An absolutely fascinating video, and very well presented. It reminded me of some of the things I used to do when operating a Marron Carrell rostrum camera back in the 1980s. That involved a lot of back lighting, and masks and gels etc, under a very large motorised copy stand. And great see that the old Kodak SAV projector still has its uses.
Much to my wife's dismay, it support my belief that you should never throw anything away! Where else are you going to find a bright, cheap, cool (heat-wise), focussed, near 3200 degrees Kelvin light source that no one else wants. What I didn't show is you can connect a fiberoptic to the front as well. Thanks for your comment.
To Professor Spring: Thank you for sharing your knowledge on this subject. To the cinematographer: Keep the pans, focus changes, and perspective changes to a minimum. They distract from what's being presented. This is a technical instructional video, not a film-school project.
Really great video! I was wondering, are there any other lightsources that you might reccomend? (preferably budget) Or what are the characteristics of the projector as a light source that makes it especially suitable for this project? Is buying just the kind of lamp out of a projector and putting it in a different fitting perhaps an idea? Perhaps if youd shine it trough a (black?) tube, to eliminiate the extraneous light that goes around the object to aim it more into the center, going straightforward?
@@galespring9028 thank you so much for you reply! Is not everyday that I browse on YT for videos with pen and paper in hand as when I watch your videos. Looking forward to seeing the BCA conference highlights. Thanks again for the great content, Mr. Spring!
Where did you get the tabletop clamps that hold the glass? I’ve been online for hours and can’t find anything like them (well solder clamps but near as good).
Сейчас продают стёкла для телесуфлёра 70\30. Они имеют тёмный цвет, как HD фильтры. возможно их применять по вашей схеме? Есть полупрозрачное стекло 32х32 мм от микроскопа. Как вы думаете , оно подойдём для съёмки монет?
Thanks. I have read about this lighting technique before in an old Petersen's photo book from the 1970's. I guess it is better to use a continuous light over a flash so you can see what is going on. I like the idea of an old slide projector. I may pick up a slide projector.
Thanks for your comment. The technique has been around for a long time but finding info on it is very difficult. Yes, a continuous light source is best so you can see the effect. I have built a system that uses a fiber optic and mono bloc flash head. Modelling light and flash - the best of both worlds. But honestly, I usually use a slide projector on most larger objects.
Thank you for this! It's a great video made by a person who actually knows what they are doing, I was beginning to think RU-vid didn't allow such a thing. I appreciate it all the more after wading through the dreck created by people trying to make how to videos as they themselves are figuring our how to.
@@galespring9028 thanks. I kind of dropped out of photography to pursue mechanical engineering. I love things like this where I can do both. (Now I just need to find a project which needs this technique)
Excellent video sir. Two questions: 1. Is there anything special about the glass ? or is it regular clear glass. 2. Your stand is over 200 bucks in amazon. Any idea on a different stand that still does the job ? Thanks
I just became aware of your question. I'm sure you have moved on by now, however, here are the answers. In my (affordable) example, I use the thinest glass I can find. Strangely, the one I used for this is an Ikea small picture frame glass - thin and cheap. (Technically, the best option for the glass is a semi-reflecting mirror made for scientific work. If you think $200.00 for a copy stand is high, you don't want to know how much semi-reflecting mirrors are!) The copy stand I use is a really good one since I use it a lot. You could use a tripod that lets you reverse the column so the head is pointed down. Fiddly, but would work. Good luck with your shooting.
Very useful for me and the many more who will see this video in the future. Earlier today I looked up semi-reflecting mirror pricing and was treated to an unpleasant surprise. Good to hear cheap, thin glass is a recommended budget route.
I learned early in my teaching days at the university that students could break anything! I also learned a caveat to that: the cheaper it is, the less likely it was to be broken. After my first semi-reflecting mirror accident, I have not had a piece of cheap glass broken in more than 30 years! Go figure.
@@galespring9028 Dear Professor, despite the years that have passed, I wanted to thank you. I saw this video some years ago, and today I had a chance to experiment with it. I was quite surprised with the results. I was afraid the on axis light would diminish contrast to the point I would lose detail visibility. And it was the opposite ! Every surface that was not perfectly flat and parallel to the camera, is darker (perfectly logical once you think about it). I was really surprised by the amount of detail I could see in the coin. Your presentation was so clear and practical that i remembered it until today (just forgot to have something dark to absorb the light return. Indeed it does go back and washes out the blacks, but it was easy enough to correct). Thank you once more for sharing this technique in such a simple way. Cheers from France
Very good videos. Comment on glass. I am about to try using glass from old scanners or copiers. I think this would be an ideal glass. It will need to be cut smaller for ease of u I see we have 5 flat fielders at thumbs done. (Satire)
Now you can get your assistant to lie on the his/her side below the camera and plate glass and look in the ear and see what's going on down in there. Nothing like making your own otoscope. :-) Way cool technique. :-)
I don't understand this. Any serious coin collector will not allow anyone to handle their coins like dropping them in the plastic tube. Often coins literally loses hundreds of $ in value if you touch them even once. What are the options to using a film tube like that ? How about black acrylic plastic and then some black walls around that, but at a further distance ?
