Balsa USA Stingray with DLE-20, RC Plane Build N0 4: Wing Center Ribs and Dowels

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Welcome to my build series of the Balsa USA Stingray RC plane kit. The Stingray 120 is a great trainer and sport rc plane with an 83-inch wingspan and powered by a DLE-20 RC gas rc plane engine. I will be using a Futaba transmitter system with with Futaba or Hitec servos and receiver. This plane is designed for .80 to .90 2-stroke glow engines, .90 to 1.20 4-stroke glow engines, and 15cc to 30cc gas engines.
In this video I install the wing center ribs and dowels that mount the wing to the fuselage. I also show how to use thin CA glue and baking soda to fill gaps.
All of these videos will be placed on a playlist.
I have been building, flying, crashing, modifying, and repairing radio control planes (RC Planes) for many years and enjoy sharing what I do with the radio control plane community, so I started RC Plane Tech channel for fun. I am not an expert, there are many different techniques when building radio control planes. A good way to learn about flying and building rc planes is to see what others are doing, that's what I do and that's why I like to share what I do.
Thanks for watching my channel. Hopefully you will find my videos a little interesting and perhaps fun to watch.

Опубликовано:

26 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 16

@anthony3D 8 месяцев назад

Merci de partager la construction de votre aile avec nous 🙂

@JamesRCPlaneTech 8 месяцев назад

Thanks!

@robertmonroe2969 11 месяцев назад

I’m enjoying your build series, and I’ve learned a few things by watching. I appreciate that you showed the baking soda filler method. I’ve read about it, but seeing it makes more sense to me. I GOTTA get some of those 123 blocks!

@JamesRCPlaneTech 11 месяцев назад

Very nice, thanks! Ya I love the baking soda method, it comes in handy. Also you can just sprinkle it on ca if you accidentally put too much on and it’s taking time to cure. It will absorb and cure faster.

@stevejones9044 11 месяцев назад

Looking good. One thing I do to get clean drilled holes in these kits is to place a piece of painters tape on both sides of what I'm drilling. That mainly keeps the exit hole wood from blowing out often times chipping around the hole.

@JamesRCPlaneTech 11 месяцев назад

Nice tip!

@collinmccallum 11 месяцев назад

looking good!

@JamesRCPlaneTech 11 месяцев назад

Thanks!

@tomflynn7373 11 месяцев назад

James, nice video. Your life and useful will be much easier if you buy a small Wen sander for under $100. It is the tool I use the most when building kits and ARF’s. I can sand square, strait within a few thousands. I also find a six inch dial caliper is much more useful and accurate than metal ruler/scale. I use them for a lot other things though. You can get a dial caliper or digital caliper cheap these days. I like the dial better but have both.

@JamesRCPlaneTech 11 месяцев назад

Thanks Tom, i have few calipers but they are not the dial type, I should pick one up or a digital one. Ill check the Wen sander also. Thanks

@JamesRCPlaneTech 11 месяцев назад

Also, I have a hand sander but always thought it was too beefy for kits, then the other day I pulled out my oscillating multi tool that I tried on the hardwood spar, and I was pleasantly surprised that I enough control and it worked well. i posted a short with that. My eyes have been opened to using some of these other tools now!

@joepellissier2091 11 месяцев назад

Well done. Looking forward to the rest of the build. Now that you are using the clear plastic wrap to cover you plans, how do you feel about it? You can see the plans better but how is removal? I have used wax paper and more recently started using parchment paper. Neither are great for removal afterwards.

@JamesRCPlaneTech 11 месяцев назад

I like the clear wrap, I decided to get the cheaper store brand because I didn’t want to have trouble with it being too clingy when rolling it out. So this stuff worked great, it comes out easily and sets down with little hassle. And it works great! I put a lot of epoxy on the wing brace and it dripped down and the plastic just pealed off. Thanks for the suggestion.

@ThomasBrock74 6 месяцев назад

Dude what are you thinking?You're not supposed to send that spar down level with the freaking ribs.You run your sheeting up to the spar.And stop and then you go on the other side of the spar and start the sheeting again and run it to the leading edge.And it butts up against the spar.You don't stand this spar down.Flush with the ribs that's crazy.

@JamesRCPlaneTech 6 месяцев назад

No, the plans and instructions show the top of the spar flush with the ribs. The sheeting extends from the leading edge and over the spar and stops at the rear edge of the spar, butting up against the rib cap strips. The problem with this kit is that there seems to be some QA/QC issues. For example the spar notches in the ribs were too big for the spar. I think the problem is that this is an old kit and they converted it to laser cut, but the laser cutting doesn't completely match the older die cutting, so for example they cut the spar notches too big. There are other issues as well.

@JamesRCPlaneTech 6 месяцев назад

And thanks …