Arrma Vorteks Mods 

Glad to help!

I'm glad we could help. We found out that stock, straight out of the box, the Vorteks flies better than many others and is really tough. However, I would refrain from landing it on asphalt or concrete, nothing holds up to that for long. Thanks for the comment. AJ

Glad I could help

Glad I could help 😎👍

I’m glad we can help 😎👍

Thank you! 😎👍

Awesome 😎👍

Thanks for the sub!

Glad you liked it!

Will do. Thanks 😎👍

Thank you. We are glad to help. 😎👍

Thank you. I'm glad your switch is working well. AJ

what wide do you add it to ?

My spur gear stripped on the second run! Definitely going to upgrade to the metal one

Thank you 😎👍

Sounds like you’re on top of things. Right on. 😎👍

Good to know. Thanks. 😎👍

Welcome aboard!

I have just purchased my first car too so I'm new too

I came for the vorteks... cool chanel but what happened to the vorteks?

After spending years working in a machine shop, I've learned sealed bearings are not waterproof. In fact the seals are only designed to keep out debris. That being said, spraying lube, especially the kind that is thin and foams, does work its way inside the bearings. I'm not trying to sound like a smart @*$, but this much I "do" know, and from first hand experience. So, if you let your RC sit in a puddle for just a short time, the bearings, sealed or not, will take on water. And then, as you spin the bearings you can actually hear the lube smoothing out the bearing's function. It's a common misconception since they call them sealed, but they are not 100% sealed. And one other thing about these devices, the seals actually cause a slight bit of drag on the internals while the vehicle is under power. The contact with the race, even though it's just the seal, does have a bit of resistance. Now, it's not a substantial amount, but the drag is there. I hope this helps, and...thanks for the comment. AJ

@@AJJAMStudios I appreciate the info however I'm a professional mechanic with over 30 years of experience so I'm fairly familiar with bearings. Yes I do know that things can get into the bearings from the outside. How much depends greatly on the quality of the bearings. High quality sealed bearings are pretty well sealed and that seal gets worse as the bearing quality goes down usually. That being said I've never experienced being able to spray something on the outside of a bearing and have it make an appreciable difference to the lubricity of the inside of the bearing. But all of our experiences are different so what works for you works :-)

I'm not sure which size I have in mine, but you should be able to check your temps and tell that way. If you're running cool, you can add teeth to your pinion. If you're running hot, drop a tooth or two. Sorry I couldn't be more precise. I hope this helps. AJ

I'm unsure of the exact size. Our local hobby shop has the stuff on rolls and I simply sized the line to fit and bought that. Wish I had a better answer for you.

@@AJJAMStudios no problem at all. Thanks for replying.

I'm glad you know what Stego tape is designed for. As for the shock oils we use, we use Associated's oils and Traxxas oils. Both work well and we've had no issues with either. Thanks for asking. 😎👍

The pinion change should improve the run time, but I think the improvement would be negligible. And, not that I am aware of on the shock question. I’m sure someone builds a shock kit for it, but I haven’t seen one yet. Thanks for asking. 😎👍

My local hobby shop carries it. It’s just RC fuel line. 😎👍

What's tha correct name of it an can I get it from EBay or amazon?

Silicone fuel line. RC planes or cars.

Appreciate you Salute Peace and blessings

Right back at ya. Bash on. AJ

Personally I prefer the stock ones. The aluminum ones have issues with heat and friction. The aluminum has a tendency to scar and fail when the clutch slips a lot. If you set it tight it may work but if you loosen it up for better control the clutch heats up and the aluminum plate falls apart. That’s my experience with them. If you find it works out well for you, let us know. Thanks for asking 😎👍

I pick up a couple bottles. Then you have a bit extra in case of repairs.

Yes. 😎👍

Hi AJ, i believe stock is 40w why did you decide to go lighter? Typically watching vids on shocks people normally go heavier?

On EBay, search Vorteks big bore shocks. They will pop up there. Loads to choose from. 👍

It is fuel tubing for the nitro RC rigs, available at your local hobby shop. Thanks for asking. AJ

@@AJJAMStudios good info

They sell different shocks for each RC. the Vorteks has different length shocks than the Typhon. Search your RC type on eBay and punch in big bore shocks. This will take you right to them.

Nope

All the time. I got the cvd drive shafts and pumped 10 batteries thru it and no issues since.

No. The chassis slaps when it hits the ground. Thanks for asking. AJ

None we've come across. Ours is still rockin' with no issues. Tough little bugger. However, driving style may play a roll in durability. Best of luck. 😎👍

Had my 2 for month now and they are pretty tough, broke a shock at skatepark and servo just hard running so far.

@@Hoosierdaddyjones812 the servo is a very poor one actually on these, however it can be easily upgraded to a 10kg one and that should do

@@bukshyrecording2448 they are crap otb both mine took shits in like 6 to 7 runs with em. Since I've replaced em been great trucks tho

Good info. Thank you😎👍

So far we haven't had to upgrade our Typhon. Our Senton 3s has several mods that are platform wide for the 3s cars from Arrma. Perhaps you should check that video out and see what we did to it? Be warned, the 3s cars do have issues with gravel getting stuck in the steering, but that's a minor thing. Dirt, good to go. Pavement, although handling suffers a bit with the slipper setup and no center diff, they still are impressive none the less.

It is silicone fuel tubing for my 1/10th scale nitro trucks. It is available at your local hobby shop.

One more thing what spray lubricant spray is that ur using on ball barrings?

Blaster silicone lube. But most silicone lubes should work.

I’m sorry I’m meaning the blaster spray I see on the can of ur video u were spraying the metal barring I’m wondering where to get the from an the full name of it if possible appreciate you Salute

AutoZone (where I get it). Blaster silicone spray (what it is). Good luck. 👍

It's hard to say because I did not see you build it. However, the metal gear is the same as the stock plastic one in size, so there should be no binding issues. I would back track and see if you accidentally installed something in the wrong location.

@@AJJAMStudios thanks AJ i did add an extra slipper pad on the side with 1, as others suggest with the arrma metal you need 2. would you know any different. i know you used HR. maybe this is the issue?

Perhaps 👍

Yes. Metal on metal will always wear. But the metal spur gear is stronger and doesn’t strip out, providing your gap is set correctly. 😎👍

That's funny. We never noticed that. Thanks for sharing. 😎👍

Search big bore shocks for Arrma Vorteks, on eBay. You’ll find them 😎👍

No.

It comes down to shock fluid. We set our rig up with light fluid to get a bit more rough terrain traction and control which unfortunately lacks some control when jumping. You are not wrong, our Vorteks does bounce upon landing, but it handles way better during standard bashing when jumps are not a thing. It really does come down to your choice of bashing locations, what you plan to do with your car, the weight of your car, and your choice of shock fluid. Thanks for commenting. 😎👍

@@AJJAMStudios I see. That makes sense actually. I don’t jump my RCs too much and when I do it’s NEVER too high. Bashing is my favorite thing to do with my ground RCs, just not destroying them while jumping lol. Thank you for responding BTW, I appreciate it and I enjoy your channel.

I understand. We here like both, on ground and flying the cars. The upside for us is, we love the rebuild process and so breaking a thing or two is all part of what we love about the hobby. Like I've said before, if I bring all the cars back unbroken...I haven't been pushing them hard enough. It's silly I know, but casual footage can be very boring to watch. I'm glad you like the content and look forward to hearing from you in the future. AJ

That is discussed in the video. Thanks.

@@AJJAMStudios Could have been nice to add that to the description?

When you re - bound your receiver, did you have all of your settings centered? When installing a new ESC, a bind is necessary to get your settings all in line. I hope this helps. 😎👍

I'm running a 3s Ovonic 5000mha battery that runs at 50c. Tell me, is your car binding at all?

@@AJJAMStudios binding?

Resistance when the wheels rotate. Loosen the motor and spin the wheels. If they don’t spin freely your car is binding up.

@@AJJAMStudios how do I loosen motor to try that?

You can pull the center driveline and spin the front tires. But you’ll have to pull the motor mount to check the back. It is easy enough, once you’ve done it a time or two. Check my mods video for how that’s done. If things spin freely you might have a weak battery. It is a process of elimination.

I was aware the shocks were long, but for my application they work just fine, plus you can shim them to the length you want by adding an inner spacer to take up the difference and yet, the car still can bottom out at full compression; it's a lot of work to do, but it is still possible. The thing is, I "want" it to have more reach with the arms. We hit the ramps with this one quite a bit and I think it helps, plus it controls just fine for us here. However, I will definitely look into the others. Thanks for the tip. 😎👍

@@AJJAMStudios Once you put on longer shocks, the Vorteks loses all the advantages that make it a Vorteks. Low LCG, great on the ground handling, etc. Now you have a Granite, except it rolls more easily and doesn’t have the wheel mass to stunt like a Granite. Better to just get a Granite. You paid a premium for the Vorteks, then changed it from the best handling 3s Arrma to the worst handling. Now it doesn’t do anything as well as other 3s models can.

Not true. Our Granite handles way worse than the Vorteks, It doesn't jump nearly as well. It isn't as fast or controllable, and it tumbles a lot more. The Vorteks, set up our way, jumps better, longer, and better than most of our 10th scale RC's. We've proven this. It's fine if you don't like the idea of modifying the suspension in such a way but this works for us. Thanks for commenting.

​​@@tyrellcorp2118ou are wrong. You want the longest shocks on the Vorteks that will fit because the trucks stance out of the box is too low. It makes the truck sluggish and prone to drift. The factory shocks aren't even shocks they are just dampers.

I ordered HR 90mm ones....because I saw comments like yours✊👍thanks!

Lol. I didn’t realize I was doing that. I got a good laugh off of that. Thanks for the comment. 😎👍

So, only one way to set up an RC? Does it matter that AJs way handles awesome for him? We always say, if it works for you you’re not wrong. And by the way, most of our viewers and not kids. Studio team.