Are you tuning your skis? It makes it way better! 

Thank you both so much. Great information delivered by two absolute gentlemen.

Absolutely AWESOME info sharing...I'm sold and on board...thx guys !!!!!

Such a great chat. Hugely informative.

I'm an old timer that learned to ski when edges were screwed into the ski and you had to make sure the screw heads were not protruding above the base. I have collected many ski tuning tools over the years and have compared my tools to the Sidecut Tuning catalog. One essential item that is missing from your catalog is Base Prep wax. With a new pair of skis I iron in Base Prep Wax and remove it several times. The wax will pull up impurities and also condense the base so it doesn't expand or shrink the P-tex. The new Wintersteiger fully adjustable grinding machine that is only available at Vail Ski Club and the U.S. Ski Team Park City wax rooms (not available to the public) is the future of base/edge maintenance. However, not being a competitive skier anymore there are ways to tune without very expensive tools. First off, high quality sandpaper with a true edge or straight file holding the sandpaper will give linear structure to the base. However, you must clean the base thoroughly to get the p-tex "strings" and cutting material fragments from the sandpaper out. The cross hatch pattern which some skiers prefer can't be made with this method. I also find a fresh base grind unless it comes from a really good grinder is usually too deep. Using various grit sizes of sandpaper will get you appropriate depth you desire in a linear pattern. If you use a solvent based cleaner it will dissolve the new eco friendly waxes. Using alcohol to clean will get rid of the dirt, metal fragments, etc. will lift the impurities without dissolving the wax. I have never used a file with a base bevel guide. I use thin piece of tape (Toko makes a good tape) to either hide the edge from sandpaper or expose the edge for using sanding/grinding to bevel the edge. I have been tuning for a long time and using a straight edge flashlight/sunlight and a marker check my work. The shine given off the edge and then narrow light are calibrated in my eyeballs to know what is right. Chris a product you can offer that I have never seen anywhere is a solid piece of stainless steel that is the whole file holder, and not just the running surface. You can put in a small channel to get rid of filings, just like the slots that all file holders use. A long time ago I had a friend of mine to CNC cut and grind an 88 degree piece of solid billeted 304 stainless. I still use this and it is fixed at 88 degree and doesn't show any wear after using chrome files and diamond stones for years. The only improvement that could be made is to cut a couple of small channels across where the file is clamped on, with a special steel alloy that is tig welded. I can't remember the alloy but mig welders run beads of this steel alloy along heavy equipment (i.e. bulldozers, etc.) surfaces that are exposed to rock and other hard materials to stop premature wear. BTW...I don't use a screw and disk/knob type mechanism like Sidecut Tuning, or SWIX, and some other manufacturers use. I have even used clamps used to hold paper when I misplaced my other clamps and they work just fine. The wax you are using has nano particles. I have to question this decision as nano particle pollution that doesn't go away and becomes forever material is a real problem in our environment. I would hope that there is some process to break down these nano particles.

Music and ski tuning. Rest for the soul

appreciated the info contained; like many podcast style interviews, can't say I enjoy the fluency of the interview, I suppose that's why there are journalism/communications degrees. Several points relate so much to other "equipment" reliant sports I coach, and also to playing musical instruments. Equipment actually being the biggest factor, along with efficient coaching, in why beginners are struggling and having less fun. Trying not to look "too professional", or "trying too hard" because tuning, or customising, is under the misconception it is for when you're good. Along with building tactical awareness (eg where and when to hit; or learning about ski lines), I ask the question: do you use sports science/medicine when you become a champion, or to become one? Same for equipment reducing injuries, which also has to increase fun.

nice talk, greeting from chile

Hi Tom, around the 33 minute mark, you mention you are going to go and ski your new skis (with their factory tune) and then make some adjustments to them. What was your impression of your skis before and after you tuned them?

Hi Tom, can you please make a video telling us how to and where exactly one must screw the bindings on the ski? it would be a great help.

Sorry it's i just missed it, but what are the grind numbers that help a ski turn easier and not be grabby? I'm an intermediate and learning to tune myself. Should I be looking at something like a 0.5° base bevel and 89° side bevel?