On the last video, I went over the china scx10 ii axial chassis clone. Its called the Austar or Injora 313mm chassis and I got it off ebay for $100. I am adding a track bar or panhard bar in this video to improve performance.
I did a simple bump steer delete on it. Just mount the servo below the usual mount. No extras needed just screw it in under where you normally would on the same mount and that completely fixed it for me. The servo is a lil bit more visible but i run scale rigs so my standards for that are pretty high and it looks fine.
@@Stodgyaban_ hard to explain. Litterally just mount servo below the traditional mounts. No extras needed it is simple. Moves the servo down decreasing bump steer.
Had to watch it like 5 times but just did mine today gotta follow every step and works like a charm. Had to buy a 15.5mm servo horn but got it done ✅ Very helpful video
Great video, thanks. I just finished doing this to mine and it worked great. I used the link I removed, cut it down and re-tapped the threads to make it into the track bar.
Great video man very helpful I was about to throw my car across the room because I couldn't figure it out and then I watched your video for 4 minutes and figured it all out thank you so much i hope mine works great now
I've heard that before about the 3 Link with Panhard.... Can't remember where! It's worth the extra couple of bucks for an Aluminum Mount. 😉 No way you could have put a Spacer on the Plastic Axial Shock Hoops, to move out the Track Bar forward. Would have twisted the Plastic, and possibly snapped. 95mm is about the maximum heighth you'd ever want. ..... But there's always the "Flex Friday" Guys!! 😜
The axle was alot more forward on the clone than a real scx10 ii. If it would have been in the same spot, I wouldnt have had to use a spacer. I will have to change everything to fit the jeep body anyway.
I recommend spending a little more money and getting the scx10 ii builders kit. It's a better quality platform to start from in my opinion. The ssd trail king is even better but more pricey
Mine came with this axle with a trx4 2 speed transmission and 3 link set up?.. the top link is on the passenger side. Would the geometry still work for mine? Thank for this video.
Just because you were asking, 😉 Panhard-Levassor was one of the earliest car makers, and Rene Panhard invented that bar or rod to stabilise their own vehicle's suspension way back in the 1920s! A genius move for sure! And here's a car they were selling right before WW2 happened, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panhard_et_Levassor_Dynamic#/media/File:Panhard_Et_Levassor.jpg Crazy but cool right?
Is it as simple as switching the hubs from one side to the other, or did you need a new passenger side hub? I thought I heard "switch"....(I'm a noob). Also, did you make the 95mm track arm or purchase it? BTW, I have zero clue as to what I am doing. I can't even tell you very much about F150 FX4 truck.
so im running 110mm shocks on the same clone chassis in the video would i need to use a 110mm track bar, i did all the same things you did step by step
Great explanations! I’ve a similar chassis but having no panhard bar create mor issues than only bump steering... the car doesn’t steer well in one side because the servo pushes first the whole axle before the wheel!!! I haven’t hear of that much.... 🤔 weird?
Idk of you will see this but I have just ordered one of these I have no electronics and it's my first it comes with a motor but idk what to run on electronics. But definitely subscribing bud
If your on a budget, I recommend the Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 esc, its usually under 20 bucks on ebay or Amazon. If you dont have a radio I recommend the Flysky gt3c, a great budget radio with alot of options. Usually under 50 bucks on ebay or amazon.
Great video! I did part of it from the beginning since the hole steering its invested. How did you managed to reduce the stock rare camber angle on the front wheels?
I shortened the upper link to swing the drive shaft angle down, this helped alot, but you kinda get what you pay for with these things, 10 ii axles is a much better upgrade for it since they are adjustable
This is the first video I’ve see where someone explains rather well how to properly setup a Panhard/3-link suspension. Questions; 1. Ideally the steering link should be the same length as th track bar? 2. Which upper link should I remove? I’ve seen most will remove the driver side link. You did the opposite. Does it makes a difference?
In a perfect world, the steering link and the track bar should be the same length and parallel to each other at the same angle, but the way these are designed you can't always do that. Just try to get it close and adjust as needed. It doesn't matter which upper link you remove, unless you use a off center differential like I do in a newer video when I install the ssd axles.
I shortened the upper link to swing the pinion angle down to straight. That took care of alot of it, but the best thing you can do, is take these axles out and throw them in the trash! Lol. Replace them with 10 ii axles or equivalent, they are adjustable.
The STRC part # is STA31380FGM. The Jeep hard body requires the SSD scale transmission or a forward mount tranny with a transfer case to get it to sit low on the frame without chopping the floor.
I have the Injora Clone, with the motor in the front. I shortened and longer steering and panhard link, but it steer a little bit when the shocks are fully extend. I also longer the upper link by 2mm and the lower ones by 5mm to get my clearance and wheelbase. Does this effect anything? I'm a little bit confused. Does the position of the servo effect anything? I was forced to put him further back, maybe 5mm.
The steering link and panhard link need to be close to the same angle, if one is angled more than the other one it throws everything off. It's a game of trial and error. Also remember to remove one of the upper links if you haven't already.
Great video, I have one of these too,which I want to rework. Question-would the servo mounted to the axle not be a simpler and better solution? And if no, why? I have to order parts including new metal shock towers but am thinking of going the servo mounted route.
If you have the room in the chassis when the suspension is compressed and the servo won't hit anything above, it should work for you. The chassis mounted servo allows for more room and a more realistic look to their full size counter parts.
@@oddsandendsrc Thanks for your reply. Room isn't an issue, I have a heavily modded LWB Land Rover hard body that it matches up to, this will be a trail truck, no rock crawler. Prefer the chassis mount for neatness but I can see, like you, that there is room for improvement! Will watch your vid again and decide which way to do it. Thanks again for posting, subbed.
Thanks for the great video! I got one and dont know what shock tower suits with this chassis. I bought one but it doesnt fit with the chassis. Could you share where you buy this shock tower?
Being the chassis is made so cheap, quality is not the best. I have 3 of them, 1 I used in the videos and 2 others. The 1st one I used the STRC scx10 ii ones and they fit perfect. The 2nd one I built, it was like the frame rails were fatter and the STRC tower didnt want to fit. I used a dremel on the shock tower and ground on it till it would fit the frame rail.
@@ripmax333 I just checked and it is, but if yours don't want to go, don't force it. I have had 3 of these, sometimes they forget to drill holes, or drill them to small, you might need to drill it out a little.
@@oddsandendsrc that what I’m going to do, drill a 2.5mm hole or slightly bigger a use a 3mm bolt. I asked because i didn’t know if there are rod -ends that use smaller dia bolts. And without the track bar, does the axle goes side to side because of slop through the rods balljoints?
@@ripmax333 most rod ends use a 3mm hole. After you remove one of the upper links, the axle will move from side to side without the track bar. The track bar makes it solid.
Hi. I have 3 link setup but i got strange problem. When car is on ground and i turn the wheels to full left and full right then my chassis lean to left or to right. What can be the problem?
@@trebor1477 I do not have those. It sounds like your track bar and your steering link are not the same lengths, or at the same angle. If you or a friend has a stock scx10 ii laying around, take a look at how the track bar and steering links are the same length and angle.
@@oddsandendsrc angle is prfect but lenght is little diferent for7mm diference. But funny thing i allready got it in working order. But i went from 270mm to 310mm and i use this yota axles. Ok panhard mounts are DIY. But it was working before. That is strange. And the only diference is longer chassis and front links.
@@trebor1477 When you moved the front axle forward, you changed the geometry of the track bar and steering link. you will need to move the chassis panhard mount forward also.
This chassis is really cheap like only 70 right now, if i wanted to buy it just as a basher because its so cheap and not do any crawling would it be fine stock? Thank you!
@@lzkids3431 it has been a while since I did that, I no longer have those axles, but it was very simple I think there was just a screw or two that holds it on. You just take them off and switch sides.
You get what you pay for. Shocks were too stiff and locking up, poor front end geometry. Plastic gears in the tranny. I upgraded everything except for the frame in newer videos. If it will get very light use, might be ok, buy name brand if you want full potential.
@@oddsandendsrc Fully understood ;-) Unfortunately the good kits are quiet expensive here in Germany. Element, Gen8 or SCX10ii kits cost roughly €250+...do you have an recommendation . good value kit, not for competition, but should have potential from the beginning?
It was 95 from eye to eye. remember, if you have taller shocks it will be longer, shorter shocks and it will be shorter. Just fiddle with it till the axle is center.
Sorry if I came off sounding negative. Most china knockoffs will end up costing more money in the long run because of low quality parts used in these will fail quickly.
@@oddsandendsrc yes I understand and getting stuff in UK is hard ,but you would be surprised on how strong the gears are in the gearbox if you pack it with lithium grease ,apart from the crappy shocks mine is super