Pipercross panel filter and drilled box for the moment. Boost gauge recently fitted thanks to your video 👍🏻 Alpine headunit went in within a week of owning TT. Spacers and springs in the same evening. Finally new back box and mid-section went on 2 weeks ago. Love how it looks and sounds. Good video dude 🤘🏻🤘🏻
Thumbs up! Got plenty inspiration from your previous videos. Cone Air Filter & 3" TIP - On the list Boost Gauge - In the drawer ready to be fitted Stereo - Got a nice BT head unit that goes behind the flap (current Sony one doesn't let flap shut) Spacers - Got em! (saw a vid of yours) Lowered - It was on pre-facelift lorry springs but some nice chap called Bryn recently fitted my H&R's Noisy Exhaust - In the future I think I'll go 3" DP, Sports Cat & Exhaust Other ones I think I'll add once I've sorted all the general maintenance issues you pointed out are:- Remap Adjustable rear arms Poss an uprated intercooler
@@woutervelner4298 nope. Had a Pro Ram and downgraded because I was selling the car. When I went back to the original air filter it felt a lot slower. Whether or not that’s a placebo because of the noise I don’t know
@@ScottPC aaaaah okay. Thanks for your explanation! I also heard that the torque may change when one installs an air filter. Did you notice that as well?
Always loved your work and now all your content..Thanks for helping get my car to where it is today. You know you saved it soon after I bought it.Buzz🐝
Be careful with wheel spacers. They will cause you to clip the kirb more . meaning damaged rims . I left mine standard im pleased i did think before you rush in .
just got my TT. Bought a cold air intake. Since it has aftermarket wheels, I dont need spacers. My next goal is to get new lowering springs as the previous owner had all springs lowered, but before he sold it he bought cheap standart springs in the rear because they needed replacing, as a result the rear is raised while the front is lowered, which realy bugs me.
@@BWSTT Well, I took the Audi driving course that taught you how to drive the TT at the very rim of its capabilities. When I had only had the car a few months I was driving it over a twisty turny mountain road thinking it would be fun, but I got stuck behind 7 cars bunched up behind a farm truck tooling along at 25 mph. Came to the only stretch that allowed passing, and thought I would pass a few of these cars, so I slung it into the oncoming lane pushed the stick to Sport mode and floored it. After about 3 seconds, I thought, “ I think I can pass all 8…” I passed the farm truck about 40 feet past the end of the passing lane marking and jerked the car back into the right lane just as the car crested a rise… only to reveal a 100 degree turn with yellow ‘35 mph’ sign. I literally had only one second to brake before I hit the curve… but I remembered the training and the half hour lecture on Traction and braking theory. So I let off the brake, and turned the wheel and like the instructor had said, “Trust the car to hold the road- do NOT touch the brake when turning at high speed”. The car held. But that was just the first of a series of 5 more switchbacks snaking 120- 160 degrees each down into a ravine. I estimate that I hit the first curve at around 120. I braked for 2 seconds and hit the 2nd at 112, then one at 100, one at 90 and by the bottom I was going a reasonable speed. It was the stupidest thing I have ever done in a car, but I have to hand it to Audi- that DSG SLine tuned TT hung on. It did not skid, did not go off track and the slight understeer Audi builds into the cars for safety was easily corrected for. Afterwards, I noticed my red screen in the center of the cluster was flashing 127. A few miles down the road I stopped the car and pulled out the manual and found out that the TTs sold in the states had a speed governor installed by law. And that when you engaged it, it would flash the top speed at which it limited further acceleration. So that’s how I know I was going 127 as I passed that truck. You have to turn the ignition off then back on to stop it flashing. You can get that chip removed… but it’s a pain to get to, and I don’t see myself ever needing to go faster than 127, anyway. The 3.2 DOES corner really well, and the SLine version of the 3.2 is even better still. I once drove it as fast as I could down Highway 1 in California thru Big Sur, and I averaged 61 mph between Carmel and Cambria. ( 146 miles in 2.4 hours. ) Fantastic car. It’s been my daily driver for 18 years, and has been the most trouble free car I’ve ever owned.
The 52mm gauges can sit in an adaptor which still allows flow past it, which is fine for us over here, but i can imagine some hot states needing all the blow they can get!
I upgraded the brakes, suspension, k&n cold air intake and 3 inch tubes and throttle body with spacer, electronic gauges (HUD), 2 Piece clutch, light weight billit aluminum flywheel, titanium alloy impellers in the turbo, air to air 4 core intercooler, a rear duck tail made from carbon fiber, LED headlights, racing seats from Bride, and a a full exhaust from Borla, and a quick release steering wheel and full race style suspension, as well as a blow off valve and custom wastwgate. Oh and a short shift kit.
Hi man I bought also a TT last week but it got some things to do ,heater blower stays hot,non airco,fuel and temp gauge broken,somethime smokes blue and then not,maby turbo,pcv, valves,ether way it got a dealer inspection every year,but still now it's need some attention.. it drove really well with all the Quirk's... Greetings 🍻
I know I'm a bit late but should i modify somehow and shorten the shocks when putting the lowering springs or just f it and just throw them on and the shocks will be fine?
Bigger trucks and Toyota rav4s try to push me on the road since my tt is smaller. Any defensive driving tips? Right now I just keep my space and don’t let them bully me but gawd dayum I wish they meet their maker the sooner the better for some good judgement
I tried fitting a boost gauge, followed instructions to the letter. Didn't work, company sent me another in case first was faulty. Still didn't work. Measured 12v at the gauge and the stepper and vacuum on the pipe coming from engine bay. Couldn't figure it out so sent both back and didn't bother in the end... ☹️
What will actually work is a cold air intake which will go all the way down. I'm wondering what makes you think the original filter is such a restriction. It's more than large enough to allow the stock turbo to breathe properly.
@@BWSTT I'll be looking forward. My 1.8T is fitted with a cold air intake running down to the front left fog light. Open air K&N attached. I can't imagine sucking warm air from the bay would perform better.
Thanks for this video man. I've been so conflicted about how to improve my TT. Viewer request: can you show how to replace the 02 sensors? I need to replace mine but I have no idea how to do it!
wheel spacers will effect scrub radius, among all your tt's which one you dedicate for lifting the car's spirit as how the mk3 did in keeping the name badge
With regards to the air filter I have the big PRORAM but was getting bit tired of the noise so did put the original box back in. That did not last long because I noticed immediately that the car was less responsive but what was most obvious was the difference in the sixth gear. If around 2k revs in sixth and standard air box/air filter the car felt like it was choking and struggled to pull. Did put the PRORAM back and problem solved. Don't know if it has something to do with ECU adjusting itself and me not giving it enough time to readjust to the original box or not but it was very very obvious the difference. Basically after that experience the PRORAM went swiftly back in 😀
Ok let me see my checklist: Spacers - check Lowering the car - check Boost gauge - missing Air intake - missing Bluetooth audio - check New amazing sounding exhaust - missing. Well Im half way done on mine :) Which exhaust is that? It sounds lovely😎 Awesome video mate, keep them coming!
Thats a good list Kevin. I honestly dont know for certain at this point- that was filmed within 24 hours of buying it and i haven’t had it up on the ramp yet, but its got 3” DP and sports cat, thats all i know at this stage, full video on the car coming soon.
Great video mate just the lowering part I need to get to what would you recommend Coilovers or lowering springs also the Bluetooth is it just plug and play I don't have to start pulling the lower dash apart or anything do i
Yeah its plug and play, just remove the stereo to access the wiring. Suspension wise, id say its all down to preference- you can get some good coil and shock combinations at 40mm drop, but you dont get that fine adjustment that you donwith coilovers, but typically coilovers will cost more for nice handling ones, the cheap ones will get the lows, but they’re not that refined
@@BWSTT I am getting pretty excited not going to lie.. only doing rears first at 15mm.. then will buy the 20's and swap onto the rears and 15 for fronts another day 👌 the rears on mine are sat in the most for sure
Cold air is better because it's basically more volume than hot air but if you put a better flowing filter those losses can be offset and surpassed in some cases not on all cars .
It would be easy to tell if an open cone filter is better by simply measuring the density of the air and calculating the flow….. wait…. These cars have a mass air flow sensor, and back to back testing shows that the standard air box is restrictive. On forced induction, the priority for cold air is further down the chain- at the intercooler, after you’ve super heated the air in the turbo
I don’t think you realise that no matter what the temp of the air coming though the filter it will get really hot going through the turbo and then will be cooled via the intercooler before it heads into the throttle body.
Bro I have a trouble with my TT. It won't start, the battery is dead. Level voltage just 10V. I try to recharge the battery with another car but doesn't work, don't kick start. Do you think the trouble is the alternator? I hope you can help me please 🙏!!
When will the video on cold air intake vs open cone come out? I just did a few other mods on my 05 TT but I’m waiting to get a tune until I do an intake, but I don’t know what to buy.
The filter in the Airbox is not the problem, I used the same 'stock' filter on my RS2 making 380hp, the airbox is the problem, specifically the intake into it. Putting a panel filter in it won't change a thing. Putting some extra intake holes in it will help. It's also worth noting that the turbo intake pipe, TIP, is restrictive, get a badger 5 TIP.
Wheel spacers will offset the geometry, which will torque on the ball joints and bearing causing premature wear. As for handling, it COULD cause issues or non at all.. MAYBE even help in some scenarios idk. But having it further out could add mechanical disadvantage to unsprung weight.. like dribbling a ball with a ruler, you'll feel the stress and added weight to your wrist as the same will happen to the suspension pivot point. Does look much better 🥲 Air filter, there's nothing magic about it. Even if you don't actually get more air and don't make more power you're reducing the accordion effect and helping your sensors predict A/F ratio better, giving you a better throttle response. Open cone filters will always make your car run like garbage in traffic sucking in hot radiator air, there's far too much information online about that now with real data behind it. Side note, Clean You MAF sensors!! it's in your scheduled maintance for every 15-30k miles. They sell spray for it.. ESPECIALLY if you have an oiled air filter, i would clean it every 5-10k miles. I'm looking into downpipes😁full exhaust would be nice, but don't think ill need it unless i'm going with a big turbo.
Spacers don’t cause premature wear- but definitely have positive effects. Air Temps in slow traffic are irrelevant, with no sides effects to the way the car runs. But thanks for the contribution
Thanks for the video . I've got the same air filter set up and I wouldn't go back to OEM .it makes all the difference and sounds nice too . What exhaust do you have fitted ?
@@BWSTT Even without a remap it makes more power and runs heaps better, especially if you live in a hot climate. But yes to get the most you should do a remap.
@@TheIraniandream in hot climates yes, i see the logic, but its still not on my first list of mods, its on my secondary list of mods for gaining power, which I will be discussing soon
Put it this way- there is approximately 14mm of thread engagement on standard bolt into the hub, so if you space it even 5mm, youre down to only 9mm thread engagement, so yes, always get appropriate longer bolts to match the spacers
Hi, regarding lowering the car. I have a 3.2 tt 2004. What would you recommend on how much to lower this and what size wheel spacers would you recommend? Also, by lowering the car, would the tyres rub against the wheel arch?
On the 3.2 i wouldn’t go any lower than a 40mm lowering spring- keep in mind that this is only 20mm lower on the v6 as its facelift height and spring suppliers are stupid. At that height with 20mm rear and 15mm front spacers you shouldn’t have any issues. I would avoid going any lower on the 3.2 due to the sump sitting lower than on the 1.8.
How about 5 things you can do to a newly bought Mk1 to turn it into a reliable car? The spacers will allow for a wider wheel. Buying a mk1, which engine will be the most trouble free? 1.8 or 3.2.
Not a bad idea for a video, but whats perhaps more important is a buyers guide with preventive maintenance to look out for already being sorted. Without going into detail, the 3.2 is the more reliable.
@BWSTT How about the automatic to the manual for that engine? I have a beautiful one available for $5000 with 169k on it. A silver with black roof. Some kind of special addition.
Dont some cars actually lose or gain no power from bigger air intakes. Because their ECU was tuned to the standard box in mind. Making them always believe that their max air intake is a set number. So unless you also tune ECU to understand that more air can come in now, it wont utilise the new filter capability?
We arent talking about “some cars” though. We are talking about the audi tt mk1. My advice is for the audi tt mk1. I have data showing the benefits, but thats for another time
True, my 996 actually lost power for some reason when I installed the induction kit. Untill we tweaked the ECU to accept more air. Then it was smooth sailing.
It adds hp as long as it stays COLD but when its starts to suck hot engine air it looses hp thats why they stock ar boxes with holes on the bottom and some type of holes for mask
No, ecu adapts to more or less air. Hence why your car doesn't just automatically throw check engine lights when it's hot out and the air/oxygen level is naturally thinner/less dense.
It depends how low you go, and on what size tyres, but yes, I have known it to happen in certain situations, its usually the outer corner of the tyre catching the back of the arch
Any tips on getting the Bluetooth adapter working? I can see and connect to the device on my phone, but I can't get the head unit to switch to output the sound? I assumed it would be just hitting the mode button but nothing happens...
@@BWSTT just by pressing the mode button like you would if switching from radio to tape to CD player? 🤷 It won't change from radio with this plugged in.
Greetings, I am currently looking for a good mk1 TT and I was wondering could you give me some tips (or send a link in case you have already made a video about that) on what should one pay attention to when buying mk1 Audi TT (besides regular stuff related to every used car). I don't have any experience with Audis, especially TTs, been driving BMWs and Alfa Romeos my whole life, so any advice would be helpful :) Thanks in advance!
Injen Cold Air intake is better. Installation is a bit tedious but I promise your the payoff will be worth it. It actually increases Horsepower and torque by breathing in fresh air from the outside behind the bumper.
It works the turbo harder, as it adds more restriction. Try breathing through a straw, then try breathing through a kitchen roll tube- not think of your lungs as the turbo. The impact on flow is worse than then benefit of the cold air that’s about to be super heated by the turbo anyway.
Perhaps it's a good idea te announce that an open air filter is making a terrible shishing noise al the time....an inlay filter from k&n doesn't make that noise. A module to monitor your boost in your original dis is a better way to read your boost and you still got your air vent Lowering is taste appendent......you can also make it harder without lowering. Intrax springs are the best and from a range from 20 to 40 mm lower. A Milltek exhaust is not making much more noise under 2500 rpm. Above that level......all hell brakes loose. The stability of any car gets better when the wheels go further out......with spacers but better with an other offset on the wheels
The Ram air filter kit on the car is Great ,not noisy at all you hear it boost and dump but irs also not noisy on the road a great pice of kit well worth the money,i have one on my 180TT Quattro
Indeed....if u stay under 2000 rpm u hear nothing from the open air/ram airfilter🤣 perhaps on a 180 ps u don't hear it but on all the 3.2 and 225 ps engines i have worked on and driven with u got more noise. Also when these engines are in other cars. The most silent is a k&n airfilter in an original airbox from an arl engine (150 ps diesel) with its original air intake between airbox and turbo. Gives u also the most power and best flow without messing with your vacuum values or air flow sensor
@@BWSTT Would be great to see some videos of it! I've just bought myself an Imola Yellow 225bhp project car, really wanted to replicate the ABT wide body kit but they are so rare and no one seems to produce anything similar. If you have any links as to where I would maybe find something similar I would be eternally grateful!
Whenever you modify a car this way, you lower the value of the car. The car remains most valuable when you try to maintain the car as originally intended.
@@BWSTT Thank you for the response. Yes, it does appear that way. I’ve been trying to make my stock perfect as much as possible, hoping it will fetch a good payoff in the end. Owned it for 22 years. I think the mileage is too high though. The mods you’ve suggested are not outrageous, subtle in appearance and improve performance, I understand that. Nice job.
@@BWSTT no front. I got wheel spacers like those on my TT. Driving without them is much more comfortable. But I keep them for the looks. Air filter did nothing for me, and the sound was so annoying that I switched back to OEM.
What kind of specialist promotes teenage mods that will just waste money and harm performance 😂😂😂 So many things that can be done and this is the bottom of the barrel
Anyone who thinks spacers are an issue doesn’t understand how wheels are kept in place. They are kept in place by friction. There is no scientific reason that spacers are an issue.