Thank you so much. Wish I’d found this 2 months ago so could have fixed my system before the Kansas summer. 😞 This video will save me a lot of $$, why I haven’t had someone fix it yet.
Hello. Sometimes the RU-vid algorithm is good to us and sometimes it’s bad to us. In any case, I hope this video helps you in the future! Best of luck and thanks for commenting!
You are very welcome! Yes, there are plenty of shady repair people out there giving the trade a bad name. Hope this helps to fight against them. Best of luck!
The training, testing & certification to be a General Tester is very expensive. So is the test gear. So unless you're going to be testing a lot of devices over the course of 3 years (recertification time), it's not cost effective to get certified.
Thanks to you and this video I was able to repair the leak and didn't even have to buy anything. Just went and made sure all the parts were installed correctly which they were not. THANK YOU!
Thank you so much for your video. I was able to fix my Febco 765-1 in less then 10 minutes. Great reminder about relieving the pressure before fixing. As a teacher for 22 years you did an amazing job teaching me! 😁
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Had no idea what to do and our limited sprinkler fixers in our area are booked solid. Going to give it a good before heading back to the move it around sprinkler! Thanks again!
NICE!!!!! Now I can just screw the air chuck in the preventer. If it makes it leak after a few years, 15 buck repair. They say dont pump air through the backflow but I am lol
Hello. Lol, you probably wouldn't be surprised how often people comment and tell me not to put air to the system. What they don't realize is that I have shut off valves before and after the air chuck, so it's a safe procedure. I have heard horror stories of backflow preventors failing or misused, so be careful! Cheers!
Thank you! Saved me some $600 in parts and labor. I did have to buy an extra part beyond the ones in the kit you shared (my poppet assembly was a mess), but they are also way cheaper than a whole new valve, and the plumber to do the pipe work.
Excellent! I’m glad this video saved you a good chunk of change! Always a good thing when you can do things yourself and not have to call in the expert. Great job and thanks for commenting!
My wife noticed that there is a leak on the top cover of the valve and I had no idea how to fix that and then I have started researching on RU-vid and saw your video. It's pretty straight forward quick fix solution. 👍
Glad to hear the video was a quick fix solution for you. As was the intent! I much appreciate the comment. Always good to hear a success story. Thanks!
TY!!!! Great, Very Helpful video! I texted the sprinkler repair person I used last year but have not heard back from him. Then I thought I bet I can do it myself!!! With the help of your very informative video I am going to get the repair kit tomorrow. I took a picture of mine so I knew what I was needing to get and it all matches your information! YAY and TY again!
You are very welcome! I'm surprised they didn't call you back. Easy money for them! But you'll get good experience and save $$$. I appreciate the comment.
We experienced loss of water pressure in our house, with outside and out was leaking from the top. I stopped it from leaking by pulling up on the valve getting it to seal then turned back on the water. The house now has water but still low pressure. It’s a new build so it’ll be warranted.
Thank you so much for this video!! I was able to fix my leak in less than 5 minutes. All I had to do was take it apart and clean off the flat plastic washer, but until I watched your video I had no idea how to even take it apart. You saved me $125 for a visit from my sprinkler guy!
Haha, yes avoid that! Simply turn your water valve off that supplies the system then turn on your sprinklers. That will relieve the pressure. If you have check valves on your system like mine, you can turn the screw on those to open the valves. Hope this helps! Thanks for the question 👍
Awesome DIY video! Thax so much! The only problem is the Home Depot here doesn't carry the repair kit. Just the entire unit $97.00. So I just cleaned up and greased the one we had and it stopped the leak.
Just repaired a pair of brass anti siphons for some neighbors. Used left over parts (Orbit 53066 rebuild kit). Flat washers completely worn out. Plastic plungers needed replacing. Helps to bring old parts with you when finding replacements. Nice work! Good video!
thank you! I'm a new home owner and my preventer is leaking slowly so I think it's better to fix it rather than replace it. can you talk about how do I relieve the water pressure from the system in another video?
Hello :) Congrats on your home! If the leak is fixable, you’ll relieve the pressure by turning off the valve that supplies the water to your system. The location of valves vary per climate zone, but if in the colder areas like me, check the main water supply line and look for a line that angles off the main line and up to your sprinkler system. Usually pretty easy to spot. Once the valve is off, simply turn on your sprinklers and the pressure will bleed off. Best of luck!
Thanks for your no extra chatter video, much appreciated and helpful. One question, mine is mounted outside a bedroom, and in some zones, sometimes it "chatters." More than just the sound of water, sort of a vibration. My irrigation guy fiddled with it but it never seems to go away. Wondering if I could add spring tension? Perhaps use some silicone lubricant internally? The system works fine it's just annoying when it's running it early in the morning. Thanks.
Hello! Yes, the noises can be annoying. There’s really not much you can do unfortunately. It is usually a pressure related thing causing the noise, so maybe some of the valves controlling the noisy zones are not completely opening or are slow to open. Just a guess there.
@@FastFixRU-vid Thanks, I did take it apart and all the parts look good. I dried it and added silicone lubricant. At least initially that seemed to quiet it down really well. It would seem to me if I could just cap the stupid thing and leave the internals out, that would solve the problem permanently. What does that really do? I can't see a circumstance in which the city water system would suck water from my house, including my sprinkler system. Even if it did, wouldn't it just suck the clean water out of the system anyway?
I have test ports on mine. If you do not, shut the main sprinkler water line off. Then run the system which will open a few valves controlling each zone. This will take the pressure away. Best of luck!
My copper bonnet is corroded and beyond a screwdriver to unscrew... is there a lubricant or chemical I can use to slip inbetweeen it and the threads to loosen it up?
This is a great video, thank you so much! I have a follow-up question for you: At 1:04 your note says "make sure you've relieved all the water pressure in your system," but I'm not sure how to do that. I couldn't find any info online either so would love if you could share that as well. Thanks again!
Hello. What I meant by that was turning off the water. There should be a valve near your water main that connects to the sprinkler system. Close that valve then drain the water away or. Activate your sprinklers to alleviate the pressure. Hope this helps!
@@FastFixRU-vid Thank you, I ended up finding another video that explained it. Unfortunately both of the valves were so rusted that when I finally got them unstuck, they were leaking. But I was able to find replacements and swap them out quickly. I feel very accomplished this weekend! 😁
There's also a valve on mine just under the cap facing towards the front where you can use a standard screwdriver to open/close on the side. For me, I closed both valves from main and to the irrigation system, and then opened up this valve using the screwdriver and it released the water through the front. Once the water stopped, I was able to open the canopy without fear of it being pressurized.
Can I (should I) use plumbers tape around the bonnet before screwing it in mine is relatively new and after taking it apart everything seems to be in good condition, but I still have a low slow leak.
Hmm…if it were me, I might go with the Teflon paste (not plumbers puddy). I don’t think you’re risking much by trying that. Some will probably yell about it, but sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do. 👍
Hello. You’ll need to shut off the water supply which will relieve the pressure if your system is on. If the system is off, you have to relieve a check valve or other release system.
I really liked your video DYI. Why it is recommended that only a licensed plumber should install back flow preventer? I don’t see any complexity but wonder why? Anyways, thanks for putting together a short, informative and useful video.
Hello. Thanks for the comment and question. Several commenters have scolded me for posting this video asserting that only licensed plumbers should be working on backflow preventers. I have researched this assertion and discovered that a licensed plumber is NOT required to repair a backflow preventer. However, a licensed plumber IS required to install a new backflow preventer. So, unless you’re working on new construction, you can do this job yourself. I would advise you to check your local laws in accordance with my statements, however. But as far as I’ve discovered, you’re completely fine to fix this yourself. Glad this video was of some help.
@@FastFixRU-vid This was a question I had too and I am glad CB asked the question and you answered. I know I would never try to install a backflow preventer but I see how repairing it is a whole different issue especially when you are just removing defective parts and replacing them with new ones.
Thanks for the instructions! Really helpful. However its not $15, the repair kit by itself is close to $40 and the bonnet is another $20 with shipping. The plastic Canopy is $17 before shipping.
Ok yes you should put in video's to check you local utility if you can do this yourself ... Most states cities and or counties require a licence to do repair and or install of backflow preventers .. And the last part was proof of failer to state the pressure these have on them ... Also the reason why they give classes on this for them to be done by professional people .. You may want to watch those safety videos before you do one lol ..
Hello. I respectfully disagree. To say “most” require what you specify is misleading. In fact, I couldn’t find any local ordinances that require a licensed person to perform maintenance, which is what this is. What I did find is that an inspection is required by some areas and some inspections are required on an annual basis depending on your location. It makes sense to me that a licensed person would be required to do the installation on new construction. The home owner usually has the right to work on their own home, albeit that work may require an inspection. My $.02. Thanks for the comment.
Very informative video. I actually need to replace all of the parts under the cap since they're bent up and in bad shape. The issue I'm having is water continues to fill up to the top of my cap and either it refuses to drain out lol, or I'm missing a step. I shut the water off to the sprinkler system. How'd you get yours to drain the water from overflowing from the cap man?
Hello. Glad this video sort of helped you. So have you replaced all the parts that were bent up? If not, I’d say that’s your problem. If you have replaced all the parts and water is flowing out of the cap, it’s likely you just need to make sure your water valve is completely open. Water may flow out of the cap, but it will stop. This can take several seconds 5-10 or maybe slightly more. You just need to make sure the water open valve is completely open. If the cap doesn’t see enough pressure from the water line, it won’t seal up. So, give it full pressure and several seconds to close itself up. If after 15 to 20 seconds and it’s still flowing water, something else is going on. Please let me know how it goes. Thanks for the question.
Wow, really? Geesh, that’s crazy. I’d use a penetrating fluid of some kind. I use PB Blaster which you can find anywhere. Then try the screwdriver trick again or a pry bar if it’s that stuck. You may consider bracing the piping as it sounds like you’ll be applying max torque. Kind of sounds like a 2-person job. One to brace the piping and the other working the pry bar or screwdriver. Best of luck!
I have a Febco 3/4 back flow preventer. I changed the bonnet and poppet but it is still not working. The check valve seems to be ok, it is brass so no broken legs. Any ideas?
Hello. Is it leaking or not flowing water? I imagine it’s leaking. Did you also replace the seals and washer? I assume your Febco is similar in construction as mine having roughly the same parts.
Hello. You need to shut the water off or close the in-line valve. You could turn your sprinklers on at that point which will take the pressure away or if your system has test-ports, simply open those. You can see a test port sticking out of mine on the thumbnail used in the video. Hope this helps
Hello. Use a screwdriver like I did. Put constant and equal force on it rather than applying as much force as you can generate. They get stuck on sometimes over time. Try clockwise and counterclockwise force as well. ThT may help to loosen it. Hope this helps
Hi, I replaced the same parts you did, but now my damn pressure relief valves are leaking, no matter which way I turn them. Any idea what they're called so I can order some replacements?
Dang, bad luck! These are known as test cocks, petcocks, etc... I don’t have a specific part number as these vary per application. It’s likely your big box home supply store will have a compatible replacement. I’d remove and bring with you. And for reference, to shut these test valves off, the indent for the flat head screwdriver should be perpendicular to test cock. Hope this helps.
Hello. Yes, that would be the right and correct thing to do. Will people do it? 99% say no… Ha ha ha ha good advice, though I appreciate it. Take care!
@@FastFixRU-vid Sadly most think backflow inspections are a joke. I’ve installed sprinklers since high school and didn’t know it was needed until 2019, so I took a class and became an inspector for the State of Idaho. In school we learned of an incident where a homeowner installed his RP backwards- city water shut down for a few minutes and came back on. It polluted the entire subdivision and sent 4 to the hospital that night! His homeowners insurance wouldn’t cover the cleanup cost. So not getting inspected can cost you…
It also depends on what kind of hazard it is. A PVB one like this is a light hazard and if it is connected to your water lines AFTER the meter you should be good without the inspections in most places. RPZ and DC are for higher hazards and wouldn't apply to just a local irrigation system. I repair and test backflows in the Southeast for commercial businesses and most of their stuff comes straight from the city water. Your installation is fine.
@@sugalumps3447 wrong, sorry. Sprinkler systems are considered a high health hazard according to the USSC manual. Testing requirements vary depending on the state (Texas recently removed all inspection requirements except for new installs and system changes) but generally the US code requires testing after installation, annual testing and testing with any system changes or repairs. In my experience MOST backflow assembly’s fail the first test I do, generally something in a check valve or a shutoff not properly shutting.
Hello. Did you try using a screwdriver like I did? If so and it’s still not budging, try and use a penetrating fluid like PB blaster. Just use sparingly. You dont want a lot of that stuff going into your system or on your lawn.
Thank you for your quick answer. I tried both of those things, while trying to get it off it twisted the PVC and it broke on one side. I took the backflow totally off and the ball valve had cracked. I bought a new one and ended up using it for a water shut off until I can get that part off...
@@doriaustin2488 oh wow. Sounds like it needed to be replaced in any case. Crazy the top wouldn’t spin off to the point that it caused the PVC to fail. That’s the first I’ve heard of that happening, but it’s probably more common than I think. Glad you got it sorted and no problem on the reply 👍 thanks for the comments and questions.
@@FastFixRU-vid Good afternoon, I got s little help from a friend from church, he got the top off for me, we had to use a vice. I will be fixing everything soon! Thanks for listening!
Hello. Make sure the valve is completely open. If not, it won’t seal up. Otherwise, inspect your work and make sure all the O-ring surfaces around with no flat spots and make sure the Teflon washer is also damage free. Please let me know if any of those things were your issue.
Hi Fast Fix, my Febco 765 outlet ball valve was coated with calcium build-up and corrosion and it's so hard to turn it off and on, so I replaced it with just a regular ball valve from lowes. When I turn on the inlet ball valve slowly the PVB won't stop discharging water and did not seal while I waited for a minute and the ground already starts flooding and I start worrying already so I just turn it back off. It was just fine before I replaced the ball valve. My questions are 1) should I turn it to full right away so that it will build abrupt pressure to seal the check valve inside? 2) Is there a specific ball valve to use on the PVB and I was using the wrong one that causes it not to seal? 3) I positioned the ball valve facing up not the same as the original position which was on the side, should it be positioned the same as the original one on the side? Any help and tips, please. Thanks
Hello. Give her full throttle and it should seal up. Mine does the same thing every spring when I turn the water back on. Sometimes it takes a few worry-some seconds to seal up, but it should if there’s nothing wrong with the PVB. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with the way you installed the ball valve. Feel free to update this thread with results.
@@FastFixRU-vid Thank you for your quick reply I will give it a try tomorrow morning and I will tell you the update I hope it will seal up and stop discharging water. By the way one thing I forgot to mention, while I was wrapping Teflon on the new ball valve I heard a click sound inside the pvb as if something fell inside. I was thinking it's the check valve that fell down when there was no more pressure inside.
Hello. If the screws are difficult to remove, try a screw gun if you have one. Borrow from a neighbor if you don’t. An impact version would be best. Otherwise, Make sure to use a screwdriver that fits snugly to the screw head. A mismatched screw driver won’t apply the proper torque and make it hard to work. If all that fails, you could lightly tap (and I do mean lightly) the blunt end of the screwdriver using a hammer. This may break the screw loose assuming it’s stuck because of debris. Be very careful doing that, however. Only use as last resort. There are impact screwdrivers that work great for removing stuck screws as well. Best of luck!
Make sure there is no water pressure in the system. If there is, it will be much harder to unscrew the brass piece. When you’ve made sure there’s no water pressure, try again. If it’s still hard to unscrew, apply consistent pressure for 5 to 10 seconds using the metal bar. Use a decent amount of force, but not enough to damage anything. Try tightening the brass piece as well rotating clockwise. This might help to free it up...sort of like if you were stuck in the snow. Reverse then forward, reverse then forward. It should come out eventually and hopefully will be your last difficult piece!
