Thanks Keith. For those of us who have followed the project it is really nice to finally see it make some chips. I am sure you are very proud of it. We have all learned a lot from the resurrection of the Monarch. Thanks again for sharing with us.
Congratulations Keith! It's been a long road. Great job. A few final touches and you will have something you will be proud of for years to come. A true legacy!
I’ve been watching this series since the beginning. Didn’t realize it has been two years. Congratulations on this and everything you bring to us, Keith.
Painting with spray bombs is slow work. one day I got the idea to spray with a spray can in each hand. The transition was learned quickly and the rapid application of paint easily kept a wet edge. I tend to use overlapping circular motions - what ever works!
Keith, The Monarch is Beautiful! Congratulations on a first class restoration. It looks like a new one. Thanks for allowing me to follow along Gary 76-Year-Old Home Shop Machinist in North West Arkansas
In the words of Crocodile Dundee "Now That's a Taper Attachment" . Makes the one on my Southbend look like a kids toy. She's turning out real sweet, nicely done!
Hugely enjoyable as ever Keith!!! Watching this machine come back to life is like seeing time move backwards. We are now in the middle-to-late 1960's--just another couple of years to rewind with those fiddly last replacements and gearbox work and suddenly it will be November 1963 again!!! You have also converted me to green for machines! Should I ever have the money/space to get into lathing and milling I will certainly restore my bits with a similar colour and hammered finish--although I would probably go for 'British Racing Green' just for a personal touch!
You have done a beautiful restoration job on that machine. We had two of those in our machine shop and I was always impressed with how smooth and quietly they operated. If I weren't so old and had the room, I would love to have one.
Congrats Keith ! I'm an electronics guy that got hooked on your channel at the beginning of this project. I've learned a lot about the art of machining and machine tools (even though I will never do any), thanks to you. I'm also a train guy, so I always enjoy that aspect as well.
Awesome. As a non machinist, it has been fascinating to watch and learn so much during the restoration process. Thank you for sharing this journey with us.
That thing sure is looking good Keith. When mounting the tracking... err taper attachment on, I would have dug into my threaded dowels and put in two long dowels and slid it onto those to make it easier to line up the alignment pins. Also they would hold it while I search around for the bolts I misplaced.
Important milestone. A lot of work. At such time as you do look into the bearing noise I'd love to at least look at the bearing set up in the head of it.
Great work on an AWSOME piece of equipment. Great save on a great lathe!! Should now last at least two more lifetimes if maintained properly. I need to build a taper attachment for my little ENCO1340 lathe. You inspire us.
Nice build and on a favorite machine maker our second favorite in this lathe size class Monarch. Nice machining production attachment, nice to see it operate. Lance & Patrick.
Nice to see this coming to an end. I watched the vid where you brought this home recently and I bet this was not at all what you expected. However now its better then new.
Keith, the Monarch is looking good. A point of information you and your followers may not be aware of concerning the split lock washers you reused in your reassembly of the taper attachment: I retired from the aerospace/defense industry and we were working to eliminate the use of all split lock washers in the equipment we produced for the military. Studies have proven the split lock washer does not 'lock' the bolted joint (even though the split does sometimes bite into the parent metal and shear away some metal) or provide enough tension to keep the joint from loosening under vibration. When nuts are required for a joint, they are now using locking nuts; the nylon ring type for non critical applications and the deformed, all metal type for bolted joints in critical applications. There are guidelines for how many times these locking nuts can be reused and the nylon ring type is only good for 2 to 3 uses. The all metal type are good for more than the nylon ring type, but not an indefinite number (seem to remember about ten times). The best joint is no locking device at all, just an accurately torqued fastener. I know split lock washers have been used for a lot of years and I have specified thousands in the equipment I had a hand in designing and documenting over my career. I was incredulous when told split lock washers were inadequate about 20 years ago and I had to hear it from multiple stress analyst engineers before I could accept it. Actually, a torque value is only an approximation of an adequately bolted connection and the best solution (I am told) is a strain measurement of the actual bolt stretch during tightening. The equipment for this is expensive and not in general distribution to the public, so we have to live with torque values published for bolted connections based on bolt size, thread pitch, grade of bolt, oiled threads, bearing surfaces, and many other factors. (You have seen AVE with his imaginary torque wrench clicking over at it's preset torque value.) Toothed lock washers (internal, external, or both) are used for electrical connections, but the degradation of the mating surfaces can lead to corrosion in the joint and the loss of conductivity. Aerospace/defense uses bonding jumpers, small metal or cable jumpers with ring connectors on the ends to ensure a long lasting electrical connection. Then there is loctite. Be careful with it. The break away torque you see in the literature is based on a 5/16-18 bolt installed in a CLEAN threaded hole or nut. The cured torque values are based on the area of the bolted joint, so a 6-32 screw will have considerably less breakaway torque than the 5/16-18 bolt. In some of the lower strength grades, you may only achieve inch ounces of torque with small machine screws. I refused to use any grade of loctite except the blue and the red grades in my designs. It will fully cure in about 24 hours, unless you use a primer, which shortens the full cure time. If you are using stainless steel bolts and/or threaded holes, you MUST use a primer or the loctite will never cure to more than about 10% of the strength you are expecting. These are things I learned from stress analysts, the military specification for loctite, and i verified with technical experts at the manufacturer. Now, having said all that, do we have to really worry about the things we build, rebuild, or fix in our shops? I no longer use split lock washers and buy the nylon ring type assortments every time I find them at garage, yard, and estate sales; and every time they are on sale at HF. Will split lock washers fail you? I know I have come across a lot of split lock washers that have broken in two when I undid a bolted joint on vehicles and other equipment; but I expect for applications like putting the Monarch back together you would probably be OK. I would hazard a guess that your farm supply (TSC) and local hardware sources do not have the best metallurgy out there, but industrial suppliers (and auto parts suppliers like NAPA) probably have the good stuff and you'll have to ask for it, but don't expect much when you are buying them by the pound. Well, this rambled on, didn't it? Thankfully, you have to click to read all of a lengthy comment and you can just click it again and go on to the next if you don't want to read the ramblings of an old man.
Not so sure about ramblings. I will bite here,however. What is it about stainless that reduces curing ability ? Chromium,Nickel,or other ? Thanks for what you did write . Cheers.
@@paulmanson253 I have experienced a lot of split or lock washers breaking when removing the bolts on rail joints. These are in the 3/4 to 1 1/16 inch sizes. The nuts are usually square. The bolts are shouldered button-head to fit in an oval hole. The nuts do tend to loosen over time and under traffic.
@@paulmanson253 - I don't know the answer to your question about the alloying elements in Stainless, however, if you go to the Henkel/Loctite website (www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/products/industrial-adhesives/threadlockers.html) there is a link to their Threadlocker User's Guide, a pdf document. Click on the link, and on page 6 there is a section entitled "When should I use a Loctite primer?" It talks about Inactive metal assemblies and lists inactive metals that require the use of a primer. They list many more metals than I remembered: Plated Parts, Anodized Aluminum, Titanium, Stainless Steel, Galvanized steel, Zinc, Pure Aluminum, Cadmium, Magnesium, Black Oxide, Magnetic Steel, Inconel, Silver, and Gold. I'm not sure why materials with an added finish require primer, unless they have the finish (Plating, Anodizing, Galvanizing, and Black Oxide) present in the threads which would indicate that threading after the application of the finish should negate the primer requirement IMHO, however it would be appropriate to pass this by a Loctite technical Specialist. But, don't forget the finishes applied to the threaded members lists several of the common finishes that are applied to fasteners, both male and female. Black Oxide is/was the standard finish for many of the high strength fasteners like socket head cap screws used throughout the machinery industry. It also lists the Active metals where primer is not required: Iron, Plain steel, Copper, Brass, Bronze, Manganese, Monel, and Kovar. I had forgotten where I had seen this information and was surprised I could locate it (fairly quickly) again. I'm sure I had this document saved on my computer at work, but I didn't have it on my home computer (It is now!).
@@larryvergon6740 Never even occurred to me that Black Oxide would be a problem. Thanks for the link. Just when you think you know something,there is that little extra you can trip over. Saved me from a real oops,I guarantee.
Thanks Larry for your input. IIRCIi have heard that copper alloys act as a catalyst to set Loctite, and I thought that the primers must have had some copper compounds in their makeup for that purpose. Like Paul below, it never crossed my mind that black oxide finishes would need priming, after all possibly the majority of fasteners in general industry where Loctite is routinely used would be black oxide finished.
Hello Keith , I've been watching you for 2-3 years now , I know I've seen this video before but I just purchased a 1943 Monarch 16 CY , same taper attachment , and was wondering what was holding it from coming off the bed ? So after a search I found it and those 2 bolts under the covers are why . Really glad you made this video & it really shows what a well designed and built like a tank those old Monarch lathes are . I looked on your site about down loading a manual but they don't show much . I'd really like to get More info . about it . thank you so much for the videos , please keep them coming
Hey Keith, isn't there a large nut on the back side of the casting that the cross slide bar runs under? If so that is locked down when not cutting a taper. The nut on the cross slide is a clamp only I believe. Using the back nut allows you to still use the cross slide to adjust size while cutting a taper.
Keith, Had a good chuckle. You said at the start "tracing" attachment. mmm Didn't know Monarch had one! :-) As always wonderful video and many good tips. Regards, Eric
Yes Monarch was one of the first to have tracers, Kellar is a common attachment for many of those lathes, I think Keith's big lathe had one at one time but I don't know how much of it is left.
Hi Keith, loved this series! I recently bought a K-13" x 30" that has a taper attachment. However, the "bracket" you show installing at approximately 21:21 minutes in is missing.I assume it stabilizes the attachment from threaded rod to the rear way flat. It also has a locking nut, to engage or disengage. I sorely need some help sourcing one, or even a drawing to build one, if you have one in your resources. I may also be missing what some folks on Practical Machinist site described as a "clamp" at the adjusting gear ( with the rack/pinion looking setup. An online manual I found doesn't show the parts list, blueprints, or exploded views. You did an awesome job with the series, and I learned more about my machine than from anywhere else. I sent you an email sometime back, I don't know if you got it.
Keith, wonderful job! In my opinion the Monarch is the finest lathe ever made. If you ever have to change the main spindle bearings you will find there three bearing points along the length. This keeps the spindle from flexing in the middle. Also the Taper Attachments are the smoothest I have ever used, they don't really need to have the lock tightened down to work, but it does stop some of the backlash. I always tightened the lock on the back of the taper attachment when cutting straight work to relieve the pressure on the taper attachment slide. Does the zero stop on the cross feed dial work? It makes thread cutting so easy. Again, it is great to see it making chips, good job.
keith now that you are about done with the Monarch . Would you ever think about a DRO for the lathe ? I have a 16" x 54" Boye & Emmes lathe I would like to do a DRO on it .But don't know what one I like
Keith, I don't know what I like watching do more...take machines apart or put them back together after restoration. Where was Miles when you needed him??
I just watched this video After I reinstalled the taper attachment on my 12CK for cleaning and replacing the bearings as you did. One thing I learned is I did not need to remove the long upper plates and LIFT the slide out from the main casting to get those lower bolts in. I simply removed the clamp on the left side and the felt wipers on the right and was able to pull the slide out horizontally. I am still a bit confused about using it however. There is a clamp bolt just behind the compound and another clamp at the very back end. I don't know which to tighten and which to loosen for normal use and which for cutting a taper. Any help for me?
I'm a little puzzled about the horizontal bearings on the taper attachment. Wouldn't they need to be tweeked so that the large bar is sliding parallel to the ways? For example, adjusting the outer 4 to get a parallel track and then tweeking the remaining inner bearings... Regardless, congrats on getting the machine back to an operational state. It's been a long 2 years waiting! Cheers, - Eddy
@Eddy_D I would think that that doesn't matter because whenever you are setting up to cut a taper, before you make the first cut, you first are setting up a dial-indicator and measuring how much your cross-slide is moving over the course of a foot of travel and adjusting the swivel bar until your cross-slide is moving the amount you need it to be moving over that distance and so logic is telling me that any 'non-squareness' between the bottom bar and the ways will be compensated for naturally during setup. The marks on the swivel's dial are just there to get you in the ballpark, within a couple revs on the dial indicator of what you're targeting on taper slope.
Keith, Great job, LOL....Who cleans up your floor ??? I have found it good practice to keep something in the tail stock at all times. This prevents dust and swarf from getting in the taper.
First you need a Tunnel - then you have a light and at last you are arriving at the final destination. You say you don't like painting my question is about the paint. Is it a special paint that is not affected by the oils and suds?
Hi Keith lathe looks great. I got a question was wondering if you are still volunteering at the museum? Just cause I haven't seen any video of you doing any work on the train or other thing from out there.
Whew, its been a 'Long And Winding Road' Keith, but you've finally got the Monarch to the finish line! Looks like the effort will be well worth it! ^^ I just gotta ask: in taper attachment mode, is the normal cross-feed locked on that particular lathe? If it is, and you have to use the compound for cross-feed when using the taper attachment, than it seems like Abom79's 18CY Monarch is a bit more flexible then when using the taper attachment, in that he's demonstrated that when using its taper attachment, he still has full use of his normal cross-feed so the compound can still be manipulated for doing I guess compound tapers.
Hey Keith, I agree you do great work, but shouldn't you be using a Gage to ensure that the two parts stay parallel to each other? that way you know the Taper is exactly correct
hi mate. I think that you have to rethink the workings of your taper attachment. As you explained it, there would be no need for the roller bearings. I think your particular setup is slightly different than you think.
Keith I have some bad news for you Sir, you have entered the same category I am in. If you keep showing video of your belly you are gonna have to graduate to a wide angle lense. :)
This channel and the other Keith are THE BEST! Better then Abom. He exaggerates everything way too much. His channel is getting annoying. Just like he's the king. NOT!
You have no idea what you're doing. You are missed so many calibration precision points when you are assembling. You don't need Monarch Lathe. You need a cheap Chinese Lathe!
@@fowletm1992 I think he is referring to that the eccentrics should be adjusted so the platten travels exactly perpindicular to the carriage and that it remains parallel to the bed ways. It could be tilted in either axis right now and that could cause inaccuracies in the taper especially when using the graduations on it. If you are just dial matching with it it wouldn't matter as much though.
He said he still has to fine tune the whole thing It's not really going to matter if its exact If your just going to go off the graduations then it's a less critical part where 0.2 of a degree isn't going to matter (if even that If it matters then you going to have to indicate it in anyway
@@fowletm1992 I agree with you.. multimedia PcUser What has Keith done or not done that is not correct? The wording you have used makes me think you are somewhere other than the USA. I also hope you are not jealous of Keith and his work. I can attest he does know what he is doing and I would not even attempt it. I have seen what he can do but have not seen what you can do. I find it rather ridiculous to think a man who would take the time and effort to scrape in parts on this machine to about 0.0001 inch flat and parallel would just slap something together in the range of 1/64 th or 1/32 nd inch and call it good.
