A pile of rust on the ground and an assortment if broken tools tells the story of the day on this bus. The rusted brake caliper and rotor that should have been replaced decades ago are complete trash now.
Absolutely insane, why isn't there a way to hold bad/ dangerous mechanics accountable? I just worked on a trailer, it had 3 Haldex and 1 meritor slack adjuster, basically only 3 brakes were working. This bus could've easily gone up in flames. Neither of us has any legal way to hold the previous mechanic accountable.
A long time ago, a n old retired Roadway line mechanic showed me a way to help loosen a bunch of lugnuts like that. while one guy is hammering on the nut with the impact, another guy hammers straight down on the socket with a heavy hammer. It really helped me with those stubborn ones. Also Keine Tools makes a specialty fixture just made for truck disc brakes(air) that you can just jack them up and roll them away. Have a nice day.
IR makes pneumatic 1in that are a lot more powerful (2000 ftlbs) than the old bluepoint he owns and they cost cost about 700 bucks. Cordless is bullshit in a shop, especially when you consider the fact it isn't going to last as long as a pneumatic tool and isn't nearly as durable.
@theprofessorfate6184 that Milwaukee gun is awesome. One wheel in a year it struggled on. And the torque multiplier was going to break and still not get it. It broke the giant bud wheel socket.
I was at first impressed with the Prevost access panels for maintenance until you pointed out the sharp impalers left behind. I would have stuck a piece of packing foam on those because certainly my head would find them.
Couple tips from a 45 year machinist... take the extension off the Milwaukee. The extension absorbs a lot of shock without it.. that Shock will go directly to the socket and break Free More difficult nuts... also rap the top with a heavy hammer when you soak them and every now and then when they don't come Free... the shock helps loosen the thread and migrate the penetrating oil deeper... But it's mostly the shock.. You can get a high frequency to go right through that bolt ..
Thanks for the entertainment = struggling with tough jobs. As an Aussie I cannot believe the corrosion that can occur in vehicles in your environment. I have 60 year old cars with no rust. Keep up the good work
@@51actual Was at a movie setup the other morning and the gaffers had unloaded their truck (space was at a premium) and a cart with color coded "C" stands with a milk crate of yellow tennis balls was in the cart stack. Looking around I saw their use, got to think for everyone on a set...
I'd fluid film the entire chassis....I'm in the rust belt and I use fluid film on all my vehicles, motorcoach, trailers, tractors, ect... i put that stuff on everything.....i gave up on removing rust up here, just keeping it at bay is cost effective.
I never used rachets till I had stuff broke loose because they could break. (big farm equipment with big bolts). LOL we used a lot bigger cheater bars as there was more open space on farm equipment. (my uncle was 6-4 230) We also lost a lot of sockets as he dropped the tools where we worked once the job was done. I would like to get a metal detector and sweep the spots we worked. Bet we would find several sets of tools.
I was taught many years ago, that you do not use a ratchet wrench in high torque situations. Always use flex head bar. I guess things have changed in the last 60 years.
Those removable side are nice for when you have to chain up out west too. Been there done that.The D.O.T. Would have had a field day with that rotor. It really surprises me that bus did not burn down with those calipers as bad as they were! Wow. I cannot tell you how many ratchets,breaker bars, and sockets we broke over the years taking those caliper bolts out. We had the luxury of having an in ground hoist, so we would use a 3/4 breaker bar with a pipe, use a jack stand to support the pipe and let the hoist down. Lol
I guess all this work is cause by the lack of proper maintenance over the years. its amazing that you can really get this stuff apart and have anything left to work with,
it looks that this bus had a lack of maintenance and it is stuck with rust .May be this bus was decomitionned for quit a long time or that bus run in winter with salt and abrasive and remember this bus has been built in a place called ST-CLAIRE ,QUEBEC with rough winter ,so good luck for the rest of your repairs.
I was in a couple railroad shops years ago and I noticed the tools for the really big bolts were just thick plates steel stampings with the six point hex on one end and the handle end was made for either a hammer or very large extension bar --- no harbor freight ratchets or breaker bars or ratchets of any kind above a certain size - I also saw what had to be some of the biggest dam impact wrenches on the planet, looked like around inch and a half or inch and a quarter drive with sockets that would likely break your foot if you dropped one on it. I assume this kind of thing in the video is why.
Scott, this is probably one of the worst buses you have had to work on. I can appreciate the issues you have in North America because of road salt but I suggest that the state of this vehicle, the rust everywhere, general neglect, driving it on the roads borders almost on criminal neglect. The condition of this bus has taken years, not weeks! Its is shameful that anyone has let this vehicle get to its current state of general disrepair. I certainly hope that you can get it to a condition that makes it relatively safe to drive on the road, and I hope something can be done about the treatment of the overall rust. The very best of luck to you.
Lots of seized things on that Knorr-Bremse brake caliper. Tappets, pins. Probably had water egressed at the booster seal. A real struggle. Don’t miss those days!
Good luck trying to get these Lug Nuts off on the side of the road. Oh, well I've had a similar problem getting Lug Nuts off on my 4 wheeler after a Car Dealer visit
Sometimes, I threaded the bolt of nut back on a little to get the bolt nut out of the socket. Hammering the socket or the bolt on the floor or with a hammer sometimes worked it loose.
Never paint threads ! There is much discussion on the next comment, but I have NEVER had a problem. I apply a very thin layer of anti seize to wheel nuts, then I apply the correct torque with a torque wrench. Works like a charm. Mostly because I am the guy who has to remove the wheel next time !
No wheel manufacturers recommend anti seize on threads. None. Lubricated threads are a totally different torque value. Clean and dry with proper torque is perfect. Over torqued wheels from idiot installers is the problem.
I have never seen one rig...let alone one wheel/axle break so many tools. The kicker is that the rig is not horribly old...like Lenny. As for the ratchet failure...I thought the same thing as you did as to teeth/guts failing before the case. It makes me wonder how the tool mfr tests/breaks tools when they are in the design stage. A great video on a heckuva nightmare scenario...imagine if it had gotten a flat... You guys never cease to amaze me with the rigs you have brought to you and how many were just a hair away from something catastrophic happening. The motoring public thanks you in all that you do fixing other peoples eff ups and making things safe again🙂
All those bolts, nuts and bushings look original. Maybe the shocks could be newer but that’s it. I can’t believe people take care of their equipment so shoddily. At least you can exchange the tools.
Nice, dang that’s alot of work. That bus definitely did much of its service in the salt, guessing the passenger side is always worst because of the build up of slush on most roads goes toward that side. Need to try that 1/2” tite reach on those caliper bolts, I use my 3/4” drive Milwaukee impact on mine all the time and have hammered the crap out of it and it’s still going fine. I bought a backup one when you posted that discount but it’s still in the package so far.
With that calliper I am not in the least surprised as the required torque for the securing bolts is about 400 lbs ft. On the Volvo B7L they used cap head screws and could be a challenge the break loose… And those callipers are heavy old things as well. Given the amount of corrosion on the thing I suspect that your tool dealer will be rubbing his hands in glee.
I was told that if a vehicle you looking at is extremely nice outside. Most of the time there is something being hidden. Putting lipstick on a pig it's still a pig.
Speaking from experience, you may want to have that bus's owner pick up a spare disc brake chamber to carry with, i spent two days trying to find a shop that had one in stock. The chambers for disc brakes are different than the chambers for drum brakes, and don't interchange.........
😅you could save yourselves hours of frustration by using MALTBY Penetrating Oil. Family owned since 1919. I'm an ASE Master tech, been using it for 50 years.
He was literally using his fingers to pull flakes and chunks off the rim. Yes some of the pile was from the brakes but the rim is bubbling and deteriorating
If you have a quick disconnect coupler on 1 inch gun it could restrict air flow they make hi flow quick disconnect couplers try putting air line directly on gun
Got same Milwaukee gun and 12 amp batt ,, many times I go to braker bar and some cheater pipe to give me 2 half meters and I,m 52kg, it works for me unless socket brakes or I slip and go arse up , never happened yet cause I have a idea of 3 points of connection, 2 hands to grab handles or anything for support and then if it won't go with arm strength I go to never fail leg strength 😊 kicks air and Milwaukee arse many times ,, pissing me off that bloody Milwaukee cost us shiploads to buy and many times my cheater bar blitzed it, only good if studs had anti seized on them and not over torque, 2 of worst practices use anti seize and torque wrench, no more issues, bad studs or wheel nuts go in bin