I run 215/50 on 17s for my winter setup on mk7 golf r. Tire rack did recommend 45 series tires but I was glad I went with the 50s. I think the overall diameter was exactly the same as OEM. If I went with the 45s it would have been 1.1 inches smaller than OEM.
I ran Solowerks for a bit, for the money, they are incredibly good, and the company support is great as well. However, I was offered a set of new KW Variant 3’s for too good of a price to pass up so I went with those. Literally went from $500-600 coils to $2500 coils. There is a clear difference in the way the car feels. It’s super controlled, firm but comfortable, and the adjustability is amazing. For those who can fork over the $ for the high end coils, don’t think twice. The solowerks were still an amazing product and value though.
Did they ever had a problem ? I’ve heard mixed reviews about them lasting a long time or not lasting even 5000 miles, I’ve thinking about them because I mostly want the looks and not sacrifice the Comfort, so if I can get that from them I don’t see why paying more for the same or even stiffer coilovers
Question: "I have a squeal noise coming from my MK6 GTI engine. Can you tell me what this is?" I had this exact problem and noise. It was my exhaust manifold leaking. Check near the studs/nuts and look for carbon soot.
Great vids Paul, I have a question: I started to recently attend track days with my new MK7 Golf R. I would like to know what a moderate upgrade to OEM pads/fluid would be. Not really concerned about dust, but would like to retain as much pad + rotor life as the OEM setup. Any advice?
I have ACC on my 2012 golf r what would you suggest for coilovers? i like the ACC, would you suggest just keep it as it is? i would like to go a bit lower.
Question: I have a 2008 Audi TT 2.0 FSI. I recently installed the forge performance air hoses and throttle body hose along with the neuspeed mass air flow pipe. While revving high, my engine will sometimes die (stutters, seems like it might not be getting enough fuel?). I still have factory turbo discharge pipe but everything else for my intake system is aftermarket. Just trying to figure out why it is doing this and if it's a more severe issue. But love your channel and videos! I've learned a lot from watching. Thanks for your time.
I’d like to improve the handling characteristics of my car but keep it streetable so I don’t plan to lower it much,what if anything can I do to correct steering geometry to factory specs?
RobbRobb thanks I understand the performance benefits from going with a quality coilover set up and believe me I intend to but this doesn’t really answer my question as to how to correct steering geometry or what is considered acceptable tolerances from factory steering specs in reference to the amount of drop.when I lowered my mustang I used a bumpsteer kit to get the steering back in spec
Would you recommend a high quality lowering springs over a low priced coil overs (since they almost fall in the same price category) ? Don't want the ride quality to be horrible
Question: I just got my new 2016 GTI S a couple weeks ago and I'm getting this weird thing with my clutch where it feels like its sticking for a split second midway if I drop the clutch. I'm just wondering if this is normal or not? I can't feel it if i drive normally, only if I drop the clutch. I'm used to my old F150 with a relatively heavy clutch and when I dump it, it's a constant rate of clutch release. Any insight would be helpful, thanks.
This is due to two things. Firstly VW has a flow restrictor in the bleeder valve of the clutch hydraulic system. This slows down how quick the fluid can travel so when you release the clutch fast it won't keep up with your foot. There is a very easy mod you can do to remove the restrictor detailed here: www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14745 Alternatively you can purchase ECS Tuning's bleeder block to replace the standard one instead if you prefer. Second cause of this issue is due to a spring behind the clutch pedal that is there to make it less heavy to depress. It only marginally helps making the pedal lighter but has the effect of slowing down how quick the pedal returns to its resting position. It takes next to no time to remove it and people have had good results as you can see here: www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21157 Hope this helps!
Kurt Phillips Thank you! after I've driven the car more and more I figured it wasn't broken but I didn't know exactly what it was. Thank you so much for your help!
Solid but they do wear out rather quickly... get their top end if you want them to last. Their struts are the same way spend on the good ones and it's a once in a 6-10 year job unless you beat the piss outta them.
For someone that represents a company and has a such an expansive knowledge of automobiles your choice of words and vocabulary is horrible. “Cheap” And “Low-end” is not a word I would use to represent the products you sell. You might want to use “entry-level” as a substitute. Just my 2¢, I don’t mean to offend. Other than that these vids are helpful.
