Thanks for this video Jon. Good lessons here. Its true that the decision to bail is harder to take than the decision to keep going. We always have a tendency to think that "higher up it will get better" but, almost always, you are making things worst by keep on going no matter what.
The winner always get back alive. When you retreat after you gave anything you 've got is a half win. You always have the chance to come back for another try. Well done guys.
@@jonmurua what specifically is the hard part for this level? Fitness, forearms, confidence, I would love to know specifics on how you train to get here.
There are multiple factor. Fitness is indeed necessary, but I wouldn't say it's the limiting factor for such a technical route. I would say that strength; both upper and lower body can you give a margin and I would put it high in a training program. I start dry tooling around September to get the forearms ready for the winter. I'm this route, managing the forearm pump is key, as the climbing is slow, placing protection and finding holds. It's common to take one whole hour to climb one hard pitch! You also have to consider the expedition aspect. The first day, it's a long approach, you don't rest well in the short night in a bivvy. The route start already during the approach and the tiredness, both physically and mentally accumulates. I hope this helps. My training program is similar every year: dry tooling from September. Circuit training focus on abs and upper body. Plenty of pulls ups. And some cycling or ski touring to get a bit fitness.
@@jonmurua thank you for your input! I'm a trad climber going to climb my first glaciated peak the summer so it's very interesting to know what people at the top do. Do you think rock climbing would have a benefit for your forearm endurance? Currently I'm just running and climbing leading up to my bigger trips.
@TheSubieFan Rock climbing does indeed help (a lot) with forearm endurance, but there is nothing like specific training. You can simply try to hang on one ice axes, hooked to anything really, such as a balcony, and try to hold as much as you can
CONGRATS Master Murua!!!! GREAT Adventure!!!!!!!!!!!! CHAPEAU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! """""""""""Reaching the top is optional, going back is mandatory. (Ed Viesturs)"""""""" Best WISHES.
man, great video, nice try, i think about this rout since 2017, i was thinking about directe americaine since 2017 too and..... finalli done this year (movie yt soon), i think 2021 that will be the yer of north couluar for us! :D good luck! and congratulacion eiger N, we climbed there 32h nonstop in sugar snow :D
Well done for the directe américaine ! That was on my list for 2020 as well, but didn't happen in the end. We might cross each other in 2021 for the couloir direct ;)
I also bailed on this route. Myself, Mugs Stump, Randy Trover, and Jack Roberts climbed this variant for the first in July 1977. I got to where the normal route meets and bailed from there. We had climbed this most difficult variant but could not continue to the summit due to a severe storm. Snow, rain avalanche drove us back. Ten days later Tobin Sorensen and Rick Accomazzo climbed our variant to the summit. It was an all American effort.
Like the videos.... Its good to see how well you are progressing through the grades etc... Ive noticed on this video you struggling to get the blade of the Ergo's in the ice, sometimes.... maybe consider a pair of Cassin X Dreams you could set one in Dry and the other in Ice mode to give you options ??? Just a thought Jez :)
Well observed! I find the ergos fantastic for serious overhangs, but they are a bit too agressive for vertical-ish mixed terrain as the handle touches the rock too early not allowing the pick to enter in the right angle. This coming season I'll be testing the ergonomics and the nomics. I'd be keen to try the X Dreams as well :)
@@jonmurua if I ever get back to Chamonix.🤔😒..if covid ever stops I'll lend u mine to try. I had ergonomics, but preffered the xdreams....but it's all personal choice 👍😊
Did you also abalakov when you were on the technical pitches with no protection? How did you get down to the spot where your partner dug into the ice ?
There are supposed to be anchors all the way. In the technical pitches, we found them easily, but on the snow covered slabs we didn't find them. They were probably covered on snow, hence we improvised some avalakovs. It wasn't easy to build the avalakovs, because the ice was very deep under the snow
It's hard to say. I think it's best in autumn or early spring. Winter can also be good if there is not too much snow. Late spring is a bit risky, but it depends a lot in the meteorology. The snow cover we had was good, but it didn't get enough time to get transformed and it melt before transforming unfortunately.
I use them for ice climbing and North Faces. Although, I sometimes climb with ski boots as well. Fall, winter and spring, yes, but I wouldn't use them for climbing ridges, I'd take a semi rigid pair for that.
Salut ! Merci pour tes vidéos ! Je m'entraîne pour ce genre de voies... Ça donne bien envie d'y aller. Ça a l'air d'être aventureux à souhait ! Au plaisir de discuter une fois à totem ou au cube !
