Astra J / Mk6 Handbrake / Parking Brake Adjustment. Vauxhall/Opel Astra J Mk6 2013 

That's great news! So glad that this video has helped you.

sorry to hear about the wall incident but happy that you've sorted it now.

Thanks Zane, it's good to know that my vid has been useful.😃

That's great news! Comments like this tell me that it was worth the time to make this video, knowing that I've helped out someone. Thanks.

Great! So glad that this was useful.

Many thanks Dominic. It's not the best but I noticed that there wasn't much else out there to help so made this vid. Hope it was helpful.

Hi Volt, glad to have been of some help. I'd just changed both h/brake cables and adjusted them before making the vid (but was concerned enough not to consider adjusting the h/brake as I made the video - h/brake cable change is a relatively easy job - just got to lift the rear carpet area and even then seeing what you're doing is difficult). To other viewers - any questions, just ask and I'll try to answer them.

Glad you found this useful! Best Wishes.

Have you got a link to the video has I think I need to swap my cable despite already adjusting it. Cheers

@@thomasedward9065 Hi, here is the link to my videos: www.youtube.com/@andyroid7339/videos I hope these are helpful. Best Wishes.

Hi, in short, even though I've seen that you do in a Vx manual, no, you do not. Replace both cables - it's false economy to replace only one. Start by chocking the front wheels and releasing the h/brake, removing the rear of the console (as in video) and for some extra light you could flip up the h/brake gaiter cover. You will need to remove the rear seats (easy as they're designed to come out), lift the rear section of carpet as much as you can (this will involve partial removal of the panels under the door apertures - these just clip on so not too bad, just go easy so that they don't break). The carpet is lightly glued in places but easy to free up. Do this by pushing your hand under. You don't need to remove the front seats, just slide them forward. Once you've got up as much as you can (working toward the centre console, jam under 2 blocks of wood or something to give you some room, at the sides of the what used to be, the prop tunnel. Do all this first. Next, jack up the car (both sides in the air at the same time is easiest) and release both cables (note carefully the route they take, in and outside of the car, for the the routes of the new ones). Take a look at the cable h/brake end for reference and then release the cables from the h/brake end and as in the video, release the ratchet to make things easier for fitting. You'll need to feed the cables from the cabin outward (because of the grommets). I connected the caliper end first but if it's slack either end first should be OK. It is a bit fiddly at times but all possible. Once connected, the yoke balances itself. Just adjust the h/brake cable once everything is on. Any more qus - just ask. To comfort yourself, just take a look at what's involved removing the console!

@@andyroid7339 Jamming the wood really helped to make some room. Thanks for that tip and detailed explanation.

Hi Kevin, you're correct - push firmly on the tag (but slowly and deliberately - one commentator said that he somehow broke off the tag, which I don't think is too easy to do) and the ratchet should release. You could also move the yoke to help. Once it's loose, just adjust up again.

You broke off the 'tag'! What are you? One of the X-Men?!

@@andyroid7339 i am indeed, my mutation is resounding stupidity 😂 the whole self adjusting mechanism had siezed.. it pulled both cables so tight that I had to cut them off. Result: had to get a new handbrake lever and both cables today lol

@@conordornan1228 Oh Conor! So sorry to hear that you've had to go so far to sort out the problem. Is everything OK now? I'm surprised the h/brake mech dad seized as it's well protected from water etc. (maybe someone spilt a drink down there?). At least you now know that your car shouldn't fail its MOT on h/brake cables for a long while.

@@andyroid7339 I was fuming, couldve saved a few quid if I just replaced the lever. Im pretty sure theres a dodgy history with my car, got from the dealership about 6 months now, driving out of the lot the dpf light came on and within a month the clutch needed done. They fixed the clutch but im currently saving for a new exhaust system because their "mechanic" is a con man. Couldnt even align the steering which I was asking for weeks. Claimed he cleaned out the dpf yet after 20 mins i got the same fault code on my obd reader.

@@conordornan1228 not sure how good your mech'ing skills are but it maybe worth looking in the plenum chamber - see how much gunk there is in there. I also paid around £120 for something called Terra clean. Some people knock it but I honestly noticed a huge difference. I always add some DPF cleaner, injector cleaner in the tank with every oil change (which I do myself every 10k miles). Let me know if you're considering Terra clean - I'll tell you a good tip. Hope things get better soon.