discarding, and look for brands and quality that will last long enough to live their best life with you. The term sustainable has turned into the same thing as “natural” in food. Sustainability would have to be regulated like “organic” in order for the consumer to get half way to trusting the word sustainable. Of course, we need to continue supporting the REAL sustainable companies when we can afford too, but as with all things success will be something that takes a collective effort between regulation, consumers, and brands. As I listen, I keep thinking of Birkenstock, they have been sustainable from the beginning. But they don’t claim that label in any way. Yet, you can buy a pair of Birks and keep them for years and even have them rebuilt. Shopping secondhand has become such a challenge for me, and it used to be almost 80% of my shopping. I’ve become allergic to detergents and perfumes and it’s a real struggle to even walk into or order online without perfume being an issue. So I need options. Great talk ladies…very thought provoking.
Before ready made clothes, most ppl bought patterns or made their own clothes from scratch. Ppl had one nicer outfit for Sundays and weddings. Clothes were patched and mended and passed down. Now closets are overstuffed and spilled into rented storage. Ppl no matter rich or poor, own countless tee shirts jeans shoes etc etc.. I had honest tries from time to time to curb my non essential purchases. I do not need any addition in my closet and jewelry box, none whatsoever. However the deep discount and the newness lure every season still get me to order box after box of goods.
Slow/ethical/sustainable brands are up against a behemoth: the consumer advertising industry that has taught everyone that they deserve to have new stuff, for very low prices, all the time. It's a mindset shift toward entitlement: "I ought to be able to buy lots of stuff all the time, and if I can't keep spending at the same rate due to [insert economic factor here], I'll just go to a cheaper brand regardless of their pollution record or labor rights violations." (Instead of buying secondhand or buying LESS.) I don't really agree that one garment can't satisfy the craving for newness because humans are just wired that way; I think our current cultural climate has conditioned people to over-consume. I mean after all, what did people do before the arrival of cheap stuff and credit cards?
Thank you for this interesting episode! In the Eu country in which I live, many „slow fashion” brands have been launched, now many of them are struggling. Some critics comment sarcastically that they should not complain - they’ve been convincing their customers to buy less, to „invest” in carefully selected quality / versatile pieces and they have succeeded. Why are they complaining that their customers are not buying anymore? I find this statement very harsh, but somewhat … true. At least in my case, I bought a few slow fashion pieces, they wear well, I am satisfied and don’t need to buy more, even if I like / support the brand. Sad truth is that - if they want to truly promote sustainability- they cannot rely on clients often returning to shop again, they need to constantly fight for new audiences/clients. Uphill battle…
Yes and no. They can rely on returning customers, but maybe once every 2-3 years when some item wears out, or you need a different size. The cycle is much longer than fast fashion
You're preaching to the choir with me but I still love and learn from your podcast. I wanted to offer a different view on one small thing you mentioned. Regarding the cheap/easy dopamine hit: I don't lump podcasts in that category. So many cultures have a deep history and tradition of stories being passed down orally from one generation to the next. I think the better podcasts (like yours) fall into that category. I understand that it's different than people telling stories to each other IRL but podcasts open us up to topics and thoughts we might not get in our own circles. No one I know is talking about or concerned with sustainability at this level. Your podcast educates me and gives me something different to add to conversations in my circle of people. I know I'm not doing the best job of being a sustainable consumer, but I'm improving every day and your podcast helps to educate and encourage me. Be the change you want to see, right? Thanks for what you do!
Thank you as always for an excellent episode and really hitting the nail on the head - hyperconsumption seems to be the underlying cause of unsustainable practices in the fashion industry. Fast fashion stores and online/print fashion magazines are the main external factors that drive this through hyper-production, incessant trend cycles and marketing to our insecurities - I would love to see political action and regulation to fight these unethical practices. But as consumers, we also need help to be retrained to reduce our consumption - and you all do such wonderful work highlighting the internal factors that are under our control! I'm certain you've helped many of us shift our mindset with quick practical principles (secondhand first; styling what we have; mending and alterations, wardrobe/outfit cataloging tools etc..). Long-term habit shifts in consumption are also necessary which again you all communicate so well. Gaining a deeper understanding of our clothes as style elements (Alyssa); building appreciation for how our clothes help us to function and express ourselves in different areas of our lives (Signe); and keeping our wardrobes to a manageable size by being able to distinguish what we want for style versatility vs what we functionally need (Christina) are my favourite themes in your content. We are so grateful for it and long may it continue
I would say slow fashion prices have trebled. It’s not really achievable except with far far slower consumption and in reality I am not sure they are honestly targeting that or that we are honestly there yet.
I have been a consumer of slow fashion for 15+ years. In years past, I would save and buy that shirt for $150/200, knowing I'm going to wear it for at least 10 years. Now, that same quality shirt is costing $500. Things are just at a price point that is above what I think it's worth. So, right now, I'm shopping at places like Eileen Fisher and thrift stores. However, I would like to shop with smaller brands.
Maybe this isn’t exactly on the topic, but I did want to share as it directly relates to slowing down/buying better/finding ways to support these brands. Until I found a mindset that was more seductive than my current mindset, there was no behavioral changes that were genuinely sustainable. Short term strategies like low buys, etc. are fantastic, but I found if the root isn’t addressed, then everything else feels like a battle. I can only use my own experience as an example, but (at the risk of sounding totally cliché) I have found an “old money mindset” far more seductive and motivating and engaging than my previous stereotypically “modern mindset.” And I am NOT old money, but that’s not the point. Well-worn, timeless pieces are far sexier than being on trend. The long term dopamine of travel is far more seductive than short term spending hits. An ACTUAL investment (property, stocks, etc.) is way better than a faux “investment piece.” Actual math is better than girl math. Putting even $5 into a savings account when I need a “quick dopamine hit” feels far more responsible and much more exciting. Ideas like generational wealth, travel, education, personal net worth, insouciance to the modern mindset, legacy, aspirationally time-worn pieces, philanthropy, enigmatic indifference to new money hallmarks/tropes, etc. all get my heart racing FAR more than consumerism, shopping, etc. But until I decided that is what I wanted and who I wanted to ACTUALLY be (not just have that aesthetic), it was too easy to fall into old habits and an identity I no longer wanted. And I have, oddly enough, never felt better about the way I look and how I dress and the pieces I have. Again, I am no psychologist. But I have found GENUINELY changing your identity/life changes your confidence which changes everything.
There needs to be trade negotiations that require ethical production. The ethical production would make the costs increase and consumption decrease. I don’t see any of this really happen unless countries agree on the rules of trade in this regard. Regulate the import Shein clothes - tax them a lot and use the money for environmental cleanup or ban it - Shein is not ok.
Excellent! There are so many thoughts running through my head regarding the complexities of this subject. This, in turn, proves to me that your podcast and your individual channels are valuable in educating and encouraging change. Thank you, I appreciate you all 💗
Christina, I’ve adopted your motto of “unless it’s a hell yes, it’s a no” and it has definitely helped me curate my closet. I’m even getting my husband to adopt it. Thank you! Living in Alaska, shopping In general can be limiting, so I rely heavily on the Banana Republic brands because they fit me well and they have free return shipping, so I can return it if it doesn’t work for me. I do try to shop small/ shop local as much as possible, but the selections don’t always fit my aesthetic- or are too focused on trends and don’t offer enough basics.
It's so hard to find something I like and that fits me (I've had endless problems having clothes altered). So if I find something nice, I buy it, I usually shop at M&S but are they any better than Zara or Primark or H&M? I don't think so, but what can I do? There's no way of really checking how any company treats its employees, the environment, etc. Everyone uses the words recycling and sustainable now. All I can do from my end is to treat my clothes with care so they last longer and not overbuy. I am not a slave to trends. I don't buy from Shein and I am a careful buyer.
My biggest issue with brands that are specifically 'slow fashion' is in general, they are so boring, boxy, and drape terribly on me! They aren't innovative with style because they can't really be to sustain their business model in general. Maybe I've just been looking in the wrong places. A brand I follow, called Clons is the only one that goes against that in my mind. They are super unique and innovative, but can stay 'slow' because they don't put out a high volume. They make cool, unique stuff, and next year, they'll put out another set off cool, unique stuff they'll sell out of. But I think going along with your conversation here, I have evolved the way I view slow fashion for myself in being slowing down, buying less, and keep/maintain those items, regardless if I got it from Zara or whatever. In my pursuit of living a more eco friendly lifestyle I was working on giving up meat, and in a moment of struggle a friend said to me 'Don't let perfect be the enemy of good' and that seriously resonated with me and it applies so well here with fashion too. Fast fashion brands are successful because of the volume we consume from them as a whole, not the fact that we do consume them. We all collectively just need to be more mindful in how we consume (food, clothes, content, etc!)
With three kids, one whom we’re about to put through college, and living on a fixed military income, my budget only allows so much. During this season, sustainability (in life and fashion) is buying secondhand, regardless of whether it’s a sustainable brand, and focusing on fabric and workmanship so that even those used items will last longer. I want to be more sustainable than I’m able to be I think.
The issue with fashion is the opaque supply chain. A lot of brands can’t tell you how much the workers were paid because 7 pieces were made in 7 different factories, and the factories subcontracted other factories for half the production in order to meet deadlines or volume etc. etc. The information is lost through this decentralised production, there’s not a single standard for worker rights or pay or safety across even one brand.
While I like thrifting, I find the related FOMO harder to resist as there is usually only one. I prefer the "shop your closets" over the hauls. I purposefully tend to avoid hauls as I then want something I didn't know existed prior. SYC videos show to work with your already owned items.
In Brazil the government taxes to produce something is so high that make our small business not competitive at all to fast fashion products ! Oh I wished…
Unfortunately as much as I want to purchase from these ethical brands, many of them have hidden costs of alterations for me in that I need to shorten them, which has become expensive in the U.K. As well as the fact that one item is usually between a half and two thirds of my clothing budget for the year, so now I’m sticking second hand and sales from a few favourite brands. I’d really love to know what you think about fast fashion brands now having 2nd hand sections in their stores and that second hand prices are now going up as well as using sustainable shopping to boost their profits.
Something odd is that often ethical brands where I live, are over priced for the fabric, design and seeing detailing they offer. In the end I often end up, simply buying fabric and making something of better quality at home.
To me a big aspect of ‘sustainability’ in clothing is the ACTUAL quality of the garment. Which I realize isn’t completely what your are discussing. But these are what consumers aren’t demanding! Are the seams sewn properly? Is there enough seam allowance to be able to tailor the garment over time? Fabric choices, proper manufacturing means my clothes don’t need to be replaced, they simply won’t fall apart. Anyone who owns a really OLD Gap or JCrew cotton sweater chuckles because they know that yes, they are tired of it but it is still holding up after years of wear. I think these brands have lost quality. Where they ever sustainable? Who knows I just know, I don’t need a new navy sweater every year😅 I totally agree with the dopamine fix-it’s scary. I recently signed up for a clothing rental service with a ‘plan’ for myself to use it only 6 -8 times during the year just for event, travel and special occasions when I need a fix to feel fresh. I enjoy the HUNT and I get that it can not be the best for me, so this is my solution for this year. 🤞
Great conversation- I have found myself wanting, despite not really needing anything new. All the points you make are good, but we also need to be more conscious consumers by being self-aware. So often, society operates almost mindlessly, just plodding along and doing the same things day after day. As consumers, WE have to do the personal work to maintain our values consistently. Many ate not willing to do that.
The biggest challenge and problem, that trying to do clothes sustainable it is hard to do it also cost effective ( which doesn't mean any bad thing, it is just trying to calculate in the best way). This brings to price of the garment, that not many people are willing to buy. I think indeed sustainable shopping first of us for individuals means shop less and choose well.that is why I appreciate so much content of each of you, because you all give tools to cristalize style and to understand what exactly one needs (or wants to buy to use as much as possible and be happy with wardrobe). Another thing are this crazy ultra fast fashion brands - I do thing governmental control is very important here. Even if we will notbuy it, they have already produced all this poisoning and harmful for the nature garnments. We cannot control production, but the governmental acts can. And yes, long live thrifting. It takes much more time, that is true. But knowing how good it is comparing to buy fast fashion (if it is not over shopping) having the same price, it makes so much sense! By the way, one thing I am so grateful for lately, is your advice to think some time before buy. It saved me so much money recently 😊
I'm a little uncomfortable with this idea that we are somehow hard-wired to be hunter gathers and want shiny new things. In part, it's because we are so far removed from that aspect of our human-ness, and around the world, I don't see any other culture having this same issue of constant consumption and hoarding as a psychological condition like we see in the U.S. (not sure how much this also shows up in Canada or Europe but not in the places I've traveled). I think the U.S. capitalism and globalization of U.S. culture increasingly influences other parts of the world. But even 100 years ago, our grandparents living through the recession didn't have the luxury of over-consumption, so referencing hunter -gatherer tendencies seems too far removed. I would be curious to hear a conversation about more recent global/economic trends that are affecting generational consumption patterns in the past 100 years that are driving changes--and how that varies across other areas of the world?
Local Slow Fashion brands are great, but oftentimes the cuts and styles are very weird. It’s like they maybe try a little too hard to not only be sustainable, but also be the next big avantgarde thing. I hardly found anything really wearable, at least not in my country. Then the prices - I hate to say it because I wholeheartedly understand that local sustainable brands need to have higher prices - but I can’t afford it and I’m financially stable. I really prefer buying high quality pieces second hand over supporting ANYTHING new that’s been thrown into a world that’s already drowning in stuff.
Unfortunately most business aim for max profit and marketing drives consumption speaking to the lowest instincts in ppl. I do not think the problem is us not having money. The problem is us wanting more than we actually can consume. The same thing goes to food eg. and the way junkfood and fast food are promoted and consumed.
For consumers to become conscious they need to really understand and weight and process what is wrong with Fast Fashion. As long as consumers are buying the "ethical" labeled items out of guilt, it means more work should be done in order to make everybody fully aware of the environmental toll and the unacceptable labor exploitation related to the fast fashion brands. We must care. Honestly I think some of the profit-driven practics of this unethical brands should just be illegal. Governments have a big responsibility here. I don't like when it becomes all about the consumers behavior. It is much more complex than that, it creates guilt and it's immensely counterproductive.
The thing is, you are saying sustainable fashion, which means they will supposedly last longer than fast fashion ? I have items i have purchased at my local fast fashion stores and because i have cared for them well i will have them for a very long time. So to me, if people are taking good care of the clothing and it is not something that is just a trend of the moment you do not need to buy from a slow fashion brand for 5 or 10 times more cost.
I have an Eddie Bauer cotton shirt that was meant for outdoor work that I bought at goodwill 10 years ago. I can get that shirt absolutely covered in dirt doing farmwork all day, wash it, (line dry), and it comes out good as new every time. I can even wear it to the office. But I do have to take care to line dry it and shake out the wrinkles. I'm not sure even sustainable brands produce something THAT good. It's a consumer lead trend.
IMO i care most about labour rights and buying for companies with clear tracibility in supply chains when buying new. Most companies hat talk sustainability its really superficial. But as you mention what the purchase price is, is no clear indication of quality. But buying something that fit your body and meet your lifestyle and you can maintain properly over time is a critical one, as well as what happens to the item when you think your done with it? Is it given to a friend if your body has changed? Is it repaired if it gets a hole? Is it used as rags for cleaning? Is it donated/worth donating or are we really giving our self a false sense of pride and overloading someone else to dispose of an item not worth selling or wearing again? All of that is worth considering your habits with
It is not about sustainable fashion, but sustainable use of fashion. There is no point buying 20 sustainable tshirts and wear only 2. Just buy 2, sustainable or fast fashion, it doesn't matter.
"The reason that the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned, was because they managed to spend less money. Take boots, for example. ... A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. ... But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that'd still be keeping his feet dry in ten years' time, while a poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet." - Terry Pratchett
From listening to this week's podcast I have a bit more grace for some of the current 'trends' I'm seeing from slow fashion brands. Examples, many are having more frequent product releases than in the past & the number of emails, texts etc are also rising. I was finding that frustrating, but I now have a different filter to view that when I consider what it must take for them to economically be viable and succeed. I'll give you a very LIVE example. I recently ordered a pair of shoes from a slow fashion, sustainable brand, handmade, beautiful leather (and with a recommendation from someone I know who is not an influencer for them...she is an influencer for other brands, but after a recent trip to Europe and 20K+ steps a day she had to call out this Canadian brand because they are truly beautifully made & comfortable...frankly I do think the rise of compensated influence is becoming an issue in the conversation of mindful consumption and slow fashion, but that's a topic for another day). So when I was in a city where this company has a store I popped in to try on the shoes. Of course they didn't have my size in stock (when you make smaller batches that's common) so I had to try on a similar (but not the same) shoe in a size 'close' to my size. It was comfortable & I was hopeful. Still this was a significant investment (handmade quality cannot be cheap), so I didn't preorder on the spot, I thought, prayed, spoke to my husband, researched etc. When I decided to finally order (well, my husband spurred it on, he is buying them for my birthday) I even connected virtually with their consierge, measured every aspect of my foot and took their recommendation of size. (breathe......I know the forgoing was a long summary, but being mindful is a long process). Then I waited til the shoes were in stock and last week they were shipped. During that time I noticed how many promotional emails (unrelated to my order) I received and the day before my order was delivered, I even got an email from the founders (I know it's got to be a form letter/automated communication) asking me for a review of my purchase and offering me a discount on future purchase in exchange for referral. I must admit I was annoyed. I thought 'how is this slow fashion' if you barrage me with so much in a few weeks of waiting for an order & then before the order is even received are asking for review and offering compensation to entice me to buy more right away?! Even if that enticement email came the day following the arrival of my shoes, I still thought that would be inappropriate, to truly review something and give a recommendation I can't simply have tried it on and worn it once! ...cut to the chase, I received the shoes and they were beautiful but slightly pinched in one area. I almost talked myself into just keeping because 'they're such good leather, they'll probably stretch', but I couldn't, these were to be 'out of the box' comfortable. So I started the process of reaching out the consierge and explaining. (Those size charts and measurements given even on good websites are not tailored to each pair of shoes, they are general). I felt bad needing to sending this pair back and have them ship the new pair (it costs them alot), but I couldn't forgo this if these shoes were going to be what they were supposed to be to justify the spot they were getting in my wardrobe for the next 10+ years. The consierge was very good to work with, and so at the end I mentioned the amount of promotional emails I had been receiving and in particular the enticement to review I've shared above. I explained I was raising because this just didn't 'feel' like a slow fashion approach, to have not even been able to wear the product and to be enticed/compensated to share a review (how could it be genuine) and that for me a decision to make a further purchase could not come quickly no matter the enticement. I shared kindly and out of kindness. I don't know if my one small voice can make a difference on the matter, but I know that staying silent wouldn't have helped them. AND today I know that grace is required on my part and all of our parts as slow fashion company's navigate being viable in the world of consumerism. One last note, even though this message has grown too long. I love the shop your closet videos. Allyssa, your SYC videos are my favourite! We are completely different styles, you are tall & model like, but I take so much from them (and your live shop your closets...I have attended 2 in the course of time). I'm petite and curvy and have a much different style vibe, so that I take what I experience from your videos and events and am able to make it my own is a credit and praise to you! (I abour haul videos....thank you for encouraging creativity over consumption!!!)
I haven’t watched many of your podcasts so perhaps you have covered this somewhere already but I would be interested in hearing your thoughts on a pattern I’ve noticed among so called ‘sustainable’ brands and that is that they are now putting out these ‘limited’ releases or ‘drops’ of supposedly only limited styles or color ways etc. I think sometimes, some brands are doing it in a more legitimate way but then others are using it to create the urgency to buy the item ‘now’ because if you don’t then they have already ‘advertised’ it is ‘limited’ and it may never be offered again. And yet often later they will actually make some more ‘runs’ of the items. I have definitely fallen for this. I find it frustrating when people give the tip/ advice to just put an item on a wish list ,wait a few days, try to find it first second line and then if you can’t buy it from a sustainable brand …all to stop ‘impulse’ buying etc. These brands are making these options not a possibility if there is an item I am legitimately considering. It seems like it is becoming more common and it’s seems ( though I could be wrong) to be more prevalent among ‘sustainable’ brands. I would be interested in hearing your opinions and experiences with this. Is it just me? And I would appreciate any of you doing a video perhaps giving tips about how to know when a brand is doing it more legitimately and when they are just using it as just another marketing tool. Almost all of these ‘smaller’ brands also do not offer money back refunds but rather just ‘store credit’ only. So I have ended up either with items that don’t quite work but I keep it because it’s ’good enough’ and the money is already spent and sometimes that one item was the only item I really wanted from that brand. I was trying to curate well but then I get ‘had’/‘stuck’ like this. I find that policy very contradictory to helping or encouraging consumers to be more mindful/ not wasteful or slow. I find it ironic and perplexing by supposedly ‘slow fashion’ brands. Any help would be appreciated.
I think besides price is the fabrics in sustainable clothing. Often fabrics like cotton, linen and wool require more money and time to maintain. They require ironing and dry cleaning. I also think so called influencers push new looks and accessories all the time.
There is no culture of "buy the cheapest thing". The ENTIRE marketing industry is dedicated to convincing you to buy one company's product over another, and has been, forever. Your issues that you are talking about are entirely due to the choice to use social media in the way you use it. There's a reason the Walmart brand chocolate chips sit next to Tollhouse, and the Tollhouse ones sell better. There's a reason for 10 different brands of toilet paper that get bought, and the cheapest single ply is not always out of stock. And keep in mind, the cheapest lipstick option is not buying lipstick.
I counted whilst trying to watch podcasts and RU-vid channels on Sunday .. all 6 of them .. I "skipped" Temu ads 30 times ... that's 5 times in a video.. we are bombarded by rubbish ... I also don't shop in the low end shops here .. just walking in the door has you breathing in the petrol chemical smell of cheap and recycled fabrics ... and sadly there's little to no "slow" fashion in Johannesburg that wasn't once a Shein or Superbalist item ....
Ladies, you have just manager to put a finger on something I notice a lot across social media. People still posting hauls every week and buying or showing stuff from She In and Temu. I am really sad and frustrated about. I know people are trying to get as much for their money as they possibly can, but that's the point if the things they buy are very bad material and quality. I always think about writing to the influencer or a RU-vidr acting this way on social media, but then I stop myself thinking that being a responsible consumer is probably the furthest thing on their priority list. It feels kind of sad 😔
