As a newcomer, it is tempting for me to set it to 1.8, just because i can, and the more light, the better, but you have shown me, that 2.8 is actually much better in those situations. Thanks :-)
I needed this video so badly! New to photography and absolutely guilty of cranking the f stop as low as it can go. Definitely noticed the chromatic aberration and had no clue what it was or how to fix it in addition to struggling to get the subject(s) of my photos sharper. Thank you so much for taking the time to create such a helpful video!!
I wholeheartedly agree. I've taken some of my best photographs with this lens, yet I rarely stop it down to its widest. It's cheap and super sharp, even on the Canon 90D, which is supposed to be unforgiving of budget lenses. I must say, though, that I never worry about chromatic aberration: it's so easy to get rid of in post.
@@willemdebeer2507 You'll get some very good shots with it, and perhaps more importantly, it'll encourage you to be a better photographer by having to move throughout the scene to compose instead of zooming.
Apart from your photography knowledge, you are a naturally gifted teacher; to be able to explain complex subjects in a simplified format; this is a rare skill :)
It's almost akin to a motor. There are absolutely times where you want to be driving around at low RPM and, conversely, where you want to have it at redline. But the motor is meant to be operated somewhere in the powerband, not lugging or redlining. That's where the optics, machining, and tolerances shine.
I've just recently got my 50mm f1.8, this video is extremely useful and helpful. I tried it at f1. 8 only so far but now I'm going to try more apertures and experiment, thank you. Subscribed.
Recently picked up a camera and a 50mm, and this seems to address exactly the problem I've been having with sharpness/clarity. Very well explained, too.
That explains why I have some really good lenses but sometimes Im getting some quite blurry images. Top Bloke - thank you for not over complicating all your videos.
Partly.... Back in the days when these lenses were first used, they were intended to be used with film SLRs - where the brightness of the image in the viewfinder was directly related to the aperture of the lens wide open. F1.8 was just there to make the camera easier to use - especially when (manually) focusing: no one expected you to actually take the shot wide open - it was just for viewing and focusing. Of course, later, people found good reasons to actually take pictures wide open too.....
So often a super blurry background looks like the subject has been photoshopped into the photo. I hate that artificial look. Everything in balance. Helpful video--well done.
I've watched so many videos on this lenses ability to just create "creamy bokeh" that I too caught the "Bokeh Bug"! I just got this lens today went straight to 1.8, and started shooting away. As a new photographer I thank you for helping me to free my mind and understand my cameras full potential!
Definitely, it's like when a beginner guitar player uses too much distortion, you CAN do it and it's fun, but the best clarity comes from backing off and working harder. Step down a bit people ☺️
Picked up this lens for portraits and cars shots, because of the talk of the extreme blur. Now you have taught me the full potential of this lens thank you so much!
Came across your video and so glad someone else is saying this. I use 3.5-4 on my 1.8 all the time as I start to get pleasing Bokeh and sharp images at those apertures. Well done!
I agree with most points - the only 2 things I would challenge is the notion, that this is a universal rule and that this canon f1.8 is a high quality - with or without metal back. Let's be real, the 50 f1.8 is like a 100-150€ or $ lens, making it the absolute cheapest native option for most systems. These are awesome for the price, but they do come with drawbacks, that more expensive primes don't have. And yes, you can get amazing results with relatively good sharpness, but you will not need to step down the f-value (as you pointed out). But: with an actual high quality lens, the issues with sharpness and chromatic aberrations usually improve dramatically. If you want great results wide open, the sigma art lenses, Canon L or Sony GMs etc will be razor sharp even wide open at f1.4 or even f1.2 and only suffer from a neglectable amount of CA. Less expensive alternatives would be the Sony 55 f1.8, or my personal favorite, the Samyang 45mm f1.8 which is sharp wide open and only shows CA in extreme high contrast scenes (it's a little more difficult for canon or ikon shooters, there are really not a lot of "mid-class" lenses fpor their dslm systems as of now). So in conclusion: I would recommend, to always think about your usecase for a lens before buying it and then read reviews and do your research, to make sure, the lens does, what you need it to do. If you want something, that delivers good bokeh and can be shot wide open, maybe wait and save more money bevore spending it on a 100€ nifty-fifty that's really not that great wide open. On the other hand, if you're happy with a cheap, small and light lens that delivers okay results and you mostly shoot stopped down to like f2.8 or f4, then go for the fifty. It'll be a great companion. TL:DR Great Video for beginners, but in my opinion, your advice heavily depends on the lens you own.
Well, I'm in love with my 50mm lenses (Zeiss, Minolta, Sony, Nikon, etc. f1.4 to f2.8, old and new glasses). I use them often wide open. The problems you describe occur on them more or less. The Minolta MD 50mm f2 build 1981 stands out with an excellent performance. On the other hand, the Leica Q, which has a 28mm f1.7 lens, doesn't have problems like that. Wide open is the to go choice for most of the pictures I made. There are of course unsharp areas, but they are smooth and prikle the picture to make them deep. Also high contrast is no problem after opening the DNG files with manufacturer lens profile correction. There might be a chance of a glimp of reason why they are so unbelievable expensive …
I’ve definitely been guilty of using my 50mm at its widest aperture too often, I’ll be sure to change things up a bit more often for some different results!
This was a wonderful demonstration. This is the first video that I have seen from you, I don’t usually subscribe right away but it was your heartfelt thank you in the end that clinched the deal. Subscribed! Looking forward to more! Thank you so much!
I watched this video this morning as it popped up in my recommendation feed so you must be doing something right! Wanted to say thanks as this video inspired me to get out this morning with my 50mm f1.8 Lumix S on the Lumix S5II I'm still learning how to use. There are some videos, some tips, some moments while using the camera which just lead to an epiphany so things start to make sense and fall in to place for me and the way my brain needs to learn. This morning with the 50mm f1.8 out at the beach was one of those learning moments which helped things make sense for me. Using the lens at f2.8, f9 & f11 in manual and adjusting the shutter speed and ISO myself has made me feel a lot better about how I'm getting on with my camera so thanks for this.
I learnt something I was doing wrong for many years now. Always turn your Active D Lighting: OFF it totally messes up the captured pictures making it so dark than seen on the LCD and undermines the true capabilities of the 50 1.8G
I just bought this lens and have been a little disappointed with the results (though I figured it was operator error lol). Thank you so much for the insight! Also, I watched the end and I believe you said you were about to hit 1k subscribers. That was a year ago and today you have 14.k!!! Congratulations!!
Another great video Joshua, keep them coming, and good to see the channel growing. You seem to have had a good few subs in recent days. Been a long while since I’ve had my Nifty-Fifty out, might just we’ll have to go dust it off.
Hello Joshua. I just bought this lens to use with my Rebel T6, and this video helped me a lot. I'm taking it on my next travel, and I was worried I made a bad choice. Thank you.
Thanks Joshua really enjoyed that .. I’m often using my 50 for landscape these days like it around 5.6 and up to 11 , very good results . Just subscribed too .
You reminded your viewers of the number-one principle of any lens you have no matter how much you paid for that lens. Only use extreme apertures when you really need it for a certain effect. Aperture of f/5.6 to f/8.0 will always yield better all around resolution. Anyway a highly blurred background is not always the best way to compose. If necessary move over a bit and find a background that while only reasonably blurred still yields a pleasant effect.
Thank you for these explanations! Very helpful content. I’d love to learn more about how you decide your shutter speed. I noticed it was different in every example but not sure why. Kudos again, great content!
I have the Canon EF 50 mm f/1.8 STM. Other issues: It vignettes at ƒ1.8 and has some purple fringing at ƒ2.8 shooting backlit (although, not really noticeable unless cropped in. This is on full frame. Results could be better on APS-C.
literally just subscribed to your channel, your smashing it !. We've all been victim to the wide aperture blur phase, some of us cant shake it no matter how hard we try lol, keep the videos coming :)
Hello Joshua, the evaluation of a 50 mm lens is only possible in a meaningful way if you also know the sensor size of the camera. It only represents a "normal focal length" in combination with a full-frame camera. On an APS-C camera, the frame is quickly too narrow, because here the 50 mm focal length already reaches into the light telephoto range. This effect is even more pronounced when 50 mm focal length is used on an mft camera. The rule of thumb, according to which the smallest optical aberrations occur at medium apertures ("sweet spot"), applies to practically all focal lengths, not just 50 mm.
Nice vid, Joshua, and thank you. It hadn't occurred to me previously but I've been getting by nicely and dealing with chromatic aberration after the fact in RawTherapee. Still, it makes sense to deal with it while shooting - it can only improve on the final result.
Beautiful scenery where you are! I was looking at maybe buying a new 50mm but at f1.2. I know it's not f1.8 but since I started photography journey I been trying budget lenses and vintage lenses i trying to figure out how to get best the bokeh background out of my lenses. I like your sorta chilled style how you explains subjects in your video! Subed👍🏽
What you said about aperture range holds true in case of using this lens on a full frame body. On aps-c at f/13 effects of diffraction will soften the image even though optically, the lens will be in its sweet spot.
@@garnetklee9837 focal lenght and aperture remain constant regardless of sensor size. Simply 50mm f/1.8 on aps-c will give you filed of view and depth of field like 80mm f/2.9 on full frame. And there is no problem at all. You just need to keep in mind that diffraction on aps-c kicks in around f/8 (equivalent to f/13 on full frame)
I would say on a really good lens, f5.6-8 should be sharper, since diffraction can kick in early. But that would need to be incredibly sharp, like a macro lens, or like a sigma art 50mm 1.4. But you also won't get as much in sharp focus at 5.6 so it depends mostly on context and what you need from the photo.
It could be you and the way you hold camera !!! Most professionals use eye finder because you can steady the camera better , most women use a camera like this (use back screen)...;)
Great video ty first time here and i just subscribed to your chanel, i have one question besides setting the aparture some where in the middle of the Lens, what focus setting do you use and where in the photo you focus to get a complete sharpenes when you shoot land scape? ty
It's not wrong to use it wide open, you're just pushing to it's limit so it doesn't perform it's best. Very expensive lenses are still good at wide apertures.
I’m interested in this lens. I am coming from a Nikon which also made a 50 1.8, but that lens is notorious for using plastic optical elements. Im interested to know if the Canon 50 1.8 is similar or not in that regard?
Canon Canon EF and RF 50 f1.8 STM version has glass elements. Not sure of earlier EF mark 1 and mark II versions. But are you sure you did not buy an immitation Nikon lens? Canon websites teach people how to identify immitation Canon lenses.
Good evening Joshua, again great video and I for one will explore my "nifty fifty's" possibilities more. I have one question, why have you chosen to use the Canon 250D with kit lenses (ef-s 18-55mm & 55-250mm lenses); instead of say the Canon 90D (the latest Canon APS-C camera) or a full frame Canon camera with the "L" professional lenses?
@@TheJoshuaPeg good morning Joshua, thanks for this reply, I appreciate this as it makes it "real" for us beginners, to have someone on RU-vid using the same gear as us to teach us. Keep up the great work. PS: how is the baby, and enjoy being a dad.
I am very curious, are you just going out for a walk and shooting photos? If that is the case, what do you carry in all that 36L of a backpack? Or are you actually walking and camping?
I've got my stills camera, 4 lenses, microphone, waterproof coat, snacks, extra layer for warmth, water, 2 tripods for photography and video, 1st aid kit as I'm usually on my own, spare batteries... The list goes on, but when you're filming and doing photography, it takes a lot of gear 😅
1.8 is such a shallow focal plane as well, especially for portraits. You might get the eyes in focus, but the ears might not. Also 1.8 increases your chances of the camera missing focus.
True it also depends on how close you are to your subject. Taking a few steps back will bring give you a deeper focal plane. That's why macro photography is such a thin plane because your soo close even tho the f stop might be at f22 or more. Also why 85mm or 105mm and 135mm are such good portrait lens you can get loads of bokeh and have your subject fill the frame and be in focus because you have to stand so far back 😆
I frequently shoot portraits at 2.8 with my 50 mm. It sharpens up nicely and you still get nice bokeh in the background. If I use it for landscapes I'm usually anywhere from 5.6 to f8 and its great!
Been using a Canon 50mm 1.8 for the past 5 years. I always saw good photographers avoid extreme apertures, but no one mentioned the loss of sharpness. Wish I knew this earlier. As I browse through all my favourite shots, all I can do is lament :(
@@Crazy_Dashcam_Videos true. Looking at the most famous photos ever taken as well as Looking at lenses of the time. They were for the most part pretty slow by today's standards and rarely shot wide open. But in this days, composition was paid attention to as well as environmental there was not the crutch that there is today on the instagram photo pro to rely on to have a "good" photo. It is a matter of taste but understanding what qualities change throught the range will help anyone to take memorable images.
@@Crazy_Dashcam_Videos So true! I shot on film for sixty years on so many cameras, before going digital, and sure, focus was important, but there wasn't this obsession with edgy sharpness there is today... And I actually liked film grain! So many of the classic shots of photo history are not necessarily super-sharp. They're simply great pictures, for a thousand other reasons. The world of photography has become so nerdy - always the pursuit of better kit... and now the obsession with full-frame cameras that we're all supposed to aspire to. And it's catching! I've recently upgraded from a Nikon D3300, on which I shot great pictures, to a Nikon D7500, and am already wondering if I should change again! But with a bunch of Nikon DX lenses to support it, that would probably be mad. Ha! Got to be strong. Use the tech as a tool to take great pictures, eh? Not become obsessed with tech over photography!
I have always preferred mine at f1.8. Even though I learnt down the road that the sweet spot of a lens is not always the widest it can go, but never really tried that, until I saw your video. You are really an amazing teacher.
Thank You for what you share, I absolutely love your level of Chill in your videos... your relationship to place and comfort with the landscape around you comes across really strong... and also, the breakdown simplicity with which you impart your knowledge of photography keeps me engaged... btw, the Purple Heather shots pretty awesome. Cheers.
Great advice. As an amateur photographer I love the 50mm. I actually use a 35mm on an APS-C for a 50mm full frame equivalent. I agree that just using a lens for its lowest aperture for background blur is a waste. Great advice thanks!
I concur with what you advised . For me a good prime does not have to be faster than 2.8 as I will often shoot between 5.6 and f8 to ensure I have the best sharpness possible and will use a telephoto to blur background and move in closer to achieve that look with a standard lens. However , landscape and portraiture benefit from isolating the background and using a background that creates a three d effect . Finally , using a lens wide open , even on a tripod can still produce an imperfect image if you have not correctly nailed your focus and here, is where the choice of the f stop can nail it every time . Thanks for the video and it is something I think others should address in their videos too. Well done! You nailed it perfectly .
Thanks for taking the time to put this video together. Straight forward and to the point. It's nice to see real world work that can be done on a lens. I found this lens used for ($25 USD !!!)for my street photography/portraits on my APSC and am excited to utilize these techniques. I realize it'll be 80mm roughly. I'm normally a wildlife shooter, but love all photography. Thanks as well for being humble on the end of this video and not just fishing for subs. Be well.
So glad to find your channel - it is refreshing to hear and watch someone who operates at human speed, not in a rush on a coke bender like so many folks on the youtubes!
Great advice. Also when you get a new lens pick a couple of good subjects far and near and photograph them from the same spot at all apertures. Then study them and work out the idiosyncrasies and the best apertures for that lens and the the type of subject you are shooting.
Many non professional and beginner photographers get an expensive camera body and lower quality lenses. It should be the other way round: buy the best lenses and then a body, you can afford. It's the lens, that does matter. My advice to beginners is, to buy a high quality 50 mm / f. 1.4 - 2.0 and a camera body without too many features. If they get familiar with this simple set, they can always add more lenses like a 24 and 90 mm. It's a good combo, if you're not shooting birds, macro, sport etc. But you're right saying full aperture isn't easy to handle always and to step down to 2.8 or 4.0 will give better results in landscape photography. Keep on rolling!
