Of course the downside of a hybrid inverter is that Gary's statement "I've got the 3.6kw draw from the inverter, plus the solar" is unfortunately not true. The maximum throughput of the inverter is 3.68kw, and if the sun is shining it'll max out and won't draw from the batteries. However it does look like your usage and draw will match up better now, so you'll just have to be a bit careful about drying tgose flowing locks when the kettle's on!
Big Big mistake installing a complex electrical system in a toilet. What happens when a guest uses it and points in the wrong direction, not to mention the humidity?
It's to get more cycles out of the batteries, shallow cycling (top and tail) is a pretty common strategy. It's configurable so if the desire to go further is there, and winding the cycle life in a bit, it can be done. It's good practice to keep capacity in reserve either via configuration or calculated demand for systems that can run standalone anyway.
@@retrozmachine1189 The battery is only warrantied for 10 years, so I would rather get the usage out of it in that period than saving it for a period beyond the expiration of the warranty. Sunsynk might not even be around in 10 years, so I'd want to get my money's worth as quickly as possible.
I would worry about humidity in the bathroom. Not the best place to put batteries or electronics. In anycase, this particular battery vendor doesn't seem to know how their own batteries work. They don't even name the battery chemistry correctly. It is "Lithium Iron Phosphate", not "Lithium-ion Phosphate". The 80% DOD is garbage... that's marketing nonsense that just lets them inflate their cycle life. LiFePO4 batteries can be 95% discharged (roughly a 48.0V inverter cut-off) without causing any significant wear to the cells verses a shallow DOD. The cells will still outlast the rest of the electronics in the battery by years. The BMS should be programmed cut-off at around 2.5V/cell to 2.75V/cell (40.0V to 44.0V). BMS cut-offs are always the last resort and shouldn't be used as the go-to low-voltage cut-off for the system. The inverter should be programmed to cut-off at around 3.0V/cell (48.0V), which is 95% discharged under a nominal load. Always charge LiFePO4 to 100% when conditions allow. This is typically 3.55V/cell (56.8V), hold for between 30 minutes and 2 hours ("absorb setting"), and disable any current tail to allow the BMS sufficient time to balance the cells internally, then drop to a float of between 3.35V/cell and 3.375V/cell (53.6V to 54.0V) as long as solar conditions permit. Load-support from the grid is usually programmed in between 52.0V and 53.0V. For voltage-based load-support it takes some messing around to dial-in a good number since it will depend on nominal system loads, but it is far more reliable than using SOC-based programming in control loops. Avoid SOC-based control loops... the BMS tracks the SOC but it is only reliable if the battery can regularly be charged to 100%. So it is possible for control loops to end-up in a tangle and cause the system to stop working properly when they are based on SOC. In anycase, this is basically how you program in a battery reserve in case of a power outage. Typically you don't want to draw the battery down below roughly 30% of its capacity under normal operation when the grid is available, in order to ensure that you have at least 30% of the capacity available as a reserve if the grid fails at just the wrong time. -Matt
Good luck applying that to mass market batteries. I hear off so many problems with some systems which appear like a weak cell, or SOC being wrong. My Victron system with LF280K cells and JK BMS on the other hand. Two x 16 cells for a total of 29kWh, and an 8kW inverter.
Afternoon Gary, *looks* like the Keto has a fuse in the Negative as-well as the positive which is a fire risk if the -ve blows first… I cant see the ratings obviously but looks like a keto 160/3 and of course could just be a solid link? A question for your installer maybe?
i think you could have made better use of your roof. and you could have asked your neighbor if you can creep into his roof as well, he might not have minded that
People and sellers really push batterys. I have got a 5kw battery and in the supper it's great but that's because my system is returning solar all the time we have light sky's so say up to 9pm in summer and then we are off to bed say annhour after . This gives my batterys 6 to 7 hours of use powering the home. Because its summer the dishwasher and washing machines are onin the sunny period so no loads . So winter is very different. Be lucky to get 1 hour 30 minutes as we are up making coffee/tea, showering, cooking all coming from that poor old battery. For best performance you need an 8 kw solar array and 20kw of batterys to deal with a lived in family home. If its a retired couple then 10kw or less. Its all dependant on what you use and how you live day to day. Remember what ever you pay for your system and labour needs to be paid back before you an say its free lol. Lot of folks forget this when they tell everyone in the pub how they have free electric lol. Then you have to pray they don't fail until the warranty runs out as then it will be a few more years before it pays back.
@@eFIXXENERGY get ready for people to say when is it going to pay back for it’s going to be years your better off spending the money on something else lol, PS the winter is claiming me I’m only getting to 10% state of charge before my cheap rate my batteries can drop down to 5% but think another battery will do I’ve already got server rack to put them all in so will take me to 19.2kW which should do
So let me get this straight building regs say you cant install a light switch inside a bathroom as that is apparently highly dangerous, yet you've installed a huge explosive water averse lithium bomb right next to a bunch of plumbing piping and water? and then put it on youtube for us all to learn from? Nothing like the humming of high voltage and certain death 3 inches from your ear when your taking a poop!
@@faraway5828 All lithium are a risk. LifePo less a risk, but still a risk. IMO there should be compulsory fire detection located close by to any battery install at an absolute minimum, and linked to other detection/alert devices in the house. Ideally though, it would be illegal to install these inside a property.
It's mandatory to have a smoke alarm next to a battery installation, pretty sure Gary showed that in an earlier episode. My installation is in the loft and the installer fitted a battery smoke alarm, which I replaced with an interlinked heat detector. Battery fire start slow so there's plenty of time to escape.
