FSM does the most fun reviews and “how to”,videos..This video being an example of this.! Tim those cork bricks look spot on..The choice of cork makes wonderful looking bricks and I’ve got to try this.! Thank you and all the best from the U.K🇬🇧🇺🇸👍
Great video, warts and all, lmao! Things don't always go to plan, they require a little tinkering and some trial and error before we get the results we're after. All of us have our moments and it helps knowing even the most experienced guys stumble a little. I like that you tackled this with determination and humour and you were able to get through it. Btw, things are looking great! 👍
First, you guys have a lot of fun there at fine scale modeler. I to have fun at work, i wouldn't trade my real job for any amount of money. Been here almost 30 years, and my end of full time employment is in sight, i will miss it and the people when it does come time to go. Okay. I'm so glad to hear of the cylsdale model. Was wondering what had happened to it. About the brick road, glad you mentioned manhole covers and drainage grates, as i was thinking of those while watching the video. Good luck Tim and just enjoy the build.
To make the cuts with the chopper clean, you might try adding a spacer (like the 3/16 piece of lumber) that would move the cork strip further away from the fence. That should make a cut that goes all the way through the cork. Also, Northwest Short Line has the Duplicutter that might cutting the original long strip easier. Oh, and I like this blow-by-blow approach to a workbench video. Reminds me of listening to Lou Dalmaso pondering.
Reminds me of the time I drilled a couple hundred holes with my pin vise into a Trumpeter 1/35 armored locomotive roof grill...took about 2 weeks of evenings 🙂
I like the unedited with the bloopers. It's a nice change of pace. I remember seeing someone using a cutter similar to the one you have. If I remember correctly, they started their cuts about an eighth to a quarter of an inch away from the edge and came back and finished the cut with an xacto knife like you did. They were able to do them pretty quick that way.
I just recently created a diorama with a brick paver street and used 1" thick FOAMULAR insulation and cut slots in the foam board to simulate bricks. once all the slots were done to make them a little less even I took a pointed stick and ran down all the cut slots quickly while shaking my hand slightly to crush down the gaps and give it an uneven look. you can then use some rough grit sand paper to make it even more rough looking. It was a lot quicker than make hundreds of separate little bricks. That's just too much work.
Dude this was hilarious!! I personally think it’s the BEST video you’ve ever done. Good luck with it Tim and I look forward to seeing how it turns out.
Have not used the "cork cutter" for cork, but in the R/C aircraft world, we used something exactly like that ( well it was black) by Master Airscrew for balsa. Angle the blade so it cuts at a shallow angle and take multiple shallow cuts by angling the tool a bit. I drilled for a 2-56 screw as a blade stop so the angle didn't change. I cut countless strips using this when sheeting around double tapered fuselages. Also used it to cut 1/4" balsa with no issues. Tip, to make a tapered cut, block up the end near the blade a bit. Distance depends on the material to cut, but I think I blocked it up the thickness of the material. Then when sheeting a model, alternate the orientation of the angle and the seam blends in a lot better.
Note, you can take the sheet and create a brick pattern in your drawing program (add some randomness) and score the lines which keeps the back still attached but vaporized the whole gap. The edges are kind of burned which makes a counter shade appearance. Was super easy and repeatable (if you want some huge defect you just make the brick pattern the whole length and “crop” the cut file to each panel, in my laser I can take a 20” wide strip. Also lets you make non rectangular pavers (want hexagon pavers?)
