it's the continuing saga of the Space Station V kit from Moebius. this week we build and the Construction Ring and make a horrible (but not fatal) mistake Construction and painting is finished and I can light it and make it spin.
When you plug in the guitar jack and spin the station you should hear Johnny B Good! Just saved this build series for future reference. I have to admit it’s definitely a bucket list build. Bravo!
1/4 jack GENIUS! My 1st job was @ RadioShack lol as an old musician / live audio guy such a simple solution to an otherwise perplexing conundrum. You ROCK Lou!! Great project. Thanks!
Don't worry about it Lou, it happens to all of us. Life would be boring without the bumps. And I do believe partial fault should be on the instructions. Still came out looking great!
Lou, Take solace. I think you know I am hip-deep in building SSV out of paper. The original Uhu pattern has fronts and backs and ups and downs. The first iteration of the pattern I built is as completely ass-backward as I could get it. All them red thingies look alike. Totally ignoring the fact that there is a front and back of the completed ring. And... a 12 o'clock, 6 o'clock and so on. You really have to hold your mouth right to get that thing lined up right.
Of all of the Sci Fi films you’ve modeled, why worry about your 2001 subjects being painted “Too monolithic.?” Seems appropriate to me. As plain as a black rectangle right outside one’s cave, so to speak. BTW, I remember reading about how, while shooting the space station sequences, they’d have to pause to let the lighting cool off. Imagine the pieces of model kit cladding that could pop off while being baked from the inside (all lighting was incandescent then) spun at various speeds (and filmed at differing frame rates) while being side lit by powerful lamps.
Hi Lou, it looks stunning and the Jack spinning connector is very clever👍🏻. I know that feeling when I realize that I screwed-up, the rush of heat coming to my head, at the end it doesn't show at all, it's perfect🤩. I looked-up the price for the kit, it's actually quite reasonable, I was expecting hundreds, that's the price of a good 1/32 fighter jet, about $ 130.
You should have warning sign ... Beware of Flying Clamps ... The 1/4" headphone jack is a good choice. I did something similar on my AMT Klingon Bird of Prey. Slip rings are another choice, but might be a bit more limiting on space and torque requirements ... Can't wait to see it rotating!
Don't be so hard on yourself, Lou! Everyone makes mistakes or yields to prejudice when you *know* what thing's are supposed to look like... We've all done it. Well, most of us anyway. But right now, you lead the way. Oh, right-- we can help you verbally drub you, no need for you to try any harder. Still, old comrade-- still bravura model-making and your scheme to bring power plus rotation is pretty good. I am not skeptical of this part but do wonder what your plan is for the actual rotating. A rubber wheel on the bottom? Why not. My plan is industrial slip rings, bearing mounts on a central rod and a worm gear motor in a rather large enclosure. We'll see! Cue the Blue Danube, indeed. I also would seek out a whiter white. The paint color used back in the day was called out as "anti-blast white." We may call it photographer's white nowadays. A high white with a hint of cool grey. There is also a warm photographer's grey which I prefer (especially when I had my own apartment, to paint the walls with!). What may be called "linen white" or, bless us and Duplicolor, "refrigerator white." It is wonderful to know and give credit to the designer and renderer of the instructions-- it is a bonus for us out here to have him celebrated as there is no credit given. Which is shameful. My only crit of the instructions is the use of a constant line weight. If only the huge amount of detail were mitigated with say, half that line weight. It would look cleaner and be easier to read. I think. Seeing it spin while all lit up is transforming! Good work! Very much looking forward to the finale of this beauty and of course, Bruce!
The line width on the instructions was the very first thing I brought up to Jeffrey. Also the lack of assembly order ( do part 63 before 57, that sort of thing )
Lou did you consider adding a slip ring power supply/motor combination to allow for power to the space station as well as the motor to spin it at the same time?
It wasn't a mistake. It was a happy little accident. I bet it looks better with the knobs on the outside mimicking rivets or screws? So you did mention a motor. Are you planning to spin it? Just looking at it I'm wondering if just a simple rubber roller at the bottom of a stand is enough to turn it.?
Hi Lou. Really lovely result 👍 👏. I have used the 1/4" jack technique on a few of my builds in the past and it generally works a treat. I am interested as to how you plan to support the model using the jack as I suspect that there will be quite a bit of stress on it. As for motorising it, that will be a feat!
Looking good so far Lou so much so I may invest in one, can't wait to see it mounted and turning. will you be including masks for the parts you thought were unlit but are in the mask kit ?
Oh I know what this kit needs lou....a Weeee 3D printed space clipper shuttle. Enjoy your July 4th holiday lou, we in the UK will be voting for the lesser of two evils lol.
Since I know a magician, or did, really, I know of the tiny strong thread that's used to magical hold objects in the air. The Magic Makers Invisible Thread. Might be an interesting way to display something like this..Just up above with no visual signs of support. I guess this really needs that single point of light to help make the surface as detailed as possible, cause as it looks to me, it needs a thin black wash.
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If you don't konw about the 'bumps'/ 'rivets' and most of us would not, at the end of the day does it matter? They are a rather small detail, rather then mucking up something that's "in your face" so to speak...
