it's the "Dia de los Decalos" as we finish lighting and decalling the interior of the EVA pod. - Installing the tiny video monitors - painting the door and ceiling - and more
This is an incredible build. I love all the lighting, what a cool model. I wish the original pods were still around, but I heard that Kubrick had everything destroyed.
Any information yet regarding purchasing those tiny screens? I know in a past video, you mentioned that the gentleman that supplied them to you would let people know about if he going to sell them or not. Thanks Lou. Your work is very inspirational. Richard
A very nice and productive week Lou! I was also thinking to do the turntable as a base when I do my build ( if I dare to start the build in the future ) thanks for the tips and I’ll wait impatiently for your masks and also next week build!
Ah nuts. The moment I saw those fantastic miniature screens I knew it was going to cost me a good few weekends hard work and that there was no way I could build my recently acquired Pod with just plain ole-fashioned back-lights. Modelling will never be the same. I have some screens on order (at the crazy price of £2.85 each!!!)and will see what I can do with them. BTW, the ones I have ordered are for smart watch applications and has the electronics exiting along one narrow edge of the screen leaving the other three edges clear.There is no 'big' circuit board on the back either so it looks like they can be stacked to almost touch along the edges if required.
I just received this kit and want to wire it for lights and sound! You have given me some pointers on how to tackle this project! Have you thought of onion paper to diffuse the light? I built an AMT Enterprise D with fiber optics and bulbs for the nacelles. The instructions suggested onion paper in the nacelles to diffuse the six bulbs installed in each nacelle. With the tinted clear parts of blue and red, you couldn’t tell there were six bulbs glowing. That onion paper was VERY effective!
If you are using the same voltage for all the colours of your LEDs, the blue will be the least bright due to the higher forward voltage required to light them. Example: Red 2.0 Volts - Yellow 2.1 Volts - Green 2.2 Volts - White 3.2 Volts - Blue 3.5 Volts.
This is great. Btw, I realize those screens aren't available anymore, but I'm very curious as to how much they cost. The reason being is I'm looking around for an alt and would love to have a baseline cost. Many thanks.
@@aztekdummy :: GIFT?!? Rub it in bub! :D That price ain't so bad, really. Especially compared to what I've seen people pay for stuff in World of Warcraft... 😱 Anyway, thanks for the insight, it should help when looking into the BrickScreens by brickstuff.com.
Looks great Lou! I dropped your name in a comment to Adam Savage through his Facebook page. He's starting this build as well. I mentioned the issues with the decals and he should check out your vids. Can't wait to see the next installment!
Lou PLEASE PLEASE Tell us where can we get the tiny screens? It get stressing looking at your wonderful build video and can not find where to get the tiny screen system. Thank you for your help. Darryl.
sorry, my buddy decided not to pursue making these monitors commercially. What I got is all there is. I know some other folks have made their own. do a search on carl darby
Lou Thank you for replying. I did last night leave a request to Carl Dardy. Carl also does not note where to get the screens. There were other modeler ask him the same question, sadly he would not reply. We fell this would be a good market for someone to make these units. Could bring $250.00 for the screen and sound kit! Again Lou thank you for your Help. Darryl
I dare anybody building this model kit to put in a Homer Simpsons action figure as a temporary placeholder astronaut...! It's coming off nice! As long as the main console is lit, do you have to worry about stuff like the sign on the hatch? Who's going to see that most of the time? I'd think the main control panel and front floodlight are the big things to tackle (as well as maybe HAL's eye which may have not have to be lit; couldn't that be faked with the right color paint?) and it looks like you've got that all tackled. This looks like a very nice kit for the 50th of 2001: A Space Odyssey which I HAVE to seriously sit down and watch again, THIS time in hi-def. I don't think I've seen that film in over 30 years.
Brilliant build so far on the access hatch have you considered slightly sanding the inner runners to a minor concurve (if possible) to give the clearance to avoid rubbing where not wanted
Lou+ I just had a thought on those little monaters I was thinking about the U.S.S. ENTERPRISE bridge that round2 repop I bet that would be a good idea for the main viewing screen just a thought if they make them in that size I have that kit just haven't gotten around to it
Here’s my hypothesis of why warm whites gelled blue worked better for you than blue leds behind white plastic: our eyes see red and green light way better than blue light. If you compare a blue led and a red led producing the same amount of photons, the blue wavelength light will look dimmer to our eyes than the red wavelength light. Your blue leds pretty faithfully pump out blue wavelength light, leaving your red and greens to fill in the rest of the spectrum. On the other hand, your blue gel is taking white light and reducing the red and green light, but not completely blocking those wavelengths. So you see a lot of visible light that is relatively weighted towards blue. Your eyes (and camera) see bright blue buttons.
Very nice indeed, looking forward to starting my kit shortly, once your masks are out. Any new yet on how we canget hold of those monitors, they look awsome.
Looks good! I had a thought about your door problem, have you ever thought about using EL Tap or Panel its flat. Check out Christopher Olson he is building the Revell 1/48 Tie Fighter Pt II Wings Pilot and Cockpit. He is using a red panel for the Cockpit and I think if you get a white one it will work for the door.
Hi Lou. It's looking really good. As regards powering the front screens, obviously they have breakout connectors for the power (I can see the wires connecting the two boards). What are the specifications for the power inputs? Do they need exactly 5V as supplied by the USB connector? If they have a voltage regulator on board you may be able to power them by simply running wires to the power connectors. It would save having to shoehorn a USB plug into the build. It would need a check of the board datasheet but it's worth a look. Took a few seconds for the old noggin to trawl through the databanks and locate the "Silly rabbit" reference but got there in the end! Can't wait till next week.
Just started to watch your video's to get some color information on Saturn V's and kept watching when you got into the LED's. I work alot with LEDs with my Halloween display each year and this is interesting. I've always wanted to light up my Star Trek Fleet. Did you ever do a LED workshop ?
hang on. they're coming very soon. I've got the masks pretty much done. But I don't want to put them out until I've tried them out on my build. I've got the interior 98% done and I've got the masks designed for the outside, it's just a matter of putting them all together. Stay tuned!
@@dukebosso8293 I'm not sure.I'll probably go with Duplicolor Universal white. reason is all of those decals. since they'll need to be sealed in. so, a coat of the dupicolor , clear gloss, decals then a coat of clear satin
