Are YOU Making These Top 5 Swarm Trapping Mistakes? 

All legitimate reasons!

Several years ago I started using 8 frame and 10 frame deeps with attached bottom boards as swarm traps. I haven't looked back as this has proven very successful. As a bonus, I don't have to transfer the swarms to other boxes. The traps become their permanent homes.

Another mistake is not to secure the ladder and dropping the hive without a beesuit on.

Hey, a very nicely put together presentation. I appreciate your getting to the point while delivering only the crucial details and also giving us what’s possible vs what’s realistic. 🐝🐝

Thank you. Vey valuable information for someone just starting out in beekeeping and looking to build his and hers’ Apiary.

One thing I'd add is to have your swarm box tethered shut. I like to screw on the bottom and strap the top down. It makes it easier to pull the trap down.

Thank you

Having a rotating beehive entrance gate is very useful when you need to move the swarm. ie - sneak up on the trap at dusk, turn the door to the vent position. No fuss.

How long should you leave them in the trap if all you had was foundationless frames before you move them to a new nuc box?

I know you mentioned height of a swarm trap but, how do you pick a location, location, location ?

I would like to know how close you can get to existing beehives with your swarm traps. Thanks much. Also, where is your location and what is swarm season for YOU?

I did 4 cutouts last year two in houses entrances about 9 ft. maybe 10 at most one in water meter box in the ground and one in a tree with about a foot of FULLY exposed comb and bees right on the ground the hive went up the in the tree about 5-6 ft. Near as i could tell they were all feral colony's. They can and will land where they chose. I think what he is saying is averagely speaking they are found at the 15 ft. level, I don't advocate telling others to dangle off a ladder to put up or remove witch is even harder, If one choses to do that than more power to you. PS really liked the video.

I've caught swarms 2 feet off the ground in August and successfully over wintered them.

If you add frames with comb, does it not attract wax moths to move in?

I have two hives now, I want to add a swarm trap to my property with attractant. Will this negativly effect my hives?

I came to the conclusion that bees want to see a bit of open space,when inspecting a new location.Cobus🐳

Bee swarm lures, often called swarm traps or bait hives, are used to attract bee swarms. The lure often contains a few key ingredients: 1. **Lemongrass Oil**: Lemongrass oil contains naturally occurring pheromones that are similar to those produced by honeybees. This scent can help to attract scout bees to the trap. 2. **Old Bee Hive Material**: Pieces of old bee hives, such as beeswax or propolis, can also attract bees. They can smell the previous hive's scent and may decide to move in because the location has been successful for bees before. 3. **Queen Pheromones**: Some beekeepers use synthetic queen pheromones. These can attract swarms because the scent indicates that a queen bee is present, which is a necessary component for a new hive. 4. **Suitable Box**: While not an ingredient per se, the box or trap itself is part of the lure. Ideally, it should be the approximate size of a small beehive and placed somewhere high off the ground with an easily accessible entrance. Remember, the success of a bee swarm lure can depend on several factors including timing, weather, and local bee populations.

The #1 mistake is using too much lure. The swarms hang on the outside but do not enter.

Height doesn’t make any difference. None of my swarm traps are higher than six feet. I caught 25 swarms last year.

The first mistake is “it’s not a trap”….. no bees get trapped inside, surely a trap traps things? It’s a bait hive…….