Great video. For those watching, while you already have this taken apart it would be wise to replace the cam chain tensioners under the valve cover, and the valve cover gaskets along with it. Most also recommend replacing the oil cooler "bufkin" pipe while you are this far torn apart. This video perfectly describes how to set the timing on these engines and I will be using it as a guide while I do this job on my 2004 A8L.
Thanks for watching, I also replaced the tensioners as they had never been done. Made sense to do while at it. But it would have made too long a video. I may post it as a separate video. One of the new tensionner was bad out of the box and I had to repair it!
25:48 ok! Donc faire la distribution sans respecter la procédure, engendre une forte consommation de carburant !!! Big merci à toi mon frère ! Car j’ai, justement, une forte consommation d’essence. Et je vais y remédier grâce à toi🙏😉
They are good. the 04-07 a8 4.2 are some of the best v8 ever made. When I see them fail is because the timing belt wasnt dones and car is over 200 000miles
@@Nordic_Mechanic Can you please elaborate as to why the 2004-2007 are the best?? I'm curious as an Audi lover and maybe potential buyer of one of these cars in the future.
The main reason I didn't want a D3 was the timing chains. Having to drop the engine just to do timing always scared me off bc it's not something I can do myself and it's expensive otherwise. But ever since learning that the D3 with MPI had a timing belt in the front, I've fallen in love! I rode in one and honestly it's as close to owning a Bentley as I'm ever gonna get.
You can get all the way to 2007....but 2008 gives you the newer electrical system with the bigger screen and gps in the instrument cluster etc etc. also, 2008 is the start of the GOOD trunk lid motor. They are unobtanium. Im working on a rebuild kit for the old plastic case but that wont be in production for a little while still. I also prefer the power curve of the MPI when you first pull away from a stop vs the fsi BVJ. Seems smoother and quieter. Front nose removal on the bfm can be done in 30 mins, and only coolant needs to be drained. Im slowly nearing 600k on that car
@@Nordic_Mechanic 600k kms or miles? Either way thats an impressive milestone for any car; I knew these BFM engines were decently reliable but I had no idea they could make it to that kind of mileage with just regular maintenance.
Hello from Germany.First of all thanks for this very Detaily Video and sorry for my Bad English maybe. I See arround the End of the Video that you "Change" the Camshaft Adjuster. I think that it is time to Change the Adjuster in my 4.2 A8 2003 now because i can hear the Chain. But now to my Qustion. Is it Nesesoury to remove the Engine For the Adjuster in direktion to the window????? Because you know one have the position in Front direktion Timing Belt and the other Backside in direktion to the Window. And can you show me by the way maybe wich one you buy...
Greetings. You are in luck. This engine, the bfm only uses a chain between the 2 cam shafts. While driving the car, the left bank of cylinder has the adjuster at the front. The right side of the car has it at the rear, under the intake tube. The left side is the easier one. You do NOT have to remove the engine. You only remove the valve cover and the exhaust camshaft to make things easier. You CAN do it without removing the camshaft but it's harder. I bought cheaper ones for my car for testing if they were good. One came with a defective solenoid. I fixed it with a solenoid from my old one. The second, left side never worked right. I would stay with name brand. Either OEM or gates, mahle etc if you can find them.
10:35 clik clik clik au démarrage… c’est à cause du tendeur de chaînes d’arbres à cames !!! Ok ok. Merci beaucoup. Mais après avoir remplacé les tendeurs de chaînes d’arbres à cames, comment remettre les arbres à cames en place bien orienté? (bien caler, bien droit. Est-ce qu’il y à un repère, ou une encoche , Ou quelques choses pour indiquer le bon emplacement ?)
oui il ya des marque carré sur le dessus. L'arbre a came de l'echappement est prioritaire. Donc ont place celle ci en premier. Pour l'emplacement des chaines sur les engrenages alors la cest mieux de marquer avec un crayon a peinture si ont eviter les essaies et erreurs
I just want to know how the ultra power tensioner worked well or gave issues down the line. I did mines but purchased is somewhere I'd rather not say so the audi police don't come for me 😂
@@ChrisStylles Rubber can perhaps not last as long. Ive installed skp on both cars and testing them. I put rubber grease to keep salt off the rubber and so far so good. I also put them on a D4 years ago and still good. In a perfect world id put oem, but even oem arent very durable (very cold here then very hot, not good for rubber)
@@Nordic_Mechanic i went with skp as well for the upper arms but the rubber went a year later but ball joint was still in good and functional so just changed the bushings to Meyle HD and is a vast improvement. Thanks for the info. Keep doing those videos
@@ChrisStylles Did you do trim height adjustments when you installed them the first time? If you tighter those arms with no weight on the wheels they get torn
Thank you I asked it because mine was changed 60oookm and 6 years ago and audi says me 120oookm or 10 years to change it what do you think about this please thank you
@@Lavagetextile It only takes 5mins to inspect the belt on a A8. I inspect ALL the a8 belts that comes for other services. 160 000km is still safe, they are super long belts so the wear is distributed. Expect 160 000km if not too old and inspected for any signs of cracks. The quicker you rack up the kilometers, the longer it last. Case in point, this car in the video.
What a great video. I wish there were more mechanics that did this kind of quality work. He took his time and did the job correctly according to Audi standards.
Great Video! Now I have a better idea why the dealer charged me $4500 to replace the timing belt/water pump on my 2003 A-8. It is the most money we have spent on the car since we bought it brand new. Interestingly, it gets the same gas mileage on the road now (with 115k miles) as it always had: 25-26 (pencil and paper, not computer). The EPA sticker said 25. Burns no oil.
Yes, its a big job but not as big as a timing chain . I never go to dealer unless under warranty. They charge more and are not the best skilled for such jobs as they dont do them often working mostly on new cars. Mine also does better on fuel than stated on epa paper ever since they fudged the number to make old car look bad :p
@@normansilverman8678 Lots of techinicians are improperly trained and can't work on cars that requires higher mental skills and dexterity. So a lot pass up on engine work like this. This car benefits from a very neat front end setup that gives a lot more room than transversal engines. I prefer those to most modern transversal V6.
I'd say the reason most techs or shops are not willing to work on the timing replacement is because of time & effort compared to something less involved & quicker to turn over profits on something simpler! But to be honest having to take the entire front clip off of a vehicle to do what should be a rather simple job is mind boggling unless you just love hardship or technical difficulties! Owning one scares me with all the forums & videos I've seen against this vehicle. I love the design and the interior layout,& craftsmanship but the maintenance is my only concern. I'm not a superstar or a professional accountant, Doctor or lawyer so my funds are limited! $3500 here & $1500 dollars there really drains the wallet if you know what I mean.😜✌️
Once you get it in service position much easier to work on. Nice camera work. I bet that thing runs much better with the cams timed right. Yea you need to leave the cam sprockets loose. cams aligned. that is the way all vws work since the 90s
Yes, also solved tensionner issues (replaced both), fan wiring issues. All I have is secondary injection since the pump is dead. Put 2 new o2 sensor. Good until 710 000km. Im glad I did the timing belt myself this time.
Nice video. It's not necessary to remove the whole lock carrier: remove bumper bar (one bolt each side) with horns, unscrew A/C condenser (4 screws) and swing to one side then remove radiator (3 quick release hoses - bottom one to drain and two locating pegs).
You could also do it fighting for space. Id rather have more room. No radiators to remove, they all stay safe on the big core support. There is no time economy in trying to work around it, especially if you have to extract some bolts. ( I had to extract 2 waterpumps screws which were frozen). I've done many timing belts with my hands stuck between engine and frame on fwd so I appreciate the roomy experience those audi give me :p
I appreciate the walk through. One question regarding the crankshaft locking tool/position. If the locking pin installed incorrectly, would the crankshaft spin until it hits a certain point on both directions?
Yes but you'd have to be WAY out for that to happen. Theres mark on crank pulley and timing cover. You have to be dead on for it to screw in all the way. If you miss enough for it to not catch the hole AND not hitting the counterweight on the crank preventing tool insertion then you are over 90 degrees off! You'll see the mark on the crank. If i see it in rust country youll see it anywhere on the world. Paint the pulley if you dont, it will pop and be obvious
Вам понадобится инструмент для блокировки кривошипа и большой серебряный стержень, который я использую в видео. Они устанавливаются только одним определенным способом. Когда они надеты, вы можете открутить звездочки распредвалов. Дайте мне знать, с каким шагом у вас возникли трудности.
It`s fixable but..... the heads needs to come off, valves replaced, possible head damages on top of it. How old was that belt? They should be replaced every 70 000 miles and last easily 100 000miles
Yes it's my car. It's an S8 bumper with 2009 A8L grille. Front end swap was worth it but still need to install the center piece. S8 is also mine, V10 goodness.
@@Nordic_Mechanic nice!!! Bro , we are obsessed ?? I have an 09 a8 ( that I want a s8 bumper ) and I have an 08 s8 with v10 lol . I thought I was the only crazy one!!! Both black
I bought the a8l to get the taillights for the s8 as they were bad on it....then kept it since it was still running good and just kept putting more kms on it. The a8 is more obviously air ride and adaptive suspension and I really like the feeling when it comes in and out of cornering mode. S8 is more planted and doesnt feel much different than a normal car. If I could find a 2008 or 2009 w12 I would probably sell the a8l though. Not many of those , they are as rare as can be because of the 2007-08 financial crash
4.2 is only the displacement. There is dozens of different 4.2 engine models. Some with belts, some with chains. All the newer ones are chain, though. The BFM and BGK of the audi a8 and a8l are some of the best v8 ever made.
@Veikra I picked yp a 98 a6 with a 2.8 5v. 109k miles, everything but abs works...for now. Very well taken care of, doin timing belt, thromostat and valve cover gaskets next month
I avoid saying torque because I want people that will do the job after seeing a video to research and counter verify the data provided at least a little bit before jumping it. Jumping over the torque specs allow this. Hope you understand my reasoning.
@veikra I know this is from a year ago but my lock carrier is off the car and I’m about to do a t-belt service on my c5 S6 (BBD) and this video was incredibly helpful. The fact that’s it’s largely real-time (vs edited down to snippets) is really nice because it gives me some time to observe what else is going on at the different steps. Thank you! I was wondering if you’d just use the cam bar as a “wrench” to align the cams once you popped off the pulleys. The Blauparts cam chain tensioner tool broke off inside my head so will be taking mine out to remove the threaded end which broke off so if you do have a video showing the cam chain tensioner install I’d love to see it.
thank you. The tool is VERY fragile as you experienced. If you tighter too far or too quickly it can break. I did film the tensionner replacement but wasnt happy with the video outcome. I do have to redo a tensionner on that car, bad aftermarket part didnt work out for long. It has the telltale knock on some startups. Im guessing I'll be replacing it next month. It will be the left (car) side tensionner and thus should be easy to film and show. Hopefully it's soon enough to be of help for you. Otherwise, remember you may have to undo the exhaust camshaft so that you get enough room to set it in despite the tensionner being all the way compressed.
Pretty sure my cams on that side will both have to come out….the tensioner tool broke and there is no compression at all on the tensioner. It just has the last 2” of threaded section screwed into the bottom shoe of the tensioner. (The plastic wings on the tool were too fat to fit between the chain and the tensioner so it threaded too far in before it pulled the tool down in between the chain/tensioner but had already bottomed on the head and then broke.) Thanks again for the video!
Oh yeah, I’m doing everything short of the crank seal. Camshaft seals, cam tensioner pads, cam tensioner gaskets, water pump, t-stat, rollers, both belts, tensioners, alternator, motor mounts and torque mount.
@veikra Happy new year! Hope it’s off to a smooth start wherever you are! Wanted to see if by any chance you’ve done (or re-done, I guess) the cam chain tensioner on your car. I’ve finally extracted the three broken water pump bolts from my car and ready to dive into the cam chain tensioner on my car and get her back on the road.
