I sewed my own sports jacket and it took me 40 hours! The fit around the chest and waist is almost perfect in my opinion, though perhaps a bit tight. The arms are way too short, but this one I made was a prototype out of polyester fabric with rayon lining, so full synthetic. The @Gentleman’s Gazette was a big inspiration for the project and I wanted to thank y’all for starting my journey into menswear. I’m 17 years old, and I now have a capsule wardrobe so I can look fresh for the upcoming school year. Thanks!
Yeah, i saw two idiots at a wedding with the sleeve tags on. Someone keenly pointed out that they were going to likely return the suit after the wedding. I knew a girl who worked at a department store and said people return clothes all the time with deodorant stains and say they never wore it. Class acts!
They are probably one of those who wear "the brand" not wear clothes. They get to use to the nike,bape,supreme,...on their clothes so now they looking at something truly takes skill to perfect, they struggle to let people's attention
@Captain Mushroom Never claimed to be a gentleman. Just noting the behavior of cheapskates and grifters. They are not my peers as my peers don't behave that way. There is a plethora of affordable clothing options today. There is no need for that type dishonorable behavior that hurts manufactures, retailers, and the unwitting next customer that buys their selfishly spoiled garment's.
@Captain Mushroom No worries. I do see your point. I mean who am I to judge. But when it effects others its not fair. But if it doesn't, to each their own and a good point. Your point is a good one and does apply to many situations. ✌🏻
Having measurements like a store manequin is truly a joy. I had this experience the first time I had a made to measure suit made. The guy in the store measure me up. Handed me a suit jacket of one of the manequins and basically told me that it was fine like that. It s so fun to be able to take a suit off the rack and have it fit like it was taylored
I had that experience once with a jacket from Hackett. I liked it, tried it on and it felt as if it had been tailored for me. Never have I ever bought a piece of clothing that fit me so perfectly. It was incredible.
I remember an actress, an older actress in the 1960s and early seventies by the name of Minnie Pearl who left the tags on everything but mostly her hats. It was part of her act. I would like to say one thing extra here about men's suits; there's nothing worse than your sweat reacting with synthetic fibers and stinking the whole thing up so, when one walks into that late afternoon board meeting everyone there KNOWS who's making that stink.
The last and most important style mistake is among the best because gate keeping helps no one who wants to learn more. As a relative novice to this style I am still building my wardrobe, primarily through thrifting but one of my concerns was having people judge me on my style choices based on the brands. Thanks!
I'm proud that in Zagreb,Croatia we can gett good hand made tailored suit fo around 350-500€ depending on materijal and shoes for 300€ in general. And our tailors and shoemachers are generaly grately skiled and their products are usualy up to quality compared to british or italian suits and sometimes even better.
You know I wish that they brought suits back for regular working men especially in England because I love to spread the message that suits are for everyone and if you look at the history of it the workers would have the suits and flat caps I just prefer wide legged trousers and wide lapels aswell as vintage ties as they have more interesting patterns if some company made suits that way now and at a good price with proper long waterproof overcoats sheepskin jackets leather jackets then I'd bloody well get down that shop right away
Just started work at a local menswear store and I’m coming back here to refresh on what I need to relay to customers who have never worn classic menswear the dos and donts. Thanks GG for all the knowledge and entertainment over the years
Hey thanks boss for the tips for owning a suit. never had a suit before but I'm getting to a point in my career where ill be needing to buy a suit. keep up the good work and it helps people like me who are not as well versed in the subjects of being a gentleman.
I really like these videos but watching them is bitter sweet for me. I was always an overweight chap, and always wanted to wear a nice, tailor cut suit but on an overweight man it just does not look as debonair as it does on one who is in shape. I lost weight overtime and after a spell I owned a plethora of ties, cuff links and pockets squares; and had 30 sports coats of lively colors and fabrics as well as 7 suits. Some formal and some outrageous but I loved them and the reactions I got while I was a man about town. unfortunately I’ve had a many of tragedy and unfortunate incidents happen and I’ve gained all the weight back. It’s sad because all of these tips I followed to the letter and found that a lot of these methods I learned on my own. I think these videos are fantastic to teach people that have no clue find their way to dress properly. Myself? Very sad I can no longer dress like this. Cheers fellows please don’t judge me to harshly.
Lovely information. Point # 11 about not being wedded to the same tailor was an eye opener. I'm going to divorce my current tailor tomorrow, Ravi Peiris M.D.
I guess that the mistakes described here are tailored to the US. Indeed, I have never ever seen (in France) a shop sale ready to wear costumes not suggest adaptations. Neither have I seen construction stitching. As for the tags, I am not as sure but most of the time, they are inside the costume so leaving them is less of a problem. But I always remove them nonetheless.
About sleeve length, I've bought and sold a large number of vintage jackets over the years and the most common measurement I see on Ebay is "shoulder seam to cuff" (which this video shows). Oddly the second-most common measurement I see is inner sleeve from armpit to cuff, which I think is useless, because two jackets with identical sleeve-lengths will have different "armpit to cuff" measurements according to how long or short the armhole oval is.
Fun nerd fact for anyone who's seen the Good Omens TV show - Gabriel's jacket still has the vent stitching in, which given the level of detail that production had, was clearly a deliberate move by the Wardrobe Department to show that the show's douchiest angel didn't have a clue about the one thing he said he liked about humanity. As a fashion aficionado, I noticed and had a giggle.
13. Wearing an uncomfortable suit just because it looks good. Remember that you'll have it on all day! I remember an otherwise-off-the-rack shop where all the sleeves and legs were unhemmed, as that would always be adjusted to fit at the time of sale. (They could do other alterations too.)
I ordered a custom suit from Jos. A Bank a few years ago. I have a large belly but from the belt down I am fairly trim. I was really annoyed when they had to order the pants based on the jacket size. They told me they would tailor the pants to fit when it came in but it seemed to me that making the pants fit from the beginning would have been better. They told me they had to select an existing pattern, that a computer CNC machine would then cut out the pieces and they would be sown together. Well, if they are cutting it out with a computer making two selections, one for the jacket and one for the pants, is not that much more difficult. I have had them tailor those pants three times since I picked it up and I still don't feel like they fit right. It has annoyed me for years. Next time I get a custom suit I will make sure they select will select the initial pattern separately for each. (In addition I made a poor choice when it came to the length of the pant hem. While they recommended a shorter length during the initial fitting I knew at the time I would not like it. I should have trusted myself to know what I needed.)
Just like jeans, super skinny or spray on clothing on men is a no-go. However, just plain skinny suits/jeans are fine, if they compliment your body type. Skinny suits look great and are very stylish, if you can pull them off.
Please do a "muscles and suits" video. I've gained a lot of muscles over the years and suits don't even fit that well any more, especially on the shoulders/triceps. Would love to get some information on this as there's no RU-vid video touching on the subject
Nicer suits have a "athletic cut" option just like dress shirts or jeans. It may cost a little more, but the fit is more comfortable and very flattering. No tight shoulders, chest, sleeves, or thighs. The athletic cut allows for freedom of movement that is tailored to someone who lifts weights, without being too tight or restrictive.
I always tell my customers to stand up straight, then tell them to relax their arms. That’s usually the best way to get a normal person to stand naturally without slouching
I agree with 12 but one thing that just bothers me... is when it's not worn proper. I don't care if it's a 100dollar suit or a bespoke - I see so many people wearing ill-fitted suits that their hems are practically sweeping the floor, and their back pockets stretched out with wallet, phone and some towel(not a kerchief) to dab sweat. I don't think I'm "above" them, but I don't feel respect. Wear what you want but my only ask is, wear it properly.
@@nolamisskel You mean the so-called "Transatlantic accent", spoken by affluent people in New England and by actors. A very distinguished way of speaking English.
@@arishokqunari1290 The only way that he “hides” his American origin is that he uses a bit more precise diction than most, but not as overly distinct as the Caribbean accent of Geoffrey Holder or James Earl Jones. The Transatlantic accent is non-rhotic like RP, so he clearly does not speak anything like that.
They're from Minnesota (as am I). Putting aside the over the top stereotypical accent of the movie Fargo, the truth is that the people from the northern center of the US (Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Dakotas, etc) tend to have the most neutral speech in the country and, within the states, we're generally perceived as not having a regional accent. If one understands American English at all, he or she probably going to understand people from the midwest first before any other part of the country.
Flower, tie, and shirt combo is spot on, young man. The slick hair style is a bit old for you, though. This old lady likes hair on a gentleman to be a bit looser, especially when the hair is on the straighter side. Try drying to style, and hold it in place with Aqua Net; that stuff will lock your hair in place virtually all day.
I have a question; relating to rule 2, should I also remove such tags on ties? They are in places that aren’t usually visible when wearing the ties, but these tags seem a little out of place so I would think that they are meant to be removed after seeing this video
Good video but disagree with comments about removing stitching from outside pockets They should remain stitched to help maintain the shape and eliminate potential sagging Otherwise awesome
personnaly, I start on the HPS were neck attach to shoulder ligne to the wrist, and take 3 measurements along, shoulder length, elbow length, wrist length.
I’ve always hated the movie American psycho so I’ve never finished it, only seen it when it was on tv or at a friends house. But I didn’t realize I do the same thing as him “your compliment was sufficient Louis!” I don’t like people touching me. Haha
Imagine??! I worked in a world where everybody (heck, even many of the women) wore the same thing: Wall Street in the late 70's and early 80's! A solid pastel shirt with your blue or grey pinstripe suit was just starting to be seen but not always appreciated.
My best-ever suits were a Hickey-Freeman from the eighties and a Ralph Lauren from the seventies, athough I had to have the RL tailored since I bought it while wearing a bulky sweater. Oops!
1. No athletic shoes with suits. 2. No high water pants. 3. No polo shirt under the coat. 4. No thinking you look cool with your hands in your pockets. It looks like you're insecure and trying too hard. 5. No pretending your black suit is a tuxedo.
what about the removal of tags from one of the Gucci suits? Some of them seem to have a rather large appliquéd on 'patch' in same location as the sewn tag almost seems like part of the suit to be kept??