For anyone who wants a really good set of schematics on DVD they are available on Ebay for a very reasonable price. They include Bietmans and Riders. Riders is where you want to look first, by the way. These are very good quality. Much better than the free ones you find elsewhere. Often included are the extra pages that contain much useful and sometimes essential information for repairing old radios. I get nothing for promoting these. Here is the link to them: www.ebay.com/itm/110552444760?hash=item19bd706f58:g:LtoAAMXQLbVRaB6W
Hi, OEF (abbreviating your handle). Nice work on this model 70. I especially like how you've hidden the new resistors beneath the old ones to maintain its authentic look. One caution, though: I recommend restuffing all those 91-year old cap cans whether they test good or not. I bought my model 70 from someone who said they restored it, but they didn't recap it....and the power transformer burned up while the radio was playing just fine. I could not find a transformer with a high enough 2.5 volt current rating, so I had to install a separate, 5-volt center-tapped transformer to power the tube filaments. At the very least keep a close eye on the power transformer temperature or current draw.
Thanks for the input. I will definitely consider that. I don't play it a lot but you do make a good point about the age of those capacitors. Definitely don't want to toast the transformer.
@@oldelectronicsfan5136 just had on brought to me for restoration and unfortunately the to power transformer was already fried. I’ve contacted heyboer transformer to have the transformer rewound.
I think the best old speaker repair is with rubber cement. Cut it with either acetone or thinner till the viscosity is thin enough to not distort the sound.
I do use rubber cement especially for the surround. I like your idea of thinning the rubber cement. Always open to everyone's input and I learn from it. I use white glue for the cone particularly when dealing with complex repairs to the cone like I had to do with my Atwater Kent. White glue allows you time to reposition your repair, rubber cement, not so much. I am aware that white glue has a water content that can affect the paper of the cone but so far I have been successful using it.
I just did a restoration on this radio. The guy only brought me the chassis as he had taken the cabinet to be restored by someone else. I am trying to figure out how the chassis is secured in the cabinet. There does not appear to be any holes in the shelf and there was no hardware. Any help or info would be appreciated.
The only thing that secures the radio is a small wooden block that is screwed into the shelf behind the radio, positioned in the center of the radio. It will not hold the radio in place if you flip it on its back. Not very secure.
Hello, i need some help. the variable resistor that there is between first coil, "S", "L" and "mass" isn't work because it was made with coal dust. Is it 2.500 ohms ? i can't see well in the scheme. The electric resistance is situated into volume control, regards.
That is part of the volume control. It is called a dual volume control and the section you mention is 2500 ohms. The second section is 5600 ohms. You will need to look at it closely to see how it is configured. I have never had one apart and don't know how it is designed. Not sure if it is like a stereo pot or how it is wired.
One question. I can see in scheme the capacitor as "P" , but there are two "P" capacitors. The measures are differents. I can see 0.0012 mfd/400v and 0.00025 mfd/400v. There are situated at right of uy227 valve in "Pi" with a coil. I don't understand why have the same name with differents measuremets. What is the measure if each one? Thanks
Now and comparing i think the capacitor of 0.0012mfd is situated near UY227 anode and the other capacitor (0.00025mfd) is situated after coil. I believe comparing the old capacitors situated in my radio.
I ran into the same thing. There are two capacitors in that can and one connects to one side of the coil and the other connects to the other side of the coil. I basically made a guess as to which one goes where. Not sure how critical they are so it may not matter which one goes where. Can't remember which one I put where but it works fine. I can only suggest trying it one way and if it doesn't work well than swap them. There simply isn't any information to help you decide which is which.
Hello, beautiful your radio. I have one AtwaterKent-70 radio that I am restoring. I have one question for you because I have never seen these "R.F Bias resistors". I can see that they consits of a big wire. One of them isn´t work. Do these resistors work as a simple resistor? Can I replace by any modern resistor? In concret is the wire-resistor situated between cathode 1A(UY227) and earth(mass). The measure according electric scheme is1050 Ohms but is infinite ohms. Thanks
That is what I call a flexible resistor. Can't see any reason not to use a regular resistor there. Not sure why those were used but I see them in old radios now and then. Not sure of the wattage. Don't think that is a high current part of the circuit but I have been using 1 watt resistors, just to be sure.
@@sunsuncorda5977 Hey, sunsun: Do you have the part listing, including the table of capacitors and resistors with part number and description, for this radio? If not I can send them to you. -Dion
@@DeepSinkable Thank you very much but I have already the resistors list. I found a lot of information by internet these weeks. Now i'm looking for some valves and a similar speaker , so I think and i wish it will works in two or three months. but on the otherwise if i need help about information I'll write to you of course, thanks.
For some reason a comment by Wayne Thompson isn't showing up here. Here is what I sent me: "Thought you might appreciate some sources of replacement parts of all sorts. Check out these places for possible replacement parts: www.tubesandmore.com/ www.radiodaze.com/ www.renovatedradios.com/ justradios.com/ www.retrocom.com/index.html." Some of those I knew about but some are new to me.
One comment isn't showing up so I am posting it here because the info might to useful to others. From Wayne Thompson, "Thought you might appreciate some sources of replacement parts of all sorts. Check out these places for possible replacement parts: www.tubesandmore.com/ www.radiodaze.com/ www.renovatedradios.com/ justradios.com/ www.retrocom.com/index.html." A couple of those sites are new to me.
Thought about that and on many other things I have taken switches apart. I was concerned that this might not but repairable. I have since found a good replacement. I will take a look at that failing switch now that I have a replacement. Would certainly like to repair it.
I pulled mine apart. There were four tabs and the unit pulled apart. Pull it apart slowly to not lose the spring and to see how it fits together. Mine simply needed to have the caked grease removed, cleaned and regressed. Back to together and it was fine. Yours may have the copper rivets. Easily lightly drilled to knock out the rivets and same clean and regrease.
Mine does have rivets which is why I hesitated to take it apart. I have removed rivets and wired switches back together in the past but thought I would just swap the switches around for now just in case I ran into problems. As I mentioned previously, I found a good replacement. It was actually part of a collection of electronic parts I bought. Didn't even know it was there till I went looking though the assorted junk to see what was in there. That was a nice surprise.
@@oldelectronicsfan5136 I understand the hesitation over the rivets. In the past, I have managed to lightly and not fully drilling the ends, and then with a sharp instrument, punching them out. They are made of copper and are quite soft and in this way I have been able so sometimes reuse them. On the otherhand, I bought some 2-56 screws and nuts to replace them off Amazon. The screws and nuts are the easiest option. I started doing this out of curiosity. What is wonderfully is that the care and pride Americans in once building the best means that it should last forever. And after repairing it, I was happy to put it back in place as it matched the front panel best.
I have dealt with riveted switches before and have used various methods including using a small pair of somewhat sharp side cutters to uncurl the ends of the rivets, with varying degrees of success. I have also used small screws. I think I just didn't want to take that switch apart without knowing I had an option if it went wrong. I now do so I will I see what I can do with that switch. If I can save it I would prefer to leave that switch in the radio. It has the wear on the handle that lets you know it is original and well used.
