Thanks to Bill C. for the donation of a face plate to fit the Axelson lathe! There will be face plate work in the future exploring many lost machining methods on one of the earliest work holding devices.
Will be nice to see some video on faceplate use, not a lot out there. I have two for my Dean Smith and Grace, both picked up separately, one absolutely perfect then I got the second one which has a few extra holes for quite cheap, they are both 12" on a d1-6, not the easiest to find as most lathes with that size spindle are larger swing than 13.5". I also recently bought a really nice heavy 2 slot catch/ face plate thats about 9", its much nicer than the normal type. I got lucky and was able to buy a spindle reduction bush, just from listed dimensions to the nearest mm, and it fits perfectly, they used a 1:16 taper not a section of a big Morse taper like many lathes do, so getting one that fits without it being listed as for the DSG I consider a bit of a win.
The last face plate I found for a lathe long ago was lumpy but looked new, this one has holes and tool scuffs and runs true. I ran it up to 500 rpms and it has great balance. The only thing that came with this lathe was a heavy 12" Bison 3 jaw chuck in need of a jaw grind. I had to graft another brand steady rest, that took some time.
Nice faceplate. I have precision stones, but I make them myself. Since I don’t have a surface grinder, I cheat. I do have a lot of diamond plates. Several are heavy flattening plates. They are surface ground and then plated. Running a stone over that flattens it out very well. The way these things work is that the grinding process removes all of the points from the grit on the stone and leaves a flat grain surface. Because of this it doesn’t readily remove flat metal, but anything standing proud is sheared off because there is a tiny space between the flat grains. They work pretty well. But they do remove a very tiny amount from even the flat surface, but it’s measured in micro inches. Still, you don’t want to rub the same area over and over, as over the years, there will be a very slight depression, in the tenths. Some people insist that’s not true, but it is.
One way to clean the stones I've found is by using a bit of cardboard and wd40. Soak the stone in a spritz of wd40 and use the cardboard to "scrub" out the grime. Then rub the 2 stones together after wiping with your hand and they should be almost as good as new!
Amen. For many years I didn't have a mill and made due with creative use of a faceplate, an endmill, and a vice on the saddle. With some care and planning, it's essentially a horizontal mill.
HI Don. Nice to see someone taking the care to bring these old relics back to such nice shape. Watching the care and time you took to clean up the little nicks was great to see. The face plate for my Monarch comes from the US Navy. No telling what ship she was on and what repairs she made to keep a battle wagon going on the high seas. I'm proud to own it.
Pretty nice go-kart! lol Not too many interested in old way machining? The shake and bakers don't know what they are missing. Especially valuable for those like me who rebuild machines. I'm not at all interested in making chips but extremely interested in how the chip is made. Does that make sense?
@@DonDyarprecision Yep I'm on my second afternoon setting up the apron to re bore the hole for the hand wheel. It was so hot out in my shop at 9:30 tonight I had to come in. I was sweating like the only boy at the family reunion.
I’m finding out it’s even harder to find one for a D1-5 mount that’s 10-13” in diameter. The D1-6 mount is far more common than the oddball D1-5. But I am happy to see you was gifted such a nice one. 👍🏻
It has always been hard to find D1-5 chucks. When I am not looking is when I find the best things. The face plate will be great for videos! These were in common use in "the old days".
@@jasonhull5712 P&W invented the Camlock system. Lodge and Shipley invented the L type tapered chuck retaining system. People think the L stands for Long because it has a long taper, but it stands for Lodge. Enjoy ----Doozer
@@DonDyarprecision I guess videos about faceplates and toolmaker's buttons will have to do, until you decide to share more of your expertise on using the Moore. Thanks Donnie. --Doozer
