Great video! It was really well laid out and you did a great good citing of sources and using expert knowledge. I enjoyed this thoroughly... I've been dealing with pain when trying on various shoes as I go for my second pair and I'm trying to avoid damaging my feet.
Best of luck on finding the right fit. See below for an article that may also help with shoe selection: theclimbingdoctor.com/common-pain-climbing-choose-the-right-shoe/
They need to make climbing shoes that allow for natural foot anatomy while maintaining a tight fit. I'm imagining custom fit toe spacers that are an insert that slide in before you put these wider toe box climbing shoes. I haven't seen anything that addresses foot health with high performance. Maybe one day.
I think that's what Mad Rock is trying to do if you see the shape of Drone 2.0 and the new Shark V3. It's now aggressively downturned and when you hear one of their engineer (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iOUPE3cFdBg.html) they're trying to stay with a kind of flat shoes but just bent the toes where it's needed for the power needed. Sorry if it's unclear but that's what I remember when I was searching for a new shoes because I have terribly week toes and downsizing too much on shoes hurt too much
@@Lucroz94 keeping it flat and only pointed where it's needed doesn't address the crowding issue though. I'm not an expert, but to me it's about keeping the toes to act as one solid piece. Why not achieve that with spacers, so when you walk normally your feet are splayed like they're supposed to be?
After wearing quite tight shoes regularly (3/4 climbing sessions a week) as a beginner I've discovered chronic pain in one of my heels. After couple of sessions with physiotherapist focused on healing achilles tendonosis and resting for 2 months I got an USG scan. My achilles is healed, but I have some inflammation and visible overload in the tendons of the tibialis posterior, flexor digitorum longus and peroneus longus. I've tried to climb again wearing comfortable but still tight enough to climb shoes, but can still feel discomfort and even pain in my heel, just below achilles when I climb for longer then an hour. Any tips on how I can get rid of this problem, as physiotherapist claims that everything from hip to toe works fine now?
Pain in the Achilles region can come from several different tissues. There is the tendon, bursa, nerves (tibial nerve on the inside - sural nerve on the outside), fat pad, and a joint (subtalor joint - right below the ankle bone). All of these structures need to be ruled out. If the pain generator is still just the tendon and you have gone through best practices of loading principles, footwear modifications (stay toned for some new videos and blog posts on that subject) and progressive loading are your best options.
@@kyle.s6646 accutaly tightness of a rubber strap around the heel is causing most issues for me, I've even tried cutting it and would recommend to do so. Shoes that wrap heel more evenly on all contact points feel more comfortable and less painful.
Supination is not considered wrong, but it is a finding on imaging of a climbers foot inside of a a tight climbing shoe. A tight fitting climbing shoe squeezes a natural foot posture into a more supinated posture. While this may improve climbing performance, if a climber chooses a shoe that is too aggressive, it can lead to bony and soft tissue changes in the foot. To achieve three points of contact while climbing without external support from a shoe, a climber simply using their muscle (peroneus longus andflexor hallucis longus) to plantarflex their first ray and big toe to inside edge more easily. It is always a tradeoff of support (either too much or too little) from a climber shoe and a climber's muscle function and movement patterns.
