Auto to Manual Locking Hubs, Plus Bearings on a Squarebody Chevy - Vortex Garage Ep. 22 

Great video, but the thing you forgot, and alot of people don't do is when you got the rotor off take the backing plate off and pull the spindle sleeve off and there is a needle bearings in the back of the spindle sleeve. These need cleaned on greased. Alot of folks don't do that or even know about it. Then what could happen is they dry out and start to put a groove on your axle and could snap your axle in worse case. Just letting you know .thanks

Still a great video. For anyone else that was collecting part numbers like I was, I found the inner bearing and race is Timken SET82 (LM104949 - JLM104910) combo if you didn't want to track down individually, just like the SET45 outer bearing/race kit. I hope that helps someone!

Great video. Just a suggestion though include the part numbers in the description for convenient reference do appreciate the beginning showing each part and part number. Timken Seal 471271 Timken Set 45 Outer bearing and Race (LM501310 & LM501349) Timken Inner Bearing LM104949 Timken Inner Race JLM104910

Good Video. Your snap ring pliers look universal. If you change the position of the pivot screw you should be able to reverse them so you can squeeze them to open a snap ring.

I noticed when you backed off the bearing adjuster nut the second time you didn't back it off enough. You backed it 90 degrees the first time which is 1/4 turn back. But when you backed it off after 35 lbs you were suppose to go 3/8 but didn't even go a 1/4 turn. 3/8 is more than a 1/4 turn on my tape measure. And when did the big spring go in? At least you know people are paying attention, eh.

FYI, if you just need to remove the hub assembly you do not need to remove the first retaining ring you removed and pop up the big spring. You just have to remove the bridge (keeper) and the retainer with the needle nose pliers and voilà! :-D

Thanks for this video. Quick question when you mount the inner wheel bearing seal do you just tap it in until flush to the back of the rotor or do you go in a little deeper?

Holy shit. Maybe for others like him that want to change the hubs for as he said extra strength or shit like less wear and tear. How about the most important Reason please!!! They are Reliable. If you don’t understand or you disagree whatever, You’ll change your mind when the auto locking fails when you need it.

Outstanding video! Thanks for making this. Very helpful. I'm doing this this weekend. I wasn't going to do the bearings, but after watching this, I'm feeling a lot more confident about it. Not as bad as I thought it was. Subscribed.

Best bearing swap vid I've seen yet! Guess what my next weekend project is... thanks Vortex Garage!

Instead of adding any lube to the outside of the race you can throw it in the freezer for about an hour before doing the job and it will go in really easy then as it warms back to room temp it will seat really nice in place. Great video

Man I cannot thank you enough for doing this super detailed video on this procedure. There is so much in valuable information that you have packed in here that a lot of other RU-vidrs don’t bother to include. I am so glad the allocated your video. Now if I could find one that you did on replacing the ball joints on these trucks, that would be just fantastic!! 😁😁😁👍🏻👍🏻

You didn't go deep enough you didn't replace the short axle needle bearing and seals.

What a great video... Thank you so much for showing step-by-step on changing out the hubs and bearings.

I like how you didn’t edit everything and you pointed out every little thing. Learned a lot thanks!

I don't think the holes change when the washer with holes is flipped over. There's only one tab so when it's turned over so it's still the same hole orientation.

great demonstration I really learned a lot from your void thanks

Word of wisdom from my experience: if buy an old truck check these as soon as possible. Most of mine have loose locking axle nuts...scary.

Read instructions to snap ring pliers they work better lol smh

Thank you so much for this highly detailed video. You do an amazing job! Please keep the Squarebody Chevy videos coming.

Move your snap ring pliers over to the other hole so when you squeeze them the jaws open not close.

So if the inner spindle nut or either spindle nut isn't tight enough, will that leave you with less room to work with? My pickup is an 83 gmc and i'm replacing the lockouts which were manual already. But i can't get the new ones to slide in far enough to get the outer ring to seat properly.

in the back of the spindle theres a very important needle axel shaft bearing which needs servicing every vtime you pack the wheel bearings !!! otherwise a pretty good video

I just watched this video and finished my Dana 44 build on my 78 Scottsdale 4x4. This video was instrumental in figuring out the outer bearing and lock nut install. I installed my Mile Marker hubs and it when in flawlessly. I so appreciate this!! MK

How on God's green earth were you able to prevent the socket from slipping off the locking nut while torquing it to 160 lbs. ?????

Very useful video, I'm about to do that job. By the way, there was a retainer ring on the axle, you actually fought with it at around 13:13 :)

I would be curious to have a ballpark idea what this costs in parts. Good thorough video.

I'm unsure what you filmed this with. But the quality of the video is crazy good! Super helpful video. Need to do bearings in my '82 K10 this week. In Maine. In the door yard haha 😂 not too much fun lol. But surely watchin this video is helping a ton, as well as I took notes on all the part numbers for the bearings, seals, & races. Thank you!!

3/8 is more than a quarter turn... so it’s more 135 degrees, video goes with 1/8 of turn

I wish all the how to videos on RU-vid were this good. 😉👍🏻👍🏻

Very nice job. This was by far one of the most complete and informative videos I've seen regarding these hubs. Two thumbs up!!!

45:00 That is incorrect. The factory service manual from Chevrolet says to back it off 3/8 turn MAXIMUM. What is most important is that the end play of the hub/Rotor assembly be between 0.001 to 0.010 inch. Just shell out the $110 and ignore these know-it-alls

Awesome video, thank you. The first nut in front on the outer bearing behind my first washer is not a spindle nut, there are no grooves to fix a socket onto? Its just a perfect circle and has to holes across from each other on the front side, does anyone know what kind of tool I would use to get that out? Thank you

Currently watching this video again as I now have everything ready to go this morning

The back-off from the 35 ft lb torque was nowhere near 3/8 of a turn in this video, and it’s not supposed to be. 3/8 is the MAX specified by GM, and even that is far too much. Ideally, it should be around 1/8 of a turn, or 1/16… just enough to line up the locating pin.

Would this be same job for a 1989 suburban v1500 ?? Since it's still a squarebody

Thank-you for the video. The OSB Ford is very similar. BTW, that is not how to pack bearings by hand.

how do you know how to do all of this work and do not know how to use your snap rings pliers?

Incredible I have 94 f150 5.84x4 is same . I'm go auto parts and Ford disconnected

3/8 of a turn is almost 180 degrees, you set that preload way too much as you only turned it 1/8 of a turn.

Why won’t the hub go all the way on my spindle

not to be a jerk but.... 90° is a 1/4" ( 2/8) turn. 3/8 would be more than.that. you went about 45°

Is this video in regards to doing this install on a GM 10-bolt axle? Thank you so much.

and you don't know what 3/8 of a turn is, do you. you did more of a 3/16

Hey on your lock ring plyers that lillle bolt you can unscrew it and put in other hole so you can sqeeze the plyers instead of pulling plyers apart

Awesome video . thank you you were very clear and explained everything . thanks again

You didn't remove the spindle and repack the axle to spindle bearing! You did wobble the axle and commented very often over looked causing the axle to wear prematurely.

Very good video! This has definitely helped me better understand exactly what I need to do to replace my bearing!

How do I remove a 1986 Toyota 4-runner automatic lockout hub

How do I remove a 1986 Toyota 4-runner automatic lockout hub

How do I remove automatic lockout hub on a 1986 Toyota 4-runner .

You backed it off 3/16 not 3/8th. Does that matter?

I need some help finding a 1973 GMC K25 3/4 ton 8 lug hub

Hi, I don't want to start an online argument about full time vs part time 4x4, and I apologize if your video already covered this. It was a very long video, and I easily could have missed it if you already answered this question. If a person wanted to go from part time to full time 4x4, how difficult would it be to remove the manual locking hubs and go to a flat look like on the back wheels? I have a k5 blazer, not a k10 truck like in the video, if that matters.

Did you not put the snap ring back on after the locking nut?

Isn't 3/8ths of a turn 135 deg? 1/8=45deg 2/8th (1/4th)=90deg, so 3/8th=135deg. The wrench should have turned half way between 90 and 180deg. Think I would do the 50lbft of torque, back off 90deg and just leave it at that. Very good video though, I enjoyed it very much.

I didn't read all the comments/questions/snarky remarks/ jokes or concerns. I was under the impression that there was a collar in the transfer case that had to be switched from a solid to a split collar. Plus the locking hubs. I've got a '79 Chev 1/2 ton/auto, 205 transfer case. To go to 4WD, I put the tranny in neutral, move the transfer case to desired location and switch back into gear. Just so I'm clear, it's possible to put JUST locking hubs in and achieve the goal? Or is there more too it? Also, If I'm just going from full time to locking hubs, can I just stop at the outer nut? Or do I need to do bearings and seals? I get that it's good to start with new components and guts, but as a first timer, this would be an all day project for me. GREAT video. Thanks.

What an Excellent how to video. I cant wait to do this job on my new old GMC truck I bought.

I followed this video today to change my hubs out. This video is OUTSTANDING. He goes step - by - step on how to do this & literally leaves NOTHING out. I was able to do mine with no issues whatsoever. This video from Vortex is where it’s at. Two thumbs way up. 👍🏻👍🏻

Torque for axle nuts: Inner: 50 ft-lb while turning hub back and forth, back off 90 degrees. Then 35 ft-lbs while turning hub, back off about 1/4 turn. Install washer with holes and adjust nut until it's peg goes into a washer hole. Outer: 190 ft-lbs.

Wtf 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 I just ruinininit everything man where have you been

You know that 3/8 is more than 1/4? 90° is 1/4 turn. 3/8 is 135° which is more than the 90° that you backed off.

Great video! Would this be the same set up for a 74 K5?

Will these parts work for a 1986 gmc k1500

Certain GM applications do not require the spindle nuts. Those are the same hubs I took off my truck and I didn't require them. But if your on a budget check with your local 4X4 shop for what applications require them

How are you getting the inner spindle nut off? Mine just spins and spins and spins, moving the entire axle with it and not getting and looser.

Excellent! Thank you! 74 K5 Blazer

the way I've always packed bearings is to pack it in from the bottom until it squeezes out the top. do that all the way around and you can be sure it's fully packed.

Fantastic video! I'm very comfortable now swapping and doing the full service based on this great narrative.

I have a 79 K10 full time, can i just install the lockouts or do i need to do the mods to the transfer case as well? its an NP203

Great thoroughness, thank you so much!

Amazing video. Thanks buddy

What size is the spindle nut socket? @vortex garage im about to start mine this weekend. Great video!

A few minutes in the freezer for the races and a few minutes on the hub with a heat gun and the races almost fall in. Then expand and they’re home.

Yeah so mine was so far gone that I didn’t even have to take out the nuts with notches, the whole thing just kinda came off…

Those pliers are made to go either way if you adjust them accordingly.

Excellent video, VG. Is the procedure for replacing manuals with better manuals the same as going from auto to manual, as you're demonstrating here? I just traded my pickkup to my son-in-law for his 1/981 Jeep CJ-7 with a Dana 30 front axle. My problem with the Jeep is that sometime in the past, someone put different manufacturers manuals on the thing. Off brand ones. I want to put a pair of Warn heavy=duty manuals on because I really like the Warns. I've had them on a couple of trucks in the distant past and LIKED them. I will also replace all of the bearings and seals while at it. I plan to supervise my son and let him do the job. I'm teaching him how to do mechanic work, house plumbing & electrical work so he can be self=sufficient. He's not a young'un, but is in his late 30s and a very fast learner. This is something I've not done before so I'll be learning, too. Thanks for all you're doing and have a Blessed Day.

Do you have to replace those races on the rotor? Or you have to replace them if you go from automatic to manual hubs?

I don't know how far to drive in that outer seal?

1st bearing doesn’t come out that easy but okay

Outstanding video! Thanks for making this. Very helpful.

I would have replaced the rotor as well if your doing this to both sides (as i would expect)....

Thanks for a detailed explanation and video. You gave the part numbers for the bearings. What is the part number on the seals?

Why go from auto to locking what the deal with that

great video. I did this replacement years ago without the video. my warn hub may have gone out. this is a great refresher

49:39 sounds like a bomb went off in the distance

How are those latex gloves working for you? Great video/info!

I have an 89 1500 Suburban and have started to do some work on it myself,I have had so called mechanics work on it or said they did with miserable results and extra money leaving my pocket for nothing, I am extremely nervous about working on the truck but with the video so well explained I will do it myself,thank you for your time.

Vortext garage you are the man. I swear if I ever meet you, I am going to buy you a beer. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Do you have to put the spindle nuts and the locking ring in inorder for the hubs to work

This was an excellent guide to change my 4x4 Suburban's front wheel bearings. Thank you very much!

Thank you great video,I'm glad you didn't do much editing,It's better just doing what you did thanks again👍👍👍

Thanks for not making it look easy peasy

Hello Sir i need that two Torque Wrench model number pls ??

Was very helpful. Thought we were doing something wrong on an ‘83 K-5 Blazer with the spindle not sticking out enough. Didn’t have trouble with ‘87-88 Blazers. Appreciate you pointing out the differences in year models. 👍🇺🇸

I did not see you put the spring back? Is that because manual locking hubs do not need the springs? Great video by the way. I have a 1989 K5 that I am going to replace the front rotors and this video helped immensely.

Awesome video hairy armed man. I’m going to ditch my auto hubs .

What size spindle socket do I need?

Yes thanks dude. Good job this has helped with my 83 K5 👏

doesn't look like a 10 bolt to me remember growing up, you could spot a mechanic by his hands, permanently stained from all the grease and oil in every pour. Gloves have made that part of the job a lot nicer.