I spent all the money and bought the whole system - left, right and drop zone in imperial. In short, I LOVE these sleds. I've had the Incra HD1000 and the HD5000, didn't really like either of them. Have the WP Exact 90 and have really loved it, but can only use it on the left side of the blade and not for bevels (at least not easily). I think my most favorite thing about these so far is the ability to cut bevels using the right side sled (sawstop with a left tilt blade). I was able to accurately cut bevels on both sides of a 42" long, 16" wide walnut panel with no problems. I used the integrated clamp to hold the piece in place, and the corners were flawless on assembly. It's almost like having the sliding table without the extra room that takes up. My next most favorite feature, which is almost ridiculous, are the handles on the leading edges of the sleds. Such a simple little thing that makes moving/carrying/installing the sled so much easier.
Really nice design and engineering. Seems some of the fence enhancements could be applied to a redesigned fence for the Exact 90. Specifically the extension rail sliding at the top of the fence instead of the bottom and the auto align feature when it’s pulled out fully so there’s no eyeballing the distance measurement. Also really like the new flip stop - looks like a rack and pinion micro adjust? If that can be incorporated into all the other flip stops WP has that would be awesome (thinking of the Exact 90 and DP Pro for example).
Exactly! The Exact 90 flip stop has issues with moving away from the blade after adjusting and then flipping back down, assuming you are using a sacrificial fence.
It would probably reveal secrets you don't want the competition to know, but I think it would be fascinating to see the progression of one of your amazing tools from the first idea through prototypes, testing, modification, etc to reach the finished product.
Not looking to beat a dead horse on the sacrificial fence… I fully get the need for the front face of the fence to remain constant for the distance to always be correct at any angle, but couldn’t it be designed so that a sacrificial fence of a fixed thickness always needs to be attached? Thinking of 3/4” MDF for example. I all on board with the importance of properly aligning the sled table and a clean/sharp blade, but thinking out loud here to cover all the cut quality bases. Great tool, keep those innovations and improvements coming!
This has been my main hesitation on going ahead and ordering. Will I have issues with tear out? I suppose just having some painters tape around could help eliminate that? I was thinking Incra 5000 before this came out. Just got my Saw Stop 36" PCS. Have thought about adding the smaller Saw Stop Sliding Crosscut table also is expensive and takes up more space. Tough decsion and input appreciated
Dan, my personal experience ("my" being Jeff Farris...this is my opinion, not the company position) is that I have been using table saws for well over 40 years and I have needed a sacrificial fence about a half a dozen times. When I did need it or want it, a piece of scrap that I had laying around and a spring clamp got the job done. The rest of the hundreds of thousands of cuts I've made have been with a bare fence that was fairly close to the blade in conjunction with a sharp blade. I'm not saying the people who say a sacrificial face is essential are wrong, I'm just saying I haven't experienced the same thing.
@@WoodpeckersLLC That is very good to know. Novice here and trying to understand how important that is. I like a lot about Autoscale miter sled but I didn't want to regret buying it. It is so helpful to have people giving feedback on these sites.
This was a short deep dive.not enough information in this video. I’d like to see a 30 min or longer deep dive showing the full potential of this and comparing it to incra’s sled. How easy is this to get back to exact 90 after moving it around to different angles ? I think you guys should give a couple out to some of the most popular RU-vid woodworking channels to test it and get some real feed back. For the price of this product I’d like to see it put through all different scenarios.
Gary, it depends on your saw and which side of the arbor your AutoScale is on. To use a dado blade, you need the AutoScale to be on the same side as the pulley. That way, the dado is building away from the sled, instead of into it.
Very nice piece of equipment but, this deep dive doesn't show how to calibrate the sled to be close, and perfectly parallel, to the blade. I can see the screws in the bar, and alignment/ adjustment slots in the sled but, you didn't show how to set the sled to the blade. Is this covered in the instructions that come with the AutoScale miter sled?
It is covered in the instructions, and it is quite easy. The two outer screws face up and the rest face down. Measure from the edge of the slot to the blade, roughly position the bar that distance from the edge, put a little tension on each screw, slide it in place and tweak it to be close to and parallel to the blade. Lock the screws from the top, turn it over and lock the rest. Next there's a simple adjustment to dial in the fence perfectly square to the blade.
incra 5000 vs woodpecker autoscale … anything available yet on how they differ? Trying to decide between them or if they both are unique in their own way
The Incra 5000 is enormous. I would choose the Woodpecker version in that respect. We all need more room and the Woodpeckers version would appear to take up less room when not in use. Also I have the Incra miter gauge with the extension fence and flip stop. The plastic scales can get out of adjustment. I have found this ture many times. Also the Incra flip stop has inherent design issues as it is very difficult to adjust in less than 1/32" steps. And after making that adjustment the fence and or the Incra flip stop will have to be recalibranted. I giver the nod to Woodpeckers for a set up that does not have to be recalibrated.
I sold my 5000 less than a year after purchasing it. Not only does it take up a lot off room when not in use, keeping it calibrated was an exercise in futility; the slightest bump threw the calibration off. Unless it's never coming off your saw, I wouldn't recommend it.
Lets not forget the god awful adjustment system incra uses for dialing in the miter bar. I've had the 5000 and sold it, still have the i-box jig, but I really hate that nylon washer adjustment thing. Its never worked well for me on three different miter bars (used to also have to 1000HD).
Looking at the website, you have to choose either imperial or metric. Why can’t the scale have both? For this price, it should have both scales! Flip it over to use the other side. TSO products does this with their items. That way you get a good quality tool but can use both scales, depending on what you have to work in on that particular job.
@@WoodpeckersLLC my thought was that if it could be redesigned so that it could have scales on both sides and be flipped over that would totally seal the deal. But right now, it looks like I would have to buy both sets to get both metric and imperial. That’s a lot of money.
@@WoodpeckersLLC one more thing that I’ve seen that wasn’t answered was the lack of a sacrificial fence. It doesn’t look like you had any tear out with this design as the blade cuts very close to the miter bar. Maybe we can get some more information on that.
A sacrificial fence would negate the always-accurate nature of the floating pivot fence. The front plane of the fence has to remain constant for the floating pivot to work.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Glad you acknowledge thet the scalu would not be readable. Now please fix the Exact 90 miter gauge flip stop. When the flipstop is used with your sacrificial fence it has to be placed forward and it then only aligns up with the 384, 1/16" marks. So you flip the stop up to set it to the actual easier to read scale, then flip it back dow to make a cut. Unfortunately when you flip it back down it moves away from the blade. Is that a manufacture defect or an inherent design flaw that you addressed with this miter sled?
wondering if you could do a demonstration of how to use your sled with long sticks of framing material. I'm a little baffled as to how to cut down normal framing material that comes standard in 8' and 10' (and sometimes longer) sticks. I've seen you cut very small frames and angles, but longer sticks creates difficulties that I didn't forsee. Many of the frames I build are 32" X 24" and larger. Since I am dealing with framing materials, there is a rabbit cut on the back, please account for that as well, if you decide to do a demo. Thanks for the help.
Long stock is always problematic when working with a table saw. If I were depending on an AutoScale for the final cuts, I would first break those 8 and 10 footers down to rough length with a chop saw or hand held circular saw. Then use the table saw to cut the accurate angle and dimension. If the table saw is your only option, take a similar approach. Set the saw square. Break the long material in sections a couple inches longer than your final cuts, then set the angle and cut to final dimension.
Miter slot compatibility was answered, but what about the width of the sled as compared to the tabletop? Seems like a substantial portion of the sled would hang off the table of a smaller saw like the SawStop CTS, no? Wouldn't that be unstable/unsafe? Or is the sled sufficiently locked into the miter slot?
I thought you were talking about the Contractors Saw. While you might be able to make it work, the AutoScale isn't really designed for saws as small as the CTS Compact.
Dan, it typically is 1/8" away. That's with the blade just clearing the bed of the sled. If you want a wider gap, just set up the edge of the bed a little further from the blade. That said, I've experimented and "close" doesn't count. Conductive material has to actually touch the blade...not just get extremely close to it.
I just re-read my post and realized I am completely off base. It will be 1/8" from the end of the fence to the blade no matter where the edge of the sled is. Duh.
Regarding dual scaling, i.e. metric and imperial. The accuracy of this device depends on the flip stop being accurately set along the fence. If the imperial scale is on the top of the fence than the metric scale can be matched engraved on the front face (i.e., the leading face) of the fence which is bare right now. Both the front face of the main body and that of the extension are obviously deep for scaling to be visible and legible. When the stop is flipped down for calibration the metric scale should read 25.4mm. I've bought a lot of WP metric and imperial tooling over the years and more than once complained that WP doesn't automatically incorporate dual scaling. With the way pricing is going up, it's time WP listen to its customers if they want to keep us who are tired of having to pay twice to get dual system capability.
Well this is certainly a neet version of several other sleds on the market BUT! Will this flip stop fit your Exact 90 miter gauge. I see you have addressed the issue associated with the Exact 90 miter gauge.
you didn't talk about the ability to add a zero clearance fence. This was brought up at several points in the discussion following the introduction of the product last month. Doesn't look possible with the stop design. At this price point, you really really should have the ability to add a sacrificial fence. Frankly, I just don't see paying such a premium price for a fence system that isn't perfect. You shouldn't have to settle at this price point is what I'm trying to say and you are definitely settling. At least in my view
A sacrificial fence would negate the always-accurate nature of the floating pivot fence. The front plane of the fence has to remain constant for the floating pivot to work. If you're fighting that much backside blowout, maybe your blade needs attention.
They also have changed the flip stop for this miter sled, the flip stop for the Exact 90 miter gauge changes position after you set it, tighten it , and then flip the stop back down. It moves away from the blade. This is not so much of an issue if you are not using a sacrificial fence as the flip stop actually fits across the scale with out having to lift the stop. This sled and the Exact 90 miter gauge seem to have been rushed to market with out actually engeneering a solution to not haveing a sacrificial fence for this item and fixing a wandering flip stop on the Exact 90 The Dubby miter sleds by In-Line Industries. has had a solution for the sacrificial fence for 20+ years.
@@box0xB9 Blaming the blade is simply an excuse for poor product design. I use nothing but Forrest blades and I can guarantee you that I would have to send out every week to be resharpened. No blades stays that sharp when used all day and every day of the week. A sacrificial fence like on the Exact 90 miter gauge is a must. And this is especially true for the audience/consumer that Woodpeckers is targeting.
@@11211lcb Blaming the blade is their excuse for not having the sacrificial fence. So why then did the include it on the Exact 90 Miter Gauge if they thought it was not important? So many questions we have?
In a relatively small window of use, I would say very close. It takes a few minutes to initially tweak the fence to square, but once there, return seems to be very good.
The connection between the miter bar and the sled is fully adjustable. The alignment procedure is pretty straightforward and well-documented in the Owner's Manual.
I get it, but the generally preferred way to cut bevels is for the finished piece to be above the blade and the off-cut to be between the blade and the table.
@@RobyWanKenobi Dubby Jig from In-Line Industries, Rocklers version, Incra's version. I have had the Dubby left and right side sleds for 20+ years. Their sleds are made from Melemine however that has never been an issue even in humid SE Texas. Both the left side and right side Dubby jigs are $349.99. Dubby has addressed the replaceable sacrificial end.
@@RobyWanKenobi I think the INCRA MITEREXPRESS Miter Express is a good option. You can use it with any gauge, although it works very well with the Incra 1000 HD. I like it bc you can set it up to the right of the blade for Sawstop saws where the blade tilts only to the left. It is an open sled that accommodates long stock and jigs.
@@11211lcb Literally none of the sleds you mentioned do what this does, which is keep the fence a constant distance from the saw blade, making it so that if you measure 8" (or whatever) from the blade and change the angle, it's always 8" (meaning, the scale you have on the fence is accurate at more than just 90 degrees, which is not the case for any of the products you mentioned)
@@RobertBarth1 oh, is it important to be able to change the angle and the stop setting remain the same. I do not recall ever needing to cut a 90 and or any other angle to a specific length and then need the same length at a different angle. Can you give me an example of when this feature would be needed? If I ever did need that I could still use my rule or tape measure.
$999 is for both right and left sleds and a catch table. The "Full Monty". Most people opt for one side or the other, depending on your saw and your personal preference.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Absolutely, but the Dubby addresses the tear out on the back side of the cut with a replaceable sacrificial fence end while materials matter the Melamine sleds on the Dubby have no I’ll effect from humidity in the Houston area since 1999. And addressing the scale being accurate regardless of angle on your miter sled a tape measure accomplishes the same for sleds with no scale. I absolute believe that you have a well made product but it seems that there should have been more focus on the concerns of the lack of a sacrificial fence. This is what your experienced customers seem to be concerned about. I absolutely do not pretend to know what is best for Woodpecker but it seems that a survey of your customer base might point you in a direction that would address what they feel is more important. I was an early buyer of your Exact 90 miter gauge. I have been a serious woodworker for about 44 years, professionally since 1995. I was quickly disappointed in the flip stop that came with the exact 90 and you certainly seem to have addressed this issue with the better designed sled flip stop. Will Woodpeckers ever offer a better flip stop for the Exact 90?
@@11211lcb I have a Dubby and the mechanism for calibration is terrible and poorly engineered. My backing block fell apart but to Dubby's credit they replaced it with just a phone call. I have also used other Dubby products and like them and the company. This sled is on an entirely different level.
Hallo und guten Tag nach USA! Ich plane, de AutoScale Miter Sled (Artikelnummer: ASMS-LM & Artikelnummer: ASMS-DM) käuflich zu erwerben. Für meine komplexen Planungen für diverse Varianten von Säge- und Frästischen brauche ich von beiden Grundplatten die genauen Abmessungen (Länge / Breite / Tiefe). Trotz intensiver Suche im Internet konnte ich diese Daten nicht finden! Kann mir da bitte jemand weiterhelfen? Vielen Dank für Deine / Ihre / Eure Unterstützung und herzliche Grüsse aus der Schweiz. Hello and good day to USA! I plan to purchase the AutoScale Miter Sled (Part Number: ASMS-LM & Part Number: ASMS-DM). For my complex planning for various variants of sawing and milling tables, I need the exact dimensions (length / width / depth) of both base plates. Despite an intensive search on the Internet, I could not find this data! Could someone please help me here? Thank you very much for your support and warm greetings from Switzerland.
Oh Mann, ich bin überwältigt. Soviel Service in unser so kleines Land mit einem noch viel kleineren HobbyWorker. Vielen Dank und gesundes glückliches Wochenende. Grüße aus Sins Schweiz. Oh man, I'm overwhelmed. So much service in our small country with an even smaller hobby worker. Thank you very much and have a healthy happy weekend. Greetings from Sins Switzerland. @@WoodpeckersLLC
@@WoodpeckersLLC Hallo und guten Tag nach Amerika! Wann kann ich bitte mit einer Antwort bzgl vorstehender Fragestellung rechnen? Ich brauche von beiden Grundplatten (Artikelnummer: ASMS-LM & Artikelnummer: ASMS-DM) die genauen Abmessungen (Länge / Breite / Tiefe), damit ich meine Projekte weiterführen kann. Vielen Dank für Eure Bemühungen Grüsse aus der Schweiz. Hello and good day to America! When can I expect an answer to the above question please? I need the exact dimensions (length / width / depth) of both base plates (article number: ASMS-LM & article number: ASMS-DM) so that I can continue my projects. Thank you for your efforts. Greetings from Switzerland.
This is Woodpeckers' version of the Jointech Smart Miter from the mid 1990'[s but way overpriced. Awesome piece of tech but no need to cost that much. I wish I still had my Jointech...
That happens when it's someone making a livable wage making it, not in a factory making pennies a day. Yeah, their stuff is expensive, but there are two things that make me not have a problem with it; 1 - Someone is making a living wage in the USA to make it. 2 - The stuff is such high quality, i've never gotten anything from them and thought "wow, this this is garbage".
@@everettnetzband people want their cheap foreign products, then turn around and complain about companies outsourcing jobs. Can't have it both ways, except whiners on Woodpeckers comment sections do want it both ways.
