I have watched this video a few times and read all your explanations a couple of times and eventually could understand it, for the first time I could make sense. There was no other video on youtube to explain this as good as this video. Really high-value video.
At the three minute mark, why did you use the rebated edge of the offcut to mark one side and the the un rebated edge to mark the other? Wouldn’t that make the jamb sit past inside the dimensions reserved for the clearance?
How do you determine depth of the jamb (material width to use)? Equal to the depth of the stud wall plus the thickness of the intended wall coverings? More? Less?
G'day mate, sorry for the randon question for doors. How in the hell do I determine what is a left hand hung door or a right hand hung door. I'm confused by the websites I've viewed. Appreciate any help.
Hi Mate, this might help www.constructiondictionary.com.au/term/right-hand-door or this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ccUHt7_veOc.html
Hi Susan, Standard doors in Australia are 2040m high and have stock sizes of 620, 670, 720, 770 and 820 wide. Most Standard door jamb have widths to suit a 70mm or a 90mm wide stud wall and allow for 10mm of lining on each side. Hope this helps.
HI John Thanks for the feedback I hope it work for you. I use Google Sketchup to do the drawing and animation and then record it with Adobe Captivate. Buildsum
In this video you are putting the door jamb against the stud, so your frame is timber what if all around that rectangle is only brick and there is no timber stud? The how do you fit the jamb?
Basically, the same way except you have to put plugs into the brick work to take the screws or nails or use a masonry anchor system like dynabolts or loxins
So in case of brick wall we still call the door frame a door jamb right? The stud is only when we have a vertical member of the existant timber frame right?Because I see the builders call that door jamb a stud which is wrong, they should call it still a door jamb and not a stud
This is one type www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-6mm-x-5m-red-wall-plugs-roll_p2270017 and also these www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-7-x-35mm-green-wall-plugs-pack-of-25_p2260645
Before we even get to a jamb...The door frame shown is not typical. Header is not correct for most building codes. On the topic of the jamb. Pretty good animation.
Thank you so much to show me what a rebate is. Would you also explain whether the word stud and jamb are interchangeable? The builder called the timber to be put on brick a stud, which I think is wrong he should have called it a jamb still. right? And what is a single and a double? and why double? and why he wanted to come 5 mm to the front of the edge of the brick? and what should be the ideal thickness of a jamb timber? and why it is important
Yes, it should be called a Jamb. A single rebated jamb only has one rebate whereas the double has 2 doubles are generally only used as an external jamb as you will have the normal door as well as the screen door to fit into the jamb.
hi john, wondering why the door jamb studs are not double studs in your show? And normally how much clearance need be left between door jambs and jamb studs. thanks.
Hi Roger Double studs are not required unless you have a large opening in a load bearing wall and this is not the case in my drawings. Normal clearance is approximately 10mm on either side of the jamb
HI ***** If you are using a rebated jamb, which is the most common, then the style has to be rebated into the Head so that they fit together with out a large gap. If you look on a door that is already installed you should see that on the rebate side of the jamb it appears like it butts into the head however on the non rebated side you will see that the head has been trenched to accommodate the style. An out of plumb door frame is more the rule rather than the exception I'm afraid. Hope the video helped Thanks for the feedback.
Great video and Info mate 👍 question: why bother notching out the header to take the stiles? Butt joint and a few Brad's, wouldnt that be fine? (Serious question, as im not seeing why it needs strong joinery, especially when everything is braded into the frame anyway)
Hi Robert the notching is mainly due to the rebate of the jamb material otherwise there would be a huge gap between the head and the style. I agree that notching for strength is not required. Personally i always glue and screw my jambs together as over time with the door movement these joints tend to want to open up if they are just nailed. Hope this helps.
Do you mean the door Jamb The Jamb is a rebates section of timber Bunnings and the like usually sell them in sets, 2 styles and a head, they are generally around 18mm thick in the rebate and 30mm thick otherwise. They also come in different widths, approx 110mm to suit a 90mm stud wall and 90mm to suit a 70mm stud wall
Hi, do you have an email address so I can send you a picture to help explain the rebate? If you don't want to post it here please send it to buildsum@gmail.com
Nowadays, especially with project homes the plaster, is installed first and then the Jambs, however, it can be done the other way. Once the Jamb is in then the Architrave, this is the moulding that covers the gap between the Jamb and the frame. This video may help.ru-vid.com?o=U&video_id=gvmKe2F5mEk
Great instructional video. Thanks for the info. I will be putting this to good use in my basement. I was wondering what software you were using to create this video?
Hi Buildsum - thanks for your videos - great stuff! Please could you tell me - what is the software package you use for this? It's great for an overall perspective. Thanks again, Nick
I am sorry I am a bit confused here because I do not understand the terminology very well. So when you have your brick wall and you want to put a door frame in there what is that called? A door frame, a stud or door jamb?
G'day thanks for the video, Was wondering if you could recommend some spirit level sizes for me as a new owner builder? What lengths would I need? Cheers for the videos, they're a great source of information.
Hi Mate, I guess it would depend on what work you are going to do yourself, for most of my career I only had a 1200mm level and that does pretty much everything you want pretty well. I would also have a small torpedo type level and if you are going to be installing your own door jambs a 2m long level is highly recomended. Hope this helps.
A rebate is a cut out or a step in a solid piece of timber Styles are the side, vertical member, Head is the horizontal member at the top Stud is a vertical member in a wall frame that runs from the top to the bottom of the wall
we need to get that measurement and then we need to go and get the the rebate of the circumference of the other weird and then we cut a u shaped into the bottom well of the carrascal then with the rebate you get your money back from Bunnings Warehouse
