Never ever owned an interference engine in any of my vehicles. And I always asked about the timing gear ⚙️ “what drives the cam shaft and crank shaft?” Belt or chain? Had a 1979 Ford 4 cyl non-interference engine. Belt snapped one morning. Towed it home. Put on a new belt in time and drove it another 2 years. Some people don’t know or don’t care but me - I care! Thank you sir!
Europe has millions of diesel engines cars there is huge money on replacing belts as almost at all Diesel engines in existence are interference engines due to the higher demand of compression ignition.
I have a 2UZ-FE in my Sequoia [same as in your Sequoia, Peter] and it is an excellent engine, despite the timing belt and interference valves. A belt and water pump change every 7 years and 90k miles is a small price. A chain/tensioner/guide change is less frequent but it is far more expensive.
Except the video is mind blowingly dumb. The vast majority of engines today are interference timing belt engines. Maintenance and not buying cheap crap components is the key.
Great advice. Most folks don't know this . I have a 1999 toyota rav4 with a great engine, 249,000 miles. I also have a 1995 honda odyssey with a not so great engine 300,000 miles. Both vehicles timing belt failures on hwy. Toyota easy. Honda major repairs bent valves etc. I do my own repairs. Learned all from you and others. Stay safe waiting on my vaccine
@Toyota Maintenance. Thank you Peter for making this video and giving your warning. I appreciate that you genuinely care about this problem for your customer. Yes, you still have to make the repairs and charge for it but you care that the problem is avoidable if the engine was designed with a timing chain and wasn't a interference engine. That's one of the reasons why I like watching your channel. Hope you and your family stay safe and well. Merry Christmas.
@@gncc600 Although I joke about my BMW, most of the problems people complain about are due to a simple unwillingness to properly maintain them. My X5 could've been one of the many thousands of 4.4 V8 X5s with a trashed engine because of failed plastic chain guides, but I had it all replaced preventatively so as to avoid that fate. It sucked paying that 5k repair bill, but not as much as it would've sucked if the engine grenaded.
@@tempest411 I agree. I've had multiple BMW's and they are fine cars - when maintained. But this constant attention costs money and most folks just want to drive, not wrench on their cars. New BMWs, in my opinion, are just for lease. Bring it back before the warrantee is over and you're fine. Actually, most manufactures are now following this model.
New chain driven small engines have even higher chance of such failure than the belt driven ones. All thanks to the oil filled tensioners that do not provide stable tension of the chain on engine start or just cold engine.
Not all manufactures use the oil filled tensioners and most of the problems you speak of happen when well-meaning owners use the incorrect viscosity engine oil, or rev the engine too high immediately after start-up, but I agree, there are some failures caused by this design none the less.
Unfortunately the timing chain drives they use today are not really any better than timing belt drives. Unlike old classic domestic cars and trucks that used timing chains that would outlast the rest of the engine, the timing chain drives they use today use relatively narrow gauge chains which aren't as strong, so they wear faster, and plastic chain guides and oil filled tensioner mechanisms, which are prone to failures if not replaced on some frequency. They are a need-to-service item. Although timing chain drives have a longer service interval, when the time comes they are more costly for the parts and service. If the chain breaks, it can cause every bit as much damage as a belt driven system. Most higher-performance engines are going to be of the 'interference' type.
@@tempest411 I agree. I've never had an issue with timing belt replacement and I've never had one fail. As long as they are done within mileage and/or time specifications and you replace tensioners, rollers, water pumps etc. at the same time, then they should be fine. But I do this all myself and only spend money on parts. If I spend $300 on parts someone else may pay $1500 with a shop. So, then it becomes a higher cost item. However, most people don't keep their cars long enough anymore so the manufactures make sure they last until the end of the warrantee period and then you're on your own. Unfortunately for me, I usually buy cars that are 6-7 years old and are done with the major depreciation period. This strategy worked well with older BMW's, Mercedes, Porsches etc, but now they are also playing this game. I have since switched to only Toyota or Lexus and have had good results. Although there is evidence of Toyota starting to skimp on some models now too.
Had a Volvo 940 which we sold at 250k miles when we sold it: timing belt, replaced it three times when we had it. (Pretty easy on that model, great wagon!) New owner's well past 300k mi now.... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
FINALLY! Someone else who gets it! I've been saying this for years, after learning about it the hard way [btw, the sales droid at the dealership said "Yes" when I asked if the engine in the truck I was buying had hydraulic lifters. It didn't... it used shim-over-bucket adjustments, which I had to pay an upcharge for when Toyota paid for a new short-block in the head-gasket recall on my '91 3.slo...]
As a general rule, timing chain systems will outlast timing belts. Some timing chain systems have their faults too, but I still prefer chains over belts. The main reason manufacturers went to timing belts was to make their engines sound quieter and to induce another needed service interval in order to increase profits. I have changed timing belts on many different vehicles, including Porsche with interference engines, and have found that if you replace not just the belt, but all ancillary components such as, rollers, tensioners, and water pumps, your chance of success are much greater. Also, you need to make sure the engine is timed properly by turning it over by hand several times before start-up and that the belt tension is set correctly. Good video Peter and valuable information!
@@markfitzgerald7556 Actually, there are gear driven cam systems out there, but they are mainly used in high horsepower or high torque situations. Top fuel drag racers and huge marine diesels use them, for example, but there are reasons car manufactures stay away from them. First off, they are extremely noisy, think blower whine noisy here. Secondly, they inherently have more drag and use up power produced by the engine to run, so less power at the rear wheels and less fuel economy. Thirdly, for today's overhead cam designs with variable valve timing it would be an engineering nightmare to accomplish, especially within budgetary restraints, and as the gears wear, they introduce more contamination into the engines oil as well as causing extreme directly transferred loads to the camshaft bearings which would effect reliability. Interestingly enough, many modified overhead valve V8 engines ('Merican engines!) switch to belt drive cams from timing chain for more efficient and more reliable transfer of power.
@@markfitzgerald7556 For sure, but are still louder than chain or belt. Plus they still transfer high loads to the cam bearings and pose a challenge for variable valve timing.
I have a 2UZ interference engine in my 06 Tundra. Funny, these engines when maintained are considered bullet proof. There are many of these running around with with 300 and 400k miles and more. Toyota has bought back a few for the high mileage for study. I found several sites who claimed that engine was one of the ten best ever made by Toyota. Sure, it is a problem if you don't maintain. I had mine done at Toyota Dealer. Cost me $2k, but Toyota gave me back a thousand dollars. They could not believe the condition of my truck - looks new. I had them do the belts, the water pump, the pulleys and other items. Truck was 13 years old. Best truck I ever owned. I have had Fords, Chevy's, and a couple small Toyota Pick Ups, as well as a Chevy LUV - I put 160,000 miles on. So, no I disagree. This is not an engine to avoid. It has another quirk, the starter is under the manifold. All these modern trucks have stupid stuff, but Toyota makes great trucks and cars. That was a great engine.
He maybe uneducated but he's right in the real world people do not do the required maintenance and when you let the coolant get to the point that it conducts electricity galvanic corrosion starts occurring this goes for all water cooled engines but Subaru's are particularly susceptible to head gaskets failure cause be lack of maintenance wether through owner or design flaw.
@@moparnut6286 We paid for 3 head gasket repairs out of our first 5 Subies. Maintenance wasn't at fault, just crappy Subaru design engineering. I did my own timing belt/tensioner jobs on the belt-equipped Subies. That being said, I got tired of Subaru's excuses & just got a 2019 Tacoma. Never had a timing belt failure in multiple Subies to over 200K miles. Maintain them, replace not only the timing belt, but also pulleys/sprockets/tensioners, and it should be OK. Then you get to enjoy how your Subie consumes oil (1 qt/750 miles in.my 2013 Forester).
@@joshm2243 owned about 6 3RZs and never had an issue with a head gasket , the 5vz fe is reliable but also suffers from head gasket issues and overheating and it being a slow pig for a v6
@@joshm2243 Head gasket issues? Never seen one on an engine with under 300k on it. The burnt valve issue is due to not having the valves adjusted like stated in the service interval. They tighten up and cause damage.
@@fortis619 I have both in the garage at the moment. We are really splitting hairs when talking about which is better. Funny thing is when either of them have issues they tend to have a ridiculous amount of miles on them. Long after other brands have been in the junk yard for a decade. I prefer the 2.7 slightly but love them both. Yeah the 5vz has the power of a 4cylinder and fuel economy of a V8 but its a solid little engine.
Another great video , thank You. Subscribed. I've heard that most toyotas (except V8 models) have non interence engine. I asked specifically about: 2001 Toyota Sienna V6 3.0L 1MZ-FE engine, VVTI-24 valve and received confirmation from toyota dealership. Gates website (company making rubber products like: belts, hoses) years ago had a list of interference and non interference engines, but they don't have that listing anymore. They also confirmed, that the model mentioned above is non interferance.
I always know interference engine will damage internal component if the timing belt snaps. but don't know how and what. you detail explanations is worth every second of your video. keep up the good work!
@@hippiebits2071 They definitely shouldn't, but I have asked more than a few people about their timing belt when I run into a 1st gen Tundra/Sequoia owner and they have no idea what I'm talking about lol. Some of them were over 300k already.
Its a lot of good interference engines with timing belts In my opinion as you replaced the belt on time with a quality belt you will be ok But thank very much sir for your opinion and share
When I paid to have mine done, the (Subaru) OEM had shifted to Chinese production. I don't remember the company name. After the dealer did the work at 90k (15k miles early), because I was about to give it to one of my kids for college, they put the car back together and discovered (if not caused - they wouldn't say if they pressure flushed it) the head gasket failure. I tell as many people as possible to avoid Subaru like the plague. I also educate Subaru owners of the many things to watch out for. Save yourself! Stay away from Subaru and Nissan.
When we changed the timing belt in the Jeep Liberty CRD I had we used a Gates timing belt. It lasted 7years and 60,000 miles, still going when I sold it. I think the original was goodyear.
@@jptrainor my point is use a quality brand even if the OEM isn't available. There's a lot of cheap Chinese stuff in the stores like Advance Auto parts. That's why we ordered that belt kit from a supplier that sold only OEM and proven aftermarket parts for small diesel engines.
There's that old saying: You get what you pay for. It's so true for so many things, but really more so when it comes to electronics, appliances, tools, and, most of all, auto parts. Inevitably, when one tries to go cheap on auto parts, it ends up costing them much more in the not so distant future in time, money, and aggravation. Always use OEM parts and recommended oil and fluids; while they do cost more, they're well worth it.
Always change the timing belt at the recommended interval. But I would also change any other components that could cause the belt to slip or come off if they fail. For example the idler pulleys and the bolts that hold them in place. I would also say, use a timing belt from the manufacturers. Not third party
The question is why is this even necessary in the first place. Why in world would engineers make such an engine if not of the fact that they want to keep the repair and maintenance money coming.
@@alphainfinitum3445 Yes that is a good question. A think chains are superior, but the devil is in the detail - how well is it engineered and manufactured? Years ago I had a car with a gear driven cam. It was a push rod engine, not overhead cam. Properly made it would probably last the life of the engine
I have a 2012 Honda Ridgeline with a timing belt and 71k miles. Honda recommends changing that belt at 105k miles. On the Ridgeline forum there have been a few broken timing belts. One was in a very low mileage like about 25k miles 2011 and was thought to have been stored for awhile. Storage means that a few of the teeth on the belt would be under tension for a long time and that could create a weak point on the timing belt. The other Ridgelines with belt failures seemed to happen to replacement belts that didn't last like the original belts. I've been debating on selling but idk.
I work on subaru and toyota mostly too lol I was wondering if you can disclose the brand of the belt that snapped? Cheap chinese junk? Thank you. Love your vids
I bought my 05 4Runner with a 4.7L V8. At the time, I didn't know it was interference. I changed the belt at 90k miles and the old belt looked new and showed no wear, but I replaced it. I'll do it again at 180k and hope the belt never fails.
102K original belt kit on my 2006 DC Tundra bought new. Have changed/refreshed EVERY fluid and keep all zircs greased on drive and suspension. Radiator still perfect like new. I plan on doing complete Belt Kit, radiator + Cam/Crank seals as well as hidden hoses under intake at 125-130K though may go 150K. Probably need to pull/replace O2 sensors and clean out injectors at least. Oil/Filter 5K. She will run longer than me.
The Toyota 4.7 liter engine in the Tundra and Sequioa. That engine has reached over 1,000,000 in a few Tundras. Change that timing belt along with the idler pulleys and tensioner every 95,000 miles with a kit from Aisin (water pump included) Aisin is partially owned by Toyota and designs and manufactures these timing belt kits and many other parts for Toyota to include their transmissions.
yes, unfortunately the belts fail when the engine is accelerating, so you get bent valve stems, or worse. Also, you need some luck: low mileage belts can fail - on their own, - or when you made a small mistake and it's rubbing somewhere, - or when you get a seizing roller/tensioner/ACpump/PowerSteeringPump/Waterpump
That's why only quality replacement kits should be used. A good kit will outlast its lifespan safely. Timing belts are not an issue anymore, just replace them at the recommended mileage
Good information.... in this case... would it not be cheaper to purchase an engine that runs from a salvage yard? Last subaru whose belt broke.... i saw not only the bent valves... but also a few destroyed piston heads. Just the hours you put into that job .... you could almost purchase a re-bulit engine. WHEN I SUBARU GOING TO WAKE UP??????
I have an interference engine with a timing belt, Subaru engine actually. But i got the time belt changed at 90k miles so it won't break. It's ok to have an interference engine with a timing belt as long as you keep up with maintenance, and use quality parts.
The one time in my life I bought a Subaru, along with my mother, was in '88, the DL Wagon. Big mistake. I saw your video and all those bad memories welled back up. I did all the maintenance per the manual, but those darn belts kept stretching what-have-you (I am no mechanic) and I kept taking it back to the dealer with 'tappet noise' and yes they kept replacing or adjusting those belts. By 60,000 miles it had developed other issues (electrical) and I traded it in for a Toyota truck that I sadly lost in a wreck in 2002. My mother had the same model Subaru and had a similar experienced but her belt snapped and caused a lot of damage- left her stranded on railroad tracks. I think those wagons had a 1.8l engine. Junk if you ask me. I had a 2002 V8 4x4 Tundra that I sold in 2019, it never broke down and was in perfect working order when I sold it after 17 years. But I fell in love with a 2019 Tundra 4x4 Limited and bought that. By comparison, I was beyond thrilled to get rid of the Subaru and will never own one again.
Thank you Peter. Very helpful. I have 09 Forester with 190k miles. I had Subaru do belt at 120k. Head gasket is leaking. In Subaru shop now. I am anxious about hearing this information. Ugghhh. Money pit. :(
No, not a money pit. Look at the miles!! Toyota Camrys and RAV4 s had the 2.4 engine which were horrendous for oil consumption. Were they money pits? Maintain the Subaru, replace the head gaskets and it will last you a long time.
Remember old v-8 engines with plastic teeth on cam gears? Manuscratchures always have put crap in cars. Had timing belt break on both, interference and non- interference.
Limiting ones self to only non-interference engines, and/or timing chain engines isn't the answer. Timing chain engines have plenty of problems of their own which are even more costly to repair than timing belt maintenance. Most people don't think that far. The only reason a belt would fail like that after such a short time is either the job was done incorrectly, low quality parts were used, or some parts weren't replaced (i.e. tensioner, tensioner and idler pulleys, etc.) There are a lot of fake parts on Amazon/eBay that people buy and will fail like this. There are a lot of low quality kits sold by the local parts stores too (i.e. Dayco, Gates in some cases, etc.) If you have an interference engine just keep up with the timing belt maintenance schedule and be sure to use OE or good quality aftermarket replacement parts. I've got an 08 Honda Odyssey with 228K on it. It's had two timing belt jobs done on it and I expect to do a third when it hits 300k.
2:52 The belt is branded "Evergreen". Google indicates that it's a common aftermarket timing belt parts kit. Lot's of potential for problems. I researched parts kits for my 2010 Odyssey time belt job. The prices were attractive, but I couldn't convince myself the quality was there (including from Gates, which is a very common kit) or that there was no risk I'd end up with a counterfeit part, so I got Honda parts at a local dealer.
@@jptrainor Gates is OE on Hyundai and many domestic cars, so I will use in those cases when necessary, but Aisin is my go-to brand. They are the OE for Toyota as I believe they are owned by Toyota. I have used Aisin kits on many Honda timing belt jobs and have never had any issues. It's either Aisin or genuine Honda--nothing else. Aisin is what's running on my vehicle today. EricTheCarGuy did a timing belt on his Odyssey a while back where he used "genuine" Honda parts from Amazon or eBay (I forget which) and they were obvious fakes and even he didn't spot it until the comments section filled up with people filling him in. The vehicles then get sold and the belt breaks on the next guy...then the timing belt engines get a bad reputation.
5,000 mile timing belt failures are kind of a freak thing. I had an Audi TT and put over 200K miles on it without any issues at all. I did of course have that belt, water pump, and the 'rollers' replaced every 50k to be on the safe side. I'd still be driving that car today weren't for it being rear-ended...
I asked my mechanic to inspect the timing belt on my first generation Tundra. I told him I was concerned due to it being an interference motor. He said that the belt was replaced at some point in the past, and that this one now has a few cracks in it, but it's nothing to worry about for the time being. Is he an idiot? Should I have it replaced?
The Toyota ones are usually good for ATLEAST 100k (I think they reccomend 60k), but lots of cheap belts are out there that have been installed. If a 1st gen Toyota belt had very light fine cracks I'd still drive it for maybe 10k and save up to have it done. It's not nearly as difficult on that motor as many others so it shouldn't be extremely expensive.
@@berryreading4809 The truck is a 2001 with 170k KM (106k miles), and all I can do is assume that the belt was changed at 60k miles, putting the mileage of the current one around 46k miles. Considering that the truck had one of those garbage Fram oil filters on it when I got it, there's a good chance that this belt is some shit brand, too. I think I'm going to fast track this belt replacement just to be safe.
FYI that's also the time to replace the water pump,timing tensioner/idler pulley, cam seals(if leaking or over 200k miles) and engine fan bearing, it's not a crazy hard diy job, using quality Toyota/aisin parts it should be less than $300 in parts. You can get aisin brand mixed with other Toyota OE supplier "kits" on ebay instead of buying direct from a stealership.
I just recently bought a 2006 Honda Pilot with over 180,000 miles. There was no records of the timing belt water pump service ever done. I didn't risk it any further and took to my local mechanic to get that replaced.
The hydraulic tensioner on this particular engine should be replaced also . I have seen many timing belts been replaced , then about 50,000 miles later the tensioner fails . Makes a noise , as belt is loose and flops . Usually customer bring in car because of noise concerns. Luckily before any damages.
@@inverseuniverse5727 You're absolutely right, the shop I took it in too is changing the whole timing kit. I also supplied the shop with the spark plugs as well.
You purchased and worked on a 2005 Toyota Sequoia . I bought the same Toyota, which has an interference engine. I AM SCARED NOW. What suggestions or encouragement tips can you give to this Sequoia owner?
I love my Interference Engine with Timing Belt. #2JZ for life. Caveat, maintaining my GS300 is like maintaining a German vehicle, just cheaper. Quality of parts is everything.
Yaris did it right, timing chain w/o any tensioners, there is an adjustment bolt located near the alternator. No broken belt or tensioner to deal with. A true economy car
To prevent a waste of time you can use a cylinder leakage tester to check the condition of the valves and seats before you even put a belt on the engine.
What do you think about the Sienna 05 3.3 l engine ? It has a timing belt and I believe it is a interference engine. I don’t hope to trigger bad luck by mentioning it but these vans do have decent reviews even though they are such engine. I recently replaced the timing belt at 95k km interval. I love the car but this timing belt thing does concern me.
@Spinning Back-Kick still a maintenance item that can be budgeted into the cost of ownership. I'd rather have that than a surprise $1500/ $1800 job for timing chain+tensioners when they go.
Great information about interference engines; it's definitely good peace of mind to own a car with an engine that is either non-interference and/or has a timing chain like my Scion XA with the 1NZ-FE. Although, while bent valves are certainly no fun, I do think the cheaper "Evergreen" brand timing belt may have had something to do with the premature failure. Also, given that the belt is of cheaper quality, the shop who installed the belt and completed the job, likely may have neglected to change the timing belt idler pullies. On Subarus, these pullies are more than often the culprit when dealing with timing belt issues, as their bearings can seize or even sometimes explode with old age. Doing a Subaru timing belt replacement should involve the installation of a full Aisin or OEM timing belt kit. MrSubaru1387 has some well-informed info on this in his recent video about timing belt kits. These kinds of engines can last a fair while with proper maintenance, just like the UZ engine family.
Peter is eating this one. He should have used higher quality parts. These Evergreen belts have a bad reputation. Probably trying to save the owner money.
There is pros and cons to Belt driven timing. Emissions standards demanded the belt along with the financial stand point of production. Additionally its unfortunately another service mark up for stealer-ships; however I have seen more tensioner failures on timing systems then belts- when the tensioner starts to fail it can pre-maturely fail the belts along with pulley(s) i.e tensioner pulley and water pump bearings. Belts have been manufactured to high tolerance specs. The Con of a timing chain is stretch- thus adjustment and other issues with timing.
Yep, changed it all on my kids used Volvo...11 months later the tensioner pulley spring broke. Interference and very far away from home. Got rid of the car
I have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma prerunner 3.4 truck do I have an interference engine ? Because I do replace every 100,000 miles but still want to know,I appreciate it thank you
It is an Interference Engine. If you take a look at CartuneNZ's videos on RU-vid, he has a lot of detailed videos about the different models of UZ-FE engines.
Isn't the chain sliding on plastic guides? The chain may not break but those guides submerged in that hot/cold oil all the time, will. If you take care of the car and do proper maintenance, the belt will not fail you. If the manual states that you should change it every 60.000 miles, change it a little sooner, just like engine oil.
I have been trying to adjust the headlamps in my Canadian 2013 Tacoma. I found the #2 Philips adjustment screws. But they don't seem to do anything! Is there a secret and can you show us how to adjust those headlights?
Trying to ascertain whether a used car has had the required belt replacement is really aggravating. Dealers and private party sellers either don’t know or won’t say if the belt has been replaced. Buying a Honda or other with over 100k becomes a crap shoot yet the prices never reflect the chance the buyer is taking. With an older car a timing belt failure basically sends the car to the boneyard.
Unless you have reliable documentation, I strongly recommend replace the timing belt and all fluids...Then I annotate everything in my "At a Glance" Automotive journal. All my cars have journals with every Maintenance/part ever performed.
He just forgot to mention that the timing belt job is a $ 1k+ job: many people think that "ah is just a change of a rubber band, it can't be that expensive, maybe $ 200 parts plus labor ?" ;-)
Makes me nervous. My wife and I just purchased a 2005 Lexus RX330 with 53,000 miles, the vehicle looks like it did as it did coming off the show room floor. It’s a very nice vehicle. We had all the fluids changed, including the rear differential, and today, ironically, dropped it off to have a new timing belt and water pump replaced. Why? Because of age, not mileage. We are on a fixed income, and are hoping this car lasts us ten years or more. But, I gotta say, this timing belt stress is new to me, makes me nervous. How long can I go before I should replace it again? Any advice or comments from anyone?? Peter?? Your thoughts? -Stephen, Ohio
Should be good for 10 years or 100k whichever comes first. No worries as long as you did the water pump. Former Toyota engineer and current Subaru engineer.
One major issue that has become an issue over the last few years: counterfeit low-quality Chinese timing belts that masquerade as OEM quality parts. This is something that's gonna be an issue for years to come. The dealership is about the only place I would buy such critical engine parts. There are dozens of videos here on YT that chronicle people's experiences with fake replacement parts, which are packaged to look like the real thing. Any online parts purchases are suspect and I've received a couple myself. Rockauto.com is the only online supplier I deal with now.
What is you surbaru channel, someone prior said you had one. Great video! By the way, if the brand of the timing belt was crappy, I can see that happening OR the prior person didn't do the job right or didn't change all the pullies etc. Rare to see a failure of a new belt happen so quickly. That is if I undersand it was replaced onced and failed prematurely.
I don’t know I almost rather have a vehicle with a timing belt that’s meant to be replaced versus having a vehicle with a timing chain that the manufacturer thinks is for life but doesn’t make provisions for easy access, would you rather have to replace a timing belt on a Honda? Or a timing chain on a 2.0 vw? Just my amateur opinion.
That's why I change the timing belt any time I purchase a car equipped with one, I factor it into the sale price. Saying buy a timing chain equipped vehicle is no peace of mind either, manufacturers love using plastic guides that wear prematurely and engineers are trying to save weight and use thinner and lighter chains that are only fit for a pedal bike. That's why the 1.6 engine used in Mini's, Peugeot and BMW cars are a disaster waiting to happen.
Today I had to bring my wifes 2009 accord to have the timing belt replaced. I asked and she never had the service done and the car had 165,000 miles on it. We dodged the bullet on that one. Good thing my 2019 4Runner has a timing chain and wont have that issue.
Hello, MERRY CHRISTMAS 🎅 🎄 TO ALL! SANTA DIDNT VIST ME LAST NIGHT. I DIDNT RECIEVE A TOYOYA TACOMA, FJ OR EVEN A 4 WHEEL DRIVE RAV 4 HYBRID! IM VERY SAD! PLEASE TELL US HOW CAN WE TELL FROM THE OUTSIDE OF THE WNGINE IF ITS AN" INTERFERENCE ENGINE"? THANK YOU CHRISTOPHER
I drive a 98 4runner V6 with the 5vz and 99 Camry V6 with 1MZ. Never had anything more reliable and easy to work with. The sure as heck dont make em like they used t
you can have these engines. its not that you dont want then. its just you need to do the timing belt change every 70-90k miles to be safe. along with water pump an so on.
Gonna echo what someone else said.. Why didn’t you at least use a Mitsuboshi belt…or a full Aisin kit which is comparable to oem materials quality. I’ve seen parts store belts that go bad within less than a year, usually dayco brand. I’m sorry, but whoever decided to go with cheaper than oem parts is probably at fault! All parts that spin (pulleys and bearings) also need to be replaced lest they seize up and snap you belt. They make reinforced timing belts too. I bought a subaru on auction and I felt it when you said you put a new timing belt and ran it lol. It’s hard to take these out and apart just to find out what kind of failure you had. I bought a subaru on auction and I was not prepared at all, at first. Mine came with a piston to valve contact and I can only guess a couple things could have happened, rod bearing came out, but did it happen after the piston-to-valve contact or before during HG failure? I don’t know. Or did someone time it wrong when replacing head gaskets? Who knows lol.
Honda 3.5 V6 is timing belt, interference engine. Just put the third belt in at 165,000 miles. Meanwhile, my 06 Rav4 with 3.5 V6 engine has 320,000 miles. Only thing I've done with it was to put new ignition coils and an oxygen sensor. Still runs like new.
@@trevorsyversen9956 Bought it (2007 Ridgeline) at 85,000 miles. Didnt know if the belt had ever been changed...why chance it? Water pump went out at 165,000 and ruined the crankshaft position sensor. So, again, why chance it. I'll agree with you, I really like the Honda, but that belt is a pain it the ass.
@@Krakondack Yep, replaced it with shitty unknown maker water pump. Learned my lesson...put in oem (aisin) this last time. Will only go with oem from now on.
