It's the first half of the build of the new 1:32 "Studio Scale" Star Wars TIE Fighter from AMT. A lot of long winded explanations of what should be simple. I won't be offended if you turn the sound down
I have built this kit and put led inside. the laser cannons have to be shortened. the detail is awesome. I recommend this kit for all star wars fans. Thank you for sharing
Coming along nicely. You mentioned at the beginning of the video that this is studio scale. Round2 is calling it their studio series. The studio scale models were 24th scale. The reissue of the Darth Vader Tie Advanced is listed as 32nd scale, and the first thing I noticed when I opened this up that the Darth Vader Tie Advanced is much smaller. I talked to Jamie Hood at Round2 and he told me that they really don't know what scale the reissued Darth Vader Tie is. He also told me that although this Tie Fighter is being called 32nd scale, that it may not be exact. Either way it is a very nice model and will make an impressive display. Have a great weekend.
I am about finished with mine. I think I got a factory flawed mix-up. Each wing has two each of sprue part #3,#4,#5.... Well mine had (in total) 4 #4s 3 #3s and 5 #5s. That made one wing with tab holes open. Not tab to hole...but hole to hole. Glued all panels and filled holes with UV Epoxy. Glad that all glue joints get covered by wing frames. I have not decided how to display mine yet. Great work you have done.
I love your idea for the display base. I may borrow that whenever I get around to building one for myself on day. And I DO think it is a simple kit to put together. No deception intended. LOL.
So you noticed too - that of late, Tamiya’s flat and semi-gloss has very little difference is surface reflection. They have almost totally the same flat surface reflection. That is the same for the bottles and spray cans. I wonder if their quality control has been off.
Your wing challenges reminded me of building the large spaceship from Forbidden Planet. The hull panels in that build had worpping issues too that gave me frustration.
There's a ton of reference photos online and it looks like those guns are correct. It's also possible different studio models had different gun lengths. They probably didn't worry too much about it as no one would notice. Just like the X-wings had different paint schemes but weren't always used consistently for each pilot.
I’ve never built that style of TIE fighter, only Vader’s (way back in the 1970s). The lasers on that kit looked way too short so I lengthened them, only to find later that the kit was actually pretty accurate. Of course it was a lot later because reference materials just didn’t exist until the movie was released on VHS. This is another example of how easy modelers have it these days- even if you don’t want to buy the sourcebooks the internet contains tons of free images as well as good quality video clips and even audio clips. Can I make a production related suggestion? Find a small monitor that your camera can talk to, and mount it where it won’t be visible to us but easy for you to glance at to see what’s in frame. I don’t think that I can adequately explain how frustrating it is for you to be describing what you’ve doing *just out of frame*, and by the time you find time to do the tedious, laborious editing it’s way too late to reshoot. Don’t mind me. I’m just an older f@rt than you with really bad eyes modeling vicariously through you and other RU-vid modelers.
Yes I agree with you those clear pew pew pieces are too long. I would say they should be about half that length. But I just went and looked at a 4K77 copy of Star Wars, this is the original cut, no replacement CG and there is 1 shot during the final battle where a Tie Fighter is just rotating on the screen and you know what it does look like it's that long like on the kit. However it's not clear. It appears to be painted the same color as the body. Also if they made it clear with the blue screen method they used back then the clear piece would probably disappear. So maybe do the shaft body color and just the tip in clear?
I love the floor lighting. Using multiple LEDs paid off. The sheen you ended up with on the wing panels looks perfect to me too. Those guns and the massive interior do look suspect. It is hard to imagine they would screwup such details, especially with todays knowledge and technology, but the history of model making is fraught with such errors. I’d do what you are doing too, go with it. It makes for good discussion fodder.
This looks like a well engineered kit. Glad to see how you are putting it together and its challenges. Those wing struts are clever but I would have definitely messed that up. It looks almost the same size as the Hasbro TVC toy. MPC has really stepped up its game
I recommend Mr. Surfacer Black 1500 as a alternative to the Tamiya & dollar store paints. Krylon #1311 Matte is what I use for my clear coat. It has a sheen between flat & semigloss. As for glue, what do you use? Tamiya Extra Thin has a tiny brush included in the cap for application. In case you don't know (I learned never to assume) Tamiya Extra Thin has some pretty incredible capillary action. Put the parts on, then run a line of Tamiya Extra Thin down the edges and let it flow. If the brush is too inconvenient, use a insulin syringe. I've found that to be the most effective and accurate applicator available.
Hi - great vid - I’m revisiting as I’m returning to working on mine soon. Can you confirm what gauge the wire was you were showing us in the box of reels?
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and process on so many builds! Always look forward to your posts each week! I was wondering if you might be able to share where you get your small red/black tiny gauge twisted pair wiring you use on your LED strip lighting, or the name of the product? Thank you so much! Please keep up the amazing work!
I wonder how well it would work to use the circut board out of a led lightbulb with a bit of light defuse to light from the bottom of the cockpit. It would be an easy wire job if using the provided stand.
Looks great! I'm doing the smaller 1/89 scale from Ertl/AMT Imperial TIE Fighters (1997) right now. The interior is not at all accurate, but I think I could still make it look pretty cool!
Sir - excellent video as usual. Could you kindly advise on the catalog / part number for the Striveday electrical wire kit you show at the 36:50 minute mark? Cheers!
Maybe use a Star Wars The Vintage Collection tie fighter pilot figure instead of the one that came with kit. It’s already detailed, but may perhaps be too big.
You're right-- the pilot size can't be correct! Nothing in all my years can convince me that is right. But, as you say, those guys are real busy figuring all this stuff out. How can they be wrong? So there's the face-off. But, as they say, the best pilot you have is the one you've got. Your lighting solution is practical but I do wonder about the very same thing you do-- how far should those things stick out? But if I don't have a better solution, I should shut ma mouf!
Lou + this is the one i like you paint your tie fighter tge color you want i agree with you 100% i am definitely getting two of these kits lou do they have a photo etch set for this kit ?
@@aztekdummy + Lou to see how long the Lazer cannon's are just look at the pictures of the studio models everything is there the actual studio models I've downloaded a lot of the pictures on to my tablet as photo reference
Well, like I said, I'm sure they relied on the experts, I just said that I thought they looked long. I made mine the same size, just out of other materials.
I just got one of these kits there is a really nice 3D printed one on gambody I just got as well, The force is strong with this one but you not a Jedi yet