Ok wow. I feel silly to say this but, the red line graphics are so helpful! Makes what and where to cut so much clearer. Thank you for the informative video.
@@thenewsone9276 in nature most trees grow in forested areas where they are competing with other trees for sunlight. The taller trees prevent lower branches from getting enough sunlight which indicates to the tree it needs to grow taller. In unnatural settings trees usually are not competing for sunlight. So those lower branches get a ton of sunlight. Without that competition the tree puts less energy into growing up, and grows out instead. We also have to remember biologically there is no such thing as a tree. The tree in your backyard may be more closely related to a small plant in your front yard then the tree next to it. A tree is nothing more than a bush that has grown tall.
It's unsightly with no leaves, but I would leave it for another 2 years to see what it does. It's already angling up a bit and with the two competing leaders that were removed, this ugly branch and the main leader will both be getting more energy and nutrients in the coming years. I would watch that ugly branch and see if it begins to angle up more, hopefully it reaches 60-degrees or so. If not, I would cut it off in 2-4 years. Thoughts?
Why would natural selection have failed so badly that a human has to go in and remove competing branches? What benefit do competing branches have (note: they must have some benefit, but what is it?). I'm confused by the need for pruning at all.
I was curious about that too when I read your comment. So, I did some digging. Here's a quick summary if you're interested: TL;DR: Natural selection hasn't failed; it's designed for survival, not perfection. Some branches naturally die off - that's nature's own “pruning” in action. When we prune a bit earlier, we're helping the tree focus its energy on the branches we want to see thrive. This can lead to better shade, easier fruit picking, and, when it comes to bonsai, it's not just the branches getting a trim; the roots do too. Beyond aesthetics, pruning helps manage space, boost airflow, and prevent branches from getting tangled up, which can help fend off diseases in the long run.
““I am the true vine, and My Father is the vinedresser. Every branch in Me that does not bear fruit He takes away; and every branch that bears fruit He prunes, that it may bear more fruit. You are already clean because of the word which I have spoken to you. Abide in Me, and I in you. As the branch cannot bear fruit of itself, unless it abides in the vine, neither can you, unless you abide in Me.” John 15:1-4
first remove all the Crossing, rubbing, dead branches over one inch in size since they are the easiest choices. Don't worry about the most obvious removals under 1 in nor cleaning up short Stubbs remaining from Little branches that snapped off as such nitpicking robs us of limited time better spent after more important stuff prioritized. Redirecting Crossing branches by subordinating back to an earlier divide rather than immediate complete removal back to main stem temporarily retains more options. Similar to dressing warm for an outdoor event by wearing multiple layers of clothing you can always take off later rather than not bringing enough if it suddenly gets colder. Once completing this 1st stage by getting rid of what had to be removed anyways without using up a lotion of time to siding. Get you that much closer to being finished and making remaining decisions much easier.
Some good points were made in this video. He missed an opportunity to cut back that lowest branch with a reduction cut 2 stunts that branch prior to removal another year. That was a bad Branch as he called it. It is attached to the trunk with a bark inclusion that will eventually split the tree if nothing else kills the tree first.
Just started as an arborist groundsman with a company in Georgia. I'm new and got asked to do a prune on 4 small trees. I got the job done, and client was satisfied, but I would've been way more confident had I watched this video before!
Remember the old adage that a bad haircut grows back but a bad tree cut is forever. You should have had proper pruning experience and training before someone was charged hard-earned money for your inexperienced service. The Firm that you are working for is responsible for that indiscretion, not you. The best place to learn about trees is the forest.
I am pleased that you are getting guidance. No matter where I go , whether in this country or anywhere in the world , I see lousy pruning. Most pruning is bad pruning with many heading cuts, most of which are not targeted heading cuts. Most pruning is over pruning. Like a good haircut no one should notice a good pruning except those intimately familiar with that tree. Guidance from knowledgeable, caring people is great but walking through the forest is the best way to learn if you are able to take your cues from Mother Nature! I wish you well on your journey to be an arborist!
Just took a look at my tree out front that hasn’t been cut or when it has, previous owner did it poorly. So many competing branches out there…probably have to do this over a couple of years to not weaken or kill the tree.
What would happen if he lopped that central leader out and the branch immediately to the right of it? would it make a super cool shaped multi-trunk looking tree... or just make the tree heavier on one side and either break or lean one one side?
My guess if he has luck like mine, he’ll get a zillion water sprouts out of the middle and it will just be a mess of branches & leaves that will be completely impossible to correct.
It’s called stewardship. Progress not perfection. Symbiotic relationship in the right way can be helpful. It’s all connected. Doesn’t have to be perfect . But we can be helpful at times. Like helping a tree recover from a bad tree owner(caretaker). Humans are world eaters. So we few need to combat toxic human oversights.
Oh gosh, few years ago I did such a terrible job on my new purchased fruit trees, (now I know when they are barely planted they shouldn't even be pruned) because I did not understand correctly the logic of pruning that now Im embarrassed to look at them, poor things , is any way to fix them now, after I cut them off wrongly and they are growing up crooked and unbalanced? Oh and all them them have deep wounds from bunnies chewing their tender bark and deer constantly eating their branches while they were young. How to fix that also? Now i put a fence against deer, but bunnies still have access in my backyard. Also I noticed that some trees are more forgiving to mistakes like cherry trees, they even giving fruit this year, but the peach trees are more sensitive and died and gave parasitic shoots. Have no idea if I should just dig them up. The apple trees forgave my mistakes too, they grow robust not fruit yet.
The central leader of my ornamental plum is dead with four similar diameter competing leaders seemingly healthy. Should I eliminate the central leader ?
I'm here because I went full on Edward Scissorhands on my Dad's landscape trees to "help" and lets just say I harmed more than heleped.I could use some education. 😬 *Hangs head in shame and takes a seat*
"Competing branches" has taught me so much. Thank you. I now understand that its not necessary to go to war with all of the branches that I feel like. 😕
Thank you, very informative. From the UK here, every time I prune my trees, apple pear, plumb, morello cherry and grape vines, the produce little or no fruit on that year. Every time I do not prune them, they produce loads of fruits!! Hopefully with your suggestions, I'll better this year. Frustrating, and years are passing by.
My reasoning would be that after trimming the upper branches, and then trimming that lower right branch would mean you've trimmed more than 25% of the tree. You never want to trim more than 25% of the tree in one given year.
best video i've found over a couple hours b/c u took the time to draw lines clearly identifying the limbs as well as really breaking down how to even identify which to snip
@@84kugrad I believe the answer to why that branch wasn't trimmed is because you do not want to cut more than 25% of a tree's branches in any given 2-3 years, and only 10-15% with some species.
5 лет назад
I have a question, what about cutting dominant branch of peer tree (a few feet of very top)? I heard that this action can damage whole tree.
On that competing leader or trunk at the bottom right, what should be done? Should it be left in place or removed? I have a similar situation with a 5 year old red maple and don't know if I should leave it alone or cut it back.
My main deciding factor with that branch is that removing it would be above the 25% recommended max you should remove from a tree at any given time. That is in addition to the other branches already removed. If removing your secondary leader wouldn't be above 25% of the tree I would cut it. Red maples don't do well with multiple leaders and the tree is still young enough to thrive after the cut.
Yeah my sago palms starting to grow a second head, if you will consequently both are growing out sideways which I don’t like. It’s about 10 or 12 years old. can I cut one off so it keeps growing straight?
Takes a loooong time. Most of these saws have "tri-cut" teeth that are super durable. A tri-cut tooth saw cuts on the push AND the pull so you're essentially reducing the wear by 1/2 as compared to a saw that cuts only in one direction.
I just got some trees from my city for arbor day. Unfortunately, I live in a place that, while I need shade trees and some privacy trees, I am not allowed to grow them to their full heights. I need to keep them 20' of under (8- 10' is actually preferred). I would like to know a way that won't cost a fortune, but will be effective to keep them on the small side, though I know they are supposed to grow bigger (I was hoping to get Mimosa trees, but they did not have any). I have Elderberry (they could not tell me if they were trees or bushes, pecan trees, oak willow, pin oak, yellow poplar, shortleaf pines, mulberry and a sycamore tree as well as button and indigo bushes.... I plan to give some a way. But I am trying to figure out what I can do with these trees and what I need them to do: be some shade to block sun from windows and create some privacy from nosey neighbors who are far too close to me. And pay waaay too much attention. Can anyone please advise? I am thinking the pecan trees might be small enough, but not sure. Thank you in advance.
I have tons of mimosa beans once those are planted they hate being transplanted even from a pot to the ground they're a sensitive tree to mess with I like those trees because the leaves fold shut for night time. That place always sends tree's that i either have or can get anytime from friends They didn't send my Carolina spice bush trees my mom bought those ones hers wouldn't grow out mine did and a crab apple tree to so I've gotta dig um up and give her some back i don't need a crab apple tree anyway i just need to keep one spice bush tree Now I don't know what type of spruce tree's those are they sent us free but I can grow them i have the space to they're all in pots outside for now though and in regular yard dirt no potting soil i can tell they're not Norway spruce
The birds gave me a few elderberry trees so now they're growing with all the others They also left me a green Japanese barberry seedling the green ones though aren't my favorite i also use to have the native barberry bushes to Indiana but the deer kept eating on them until they died so I now have all Japanese barberry bushes an they're useful to There's a few more I'm missing a male holly tree
Can "surgery" be done on a tree to cut out something that shouldn't be there? I have a fruit tree where its plastic tag from the nursery has now wedged into the bark of the tree or actually between two branches that have grown over part of it. Weeds growing around the tree have prevented me from noticing it until this late date. It looks a little like the tree in this video but on a much smaller scale. It is just about 7-8 feet tall and the tag is stuck and wedged in between where two main leader branches begin about 6 inches off the ground. The tree only has leaves on about 25% of the branches. We had a late deep freeze this spring after extended periods of warm weather where the peach , plum and asian pears were all in bloom which killed 99 percent of the fruit which might have had an impact but I'm concerned about this tag hurting the tree. Any suggestions? I'm in northwest SC zone 8a.
Good evening, greetings from Siirt, Turkey. Could you write about the practices in the USA regarding pistachio care, especially what method do you use regarding pruning?
Greetings from rural NE California. I have been an arborist since the '80s. The first thing I like to emphasize to someone learning trees is Proper Cuts when pruning. And leaving NO STUBS. Second to that -- how to choose what errant branches need attention. I was glad to see you go back and finish that last cut. People could see that stub being removed and fall away. For a very quick lesson I like your A B C'S. Thanks for a good video. Well aimed at the arbor newbie.
@@larsonfamilyhouse ERRANT BRANCHES: Just a term I used for branches that need to be pruned off. (Not arborist nomenclature, I admit.) The basic list -- •Remove dead wood •Branches must not cross or rub. Remove the weakest or most unattractive branch. •Remove branches growing the wrong direction. Usually -inward -downward -shooting up in a bad place •Broken •Crowding •Suckers & Watersprouts •Old stubs •Tight V crotches invite future trouble. As they grow and increase in diameter, they often split the wood because they push hard on eachother. Try to make a wise choice about which one to remove. Ideal tree crotches are near 90° angle or a U shaped crotch.
Trees are most interesting. In Phoenix Arizona, root development and foliage shading of the trunk and lower crotch sections are critical, especially with new plantings. If a tree had a brain it would be at the base of the trunk. They have a sort of nervous system but it’s run by moisture thought capillary systems that supply the upper structure. Why do trees produce suckers in seemingly unlikely places? I think it’s about promoting capillary circulation and leaf spread to promote more photosynthesis, or it may be a survival policy with immature trees, trying to survive into maturity. Like a man’s beard, bark comes with maturity.
My oak acorns have just sprouted. Will be planting them in a open area with no traffic and no competing trees. Do I need to prune them right away so they don’t split in to a V? Or wait a few years and just prune the competing leaders like in this vid?? Thanx.
So I’m very new to gardening and pruning. I was told I should use some sort of sealant when pruning branches bigger than my thumb. Is this true? When should a sealant be used or should I use one at all? Any help is appreciated!
Just make sure it’s going to be sunny like for 5 days at least after pruning, the more sunny days after pruning the better! That’s the best way disease won’t set in.
I'm about to prune a three-year old oak in my front yard for the first time. It's the first week in December, and it still has dead leaves on it. Is it okay to remove those leaves before I prune? Thanks.
I have a 4 year old live oak and it has several branches drooping over at the top. They are branching out from the main but if I remove them it will look awkward. Wish I could send you a pic for advice.
My new house has an old ornamental tree, heart shaped leaves and flat seed pods. It’s full of water sprouts and crossing branches, but the big problem is the main leader has split and then healed just over half way up. Those two branches make up most of the crown. I am not sure at all where to go with this choked up tree.
Good points BUT before the ABC plan a little technique on just how to make the cut would be good and just as , if not more , important to know . (search this if you do not already know)
I have a 15 year old Ginko tree growing in my front yard. I unfortunately wasn’t paying attention and it now has three long branches at the top wanting to be the leader. Unfortunately none of them is going up straight in a distinct “leader way”, they are more like three branches going up in a “vase” shape. Can it safely continue to grow this way? What should I do?
Thanks for the video I wanted to know is it okay if I use a electric chainsaw or gas chainsaw when pruning. Also when's the best time of the year to prun a tree?
Hi Joe, It's best to prune trees when they are dormant, generally in the fall season. We encourage using a handsaw and to steer clear of electric chainsaws, as it can be easy to get carried away with them and over prune. Learn more pruning do's and dont's here arbordayblog.org/treecare/arborist-advice-prune-trees-dormant-season/
Why not have gone for the branch that's perpendicular to the main trunk that was nearly over the presenter's head most of the talk, or appears that way in this vid. I just heard thru the local pruner's grapevine that branches on such a flat angle wont support the tree into large mature growth?
