Great video as always! I'm surprised how similar the results are between colors. I wish the manufacturers would publish full material info on the SDS including the dyes they use per color. I have a bunch of colors of PLA+ from this one brand: bright white, gray, black, dark blue, light blue, and yellow. Every color except yellow prints great at any temp from 205°C to 225°C, including the bright white that looks like it is composed of 50% titanium dioxide. But the yellow one has garbage layer adhesion - I can use my fingernail to split the layers apart! - if I print it below 220°C, and it turns into a puddle at 225°C.
@@MyTechFunOh, I'm excited to see what you do with those! eSun PLA+ apparently has amazing performance when annealed, btw. Someone found the optimal temperature for annealing it was 80°C packed in powdered salt, which reduced its creep by 70%. I think that the Inland PLA+ I have might actually be manufactured by eSun, but I haven't been able to get SDSs for them. Hopefully I'll be able to compare its performance data with some future videos you publish :) Thanks as always for your videos.
I would really love to see a deep scientific study into whether glass fiber/carbon fiber particles of a size likely to cause lung cancer come off of these filaments as they are being printed and the head rubs over the top of filament its laying down, presumably releasing some into the air. I've avoided filled filaments due to this lack of information and it feels like the whole printing community might be sitting on a little asbestos problem of sorts there that we've not bothered to check.
I've always heard in injection molding circles that blue ABS is notorious for being difficult to work with, though I have no experience with it myself and may be more of a supplier issue. Are there any plants to test natural abs gf, or does Bambu not offer that in their catalog?
Using the same GCODE for each print makes sense since it's the same material and brand, but it should be first calibrated for the proper extrusion multiplier/flow multiplier, to get results comparable for different brands.
I forgot this machine calibrates (roughly not accurately) on its own, hence the comment. It's still valid in general: Igor's tests are top notch but he does not calibrate flow even when he does multi brand or multi material comparisons so it would be a nice improvement if the parts were made more comparable
Actually why not making a video just about that: improvements in strength which can be obtained by performing filament-specific flow calibration over standard profiles.
bambu states that their CF filament is extensively tested on 0.4 mm nozzles and they even recommend printing on one. that would mean that the fibers are shorter which would mean this is meant more for texture than engineering purposes OR they are using more expensive thinner aerospace grade carbon fibers in the filament.....not knowing this is why I'm reluctant to buy this filalment
1. It is barely more expensive than the regular abs so why not buy it 2. If it prevents warps and enhances dimensional stability, then the fibers are not just for looks.
Great work as always! Fiber reinforced filaments have so many benefits. I'm wondering if including some kind of fun or practical print that is a bit less scientific, but a bit more relatable could increase your views. Maybe something exciting to start the video off with. I'm thinking a lamp shade test to see if any melt, or a trash can that you toss a heavy object into and see if any break after three tries, making a small wheel and seeing what kind of load it can take while rolling. Then after the practical test you can make a hypothesis about strength, temperature handling, or impact resistance before seeing if the test results align. Just some brain storming thoughts.
In the future, would it be possible to measure the permanent deformation of the C-bending creep test objects after they have the weight removed on the last day? Like take the weights off and give them five minutes to recover unloaded. I'm curious whether different filaments that have similar loaded creep distances always have similar amounts of permanent deformation. Thank you for publishing your test objects, by the way. I've started printing them out for the various filaments I use regularly. I'm also going to be exploring the effects of a bunch of different slicer settings on layer adhesion. Cheers!
Finally an actual video with some real results and information, not just some silly influencer thoughts and feelings. Well done sir, I hope your channel continues to grow because I want to see more like this!
I have been printing with the black for about a week and a half for various projects and I have been loving it. I do a bunch of manual tuning even though I'm using an x1c to get my dimensional accuracies perfect, but this filament does it well
When printing vertically, you can make the object thicker on the holes part. Check the settings, part cooling may be stronger when printing the hole, making the layer adhesion weaker. Or you can create a holders without pins, similar to this (visible at 6:45): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Q-20o5AKWX8.htmlsi=jUKNF3O36tDdc1Bk&t=405
Do you have plans to review Quidi Ultra-ABS? It is a co-extruded filament (like Phaetus Nex-ABS) with a 25% GF ABS core and an outer fully ABS sheath to (potentially) improve layer adhesion. It prints wonderfully but I have no idea if the properties are any better 😅
Igor, nice video. This helps to make choices in which material to use. This ABS-GF looks very interesting compared with normal ABS. That we need to use a hardened nozzle is a little donwside but is seems to worth is. Thanks!
Now this is what I call 3D printing. Though honestly the best thing I got out of this is knowing that Bambu Lab's white is actually white not some manky cream colour.
So far this is my favorite filament. Prints really nice, finish is excellent, very stable, strong enough and actually I feel it has a lower smell. With my bento box going I can’t smell anything.
Something I may have missed or was not actually mentioned is the percentage of glass fibre within the ABS. I have been using Fusrock ABS 10% but there is also 25% mix. So what is the Bambu Lab glass fibre percentage?
This can be determined by weight, burning off the ABS and weighing the glass residue. Something like 10 grams of filament should be enough, with a reasonably sensitive balance to weigh what's left.
Could you please test if regular filaments - PLA, PETG in WHITE color are abrasive for copper and brass nozzles, just because of the colouring agent used to create white color.
Bambu labs seems super generous when sending out rolls of filament to 3d printing influencers / reviewers. Meanwhile, they're currently refusing to honor their 2-hour cancellation policy and I'm stuck with 2 rolls I mistakenly ordered in the wrong color.
I like the ABS-GF. You can print with 0.16mm. No layer lines to see. And no warping. It prints better, looks better and feels better than normal ABS. But it cost more.
Great videos, I find them very useful! I wonder if you may get more interest if you also compare print settings and the impacts they have on the filaments? I know this would take a lot of work however
Is a mask, glasses and gloves needed to wear when handling the filament or the printed parts? How to laminate the surface not to distribute the strains of the glass fiber?
How big is your standard deviation? I would bet, that we have all quite similar values here, at least all within 1σ. If you look at the values from CNCkitchen, you can often see 5% or larger standard deviations, so I would say your test did not show that you have noticeable differences. You say so yourself in your conclusion, but this is at the end of the video, while you said x is best in this test, etc. If people only look at this part, it might be confusing, and they do not get the full picture. All in all some pretty interesting data to compare to other filaments, but I do not see the differentiation between the different colors.
I don't have enough samples to calculate standard deviation. At least 3 from each would be necessary. I cannot be compared to CNCKitchen. If he publish any video, it will get approx 300k views. I get 3k. So I put amount of work which is enough to satisfy my curiosity. I can't afford more.
For Bambu filaments 0.4mm is enough, however they started to recommend bigger if you have one. Some other brands strictly recommends 0.6mm (I even had a clog trying with smaller one).
I complained about the premiere post but I want to make sure you know that I still absolutely love the actual content, including this awesome video! An idea/request for a future video. Would you consider making a video or maybe even a video series about filaments that are a good choice for bigger prints. To be exact, which filaments show the most promise when it comes to both adhesion and most importantly to warping. Especially warping both mid print but also after printing. Some filaments seem to stay flat/adhered to the bed but once you pull them off they warp due to internal stresses. This type of comparison would be especially interesting now that we are getting more and more printers with enclosures (including the Prusa XL which I just ordered the enclosure for) and even heated chambers. However just because you have an enclosure doesn't mean that the printed part will actually hold its dimensionality. Some will flex/lift upwards, others will shrink overall more than others. Does glass fibre fill filament perform better than carbon fibre ones to counter those issues? Do some filaments not benefit from this type of fills at all? How much does printing fast vs slow impact warping (with our without enclosure)? I recently watched a new video from Clough42 who talked about trying different filaments for a bigger part with gemeotry that leads to warping etc and finding the best filament for that (he likes ABS with GF fill). This made me think that it would be great to have someone with a methodical approach compare the performance of different filaments for this. Maybe to keep the amount of work doable you could focus only on filaments that should be printed in an enclosure only, filaments that are not made just to look nice ... and only add 1 PLA and 1 PETG one as a simple reference. Bigger prints are often done for cases (eg. storage) or enclosures of products (electronics etc). And due to the character of such prints they often have walls which will create a shrinking/pulling force lifting up corners. Hence the test object would need to have a geometry that mimics that behaviour.
Have you considered the E3D Obxidian for Bambu? They now have them fully assembled . They are designed for highly abrasive filaments and high flow rates. Another great review.
the E3D one made for Bambu is the HF variant so if it gets clogged you cant do a cold pull. the only alternative is the panda revo by BTT but without PID calibration print Q degrades
@@senurasenaratne5782 A cold pull can be done. It's documented in E3D's FAQ on the nozzle. Quoted below: "Can you cold pull the E3D ObX HF Bambu HotEnd? Yes, you can! The ObXidian coating is designed to withstand the force of a cold pull, however it can be a little bit challenging compared to a typical nozzle due to the internal construction. "
I suspect the difference has more to do with manufacturing variance than with the color. It would be interesting to see a repeat of this test in a few months with the same filamentes but from different batches.
Great testing but I think it would be more interesting to compare one of these to other more common materials or different brands of the same material.
I can't stand these premier posts.... always hated them. They just clutter up your starting/subs page instead of an actual video. And they get your hopes up for nothing. 4 of the first 8 thumbnails on my sub page are currently these "upcoming" thumbnails. I wish there was a way to disable this feature on the viewers side.
@@riba2233I figured out a really clean solution by using a filter command which you can simply add to an adblocker (eg. ublock origin)... it makes these "upcoming" thumbnails disappear.
Measuring dimensional accuracy has little relevance: if anyone cares, they should scale the part after doing a Califlower test. You don't just trust the part will be as designed...
