Thanks for the video. Great information for newbies! clay bar used as part of a process will give you excellent results, never use clay bar as a stand alone action. In detailing world it is referred to as the 5 step detailing process: 1. Wash your car to remove most dirt 2. Clay your car to remove contamination, this will make polishing much easier 3. Use a compound to polish out the existing swirls and swirls made by claying 4. Nourish your paint by using a polish, this will give a deep shine 5. Protect your paint by waxing. You can additionally add a 6th step: use a quick detailer spray to give that last finish. But again: don’t use a clay bar without compounding afterwards. On the other other don’t wax your car without compounding first as it will trap dirt between wax and paint. Don’t compound without claying first because you will be rubbing the contamination into the paint.
Natural clay bars back in the day were gritty and marred but lot less now with synthetic clay. I use plumbers putty with zero marring and picks out contaminates
There's no reason to clay your car unless you intend on doing paint correction. It's just another tool in the toolbox. Clay barring is NOT a step in the process of cleaning your car - It's a step in the process of restoring depth and shine to your paint. At the very least clay barring should always be followed up with at least a polish.....and of course a wax or ceramic coating. Never clay bar your car as a routine in your cleaning process.
As a detailer I agree 100%. I always tell customers you never clay bar unless you're going to correct paint, meaning at least a polish. Doesn't HAVE to be a compound. That rule will save you. On the flip side, NEVER correct paint before you clay paint....or at least test the paint (hand in sandwich bag and rub easily across paint ).
So I’m a little confused… I have a fairly new vehicle (2020 Tacoma) and I take really good care of it. In a few months I’m planning on claying, (with a lite clay) then applying a ceramic coating afterwards. Then apply a glaze, then a wax. Should I not clay it ? My truck doesn’t have any scratches, I definitely don’t need paint correction. If you’re able to advise me, I’d appreciate it! Thanks!
@@pilgrim985 If you take care of your car regularly, the chance that you have imbedded contaminants are very small. Especially on a newer car. A glaze is technically a sort of paint correction, as it's intented to fill out and obscure small scratches or imperfections. Furthermore, a glaze is easily removed by any prolonged exposure to the elements. Which means it will break down over time. Instead I'll advise a claying, followed by a 1-step polish, and a professional ceramic coating (no name-dropping), with lifetime warranty. It's not cheap though, and I can understand why you wouldn't. But unles you intend on a polish before applying the glaze, I'd say you're wasting time by claying. And that's under the condition that you keep your paint clean, by hand-washing your car at least once a week. But if you insist, sure you can do it. One time is very unlikely to damage your paint. The thing you should really keep in mind, is that claying your car shouldn't be part of your regular routine.
@@mrawesomeDK I only clay my vehicle once a year and then apply a sealant of some sort followed by a glaze and then a wax. I really do appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions. Thank You!
The only time I claybarred a vehicle was an old white van I had. I sprayed so much of that lube stuff and put very little pressure on the clay bar and absolutely covered the entire vehicle in little surface scratches. I took it to a detailer to prevent any further damage and after they compounded and polished, the finish on the vehicle was incredibly smooth to the touch and all of the little fine abrasions were gone.
Very informative video. I absolutely agree. The "rubbing" action of one material against another will always cause scratches. Most simply cannot be seen with the naked eye. When you polish any material, you are removing a very small amount of the surface material. These are natural laws and there is no getting around it. However I think (when it comes to clay bars) more damage is done when it is not folded over properly or is over used. The removed material/contaminants already embedded in the bar will definately scratch. Thus I am quite liberal in my use of clay bars. Since we generally do not use clay bars on a weekly basis on the same car, I use 1 complete bar to do 1 vehicle. It minimizes the chance of severely scratching the paint to the point where these become obvious.
best ever is to use Bilt Hamber clay fr UK they have their own clay mine ! avail in S , M, H grades it is so pure they say and it is TRUE ! you can use just plain water ! try it let me know what you think ? and update your video w/an addendum ? thx Jack
Anything you rub on your paint will scratch it to some degree. Whether it be a wash mitten, chamois or a microfiber cloth. I have used a clay bar with excellent results and will continue to do so in the future. Just make sure you keep your clay as clean as possible.
Thanks for the video man. I Clayed my car in preparation for a polish and used optimum No rinse as a clay lube at the right proportions. I definitely scratched my paint up pretty good in some areas where the clay picked something up and dragged it. I felt like such an idiot afterwards like I did something wrong, but it turns out this is pretty much what happens.
Things just get taken to far these days. Waste of time. I paint my own cars. (Check my channel) after my new paint cures for 2 weeks. I use a regular old buffer going over the car with Mequires cleaner wax. After that a hand wax job using the standard old Turtle wax paste that's been around for 40 years. Done! I'll put my paint side by side with any car. There won't be a difference Wirth even mentioning. So, keep it simple and enjoy your car. Complicating a simple wax job takes the enjoyment out of your original goal. Pleasure and to be proud of your creation.
You forgot one of your other great quotes, “have realistic expectations” 😏. Great content as always. Now this could be why TurtleWax haven’t released a product line of clay bar kits 🤪😂
Having years of experience help to form an informed opinion . I totally agree with your argument . Be careful people not to cause a bigger problem . In some cases using a high quality polish (not a wax or ceramic sealant -thats the last in the process) and carefully hand polishing , you should get a great "damaged less" finish . Love your content mate . Top work .
Yes does claying remove contsimanation of tree sap? I have a brand new Kia wit tree sap on roof looks like the night sky & on plastic moulds& sun roof 😤
Have use clay bars for years... and I have black Lincoln Navigator....I found using the clay with spray on wax works very well... but without proper cleaning before using anything waxs..clay bar products will definitely scratch..but as far using compounds to clean your paint up in fact your put fine scratches in the paint then you apply wax the polish... but with any products you have to take care and use them correctly
You helped me alot I've been detailing for a yr now but was always skeptical on clay baring fearing that I would mess up a client's car. Hopefully you or I or someone can come up with a solution that removes over spray without rubbing it with
When a professional detailer chooses a white car, I know what colour my new car is going to be! Great video. I think I'll just stick to waxing my (black) car.
Bought a brand new car this year. After looking at some ceramic coatings they all insisted on claying the car first saying there were contaminates in the paint. Having clayed a car years ago I thought they were nuts. I had a brand new car with not one swirl mark or scratch on it. No way was I going to risk screwing up the paint or reducing the thickness of the clear coat on a brand new car. I ceramic coated it with just a good wash and it came out fine. I continue to maintain it with liquid spray ceramic coatings as drying aids and the car looks great and still not one swirl mark or scratch after 8 months. I stopped listening to experts and using common sense years ago. Is it possible that my car might look a tad better if I followed instructions, possibly but not worth the risk.
Thanks you! I’m a newbie to using clay - actually I’ll be doing for the first time -and you’ve made my fears about it’s possible impacts more rational. I better understand the “process” and what to expect.
@@williamsmarr9500 My question is , if you don´t clay and only wax it regularly, I use Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax every 6 months , wihat happen to your car paint ? I mean what damage is greater , claying it or only waxing it ? Are the contaminats damage your paint more than the clay bar ?
@@hb-ol9oc The "damage" from a clay bar is not really damage; it's called marring and looks like a scuff mark. Won't hurt anything but you can see it, especially in sunlight. On the other hand, if you wax it without claying it first, you're grinding in dirt and other contaminants on the paint. Clay barring is easy and pretty fast. You can even do it while washing car, using soap as lubricant, AFTER cleaning car first with a proper wash mitt. So, to answer your question, waxing without claying is more damage than claying. Hope that answers your question.
@@guppyspop Wax fills the light scratches.. Next time, before you wax, spray some alcohol on it and wipe off....you will see the actual status of the paint as a result of the clay bar.
A good guide to know if your car needs a clay bar... get a micro thin plastic bag from the fruiterers and open it up, put your hand in and GENTLY run your hand over an area, it will feel like the rocky mountains! Then do a clay bar in that area and feel the difference. You will be shocked.
Great video, I noticed the CYA on all the products. I was wondering… If I haven’t washed my car for quite some time and all I wish to do is wash and wax it, would waxing without claying beforehand be worse for the paint than claying before waxing? In other words, will the act of waxing the car without claying it, end up scratching the paint worse, or will the contamination remain in place and not get spread around because it would hypothetically stay in place unless I needed clay to remove it? I’m sure I’m over thinking it, but I have a black vehicle though and I’m just worried about scratching up the paint. I don’t own a dual action polisher to follow up with but would like to take better care of my vehicle until I can save up for one. Thank you kindly and have a great day!
I noticed how great yout mirror looked. I have piano black trim around my car windows. It shows every fingerprint and scratch. Any suggestions? Clay bar? Polish?
One thing I do know if you polish it and then run your hand over it it will still have noticeable lumps and bumps for the contamination on the paint work. Where when you use the clay pads they eliminate that I guess that’s one advantage to the pad.
I agree with most of what you said. The polish process is trading larger, fewer, more visible scratches with finer, more, less visible scratches. But I am no fan of clay bar unless I have no other choice because they WILL scratch your clear coat and scratch it rather deeply in some cases. We are not getting very much clear coat from car manufacturers anymore. We have to start being conservative with our paint correction practices and, even better, being more vigilant about taking care of well conditioned paint.
Environmental impact and cost. Automakers are lowering the amount of clear coat, year by year. It is wise to take care of your paint work on new vehicles and do whatever you can to prevent the necessity for polishing clear coat, as much as possible. Someone may have a different perspective to be that I'm open to hearing for sure though.
Totally agree. Just keeping your paint wet will alloy your clay bar to glide. Feeling resistance is very bad, not gliding. Resistance will scratch your paint. A very little detergent may help to remove grease. You will need to polish for a showroom finish
@@brandon-vz9bg I don't know if Ouzo uses dish soap or car wash soap. But from what I have seen in these videos and from friends in the detailing business. You should never us dish soap for washing/detailing your vehicle.
Dish soap should only be use on a car if you are washing to start sanding it for prep work or if washing to get ready to paint dish soap removes all protective on paint like wax polish and grease
Hey Darren, I really find your videos very informative. I would like to know if after you clay bar if you have to give the paint an alcohol wipe and if so the ratio of alcohol to water. Thank you so much for all of your time and expertise, greatly appreciated. Rob
There will be many pseudo-experts that say you must or should. I disagree as it is simply a waste of time. With that said, I certainly would wipe up/off any liquid "mess" created by the claying process.
Polish with a compound, prep the paint with IPA and put on wax or coating. Not good to clay without polishing after. If you keep up on it, you won't have to compound every time, usually 1 pass with polish and 1 pass with primer is fine. Then you don't need to worry about clear coat thickness
I heard regular plumbers putty works as well as clay bars. Also, technically aren’t you really only trying to improve the layers of clear coat on the surface and not the actual paint itself? Thoughts?
I once clay barred a Porsche and it left the deepest scratches that was not removable with any DA polisher. This was after using the same clay bar for a Tesla and GMC, which had no problem compounding after. Just be careful. Some paint are softer than others.
I’m pretty new to detailing my car. Just got a new vehicle 2022 and would love to protect it from the elements and bird poops and what not. Should I skip the clay bar and just wash my car… apply Jetseal pain protection (chemical guys) and carnuaba wax? What do you think ?
Quick to judge the clay bar process, but offered NADA about removing paint contaminates. If you are an auto detailing professional, where is the professional method, as you pointed out, on museum relics, and such? Used properly, and proper polish/seal/wax, clay bars process works. If anyone offers to do a full multi-stage clean/polish/seal/wax without a clay bar, I will ask them, "so did you grind all the paint contaminates deeper into the finish, then over coat it?" Thanks for the vid -- good info, but have to consider the big picture
Claying in most cases is used if you are going to deep clean the surface of your car and I never had any issues with it scratching the surface. Back in the day we didn't have clay, we had to use compound to remove any surface imperfections, which lead to another process of polishing and glazing. With claying you still have to polish the surface after you are done, but you could probably use a less "aggressive" polish. Claying verses compounding the finish is a lot safer and less chance of leaving deep scratches. I would never suggest claying and then waxing a vehicle, I would always suggest using a polish to bring the shine out. Also some people use the entire clay bar. I would suggest breaking the bar in pieces and just using sections of it, so if you drop it you don't contaminant the entire bar and always keep it clean. Clay bars don't scratch the paint moving the dirt and grim that builds up on the surface of the bar does. Keep it clean is the secret. Similar to wet sanding ...keep a stream of water over the surface to wash away any particles left behind. Do the same with claying.
perhaps the wording should be, it's not the Clay Bar scratching our Duco but it is the debris that the Bar picks-up that does the scratches. (& I've never used a clay bar) just surmising.
I am an automotive painter. Clay yes works. I personally use warm water with a few drops of dawn in it. Everything puts abrasions in it. Only time it is scratch free is free of the factory line before it is purchased. Short answer it works, but fancy lube no needed. Compound and polish after clay and scratch is not as noticeable
Before using clay, use a Decon spray to dissolve metals and brake dust from paintwork. Rinse. Now use tar/bug remover followed by a snow foam contactless wash. Follow with contact wash using Decon shampoo and 2 bucket method. Now use clay bar. There is nothing left on the car to embed into the clay bar, so the clay bar leaves no scratches. It does, however, prepare the paint for LSP. Rinse. Dry. Apply LSP. Sorted.
So glad I came across your video! As an amateur detailer, but a real fuss budget, I thought using a traditional "light" clay bar on my 2019 vehicle was the smart thing to do. You are right -- it will scratch! So now, prior to re-applying its biannual application of ceramic coating, I try to DECONTAMINATE, DECONTAMINATE, DECONTAMINATE as much as possible prior to the claying process. After doing the wheels, I foam up the entire vehicle with a cleansing car shampoo & power rinse. Next comes a decontaminate spray all over, foam up & power spray off again. Then comes the CLAY BLOCK with either a lubricant or a spray mixture of Chemical Guys Mr. Pink. I take a lot of time with the BLOCK and so small sections at a time because I am constantly rinsing it off throughout the process (a money saver versus throwing away pieces of clay bars). Finishing off with a 2-bucket manual wash and power rinse. Then it's ready for a new ceramic coat. Whew... lot of steps for this biannual process but the paint finish is as smooth as a baby's bottom afterwards and there are no longer any additional scratches. Thankfully, regular washings are much quicker and easier thanks to the ceramic coating. Any suggestions or comments for this newbie from experienced detailers about my process?
I am with you 100%. I have been debating this for years. It only makes sense that if the clay bar lifts an embedded particle from the paint, then you are dragging that particle back and forth across the paint surface until you fold it into the clay and expose a fresh clay surface. Another angle- Car product manufacturers sell us "special" wash mits or sponges that supposedly lift the loose particles of contamination from the paint and bury them deep into the wash mit. Why? So these particles dont scratch the paint. Many recommend a 2 bucket wash process. Why? Because your wash mit lifts the contaminant particles and holds them in the mit. So the mit is then dipped in 2nd bucket to clear it of the contaminants. It's the same principle for a clay bar. And if the clay did not scratch the finish then they wouldn't be recommending polishing afterwards.
So in the "2 bucket" method; when rinsing the wash implement (mitt, sponge, microfiber pad, etc) what happens to the particles released in the 'clear' rinse water? Do the particles remain in suspension, only to RE-contaminate the mitt/pad? Do you avoid causing turbidity, if so - how? Some people use 2 buckets with those guard screens in the buckets. As to polishing after the 'controlled' scratching with the clay, the polish makes still smaller scratches. Body and paint work involves sanding or wet sanding with progressivity finer grit. I.e.: 1000 grit followed by 3000 etc. Same principle with clay then polish.
@@RichardFallstich The particles are generally heavy enough that they sink to the bottom. Of course nothing is perfect so there may be some floaters. But I never dip my wash brush toward the bottom of the bucket. Just enough to submerge it. Give it a few shakes and back out. I have the bucket guard but it is used to keep my wash brush off the bucket bottom when I am moving the bucket around, or relocating the water hose. Other than that the brush never dips down that far into ither bucket. As for turbidity, I actually pre-wash the vehicle by gently running one hand across the paint surface while the other hand is pointing a steady stream of water. Particles are instantly washed away and not ground in, and they dont remain on your clean hand. That alone removes most of the surface dirt. Then I go to the buckets. Both clay and polish will leave scratches. Theres a lot of variables with both. But clay-ing is most always followed by polishing, then a wax or sealcoat. Polishing can generally be followed by a sealant or wax.
a car painters damaged the paint of my new car (3 months) with spray paint dots, yesterday i used a blue clay bar, and removed all the paint dots on the crystals, i also used on a few metallic parts for test, with no visible scratches and the thing removed the spray dots. Should i continue using it on the entire car? Greetings.
My detailer suggested clay bar. The result on my 2017 black Pius was flawless. He says that only needs to be done once a year or so. I have him wax two to three times a year. I also have a black Toyota Tacoma Pre-runner. Both are beautiful after he gets done with them. I'm sold on the clay bar.
I’m just wondering if it’s cool for me to use light clay on a brand new black car to remove the factory contaminants. I really don’t expect there to be much at all.
Clay bars are the best pre-polish prepping tools available. Unfortunately, won’t work with DA polishers, but the process is very quick. They are the best at removing contaminant's, just don’t drop that bar. After that grab a light, or heavier cut compound & a 10mm DA/orbital polisher using an orange 5.5” pad for removing scratches, swirls, or any colored marks left by rogue shopping carts. Lastly, wax/seal using the same 10mm polisher with a black buffing pad, & any non abrasive polish of your choice.
It all depends on what the clay bar is made of. If it has abrasive in the clay it can mark the paint, if the clay picks up contaminants or dirt the dirt can mark the paint. Anything can mark your paint if there is dirt on the paint.
Exactly my feeling, if the clay is loosening micro debris ie: tar spots and sliding that debris across the surface it's gonna scratch. I guess it's how well we polish out those after that really matters.
I had to polish a black dodge challenger hellcat that was delivered right from the factory. It was delivered all scratched up I was still fairly new to polishing. So tall about anxiety lol.
It can definately mark your paint, but I've also clayed cars with no markings created. The key is light pressure and continual remolding on the clay, I've seen those clay towels they do the most damage out of any clay steer clear of those.
Not trying to argue but that's not quite accurate on clay towels. It's generally recognized by those of us who do this for $ that clay alternatives or just as good as clay. They also can be significantly faster. The BIG advantage is if you drop a clay bar it CAN NOT be used any longer. Mitts and towels, rinse off and you're ready to go. Also, never clay unless you're going to compound or polish afterwards. That will remove any marring caused by claying. Make sure when you clay that you use a good clay lube. Also the grade of clay is important. Fine can be used in many cases; medium grade is more "powerful" but marrs more.
So the clay bar doesn’t scratch it only the particles you pick up do? That’s the exact same as a microfibre towel or a sponge or a wash mit, if you use it properly it won’t do any damage
Hey Darren question when you mean by scratching your paint with clay bar as in deep scratches, and if I just want to wax it right after clay baring can you use a cleaner wax
We had (two) new 1 year old white vehicles professionally clay barred to remove white boat paint overspray. Now both vehicles are scratched and have swirls. Easily seen on the white paint when the sun is shining on them. -- Now to correct this problem (caused by the abrasive clay bar process) I'm assuming that the vehicles need to be washed, some kind of abrasive polishing steps done, then some kind of a sealant protection applied? -- Can you tell me if this is the correct way to now (restore) the vehicles after the abrasive processes? -- I'm guessing that after using the abrasive clay bar process and then the abrasive polishing process that this has compromised the clearcoat which means the clearcoat won't do its job to protect the vehicles for as many years as it would have had the abrasive clay bar process not been done on them. I understand there's another way to remove boat paint overspray using a sanding process which I'm told would have been a better way to go. -- I've read about having a ceramic coating put on for the sealer. What's your opinion on using that to prolong the life of the clearcoat now that its been compromised? -- I'm (not looking for an easy fix or a way to cover up the problem) caused by the clay bar process. What I'm looking for is a way to restore the vehicles back to what they were before the overspray and the clay bar damage. Thank you very much for any help with this. Cindy
I'm not an expert, but from my understanding you'll need to polish the car with an appropriate strength polish- I'm not sure of the exact word but the term for sandpaper is grit and that's the closest thing that I know of. Menzerna is a really good brand, they have three series, 1,000, 2,000, and 3,000 the lower the number the higher the cutting power so you'll have to determine how deep the scratches are first- you'll probably need to start at 1,000 or 2,000 because the 3,000 series has very little cutting power if used properly. Most detailers use an orbital buffer but this can potentially make the situation even worse, it's easier to mess up paint with a buffer than clay because it's electric powered and spins very rapidly so it can pick up small contaminants very quickly, or just the friction with the polish alone can leave circular marks on the car. The idea is to start out at the lower number before moving on to the next series- so if you use 1,000 then you have to use 2,000 and then 3,000 or if you just use 3,000 then that's all you need.
Dont do it again. Just think mate. What the claybar does? It moves out the grits that stucked into the paint. Mostly iron piece that scratches the paint further as you go along. The removed grits rolling between the claybar and the paint like you a piece of sand. Wash your car, dry it. Spray it with iron remover, help to sitribute it evenly with a big soft paintbrush. Then rinse it, remove the tar and polish it. Clay bar is BS.
I'm going to try a clay bar for the first time on a 2011 black Escape. I currently have some debris on the hood that won't come off with normal wash/wax process. My question is; can I use my existing Nu Finish liquid polish as the "polish" step after the clay bar? Or should I get yet another true dedicated polishing product? Nu Finish is considered a polish, but is it the proper type of polish for a post clay treatment? Thanks.
I should´ve watched your video before using the claybar on my mini cooper. However, you're right. Got some scratches...very small and I got angry at first...but paint got softer that a nun´s butt...and now I have to get rid off the marring...Anyways...ups and downs with the bar.
You’re 100% correct. I have noticed this I have a modern day cleaner pad which they say is clear but it’s actually plastic of some sort on a white sponge type frame which fits in the hand a disk shape item works really well better than using the club had been so small and you can wash off any contaminants were with the clay it in bed its self in the clay. That also adds to scratching with the clay pad where the plastic ones not meant to but the plastic one you still get scuff marks I noticed. But thank you for opening the view is eyes to these fallacies fallacies
21 years now I been telling my customers claying do some scratching and I polish the car after and remove the scratches before waxing. It's all good for me. Just some extra work I do.
I always use a spray wax with clay it’s what most manufacturers state it doesn’t scratch as bad as most polishes or microfiber clothes. Even checked with microscope on my own cars and customers cars if surface prep isn’t done right I could see you’re point but through extreme testing it’s just as bad for you’re paint as most other products
@@Velo1010 this works great and I’m about to do it tomorrow on my Mercedes’ e350 2008. The setup will be a normal contact wash and using the same car soap( chemicals guys pink) in a 8 water to 1 soap ratio in a spray bottle as a “clay lube“ then finally going to hand compound and polish it using meguiars ultimate compound and polish !:)
So my question is what would I do or use to decontaminate my new 2020 Grand Cherokee in Sting ray grey ? I would like to prep it for a ceramic protectant and make sure I give the new stuff a good clean base ... Thank You
Jeff Benedict thank you Jeff, I just watched and I have come to terms that I will use up my supply of McQuires products and then transition into some newer products ... There is a Chemical Guys retail store nearby and the manager there basically said the same thing instead of pushing me to replace and buy from him , which I appreciated... Have a good day and thanks for the info sir !! VMan
Vaulter check out ammo detailing guides, this guy is a perfectionist when it comes to detailing, clay bar is pretty much like doing surgery it’s last resort I would say and you said new grand Cherokee. If it’s new all your contaminates are probably just imbedded in the clear coat. Best of luck 🤞
Well I wish you would added what you use to deep contaminate a car. Great piece on clay bars O can you please add what you use to decontaminate your car
I use after fall out and tar spot removal. Before polish. I just foam the car again and have a soapy mitt to hand. Just slide left to right and fold. Best tip from me is cut the bar in small pieces and leave them in a cup of hot water. Becomes more malleable to work with. Wash your hands don't drop the clay.
So we should use the clay bar, and expect scratches on dark cars. We should also polish and wax the vehicle afterwards to correct any issues. That's what I took away at least.
So I have a couple of wash mitts. I use one for the body of the car and one for the wheels. My concern is that I have gotten them mixed up in the wash. Question is, if there were any iron deposits on the wash mitts after washing wheels, will those iron particle safely come off when I wash the mitts in the wash machine? If not, I don't want to risk using a contaminated mitt on the car paint and causing micro scratches over times.
Honesty = Subscription. Thanks man. So if my car has sat out in a hot climate for 13 years and has only had rare occasional washes or had me hose it off, what is the best way to go about decontaminating my paint? I was planning on using a clay bar or clay towel and then using Griot's compound and Meguiar's polish. I've had no experience with any of this, and have a dark gray ride.
That's a tough one, I would think it's past the point of clay bar at 13 yrs of heat. Might be better to clean and then have someone buff it out, then throw on a nice wax. IMO
Do a test panel. Paint correct it to the point it has no scratches, leave it out in the open elements, than with time do a clay bar and see for yourself then if it scratches or not. You will see micro marring to the point that only if you focused real good and know wat your looking for. It's not gona scratch like if you were taking a piece of 600grit sand paper. But it will have micro marring.
What am I missing regarding the statement about "metal in composition?" Definition of composition metal: a cast copper alloy containing usually more than 80 percent copper together with tin, lead, and zinc." Those elements: (copper tin lead zinc) are typically not ferrous. Ferrous metal is usually iron, and all steel alloys may use iron blended with small amounts of elements such as carbon, chromium, nickel, manganese, manganese, or various others. [I had classes in metallurgy/material sciences.] How does this composition (whatever it is) affect the use of the clay bars for surface decontamination?
Don't overanalyze it with percentages of this or that. I believe he was stating that one type of contamination is "composed" of metal. And then he immediately referred to brake dust as an example, which is mostly ferrous in composition. So to answer your question, a clay bar will cause more scratching when it picks up brake dust versus picking up pollen or bird droppings.
@@steadyeddie7453 Don't overanalyze it?!?!? This guy presents an 11+ minute diatribe with a lot of vague terminology and misinformation. THAT'S overanalyzing. He claims to be a "professional detailer." What exactly is that? He does not seem to know the trade of auto painting.
its not a big problem a claybar scratching your car right? Cause in the correct way you will only use claybay pre-polishing your car so all the contamination is gone and the surface is smooth. Am I right????
HI best ever is to use Bilt Hamber clay fr UK they have their own clay mine ! avail in S , M, H grades it is so pure they say and it is TRUE ! you can use just plain water for lube ! ! try it let me know what you think ? and update your video w/an addendum ? thx Jack
My clay with using lot of lube, scratched my car paint and left deep scratches (it is a black car). Completely brand new clay. I went ballistic when I saw that.
I'm a complete amateur but keen on learning best methods to clean my pride and joy (BLACK Audi) Brother in Law recommends mid range clay bar and quality lubricant (AutoGlym Detailer spray)...Ok before I start what are your thoughts on alternatives such as putty which I notice contains linseed oil, is this a good idea or complete NoNo?
