Thanks for the guide, I tried using the Audi manual which says remove the air con pump and alternator but there is no space to remove aircon pump. Now I am doing it your way, its a lot of bolts but I just got the mounts out! Now I am looking forward to rebuilding the front end, Cheers
I am about do to the mounts on my Sq5. This video was vary informative because the process will be almost the same. Did you have a check engine light for your failed mount?
no my car did not have any check engine light. It was just from vibration and harshness that I decided to check (in my other video) then decided to replace in this video
You're welcome. Yes the alignment was good at first. I didn't have any issues the following weeks. A year later I started to have some clunky noise. I went to a mechanic shop after trying to find and fix myself but nothing. The submrafe bolt came loose and was making noise due to the load etc....but I think my problem started after I had the mechanic installed lowering springs that's a few months later that I got clunky noise issues which needed the subframe to be realigned and torque.
Thank you! Are the two engine mounts the same or is there a right and left when ordering. I often see "left" or "both sides, left" but I never see "right" when searching for engine mounts
@@car-dcd Yeah np man. I tackled this job myself and it wasn't bad. I'd recommend dropping the whole steering rack and have it dangling from the tie rods. The passenger side will come out easy after this. It's just two bolts for that with square nuts on the ends. I'd also recommend taking off the sway bar which is also easy. The driver side you just need to move the oil cooler out of the way for the two triple square bolts for the bracket that holds the motor mount in, then just the rest of the bolts. Even though it took me a while, I could do it again in probably 1/4 of the amount of time. Just need a good impact and that honestly reduces the time a lot. Getting the subframe to line up when you're putting the bolts back in is a little bit of a pain but if you got a friend or something to held with a pry bar to wiggle the motor mounts or to move the engine hoist it makes it a lot easier. Don't tighten all the bolts until everything is in. Makes it a lot easier to adjust. And also keep your bolts organized. You can keep the subframe bolts in the holes while you're working. Just makes finding all the bolts easy and more efficient.
Was your old motor mount leaking fluid? I think my driver side motor mount is shot, noticing a lot more vibration on idle and when coming to a stop, plus I see a little smoke coming out from the driver side bank as if the fluid is leaking onto part of the cat or something hot thus creating smoke
