Now I'm undecided again. The bandsaw conversion is what got me interested in this subject in the first place. I had decided on getting a variac as it is cleaner and involved fewer components. I DO have 3 treadmills now , as of yesterday, and as a result, I have more components at hand. Maybe I will try this first as it will require less $ outlay . Thank you, again, for all your research and instruction, I am learning a good deal.
My MC2100 bandsaw conversion was a failure. I stuck the blade and burned up the board. see linked video. IMHO the SCR is the best option. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yMkW2SXl_sA.htmlsi=ZweBepIi-TYpAaaj
First off, you're the Man! Second, I am treadmill converting my lathe and I am using the MC1200 (because I'm cheap and I already have it) and like you I dislike the soft start. It is handy to have the button ON/OFF on the PWM box but trying to find the little button to start and stop the lathe would be troublesome for me. So, I was messing around with it and found if you run a separate remote switch to the PWM+ (blue) wire you can bypass the small button to a much more user friendly START/STOP switch. P.S. you can also set separate UP and DN parameters on the two modes of the PWM box. Vary handy. Just though I would share my two cents worth.
Also after some more messing around I figured out if you hold down the on/off button on the PWM box you can select Powe on for start up or power off for start up. With that being said it would be possable to run the PWM + (blue) wire to a dubble pull dubble through switch with the mains power and defeat the soft start with one switch. Maybe it will work? Edit: it won't work there needs to be a delay in the contact. Oh well it was a good thought.
That is immediately what I thought when I read your post about breaking the blue wire to get past it. Too bad about the delay but there is an easy fix, all you would need is a time delay normally open relay. When master power comes on it would wait a second or two then close the circuit and connect the blue wire. That is a fantastic idea for a new video. I will get one ordered .
Thank you so much for this valuable info. One thing I'm missing is magnet size/strength. I lost it when I initially salvaged the treadmill. I'm going to use this setup to make a pottery wheel. One of my challenges will be to convert a pedal input to the rotary dial on the controller. I think I'm going to use a gear rack with the round gear on the controller input knob. I'll send photo and drawing when I get that worked out. I'm also now considering how to make a rod or something that mechanically bumps the on/off when starting from zero to get around the soft start.
Very much appreciate your work with this stuff. I'm very interested in converting a consumer grade bandsaw to run slowly enough for metal cutting in my own, non-commercial garage.
Thank you for greatly increasing my knowledge for my future project, (mini lathe). I was wondering if you had a link to the sensor, tach input, you are using? After watching your videos, I'm confident enough to move forward. Thanks.
I think have a mc2100 board. I want do away with the original controller panel. I want to get of it because of its size. It has the pong plug with about 6-7 wires in it. I've watched several of your videos but I didn't see anywhere witch wires I use to hook up to my 3 wire reostate. Sorry if I missed the video.
If it’s an mc2100 you can’t use a potentiometer. You need a signal generator. This video has all the information you need. Programming XY KPWM & ZK PP1K PWM Signal Generator For Use With an MC2100 Treadmill Motor Controller ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jLqcvYD_Mnk.html
Love your videos sir. I'm not sure if you made any videos regarding the change out of an induction motor to your pmdc motor, the diy adaptor. But I would love to see that.
@@dazecars I guess that I didn't ask the right question. Yes I have watched most of your dc motor speed control videos regarding control boards and scrs. I'm asking now about adapting these motors to say a drill press. I have two. Would like to remove the induction motor and replace it with one of my small treadmill motors. Making that cordless would also be cool.
You asked the right questions I just wasn’t specific enough with my answer 😁😁 here are a couple videos ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZQbyAHPLf5A.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-C2p6pPNBPmg.html
been watching and learning alot from you in the video you did not show or maybe you did not instal the display to show the rpm on digital display is there a way to connect digital display to mc 2100 treadmill speed controller? your input greatly appreciated Thank you!
The "tack input" is just for board operation. There is no signal output that I am aware of to tap into so that you can add a display. You would need to use an autonomous RPM meter and corresponding sensor.
What is the pwm unit you are using? I'm using an Arduino to provide the pwm sugnal to the mc-2100 running the treamill motor on my lathe as well as provide an lcd readout of the tach, but yours looks to be a little simpler to use and might be a good way to go on the bandsaw I'm planning to build.
It is just a normally open magnetic signal switch not an actual tachometer. It’s providing the tach signal to the board so it can better maintain speed.
I have a mc-2100 from a Shwinn treadmill and the 2.5 hp motor. I need some help determining the right connectors to attach my pwm to the board. Can anyone help?
This video has that info Variable Speed Power Supply, Treadmill Motor Controller Boards: MC-02, MC-60, MC-2000 or MC-2100 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RikeVYxITUQ.html
There is really not much else to add. The signal comes from a simple magnetic switch. The input is two connections that get connected every time the magnet passes the switch. It is not a tach in the RPM readout sense but rather a direct signal from the motor to the MC2100
@@dazecars I've heard since that it's a reed switch, or at least reed switches are what DIYers are using. I didn't think reed switches were fast enough, but apparently they are. And hall effect sensors require power therefore would have three pins, but I couldn't see the socket in the video. Thanks for the info.
I checked the links and they are functionng properly. People contact me through my website all the time, must be somthing on your end. Try left clicking the link or use a different web browser.
