Have a drafty indoor attic hatch in your home? Learn from Energy Advisor Brian Hawk how to best seal it to improve energy efficiency and overall comfort in your home.
Thanks for the instructions! I followed what you said and it's making my home more comfortable during the summer. I guess a lot of the cool air was sort of escaping out into the attic. It seems like it really helped a lot and it only took me one afternoon to do it.
@@NobleREMC Me too. What happened is I bought a thermal imaging monocular to view wildlife. Out of curiosity, I started looking at things in my home. I was shocked to find out that my attic hatch was dramatically cooler than the rest of my ceiling so I decided to fix it. :-)
Although you don't need to seal your garage attic hatch from an energy perspective, garages get very humid from vehicles bringing in snow and rain. Without a good seal, that warm, moist air can cause a lot of moisture damage and mould in the attic space.
You may also want to wear a mask. There will be particles floating around. Especially when you open the hatch but also when it is open. The air is gonna be flowing!
Can some one please address the settling effect of cellulose please? I had 10 plus inches of cellulose blown in several years ago. Went up recently to install security cams. All of that cellulose has sank to the rafter tops. As in it's ALL GONE. Cellulose is a waste of money. It settles over time. Like you just tossed all that cash out the window. At least pink panther fiberglass stays put.
Okay this may sound stupid, your the engery advisor. So heres my question : Thinking of me aging and over head strength in future. On the back of the board could I staple a extra large pillow case, that over lapse the size of door so covers over door edges, as i lift up on the door now to enter the attic, fill it with blown in cellulose, velcro shut so can refill as needed. Lol do you think it would work ? As my logic says it should, BUT doesn't mean it right :(
Interesting idea, Kathy. You made my morning…and now I want to test it out for myself. First, the main thing is to make sure your hatch is air sealed with caulk and weather stripping - that will go the longest way in stopping that air flow. After that, I think your theory about the pillowcase is sound. My concern is the pillowcase holding an adequate amount of insulation. If you can achieve the amount of cellulose recommended for your climate zone inside of a pillow case and still seal it, give it a shot, but be cautious not to let your pillowcase interfere with the seal on the bottom side of your attic hatch. Thank you for your thoughtful question!
@@NobleREMC Thats what I wanted to hear, I will ensure the pillowcase (xxl or homemade if need be) is centered and it over lapse the door completely, as door just rests ontop of the floor openning presently. Thanks for your advice, thoughts.
Energy audits are free for Noble REMC members! You simply need to call our office to schedule a time and date. If you are not a Noble REMC member, I would recommend calling your electric utility and seeing what services they provide. Thanks!
Make sure it's a closed-cell foam or otherwise makes a good air seal. As a home inspector, I have seen countless attics "sealed" with open-celled foam, which is absolutely worthless. It's worse than having nothing at all since it actually creates a channel for air to escape into your attic space! The ones @NobleREMC suggested are the best.
If you are in an open area on a windy day, there is the potential for a significant amount of pressure on your home. Putting foam on top of the hatch, like we showed in this video, should weigh it down enough to combat any pressure change issues.
Unfortunately, if you’re in an apartment situation, my guess is you’re getting the secondhand smoke coming through your bath fan exhaust rather than your attic hatch. It’s not uncommon for multi-family units to have shared bath fan exhaust lines to a single point of exit out of a building. This is an issue you would want to address with your landlord or property manager.
@@NobleREMC I get it through both my bathroom exhaust and my utility closet where my hatch is located. I’ve spoken with HOA and the owners of the condo below that rent to my neighbors and they won’t help :(
Hey Brandon! If you are building a high-performance home, you should already have mechanical ventilation factored into the construction. If you are performing a retrofit on an existing home, you will more than likely have enough natural air changes per hour to eliminate the need for mechanical ventilation.
@@Brandon-no3vc preexisting homes are usually pretty leaky. Blower Door test can determine the tightness of the home and to find out how many air changes per hour your home typically has. Plus you don't really want the air from your attic or crawlspace to come in the home if it can be helped.
@@michaelholland1310 that's why I said if your attic and crawlspace is air sealed wich it should be. Do you have a vid on how to do a blower door test?
Very carefully. 😉 Though the space looks cramped, the homeowner can access the attic by placing a ladder underneath and climbing up. If needed, the shelf unit could also be removed for a contractor.
Also, attic Air isn't really "fresh" air. It can also make homes more humid so the indoor air quality is worse. As long as there's still enough airflow in the home there shouldn't be an issue or need to purchase mechanical ventilation.
Even air sealing as much as you can still leaves a lot of air filtration thru the walls and windows. If you can get down to 2 ACH you are doing great but still have a lot of air filtration.
