This was such a great explanation of how these clutches work. When you try to research how automatic transmissions operate, people tend to focus on the planetary gears. As a learner I find that part easy to understand, to me the perplexing part has been to understand exactly how clutches lock and unlock the rotating parts. This, finally, is the explanation I have been interested in for at least 40 years. (ha, that was hard to say out loud) Anyway, thank you for this very clear demonstration.
Yes bands are different. Bands wrap around a drum much like putting a strap around a drum. Bands do not connect two rotating object but instead hold a rotating object to the transmission housing. This creates what we call a reaction member and this provides a specific gear ratio from the planetary gearset. If you have ever used or seen a strap wrench it's something like that but we don't turn anything and instead we hold it stationary. I will put the idea of a video about bands on my to do list.
Fantastic detailed explanation. Too many other videos I've watched just gloss over the clutch pack. Amazing to think that the small teeth on those friction clutches that engage with the splined collar are actually driving the vehicle
You rock! Now I understand how outer hub gears are meshed to a seperate inner gear, through the use of splined slippage plates that are hydraulically pressed together, theirfor unifying the steel plates meshed with the outer hub, to the inner friction plates which are meshed with the inner ring gear, theirfore tying the outer hub gear to the seperate inner gear, when the clutch plates are frictionally pressed together, by a hydraulic piston. What an ingenious idea. I really appreciate your teaching and demonstration skills. Thank you so much!
That was very helpful, so my take is that most sports and racing cars would benefit the best with this for cornering. Had to research the inventor of the Clutch Pack (Adolphe Kégresse in 1939 for Citroen). Just an amazing mechanical feat.
You sparked my interest so I looked up Adolphe and all I could find on transmissions is that the developed the AutoServe gearbox-transmission system which was a dual Clutch system. I couldn't find anything about the hydraulic wet clutch or any specifics about the AutoServe gearbox-transmission system and how it works.
Thanks for the great visual explanation! I hope this question isn't too stupid, but when you apply the brakes and put the car in drive, this clutch pack is clearly not engaged as the car does not move. I'm guessing they just barely slip due to the resistive brake pressure. So, as you press the accelerator, is that tied to more hydraulic pressure to the clutch pack through some sort of valve or is it automatic due to RPMs? I guess my question is, what drives that hydraulic pressure into the clutch pack?
So when you move the shifter into drive or possible reverse (depending on which clutch pack we are talking about) the clutch if fully applied. There are often multiple clutch packs that get applied and released at specific times to change the gear ratios. This specific clutch pack in the video is fully applied as soon as the car is put into drive or low 1st or low 2nd. In any event the reason the vehicle doesn't stall or drive away when you take your foot off the brake is due to the operation of the torque converter. You can learn about torque converters by my video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PxyjjgHeDAA.html
Sealing rings provide a method to maintain hydraulic pressure into the clutch drum while the clutch drum is rotating. Not all sealing ring are split but there are two reasons for the split. First is that it makes it easy to install them and second it offers a small hydraulic leak for lubrication. The small leak offers lubrication to the rotating parts.
Thank you very much for the detailed video. Can you Please send me the part number for a 2008 Escape 3.0 litre cluthe pack. My escape quite driving very sudden with no warning shoots. Thank you very much.
Every Transmission has several clutch packs and some vehicles have more than one transmission model. The most cost efficient way is to remove and disassemble the transmission to find out exactly what parts are needed to restore it to functionality. If you do have a burned up clutch pack it will be noticeable by a dark colored fluid and the fluid will smell burnt. The only way the fluid won't be dark or smell burnt from a burned up clutch pack is if someone changed the fluid before you had a chance to inspect it. There are different levels of overhaul kits starting with ones that only have gaskets and seals to ones that include all the clutch pack and maybe even a band if the trans has one.
Is there a way I can donate to your channel. You helped me quite a bit lot with lot of tech info. Thanks again. Last question is it ok to start the car when cv axle is out on jack stand. Also is it ok to tow car without cv axle but with wheel on hub and control arm
I don't have a donate feature setup so for now the only thing would be my paypal account. If you really want to donate email me directly and I will send you my paypal information. If the axles are out when you start the engine you risk oil spilling out where the axles go. I would not tow the vehicle with the axles out. The axles help to hold the wheel bearing together. The wheel bearing could become damaged if you tow the vehicle without the axles installed and the axle nut torqued.
@@DrivelineMaster hi I started the car today and I see that transmission oil is leaking between engine and transmission matting part. Does that mean I have broken the oil pump
Great visualization, I now understand how when relaxed the steels and friction disks pass each other, but grab when pressure is applied. Something still eludes me: is the piston simply a plate that receives high pressure fluid (continually when a valve opens) to press the friction disks and steels against each other?
Yes, you could say the piston is a uniquely designed circular plate. It has to be a specific thickness with machining that accommodates the seals, return springs and any other attribute that needs to be engineered into it. The video shows one piston design as an example. That example has a very unique engineering design. Yes, there is a control valve that opens and closes off hydraulic fluid pressure into and out of the apply port to the piston. Your question reminded me that I have an animation that shows this and it might make a good RU-vid video. If I get some time I will make that video and post it. If I get this done within the next few weeks I will email you back with the link.
I can see how the term "piston" can make it difficult to visualize just what part is the piston. Sure doesn't look like any piston I have seen before. Calling it a pressurized ring clamp is a bit more descriptive. Linus Yale Sr. called the pin tumblers in his first lock design of 1844 "pistons".
Unfortunately anything cylindrical with a cylindrical object that moves linear within a cylinder in the world of Automotive technology is refereed to as a piston. I have been involved in Automotive all my life and I could not even imagine a piston in any other circumstance. The most common example is the piston that is used in the internal combustion engine. In an automatic transmission the piston is moved by hydraulic and spring force as compared to combustion forces in an engine. Pneumatic's which is the movement with air pressure also uses cylinders with pistons. I know this doesn't help but if I called it a ring clamp there is no clamping of anything taking place and a ring implies something round that goes around something. No one in the Automotive world would know what I was talking about. I could call it a cylindrical linear moving disc which might help non-automotive people but the automotive people would then write to me to tell me to call it a piston so I can't win. So I have to stick the proper Automotive terminology and hope that others can catch on.
@@DrivelineMaster Wow! I was only describing the difficulty that some might have in visualizing the part. Based on your description then the valves in the valve body should be called pistons. Lighten up dude.
Sorry if you felt I was a little to serious. I was just trying to explain. Yes, you could make that case for the spool valves that are in the valve body. Light enough?
On this model the input shaft or turbine shaft is welded to the clutch pack drum however on other models it could be splined. I have never seen any input/turbine shafts bolted to any transmission drums, gears or one way clutches.
I've got a 2022 xpro 125cc china bike that has a semi auto transmission. I tightened the adjuster nut on the outside of the case to help increase friction. The problem I am still having is that when you get on it 3/4 throttle or more the bike wants to rev up and you can tell its slipping. The bike has less than 10 hours and I use fully synthetic oil. Is there anything I can do to fix this issue? Maybe swap with a better name brand clutch? Thanks. Great videos!
I'm sorry but I don't know anything about this semi auto trans or how it works. I did a quick search but I couldn't find an information. If I had a repair manual I might be able to advise you. If it's a wet clutch similar to what I describe in this video there is a very close relationship with the friction material and the type of fluid. If you use the wrong fluid there won't be enough friction between the disks to hold the torque and the clutch will slip. If the bike does not call for synthetic oil I would not use it. There may be an oil designation or type they you need to use. Without knowing how it works for sure I can't accurately advise you.
Hi i am replacing 2013 toyota camry LE engine today in my drive way, while doing that i have to remove CV axle and Torque converter to replace the seal. While doing so, I see that lot of fluid came out from cv axle, becasue drive way is little on the hill side, sitting sligthly slanding. Question 1. I know how to refill the sealed transmission. I have scan tool that tell me the temperature of ATF at around 110 f , moment it starts trickling i have to stop. Does this work when i dont know how much fluid is lost. 2. without knowing how much fliuid is lost, not sure how many quarts i should add. 3. Does CV axle will loose lot of fluid? 4. Since it is rebuild engine , is it ok to start the car before filling the ATF fluid for 5 minutes or so.. 5. Troque converter have lost ATF because i kept on different angle. i am plannning to fill torque converter filled with ATF(all oem fluid) to neck line or all the way to top. quesiton is if i change torque converter do i need to fill it all the way too top.. Thanks a bilionn..
That transaxle holds about 8 quarts. Don't run the engine if you know the transmission is low on fluid. I would not fill up the converter with oil. If you do this you will make a mess when you put it back onto the transmission. Better to have it overfilled than under filled when you first start your new/used engine. Estimate how much you think you lost. I doubt it was more than 2 quarts unless you drained the pan. Put the 1 - 2 quarts of oil into the transmission through the fill hole before starting the engine. Have your fill device ready to add more fluid quickly if needed. Have the plug on the pan that is used for checking the level gently snug so it will be easy to remove. Have your scan tool ready to read ATF fluid temp. Start your engine and after about 2 - 3 minutes of running use the shifter to shift through the gears. If you don't feel engagement add some more ATF. Wait about another 1-2 minutes and then try the shifter again. Once you feel engagement into all gears return the shifter to park and remove the oil level plug and wait 20-30 seconds. If there is excess let it run out. If it doesn't run out add fluid until it runs out. Put the level check plug back in finger tight. Now watch your ATF termp.on the scan tool. When it reaches the correct temp. remove the level checking plug and check for oil trickling out. If it doesn't trickle out add fluid until it trickles out. If there was excessive fluid let it run out until it just trickles out. Then insert the level check plug and properly tighten it. NOTE! be careful because when you first remove the level check plug a burst of oil might come out making you think it was over filled. Remove the level check plug and wait 30 seconds for the true level reading. When your done use a new crush washer on the fill plug and install and properly tighten the fill plug. That should do it.
@@DrivelineMaster fantastic much appreciated Sir. One last question I found hard time aligning dowel pin of engine to transmission any tips is very helpful. Yesterday I realized that torque converter is not fully seated. I figured that out today it should fully seat in oil pump not just one click stupid rookie mistake so I took engine out and redid that. After putting engine to transmission when I turn crankshaft using ratchet and if I keep my finger where starter goes should torque converter rotates as well. Just want to make sure nothing is binding
When you first get the transmission bolted to the engine you should be able to rotate the torque converter with a finger either through the starter or any other access point. Next you will need to bolt the converter to the flex plate/flywheel. These bolts are especially short. Do not substitute any other bolt for these bolts. Hopefully you didn't damage anything when you bolted the trans to the engine without the converter being properly installed. I have seen trans pumps broken this way. There is no special trick to aligning the dowel pins. Just clean the pins and the holes they align with and apply a little grease on the pin and the hole. When you put the torque into the transmission there are 3 sets of splines or notches that have to be aligned. The input shaft into the turbine, the stator spines into the stator and the cut outs on the converter hub with the oil pump tabs. The converter housing should be recessed from the bell housing by about 1/2".
@@DrivelineMaster thanks much just put the engine and trans together. I can turn crankshaft freely I am yet to connect torque converter to flywheel. I don’t have enough access to rotate torque converter so I am planning to connect flywheel to torque converter and will rotate crank shaft manually and see if torque converter rotates. Will that work please
@@DrivelineMaster seems like when I rotate crnakshaft torque converter is also rotating so I can’t align bolt holes to put bolt does that mean torque converter is not all the way in
There are multiple clutch packs in a transmission. Some have bands and One Way Clutches that can go out. Most 6 speeds and above don't have bands but without knowing your vehicle specifics I can't tell you much more. Honda and Acura's typically use one clutch pack for each gear so you could have a 5th gear clutch pack that is slipping while all the others are working just fine. The more it slips the worse it will get which will burn up the fluid and damage other transmission components. Changing the fluid on a slipping transmission will only make it slip worse.
It appears that this transmission has at least 5 different clutch packs. If you give me an exact year, make and model of vehicle I will look up some more info and try to help you.
i was truly having a hard time visualizing how the the piston pushed the clutch pack and held the planetary. i was like does the pressure alone hold it. then you explained that the notches snagged the ring gear when pressurized. another question, how are the pinions held in the planetary gear set and the sun gear for that matter.
You might find these two videos helpful. If you still have questions after viewing these videos write back and I will answer. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l3LK9pVVSLI.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-j7mTL5M4Ino.html
Unless they are defective or there is an original design flaw they can last a very long time with a little fluid service maintenance. I recommend a fluid service every 60K miles regardless if the factor says longer. 25K to 30K if your vehicle has a CVT transmission. Only use OE approved fluid.
The transmission in my 2005 Jeep Liberty is jerky in 3rd & 4th worse when cold. Also very jerky when you select D, P, N or R from the parked position. Fluid and filters plus all sensors have been changed. Could it be the clutch pack that is at fault? Thanks 🙏
Jerky could be many things. Is it just that the engagement is harsh and jerks you a bit when shifting from P or N into D or R? also when changing gears is it a single harsh or firm jerk going into the next gear? Or jerky where you have several jerks right in a row during the changing of gears and or while accelerating? This is often called a shudder. If it's the first one described again several things can cause this but if it happens in every gear two things come to mind. Something is wrong with the pressure regulation and there is excessive main pressure known as line pressure. Or the wrong fluid was installed. Some shops will use a generic fluid with an additive package which doesn't work in my book. Make sure ATF +4 fluid was used. It doesn't have to be Jeep brand but it must be labeled ATF + 4. I also checked for Technical Service Bulletins for jerky shifting but there were none. Which engine do you have. the 2.8L uses the 5 speed 545RFE and the 3.7L uses the 4 speed 42RLE transmission.
@@DrivelineMaster Thanks for the advice. I have the 2.8 CRD. Stationary, it thumps when you select a gear. When driving its fine through first and second and then thumps into third giving a jerk then a similar effect into fourth but not quite as severe. After a journey of say 40+ miles it’s almost gone. During the recent transmission service we used the correct filters and fluids as you recommended.
One question. When the fluid was changed was a machine used to exchange all the fluid or was just the fluid in the pan replaced? A full exchange may help but it sounds like you have internal transmission problems that a fluid service will not solve. I would however start with a fluid pressure test. A scan tool can check the pressures but if the sensor is defective it could be reporting the wrong pressure. A pressure test adapter and a quality pressure gauge is needed to verify the proper pressure and that the sensor is reporting the proper pressure to the computer. If your lucky there will be an inconsistency that can be corrected by replacing the sensor. If it's not the sensor you most likely have more sever internal problems. I think you need a professional who can properly diagnose this problem. One last thought. You could have a computer or wiring issue or the computer needs updating. Unfortunately this is beyond what I can do for you over the internet.
@@DrivelineMaster Thanks for the advice. Just for clarification. The sump was dropped to empty the fluid and replace both filters. A new pressure sensor has been installed. I will locate a professional to check the problem. 🙏
Before I can give you some possibilities I need to know a few answers. When you say it won't shift out of first does that mean that you still have engine power being sent to the drive wheel and when you let up on the accelerator pedal you can feel engine braking? or does it feel like your transmission goes into a neutral state where the engine RPM's rev up but no power is transmitted to the drive wheels?
Hoping to get a quick response here because I have an exam tomorrow. Say you found a faulty clutch pack, took it apart and only noticed one friction disk was out of spec. Would you replace the entire assembly? Or simply replace the single friction disk? We have measuring tools for a reason, but I don't know what the preferred method is, or if there's a specific reason to replace the whole thing as one rather than replacing individual parts. I know that a company will likely replace the whole thing because it costs labour, and just because something is within spec, doesn't mean that it will be for much longer. Especially with our dirty little fingers in there introducing contamination. When I was in school though, we learned how to measure each disk individually. So what's the sense in doing that if we always replace the entire assembly in the real world?
Here is the thing. There typically are no thickness specifications for the disks. One disk never wears out or becomes out of spec. If you take a clutch pack apart it will either be in good condition or completely burned up. All disks will be damaged. What matters is not so much the individual thicknesses of each disk or steel but the measurement of the clutch pack clearance or piston movement. It all depends on how the manufacture measures the clearance. It is perfectly acceptable to have friction disks of various sizes such as .070", .072", .068", .074" in one clutch pack as long as the total clutch pack clearance is within specifications, that is all that matters. The same goes for the steel plates. Steel plates can become discolored from heat but only from a clutch pack that has been running hot form burned up friction disks from the factory. a properly working clutch pack can go 90K + miles and be taken apart and the technician can still read the numbers stamped on the friction disk. That is because the disks really don't make contact with the steels. The thin film of oil is what creates the friction and adhesion between the two.I hope this helps with your exam. I'm sorry I didn't get to this until late tonight.
@@DrivelineMaster You got to me right on time! Thank you so much for the detailed response. When she goes, she goes. It makes sense that you would measure the total application range rather than individual disks. At the end of the day the most important factor is whether the force gets transmitted, and that requires the whole unit to be in proper working order. I might have a few more questions to ask if you don't mind me sending you a private message. I'm trying to pass my final qualification exam, but no one in my shop has acquired it. I'd be an outlier, and it's tough not being able to ask anyone else.
There are piston return spring that push the piston back when pressure is released. When pressure is relaxed the frictions and steels can now turn independently again. This entire assembly is saturated with Automatic transmission oil so nothing more is needed to promote separation.
how should someone change clutch Plates doing repair, here in my Country we don't do repairs on automatic Transmission, Can automatic gear be repaired?
Absolutely we repair them all the time in USA. It often takes special training and tooling and is not for everyone. The goal of the video is to educate how a clutch pack works.
Hard to say without inspecting your Toyota. Start with checking the fluid level when it's hot and also inspect the condition of the fluid especially what does it smell like. Does it have a burnt smell to it? if so, this is not good. Does your Toyota have high miles on it?
8:27 heck i hate them i cannot recreate this then in 3d printed part thanks for the video i want to use a planetary gear for tank transmission and been wondering how the heck they activate dem clutch !
I have a 4x4 with an auto transmission that I take offroad every weekend. I noticed that when I get stuck in the sand, no matter how much throttle I give, the engine rpms don’t rise higher than 2k and the wheels don’t spin at all. Do I have a bad clutch pack?
You are not experiencing a slipping clutch pack. If you had a slipping clutch pack your RPM's would rise like you were in neutral. It sounds like you are experiencing a lack of torque. This could be caused by a week or low torque engine. Engine problems that would cause a reduction in torque for example if you had a misfire from one bad spark plug. Or your torque converter one-way clutch is giving out and the torque is not being produced in the converter like it should be. If you have a normally aspirated 4 cylinder engine and you have put really big tires on your 4x4 this can max out the engine torque and cause something like this. If you keep trying to get unstuck by keeping the RPM's at 2K you will overheat your trans fluid and burn up your clutches. If you don't have an external transmission oil cooler installed you should get one.
@@DrivelineMaster I have new spark plugs and all my fuel system has been checked and cleaned. The car is a 6 cylinder and stock tire size. So does that mean I need to replace my torque converter?
Not necessarily. First it would be helpful to know the year, make and model of your 4 x 4. What is the mileage on the engine? What is the size of your stock tires? Do you know the gear ratio in both differentials? You can perform a stall test on the converter and see if there is a stall spec in a service manual. Sometimes stall specs and not published. It's possible that you might benefit from a slightly higher stall converter. To perform a stall test have the vehicle outside with nothing in front of the vehicle for 15 - 20 feet. Put on your parking brake and press hard on your brake pedal. Place the transmission in drive or manual low and slowly press down on the accelerator pedal. See if you can get the pedal to go all the way to the floor without the vehicle moving. Make a note of the engine RPM. They should rise to a value and then stop rising (This is the stall speed and spec we are looking for.) Note this value. This super heats your fluid so put the trans in Park and raise the RPM's for 1 minute to remove the hot fluid from the converter. Look this up or send it to me with your vehicle information and I will see if I can look it up. If you can't keep the vehicle from moving before the accelerator is fully depressed this is normally a good sign. There are some stall test demo's on youtube that just have you note the RPM as you accelerate. You can try this only if you can't keep your tires from burning rubber while doing the test I described. If you report back with some more information I will try to help. BTW. If you have high mileage have you ever had a compression test done and if so, do you know the numbered results?
@@DrivelineMaster Firstly, thank you for response. The car is a 2012 Nissan patrol Y61 with the RE5R05A transmission and 4800cc straight six petrol engine. The odo has 184000 kms on it. The stock tire size is 275/70R16 and the diff ratio is 3.5. I haven’t done a stall test yet however I did carry out a compression test and don’t remember exact figures but it showed that it was a healthy engine and all cylinders were good. Hope this helps, thanks! Edit: I just did the stall test with brake fully pressed and handbrake on, the car started moving by the 1500-1600 rpms mark.
Your Nissan has OK engine specs with 245 HP@ 4,800 RPM and 295 foot pounds of torque @ 3,600 RPM. I don't know how stuck you are getting it when it won't move and the RPM's top out at 2000. What you are describing is a lack of torque to pull you out of a jam. The fact that your RPM's top out at 2000 tells me that your transmission clutches are not slipping. Torque comes from several places. First is your engine and if it has any problems producing torque for what ever reason from a bad plug to just plane worn out from high mileage. Next is the torque converter. There is a one way clutch built into something called the stator. if the one way clutch starts to give out you will lose torque multiplication from the converter. If your converter stall specification is 2000 rpm and your engine produces maximum torque at 3,600 you can increase your total torque by replacing your converter with a high stall converter. I would be careful not to go with a real high stall converter if you drive this on the road for normal commuting. Maybe a 2,800 to 3,000 stall converter. Next you get torque multiplication from your transmission and transfer case. Not much you can do here without spending big. Finally the differentials multiply torque. You can increase torque to your wheels by increasing your gear ratios to something closer to 4:1 or 4.5:1 but be careful because this will take a toll on your highway speeds, petrol mileage and it may impact your computer system. You might have to see if there was a higher gear ratio option for that vehicle and reprogram the engine and transmission control modules to tell them what gear ratio you have in the differential. You might just be hitting the maximum limit of this vehicle depending on how stuck you are. Last note. Compression test results can be deceiving. A small amount of carbon build up in a cylinder can render a high compression test result making you think the piston rings are good and the engine is healthy. Check for blue puffs of smoke from the exhaust when you first start it up in the morning or when you let off on the accelerator pedal after goosing it in park. You will need an assistant to do this. Another hint is to have someone drive behind you while you drive accelerating and decelerating. They should look for blue smoke which are signs of burning oi. Burning oil will add carbon deposits in your cylinder. Carbon deposits can also case per-ignition which will cause your knock sensor to back off on your ignition timing which will lower your engine torque. You might try a tank of high octane petrol next time you go rock climbing.
Google "2001 Honda civic automatic transmission rebuild kit" Lots of places. If you just want a single clutch pack or friction disc you may have to go to the dealer but it's cheaper to buy everything in an overhaul kit.
Question please answer. Could a faulty fluid pump affect this whole setup.? Because my transmission is shifting harder then I ever felt. And I already chaged my TCC. My car shows p0720. P0798 and P0743
Yes a transmission clutch pack operation can be impacted by a faulty pump but not as you described. The pump does not create pressure, that is the job of the pressure regulator valve. The pressure regulator valve for your vehicle is controlled Electronically with a Pressure Control (PC or EPC) solenoid and the P0798 is a PC solenoid code. When there is a problem with the PC solenoid the default setting is maximum fluid pressure. This is why your shifts are harsher than normal. The clutch pack is filling to quickly with too much pressure. The P0720 is an output shaft speed sensor code which between these two codes they could be causing the P0743 TCC code along with late and harsh shifts. I'm not sure if you have a code reader, a full fledged scan tool or someone read these codes for you. The first two steps would be to use a scan tool and monitor the PC or EPC solenoid operation and the Output shaft speed sensor operation. The amperage of the PC solenoid should be around 0.98A at idle with no load and drop down proportionally as the load on the vehicle changes from driving conditions. Additionally on some vehicles a pressure gauge can be used to check the pressure in the system. This is normally called Line Pressure. Line pressure is typically between 55 and 75 PSI at idle in gear (0.98 amp) and when you put your foot on the brake and on the gas at the same time (this is called stall test) the pressure should rise up to approximately 250 - 350 PSI (0.35 amp) depending on the vehicle. You might be able to drive the vehicle and observe the output shaft speed. Some vehicles may not offer this info on a scan tool and some scan tools are not capable of accessing this information. I would look at these two problems before worrying about the TCC code. That is the least of your problems. If you provide me with some more details and the year, make and model of the vehicle I will try to help some more.
@@DrivelineMaster oh my goodness man. Thank u so much man i just started a carpentry buisness im only 21 so getting a new car is definitely out of the picture. But I looked online and they said transmission pump becsuse I also hear a wirring or wining sound. But im going to order a new PC solenoid. I really wanna say. Thabk u for your reply. You definitely earned my subscription best youtuber ever. But u got s volkswagen jetta and it doesnt have no pressure gauge so its pretty gard to disgnose. But one more question do u thunk the valve body could be the issue ? And it all started with the TCC code and then the other codes came after
I would advise against throwing parts at it such as just going and buying a PC solenoid or a valve body. You could have a damaged wire or connection which would cost much less. My advice by the time you are tired of buying parts and that not fixing it you could have paid a professional to properly diagnose it for you. My advice take it to a qualified technician and get a real diagnosis. There might be one connector that has wiring for the PC solenoid, TCC and the speed sensor and the wires inside could be corroded or damaged. Don't throw parts at it. Get it diagnosed.
There are often multiple clutch packs in an automatic transmission. These clutch packs determine forward or reverse and additionally other clutch packs apply and release to change gear ratios. 1st, 2nd, 3rd. etc.. If you have a CVT transmission you may have one clutch that just controls forward and reverse. To answer specifically, there is typically one clutch pack for all forward gears and putting your transmission in neutral or park will release this clutch pack. The clutch pack in the video is the forward clutch for a Toyota A140E transaxle that was used during the 1980.
In most cases that is correct. I have run into clutch pack with no published clearance value and no recommended procedure for making that measurement. I have seen clearance specifications from .025" to .125". This is a pretty big range.
The torque converter creates a fluid coupler between the engine crankshaft and the transmission input shaft. The clutch packs are inside the transmission and do not replace the torque converter. Think of them as a coupling mechanism that can connect or disconnect two objects. Sometimes they connect two rotating objects together such as the input shaft and a ring gear and sometimes they connect an object such as another planetary gear to the housing. Both types are often required to produce a gear ratio for the torque to pass through.
There are a few exceptions. Such as Dual Clutch (DC) Automatic transmission which are actually a converted manual transmission. They do not use a torque converter but instead they use a coupling mechanism similar to the wet clutch in this video. Some DC transmissions use a dry clutch similar to a standard manual transmission clutch. Some hybrid transmission and vehicles with start/stop systems may also eliminate the torque converter but they often have at least 1 wet clutch similar to the video.
Nitrile gloves protect the skin on my hands from harsh oils and chemicals. It also helps to protect against the harsh soaps that are required to clean greasy hands. All mechanics for several years without wearing gloves should be able to relate.
When I was younger, we would hear about a friend who was having tranny issues, or who had blown a tranny; well, back then you could safely assume the conversation was referring to automobile's
Hey i see guys changing out the clutch pack pistons during rebuilds but why? i assume on this type the springs get worn and weak? But what about on other kinds like honda automatics where the piston is all solid. Would i be looking for cracks in the piston in that case? please answer my questions.
Although there may be many reasons for changing the piston I can only think of a few. 1) the piston has a bonded seal as part of the piston and this is the only way to renew the seal. 2) There may be a service bulletin or an upgraded piston design either by the manufacture or by an aftermarket company like Sonnax. 3) Some high performance kits will include extra friction disks and steels for more holding power and the only way to make them to fit is to install a slightly thinner piston. 4) The piston is known to fail so it's done as a precautionary measure. If this is happening it might be only specific transmissions and specific clutch packs within a particular model. Best way to find out is the next time you see this practice ask the technician why they are replacing the piston. I'm willing to bet it is one of the reasons stated above.
