I've a 2KD and will always have it. I have tried autotuners from both LDG & MFJ and keep coming back to the AT2KD. It did have a problem a few years back & Paul was very gracious at resolving the issue for me.
I use a BT1500A and absolutely love it. I am going to add a 2kD to my collection soon for coax uses. I am also wanting to get an used AT1KM but unsure if it can handle 1kw appropriately but then again this is palstar we are talking about ... literally proverbial battleship tuners and I love them!
Hi, thanks for a great informational video. Please can i inquire do you manufacture tuners which use metric components ? Most of us can not easily obtain replacements for nuts and imperial tools to adjust. Also is it possible to put end stops on the variable inductor ? Thanks
Great video.... you didn't note whether the coupler was "L" or "PI" also you didn't note the reasoning to use the differential CAP other then perhaps due to space limitations.
How do adjust the forward power indicator (in the cross-needle indicator) needle? My radio puts out 100W (checked it with other tuners) but the AT2K indicator only shows 90W. I adjusted the set-screw under "Tuned" but now the 0 setting is now about at the ~2.5W location. How do I zero out the dial to 0 W and also set the dial to the 100W location for forward power? Thanks.
With the D you are losing the option of having maximum capacitance on both capacitors of the 'T' network. The AT 2K and the AT 2KD are both 'T' match tuners. 'T' match tuners pass power most efficiently when you have a maximum capacitance and minimum inductance tuning solution. The AT 2KD will only give you one tuning solution, so it is easier to get a good match... but it may not provide as efficient a power throughput as the non-differential AT 2K. The AT 2K will allow you to set more series capacitance, but it will also give you more than one tuning solution, so it is harder to find the most efficient power throughput tuning option. This is easy if you have an RF current meter on the tuner output. That said, I have a non-differential 'T' Match tuner (the same configuration as the AT 2K) and find it very easy to tune. If I were in your position I would go for the AT 2K and forget about the 'D'. I see your question is 2 months old... but you are a radio ham, so you may still be sitting on the fence. 73, and have fun with which ever unit you select.
The latest AT2K has a rubbish quality roller inductor that cant handle more than 300w avg, without eventiually breaking contact on the wheel/rod causing swr faults. Above procedure does not work for long. Considering how expensive these units are Palstar should supply the better quality roller inductor they used to supply. This latest model cheap quality part is no better than MFJ. Wasted my money.. I asked Palstar to send a carbon grease satchel under warranty, they refused. Also had issues with their DL1500, with bad SO239 fitment.
