Astro modify a Nikon D5300 at home, step by step! In this video I will remove the hot mirror filter from D5300's stock CMOS. BGM: Lobo Loco - Night Roses for Dario - Strings (ID 1696) HoliznaCC0 - Lost In Space
Este chico es de los míos, desarma, estudia, aprende, autodidacta !!! Tiene mucho potencial!!! La próxima vas a poder cortar el ir cut!! El zafiro no se corta con cualquier cosa, proxima paso vas a saber cómo cortar ese tipo de cristal👌Un crack!! 💪💪💪
All the buttons on the display part of the camera have just stopped working no matter how hard I try to get the ribbon that connects from the buttons to the mainboard. I have recently bought a new Keyboard Key Button Flex Cable Ribbon Board and I wonder if that could be the solution?
I pretty much followed this instruction all the way: www.lifepixel.com/tutorials/infrared-diy-tutorials/life-pixel-nikon-d5300-diy-digital-infrared-conversion-tutorial Life advice: get a decent glass cutter, and practice before using it on the real thing!
Glass cutting is both an art and science. Yes giving a few tries BEFORE being at the vulnerable stage would have helped...maybe. Most glass cutters are about the same. The hard little wheel that does the scoring is somewhat critical. Extreme patirnce is required at the stage of striking and tapping along the score lines to produce clean breaks. BUT many types of glass are not at all tempered with their internal stresses relieved in a way that will even allow manual cutting. Not sure about filters and optical flats.
A bare sensor means you will no longer be able to focus to infinity for many lenses, particularly wide angles. I plan to do the same but will grind down the sensor chassis to compensate for the shortened optical path.
@@Thommyblue No unfortunately. I got a professionally modified full spectrum Z5 on eBay for a very good price. It focuses fine. I modified my D3100 a few years ago (bare sensor) but had not ground down the chassis.
I've been eyeballing my old Cannon for similar surgery. I'm not quite sure I understand your goal though. I mean, isn't the hot mirror a near IR cut filter? If so, then why cut a new UV IR cut filter to put back in the camera? Maybe I missed something? My main problem is I know I'm not going to be able to resist the urge to try to remove the bayer filter because I want to work in UV too. I haven't found a good solvent so I would have to try scraping it off the image sensor. One little slip can easily ruin it. Out of 5 RPI V1 cameras I tried it on, only still works, and not very well. It can take about 3 photos and then has to be power cycled. But if I could get it to work, the rewards of having a naked sensor are pretty high, much better light sensitivity and the ability to take UV, visible, and IR photos. It wouldn't easily do color anymore though. I'd have to replace the glass window on the chip with a quartz or sapphire one. I think since my telescope mirrors are aluminum I could skip quartz lenses. I once cut a full length glass bathroom mirror into about 1000 little mirrors which I mounted on plywood and aimed at the same spot as part of a solar energy experiment. They say not to do it, but I found it helped to go over the score line a few times, just make sure you don't miss. Then do a lot of tapping over the score with a large ball bearing or similar to begin propagating cracks through the glass. Then carefully lay the glass on a metal straight edge, scored side up with the straight edge precisely under the score. Protect you hands with a rag or something. Apply gently increasing pressure to the overhanging side of the glass while tapping more along the score line. It is a little unorthodox but it worked well for me. Cutting something as small as a camera filter is probably more challenging. I have been meaning to try a hot wire instead but haven't gotten around to it.
@@Matt_10203 I have noticed that even with RGB photos, one color will have the best focus and a different color the worst. I used to have a 3 CCD video camera that used a dichromic cube to break incoming images into 3 monochrome images. Each went to its own black and white image sensor so that the colors could be focused separately. Unfortunately curiosity got the better of me and I went too far disassembling it. I have also been making a hyperspectral camera and can observe how each of dozens or hundreds of colors is at a different degree of focus. I'm not sure why that is but I think maybe in non-vacuum conditions the speed of light varies by frequency so gets bent to different degrees by lenses. Anyway, I guess a better way to phrase why I want a full-spectrum enabled camera is so that I have the option to choose color (including near IR and UV human-invisible colors) by picking band-pass filters. It would make the telescope slightly more like one of the big boys. That said, I think different colors are also distorted and absorbed by different amounts by the atmosphere so some will probably be ugly no matter what I do short of sending it to orbit:-).
basically the original one is uv ir cut from 300 - 650nm, the astro mod one is from 300 - 700nm, where you gain more infrared light for shooting emission nebula
