I feel like bambu labs is using you as guide for how they are sending you these printers, while I enjoy watching many 3d printing content creators you are the one I go to to see installs, fixes, info and if I had a p1p I wanted to upgrade to p1s I wouldnt trust any other video more than yours.
I purchased a P1P a few weeks ago because I felt I would only print PLA and having $100 of filament was better than side panels. I also use a temperature controlled room IE closet with heater, so maybe I can get away with printing ABS too.
@@pimpyourprinter $100 in filament was worth more than an enclosure that would be used to print material I don’t need. Plus my local store was out of the P1S and had the P1P in stock.
Alan, thank you for the discussion on the print-yourself shroud. I'll be vulnerable and admit I was not proud of my prints and as a result thought it was me and the printer I built and tuned at fault and quietly said nothing. It's someone like you that keeps me willing to try new things. Thanks a lot.
13:55 re PLA with an enclosed P1S I have the X1C, and I essentially run it _only_ with the closed door and the closed top cover. I also have only printed PLA so far, without _any issues._ This includes kinda big parts like the Hydra AMS parts that I'm printing right now. Closing an X1C or P1S doesn't have detrimental effects on PLA printing as far as I have seen.
Its is not recommended to print with the door closed for PLA as this can introduce heat creep and clog the extruder. I've gone through 2 so far so use me as a cautionary tale lol you may be playing with fire.
@@odj310388both your povs are interesting. I will use a glass riser anyways, there's even some design with adjustable vents. It's unbelievable that a prosumer grade printer, opposite of a business oriented one like at best the X1C, can't print PLA as basic material and is only suitable for hi temp applications. The truth should stand in between. Working with the front door opened is out of question btw. It would even require to recalibrate the vibration compensation...
You cannot (a miss in my opinion). However it hasn’t been an issue for me, I just slice for the P1S in BambuStudio. It warns you that you’ve sliced for a “different” machine, but after you hit “ok” it goes through fine. The latest OrcaSlicer update removed that warning, and I just use OS anyway.
@@MandicReally that's good to know, thanks! I think I'm probably going to keep my p1p as is for pla prints and get an x1 for the engineering filaments. Thanks for the honest review!
Dude ❤ How can I pay you a coffee? Is it fine like 5000 sats? Give me a LN address. One thing: After watched 3 times Bambu's tutorials and 2 times your adjusted process video, I WAS SO INSPIRED THAT YOU SHOWN HOW TO AVOID SCREWIN THE BACKPLATE AND THE FRONT 200 TIMES THAT I FORGOT YOU CLEARLY SAID only at the half ov your video THAT WE HAD TO PRINT A PART OURSELVES BEFORE DISMANTLING THE ONLY PRINTER I HAVE. Dude I feel so stupid that I think I'm deserving this.
You know, I'm so used to having various printers that it didn't occur to me. I'm sorry I didn't think to mention that at the start, it would have been a really good thing to start with. "Hey print this first!". Thanks for the kind words. The comment helps, you don't have to do more. If you do wish to, there is a "Thanks" button under the video (you may have to click the 3 dots ... next to Share). That is a "Super Thanks" and will send me a tip if you did that.
Let's see! I'm not a fan of the fiat currency but a tip is a tip and you've well deserved it. For the print... I've seen now that I'm at the point where I've only left dismantled the rear panel, the extrusor group is reassembled and the front glass hinges are on. I think I could finish mounting the chain drive and send a print before going on with the assembly. (I'll better do tomorrow. Got lost in a spliff and a movie after dinner and it's 1am here oops!)@@MandicReally Thanks again!
Haha. That’s how all my video footage looks before I color correct it. It’s a “LOG” video profile that has more dynamic range than standard footage. Problem is, you have to remember to actually color correct it… and I missed 2 clips. 😅 I almost re-exported the entire video but then I said screw it and left it in to see how long it would take someone to comment. You got it fast. 😂
Have you noticed that after the upgrade, when the printer starts its initial calibration, im sure the toolhead comes forward and hits / makes contact with the bottom edge of the inside of the P1S top plastic cover?, cant be right surely?
As far as I've just manually checked, the track end of the gantry lacks at least 5mm to even reach the closed glass. The new front panel should be safe.
I should say that the BIG flaw is the confusion about the printer actually not identifying itself as a P1S after the rebuild. Im not sure if i had done the rebuild if i have known this from the beginning. It now says P1S on the new plastic of the printer. In the menu of the printer it says P1P under device name. In the slicer i should add Gcode to make it work and at this stage im not sure what profiles i should use. Thats the hot topic about this rebuild.... Not your fault though, nice video!
I raised this issue with Bambu. I don't see why there cannot be a simple menu option to update the firmware to P1S. Something like a file that they provide on an SD card with the upgrade kit wouldn't be difficult. I didn't mess with any g-code editing, I just use P1S profiles for the machine now, but it warns me before every print "This G-Code is for a different machine", which is just silly.
@8:57 - i'm the original author of this fan duct which i made before the P1S was even announced - there is a thing to point out though: the remix of my model you've used is intended for 38 mm fans, the original fan that comes with the upgrade kit is a 25 mm fan - so you have lots of empty space behind, that is not optimal for airflow - some fans come with a 9 mm foam padding (for no reason whatsoever) the original model (also printing without supports now) comes in different thicknesses, to solve this issue
Yea, I had to stack foam tape to make a gasket. I believe the kit should have come with a gasket but I think I misplaced it... I'll update the link to your original version.
@@MandicReally it is a shame the the supply of Bambu Lab is so inconsistent, some come with a gasket some don't also the thing with the Mainboard fan is odd, some of the boards have heatsinks with rotated fins, some don't I've also made a model for the MB fan to mount it properly so it actually does something and not just blow into a solid fin 😅
This is valuable thanks dude! I'll measure the fan and probably stick with the original design. Have to decide which one to print for my baby here, on today possibly. Which is the best standard option you would recommend me? I have the kit as received and I mostly print PLA but going to experiment some PETG today, and TPU for sure. More advanced materials probably in a yet unknown future. Thanks!
@@suit1337 oh ok, I got that, the case has to be made in PETG at least, TPU is just one of the materials I plan to print most, if it matters in the fan casing choice. My question was which one of the designs/remixes of your file do you recommend me, and if you can throw me the link!
Not a chance, we’d have to have firmware access and a lot more data to make that happen. There is a decent upgrade option (that I’ve not tried at all) that Modbot showed a bit ago: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XCYwEz-h4BY.htmlsi=44IMPl2C8oTYm8Ap
@@MandicReally That mod is great. It is very cheap and simple to add and works well. I normally control the printer from Orcaslicer, but when at the printer and I want to do something like warm the chamber, using the touch screen is so much faster than using the stock display.
Just finished printing and setting up all of my ARC enclosure parts, have a printed vent riser, and have all of the upgrade parts for the P1P-P1S, The board controller fan sucked lol so glad I didnt drop/lose a screw from that heatsink :D Your video was very helpful for orientation of the fans! Will also use it to follow along with the PTFE chain install. :) Oh, I did have a quick question, what screws are used to install the chamber fan mount?
It will be fine as the fan screws into the side panel. The support isn't required really at all. I had one printed but didn't install it in this video because it isn't necessary. The support was really only needed when you didn't have side panels on the P1P or on the early X1 where it didn't have screws holding it on.
I just did this upgrade to my P1P. Should I add a new printer (P1S) in Bambu slicer? I think I should, now enclosed the bed temps may need to be lowered as compared to the open air of the P1P?
Yes, use the P1S printer profile. It will enable the fans properly without further requirements from you. BambuStudio will warn you EVERY print that "This is for a different printer" but it will work just fine. They need to fix that issue. OrcaSlicer (a fork of BambuStudio) has fixed this and you won't get that warning if you use OrcaSlicer.
Geesh I wish I didn't do this upgrade to my P1P. Since then, I've had nothing but issues, things not calibrating correctly, print head smashing into the frame and both sides of my textured plate ended up with serous gouges on it. I've opened up a ticket with Bambu and I don't know what to do, it's dead in the water now.
Wow, the worst design I've seen, they must have been drunk when they drew it, what a shame when they wake up and realize that, oh, we missed that some more screws are needed, we can put them a little randomly, never mind that it will be at weird angles.Oh, we need a mother board and fans, ok, we'll put them in this corner so it's as difficult to access and cramped as possible, ridiculous. How many screws were there in the end 70-80 -100pcs! You can hope that you never have to disassemble and reassemble it again.
I gave up on waiting for the Kits to be in stock. It's been 6 months now. I just printed the sides and chain myself to color code my machines and ordered the remaining parts. $182 after taxes.
I will buy P1S right after they add proper big touchscreen to it and when they add noise canceling things form A1 and make it quiet. I can’t run loud printers in my apartment for hours thru the night and I don’t want to listen to it either.
I can tell you from experience the X1C and P1P both start to break down constantly after 6 months of heavy use. When you add their almost non-existent support it becomes a problem.
I’ve been running my X-1 since the first Kickstarter shipments and haven’t had too many issues. The Toolhead board was flakey a while back and that is it. It has its quirks but overall has held up pretty well so far for me.
I've had a couple of P1Ps running almost full time since Feb without any hardware issues at all, and have since added a couple of P1Ss and have many friends with these machines. Breakdowns seem almost non-existent in my circle
i notice u dont mention adding the fan to the machine gcode ? it shows it in the bambu instructional video but when i went to do it myself it wanted to created a copy profile instead of modifying the main profile is it necessary ? i think it mainly relates to the main controller fan
I just started using the P1S profile. It throws a dumb error before each print but works fine. I should have included either a statement about what I’m doing or adding the g-code. I think Bambu should have a way to update the machine to fully identify as a P1S.
@@TheOystei @MandicReally yes ive 3 machines and all 3 are now p1s but only one was originally - when i print to it and check completed jobs in the bambu handy app it still refers to the 2 machines as p1p machines and i havent added the fan code yet i must try it later today when i get time
Printed it using stock Bambu profiles that just were not right for that part and material. But I needed this project done so speed was required over "pretty" on a part that will never be seen again.
Before the A1 launched. 😅 I meant to put a caption saying that. But actually they do have another new one. The X1E, engineering version with an internal heater.
@@MandicReallyah, thanks for the quick reply! That makes sense. I hadn't heard about an X1E, I'm curious to see how it would compare to the new QIDI Plus 3 and Max 3 printers, both enclosed and heated.
Is it really possible to print the Chamber Fan in PETG? PETG becomes soft at 70°C. Won't a print, e.g. with ABS, then reach higher internal temperatures?
I wonder if it’s possible for them to lay on release a kit to upgrade it to the X1C. I know it’ll require a bit more work, but it lets you buy pieces at a time and then sell your old P1 S parts to make some of that money back.
I noticed this immediately when I bought some P1S machines after having P1Ps for a long time. They're going to be adding the motor noise cancellation feature from the A1 Mini to the P and X models which should help
@@12Cortanayess I am checking where's possible to stick some thin acoustic panels inside tho I'm waiting to check how's with the heating before adding further thermal insulation (the sound panels).
One advantage the P1P has over the X1 is that the filament feeder tube is allowed to follow a more natural curvature sticking up a couple of inches over the top of the frame. If you're doing iffy filaments like TPU, it's nice to have as little obstruction as possible. The other features of this upgrade are nice, alas, as the host mentions, if you're doing PLA mostly it's nice to have it open for maximum cooling. But if I were to do this upgrade, I'd add some sort of riser on the top to keep the feeder tube unconstrained.
PETG is recommended by Bambu. I'd prefer ABS or ASA but without the enclosure that can be difficult. PETG will work fine for the most part. Also there are some VASTLY superior designs for that chamber fan enclosure that are now available on MakerWorld. I wouldn't print the Official Bambu one, that is for sure.
Hello Mandic one more question. I'm struggling to figure which step to get to in order to have the printer working temporarily to print the fan/filter case. Even with the screen dangling from the frame, just print that piece (my first PETG print btw) and go on with the assembly. A said yesterday evening. Any... suggestions about what I have to connect, to avoid screwin everything up? 😅
What screws did you use to attached the printed part to the backside itself and the fan to the printed part? My fan came with zero screws and I don’t seem to have screws long enough to secure the printed part to the printer itself as well as the fan
Another reason to get one is if you're like me and your printers are in an unheated garage in a cold state. I live in Michigan and I did install a wood stove out there but probably won't have it going as often as I have the printers going. I have a p1p and a p1s and already these past few weeks it got so cold out there it started messing with my prints on the p1p, but the p1s did great. I have boards I put up on the shelf to sort of help, but I can't enclose it all entirely because I print PLA, so really cold air makes it in that gap. It works out perfectly when I print with the p1s with the board up, and the top off. It lets it vent some of the hot air without cold air really getting in there. So I ordered the kit to upgrade the p1p but sadly it's taking forever to ship. I think it says it should ship by like mid november so at least I'll have it for most of the winter. I'm glad I saw this video before getting it, so now I know to print the no-supports version of that part. By the way if anyone reads this far, what material do I print that part in? Will PETG be okay?
That is the same kit, they just renamed it to that for some reason. SIlly change, likely their way of avoiding the issue of updating the firmware to acknowledge it as a P1S now.
@@MandicReally They explicitly say: "After enclosing the P1P, the printer definition will remain the same. It is not possible to change the printer definition from P1P to P1S after the enclosure." Do you know if any capabilities are missing from an upgraded P1P vs a P1S?
@@IainMcClatchie Nothing I'm aware of separates the two beyond arbitrary firmware definitions. The idea that it is "not possible" is just silly. Unless their firmware works unlike any other setups I'm aware of, I cant see why it shouldn't be possible to redefine the machine. I did lodge a complaint with a couple of my contacts at the company via email & in person. Doubt it will change anything, but it is all I can really do.
Hi, I want to ask how to set the upgraded printer in studio. How can I set the aux part fan for example? Or the chamber fan? If I use P1S profile it shows error that I am using wrong printer. Many thx
You can just ignore the error and keep going. That’s all I did. They have instructions on their wiki about adding the g-code but I say just run the P1S profile. I have been happily since this video. I’ve already talked to a couple folks at Bambu about correcting that issue.
Do you mean the front trim piece that says P1S now? The P1P version wraps around the corners of the printer to cap them off. The Side panels do that on the P1S. They are entirely different shapes, so the P1P piece no longer fits with the P1S side panels on.
Check out my other videos where I insulated my X1 Carbon to reduce noise & increase chamber heat. It helped but there is no "fix" for it. You cannot defeat physics, fast moving objects make noise, that's just how it is. If you want speed, you'll have noise.
Got to grab attention somehow. Really though, it’s a key part of the upgrade and the Bambu design is pretty terrible. As a designer myself I consider it a big deal.
It was offered to me but I’m out of space for more machines so I have to be rather picky about what I look at. I’m not trying to just check out every machine I’m interested in. Have to figure out how it can fit with content I want to make. So I turned it down.
It seems like you've touched on some of my notes for when I finally got around to doing the upgrade. A couple other little additions: 1. For the side panels, the smallest screws go on the top. 2. For the bottom door hinge, put the left screw in first at an angle. 3. For both side panels and the rear panel, there may be existing screws that were never removed as part of the instructions. Before screwing down a panel, just double check that all screws in the way of the new panel's holes have been removed. 4. You don't need to screw the fan into the Bambu Lab chamber fan shroud.
@@Sonofabliccy It's required. (Also, it takes a bit of time to print, so don't put off printing it out... like I did!) I forget exactly what spurred #4, but the four notes were part of a list that I wrote down while performing the upgrade myself. So, something may have suggested to screw the fan in to the 3D printed piece, but that wasn't required.
@@Sonofabliccy It's been a while, so I'm not entirely sure. I wouldn't be too surprised if I used PLA since that's what I have the most of and the print chamber doesn't really get that hot. Although, if you have PETG lying around, it wouldn't hurt to use it.
The P1S is probably the answer I’d jump to. Or the Qidi X-Plus 3 if you want a machine to print higher temp materials with. The Bambu machines a bit more polished overall though.
First time LOL :) It was easy. Dude, I've paid 0.36 in VAT to gift you 1.64. I don't know where the state was in our transaction, what could have possibly gone wrong that we had to pay it to say each other "Thank you". But we just gifted it 18% of your efforts anyways. There's a reason if I asked you for a Lightning Network (Bitcoin) address, before. ;) Thank you again anyways!
Great video, the heatsink is odd especcilly since the P1S heatsink has the fins the right way and they sell it sepratlly so could (should) be included in the kit. its $10 from Bambu
What's weird is that the older P1P units (like mine) have the heatsink oriented in the expected way. I also didn't have the tab slots on my P1P for the side panels, but my P1S upgrade side panels were the original panels that didn't have the tabs to begin with. 😅
Totally agree on the rant about the fan model.. But we still have to consider it's a "fail" on a very high level.. If this is the "biggest" problem then I consider this a well done job.
Agreed. Naming this video how I did was an “attention grabber”. In the scheme of things they did a really good job overall here. I wouldn’t expect as much from every company.
I've been back and forth for my first printer for a few days now I've been looking at the creality k1 and the p1p and I'm looking to use it as a hobby and to sell products online but don't wanna break the bank I just been so overwhelmed I don't know which to get.
The Bambu Lab machines are more user friendly in my opinion. The K1 is a good value for what it is, but I'd recommend it more for an experienced user. For a first printer, I'd recommend the P1P or P1S. Bambu's whole ecosystem is just a bit more straight forward and well documented. The K1 feels a bit rougher around the edges in almost every way.
@MandicReally The other thing holding me back qas that it isn't enclosed and the digital screen I really like the setup of the k1s screen but I lt may not be such a big deal after all I've 3d printed before in middle school and I enjoyed it. Also how would you be able to change filament/ color on a single project.
Companies are usually looking multiple years into the future. At least good ones are. So it is quite likely they had all the printers we currently know of planned for a while now. That said, the P1P also uses the same mounting holes for pretty much everything that the X1 has. That saves a lot on manufacturing costs to produce the machine, and left the door open to the P1S being made.
The chassis is the same for the X1 and P1 series. It would cost more to modify it. Some additional tooling cost would come from the plastic panels on the P1S, but most of the parts are identical. The A1 is obviously a quite different design. Will be interesting to see if they produce a scaled-up version of that machine. The AMS is a weak point of the X1 / P1 system, so I expect that to be replaced by something like what they made for the A1.
The most likely use for the enclosure is higher chamber temps to print things like ABS/ASA, but I never see any mention of what kinds of temperature it can reach and how well it works without active heating and without a chamber thermometer. I have an enclosed Ender 6 that can only reach mid 40s with just bed heating, so curious what this upgrade can reach with that big open poop shoot.
Yea, I've barely run the machine since completing this so I cannot say what temps it reaches yet. The bed in the P1P/S doesn't get as hot as the X1 so it likely won't be paritcularly great chamber temps. Sufficient for ABS/ASA I'd imagine. Realistically, a lack of drafts and a little above ambient temp goes a long way with those materials. My X-1 only reaches 50C on average. My Voron 2.4 is usually around 40C when printing ASA.
I run an enclosed p1p for around 9 months now, you can reach about 50°C if the abient temperature is ok Prusament ASA prints very well, ABS, mostly generic stuff, print OKish
Thanks for this! I've been mulling over the P12 upgrade to my P1P ever since it came out and your vid gives a fantastic view of what I'd be getting into. My P1P is already a bit of a franken-P since I added a cable chain and enclosure some time ago via 3rd-party kits. The official upgrade does look a lot more polished though and while I have the Aux fan already, getting the chamber fan and associated temperature management logic in place would be a plus (probably saving me from having to print PLA with the door open).
Just buy a P1S. Mmmmh, as my upgrade kit arrives I'll be rewatching this content I assume. Thanks for showing the process altogether, I... I kinda had some questions I didn't knew I had before you answered'em. :D
Your reasons for the upgrade as effectively why I bought the P1S to begin with. That said, I almost never leave the door open and my PLA prints turn out perfectly nearly all the time. The few failures I do have have never once been a temperature problem but a model problem. I largely print with Bambu filament but have printed with quite a bit of Elegoo Rapid PLA+ (Which I wound on to an empty Bambu spool to trick the ams into believing it was bambu and it printed the entire spool perfectly), Overture and a couple of others I can't remember at this moment. Heck the only filament I've had any trouble with at all is ABS and that was just typical ABS things. As for noise, honestly it sits 3 or 4 feet away from my desk and rarely bothers me. I wear headphones when at my PC anyhow so the little noise it creates is honestly ignoreable.
it heavily depends in the ambient temperature when you are below 20°C a closed door is ok, but during summer with ambient well over 30°C you risk heat creep it just depends where your printer is located
@@suit1337 Well it isn't below 20 in here and certainly isn't above 30. My office is in my basement and temps are fairly stable. Usually around 21C give or take a little. So that probably plays a role, but I doubt it is thee only factor. Personally if your working area is in your house and above 30c, I think you have bigger problems to worry about.
Its is not recommended to print with the door closed for PLA as this can introduce heat creep and clog the extruder. I've gone through 2 so far so use me as a cautionary tale lol you may be playing with fire.
@@OmegaGamingNetwork here in Austria it is pretty warm AC is not the standard and until last week I had 27°C indoors in my office outside temperatures are absolutely insane, my garden feels like early summer, tomatoes and chilies are blooming again yes, with 30°C ambient indoor you have a whole other problem, it is called global warming and climate change 😏
Legally not how it works. I do have to disclose when products are supplied but that does not equate to a “sponsorship”. Sponsorships come with monetary exchange, contracts, and guidelines on what is being presented and how. In situations like this, products are sent and there are no requirements. I don’t have to ever produce a video with them or speak kindly of the company, etc. It is hard for most folks to understand, but receiving free product becomes a burden after a little while. When you don’t have space or time to manage it all, it piles up and becomes a nuisance & liability. Also I don’t like to sell products that are supplied to me as that muddy’s the monetary exchange waters. So then I have to facilitate giving away the various machines I don’t have need of. It adds up to a lot of work that I make $0 directly from.
I would have just oriented the fan thing to print vertically. Still would have a little support for those tabs that stick out on the side, but I don’t get why you just didn’t do that.
That’s the orientation they intended (3MF file had it all setup). Those little nubs for the fan would never have printed in a vertical orientation. And super tall supports are likelier to fail than the short ones the flat orientation needed. Either way was going to be a bad print so I went with what they intended. For a lot of folks they may not know better to mess with the settings that way anyway.
Bambu gifted a $599 printer, to your partner, so you can review it and profit from it, without reporting it as income as it belongs to your partner. Clever. ;) Of course, I'm assuming you're earning income from this review. If not, I sincerely apologize but lesson has been learned. Thank you!
The discussion of what is “profit” plays in then. I make money on videos. But I’ve yet to produce a review that paid for the materials I used (filament) let alone the time investment. I disclosed the machine was provided, but a “sponsorship” that doesn’t necessarily constitute. I get why people view it that way of course.
@@MandicReally I understand your point but to be clear, I'm not referring to profit, I'm referring to income. Profit is the net earnings, or loss, after expenses. Earnings, according to the IRS, can be in the form of cash (fiat) or material (barter). Receiving any materials you you intend to keep , in this case Bambu, >$100 for review purposes and from which you receive compensation, whether RU-vid or the provider of the materials, must be reported as income (even if you don't receive a 1099). So, to further my point, while your partner received the gift, you benefit from reviewing it without having to report it to the IRS. Further, you can also expense any filament used during testing reducing your taxable income. Also, this assumes the item's not a loaner. That's what I think is clever.
Can't wait till Bambu steals the design for the lesser supported model and then throws it behind a pay wall on makerworld or makes an injection molded version of it and makes you pay for it.
They definitely do embrace community developed improvements! But they do it the right way from what I've seen. They give credit to who did the work - like with the improvements imported from OrcaSlicer software, they publicly thanked the creators and did it in a way that everyone knew about it. It wasn't hidden away in some random post on their website. I also haven't seen them charge money for anything community developed that they've embraced or try and charge licensing fees for other people making money by selling branded upgrades for bambu printers. They've got a good business going and it's at least in part because they seem to understand the value of having a good reputation in the community.
They deserve your sarcasm. But they're not so dumb to "tell the internet what to do" expecially since we're all makers. It's just a little shame that design flaw, not keeping the level of the rest of the build.
By the sounds of it he said the support less model needed a support and wasn't perfect, so it could be improved by anyone get after it if you want to put your money where your keyboard finger is
