Bare Metal? Which is best? DTM, Epoxy, Urethane, self etch primer, sealer? 

This video has been the best explaining how to select the right combination. All of the manufacturers' videos are junk. None of them explain the complete procedure and you cannot find any useful information on their website as well. This was very informative. Thanks a bunch.

Finally a complete understandable break down.... Thank You!

As an ASE master tech since 1978, I am not a painter but have done 6 or 7 of our own (3 boys) but this was clear information about the way to make you project last. Rock chips to bare metal can spiderweb rust under the paint 6” all directions and I was shocked to see that. Epoxy to me “Is” the place to start on cleaned, prepped bare metal. Some have a 24 he window while others have 7 days. The ASTM “Salt Spray” test in hours tell you everything. Epoxy is sticking to everything with chemical cross-linking, solvents evaporating with almost a plastic wrap type protection. At 6’ 3” and big hands, spend the $6 for a rattle can spray handle. It makes it so easy to control, overlap and speed because your thumb is not changing best practices for applying a finish, even if it’s under the vehicle. With practice, 10% quaility urethane reducer added to an epoxy product makes a smooth sealer. I prefer the word primer not even be on the can but it is. As always, follow manufacturers product sheets and measure properly using good overlap and your base will stick to epoxy, epoxy sticks to your paint ready project. Now a rock chip may not flake off as easy. Son, I subscribed and liked what I heard. You will do well and some side-by-side destruction test panels. That will get attention. I too don’t care for DTM coatings because I have seen the feathered edges of primer and filler lift & curl as the acid eats into it. That kills your day! Thanks for the information!

Here's PPGs definition of "properly prepared" What Does "Properly Prepared Bare Metal" Mean? In many of our product data sheets, you may notice this or a similar statement under the Compatible Surfaces or Substrates section: “May be applied over properly prepared and treated bare metal”. But what does this mean? This means that your bare metal substrate must be properly sanded and treated with an appropriate direct-to-metal product such as an SX metal treatment, etch primer, or epoxy primer prior to applying anything else. These coatings insure adhesion for subsequent layers over the bare metal as well as provide additional corrosion protection. This step is especially important when using urethane primers or sealers. Their chemistry typically does not provide adhesion to bare metal - they must only be used over treated bare metal to insure optimum adhesion. So if you happen to sand through to metal, apply a bit of etch primer to insure it sticks! Soooooo--- If you sandblast or aggressively sand steel panels you remove the phosphate coating, which is the first step to protect steel from rusting. There are 2 basic ways to replace the phosphate coating: metal prep/acid wash--and--self etching primer. Epoxy primers do not convert or stop rust chemically, and most of the popular epoxy primers have little film build, long cure times and can absorb moisture and solvent--PLUS--most epoxy primer tech sheets recommend treating the metal with metal prep/acid wash for the best corrosion protection. Over the last 50 years, lead, zinc and chromate have been removed by law from paints. These are heavy molecules added to paints to protect from Ultra Violet, chemicals and moisture. The acid in metal prep (phosphoric acid) can affect the hardner part of epoxy primers causing them to air dry but not cure partially or completely. This is why most epoxy primer tech sheets recommend completely neutralizing the acid/metal prep before applying epoxy primer. Epoxy primers have been "sales promoted" pretty heavily in the last 50 years. I remember PPG/Ditzler promoting their DP40 primers with "Just DP it and Forget it", but that was back when DP epoxy primer actually had lead in it and they kept on promoting it because they knew regulations were already removing lead from paint products. Now they are selling DPLF (lead free) epoxy primer. Back then, if I needed to use epoxy (on restorations) I used DPU 35 epoxy (from their aircraft and industrial line) which had 3 times the film build and cured at least 3 times faster-and contained lead. We used metal prep on rusty steel first, and then the DPU35-per PPG tech sheets. Today, I see PPG has some really nice high build epoxy primers (again from their industrial products) that are becoming popular for high end restorations--VP2050 and CRE-X21--of course lead and chromate free. These are quite expensive and still are recommended over properly treated steel (metal conditioner). For the "informed" hobbyist, I recommend the following on sandblasted steel: 1)Sandblast- carefully to avoid warping. 2)DA sand the sandblasted steel with 180 or 80 grit to soften the blast profile/texture. This helps keep the acid in self etching primer from being trapped in the texture (sandblast profile)--watch out not to apply too heavy of a coat. 3)prime the steel with a "mild" self etching primer (chemical adhesion) followed by at least 2 coats of hi-build 2K urethane primer. This (self etch) will neutralize rust in the pores of the sandblasted steel and the (2K) will add a moisture proof layer to protect during storage. 4) When you are ready to do rust repair or filler, you can cut out the replacement areas and repair/weld and do body filler either by grinding off the primer before filler or sanding the(good quality) 2K and applying filler on it (mechanical adhesion). I prefer filler on bare steel, but good fillers will adhere to good cured 2K. If you do either way, remember to sand far enough out on the areas to reprime (over filler) so you have good adhesion. Also if you apply the reprime 2K too heavy, the solvents can lift/wrinkle your filler edge. Etch primer There are 2 basic etch primers- VINYL WASH primer-has more etching capability but no film thickness or build. It needs to be topcoated with a fill primer or sealer and then paint. This type of etch primer should NOT be put over Bondo. It is for bare metal only. MILD ETCH PRIMER WITH SOLIDS-has a milder etch and some fill. It CAN be applied over Bondo. Vari-prime (DUPONT),Wash primer EM (SIKKENS AKSO/NOBEL) are a couple of names that come to mind. This can also be topcoated with a filler primer or primer sealer or directly with paint (industrial application.) You have to check and see what system/brand you are going to use and then get the technical info on the application requirements and read and follow the manufacturers instructions. DO NOT use metal prep before applying etch primer-it needs just a microscopic amount of oxidation to bond with. The phosphoric acid in the etch primer is usually less than 2.5% (by volume) but that bonds with Iron oxide (rust) to form Iron phosphate which is the etching/phosphatiing process. Removing all the rust with metal prep/conditioner (phosphoric acid) will leave nothing for the primer to bond to and can lead to peeling. These systems usually go as follows: Vinyl wash primer-1 medium wet coat (.5 mil) over clean, dry, sanded/sandblasted bare metal. You can see through this coat-its very transparent (vinyl resin). This followed-probably within 30 minutes (wet on wet-no sanding) by a good catalyzed 2 part filler primer for filling and sanding (5-20 mils). Or in straight refinish (trailers/industrial) applications-vinyl wash primer followed wet on wet by a non-sanding primer sealer(1.5-3 mils)-followed by paint. With the milder etch primer you prepare the metal the same-do your bondo work then clean and apply the milder etchprimer (1-2 mils) followed wet on wet/no sanding (probably within 30 minutes- read the tech sheet for the product) by a good catalyzed 2 part filler primer for sanding and blocking. For project cars I usually rough out the metal-do my filler work on the large areas then use the mild etch primer followed by 2 part filler primer. Then for smaller areas I can use the spot filler/ catalyzed glazing putty over the sanded filler primer to smooth out small imperfections. I will probably reprime areas that need more fill and block sanding-then on to paint. If it is going to sit for as while, I prep the steel-then etch prime (either one) followed by good 2 part filler primer. Then when I'm ready for bondo work, I just hit the repair area with a grinder to bare metal and do my bondo work followed by the filler primer. Epoxy primers DO NOT etch the metal. They bond by mechanical adhesion. There are many different epoxies for specific applications. You need to research what will do the job for your intended purpose for which ever primer/paint system you are going to use. The acid in etching primers can cause the epoxy primer catalyst/hardner to change chemically and not cure or possibly fail/peel. The acid in etch primers slows down the catalytic reaction of the hardner in Bondo/body filler (polyester resin-catalyst MEK peroxide). If you put bondo over etch primer and there is still a minute amount of residual acid-you could have a failure/loss of adhesion etc. The amount of acid is very minimal in these primers. It is mixed with a solvent to reduce/thin the primer. If the etch primer is not fully dry and cured there COULD BE be residual acid/solvent in the primer film which could cause the reactions described above. Self etching primers/wash primers, typically have about 5% phosphoric acid (the etch part) in the hardner/reducer that is mixed 1 to 1 with the primer. This makes the acid content of the mixed primer around 2.5%. Acid is always converting with other substances/compounds like the iron oxide in the steel and the solids part of the etch primer or even the compounds in the 2K primer applied over the etch primer. Eventually all the acid will convert and become non-acid compounds. If your etch primer is applied too heavy it can trap solvents in the film which contain a small amount of acid. There is no real accurate way to know the acid content remaining in a heavy application, so it is best to manage your application to avoid this--don't pound it on!--and be VERY CAREFUL in cold shop conditions, as cold panels and air temperature will slow solvent evaporation and the cure of products with a catalyst/hardner. Self etch primer followed by a good 2K primer is an excellent system/foundation for restoration and custom work and you can shop for products that have good quality and price. It also makes an excellent storage coating for projects that won't be completed soon and is still compatible with almost all of the paint systems available for automotive refinish.

Thank you for taking the time to do this video. It was very helpful

I'm still not 100% certain on the science of these things.. but this is BY FAR the best explanation of the differences I've come across and I highly appreciate you brother.

Great presentation. I was wondering how to approach my 1972 Ford Gran Torino Sport diff and this answered all of my questions. Best breakdown I have seen. Good job.

Some good info here, but some misinformation aswell... Most self etch primers do not need to be primed over top. You can top coat most self etch primers after they flash off. I use RM self etch everyday in my paint booth. It is used over burn throughs in paint or primer, prior to painting. Also you do not have to use sealer over most primers. You can paint over sanded urethane primer. Sealer is used to create a uniform surface when panels are spot primed or when a certain colour needs a ground coat. I believe the only exceptions are when you prime with a polyester primer, then it needs to be sealed with primer sealer or urethane primer applied over the polyester. The other times we use sealer is when painting bare plastic bumpers and other parts. But the sealer must contain adhesion promoters.

And this what makes PPG DP90 so popular in the industry , it’s literally 2 products in one deposing on how you mix it , as dtm or as a sealer , just buy the additive to make it sealer and done .

Good video. I think a lot of people that try 1k rattle can epoxy, don't clean well then do a dust coat, before they pile it on. Rattle cans are tricky, you got to really shake them up good. It also helps to put them in warm water to warm up the paint a little IMO. If your can has been hitting in doors and the paint is say 72 degrees, its not going to flow as well as a can that is say 85deg.

I keep coming back to this video as I do my 63 Biscayne. Good video with great information - Thanks!

I sand blasted my Model A. Then sprayed it with epoxy. It took me a while to get the body work done. I sanded everything with 120 after then sprayed with another coat of epoxy. Then spayed with high build primer. I’m now sanding that high build primer with 320 now. Should I spray with epoxy once more or should I use reducer in high build primer 4:1:2 and spray it as a sealer before base coating? Or have I gone about the whole thing the wrong way. I’m a damn good mechanic but this body work and paint stuff takes some serious skill and patience. My wife says I’m too much of a perfectionist but after putting this much work into something, I want it to look good and last a long time afterwords. Oh and all the primer I sprayed using Harbor Freight throw away spray guns. (Didn’t throw them away, just cleaned them well after each use) just an hour ago I ordered a devilblss spray gun. It cost me a good chunk but want that base coat and clear to lay down perfectly. Any advise on the tip I need to use for base coat and clear? Sorry for writing a novel but I like your way of explaining things and value any advise you can give. Thank you for everything!

Thank you!! I am in the process of restoring my 1947 John Deere B tractor and your video was very helpful. Impressed enough to SUBSCRIBE.

Thanks a million, I am working on my Avenger and needed a little guidance and you provide that and more

God bless you for all your useful information about priming. Many beginers get confused what chose and when. Many thanks for your experience and explanations

100% support your statement about the all in one primer paint. I used to use that to cover rusted spots on frame and suspension of my semi. Even w when cleaning all the rust, rust came through, which is exactly why I'm here learning about primer

Thanks for the feedback Eddie I'm currently restoring my 55 handyman and my paint supplier guy said use all epoxy on it I'm on my 8th coat of epoxy I put two coats on bare metal block sandwich 180 do all my body work

Thanks Eddie! Excellent explanation of nuanced choices & technology. Maybe the VHT would lay down better if it’s warmed up in a hot water bath.

Very helpful,. I have recently transferred to working as a sandblaster/ painter and this clip was very clear on what can be a difficult chemistry process.

I lay paint down overtop off self etching primer. When I did my 98 I D/A sanded it all down did all the bodywork laid down three coats of Pro Forum self etching primer blocked the primer each coat then went directly to paint this is how I do all my projects and I've yet to have a problem did my 98 years ago still looks great.

Thanks you answered some real questions that I had about primers. I am just starting to learn about painting.

I'm currently restoring my 2004 GT. Thank you for the valuable information!!!

Ive been needing all this info in one place for so long! thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and helping people with their projects

Yeah, it’s a little longer video, but it actually explains the differences between the primers. Seen many videos on RU-vid that claim to but dont

I’ve been searching RU-vid for weeks, trying to research about primers, and everything I’ve been wanting to know, is mostly in your video! Thank you! I wish you would do one on aluminum now, LOL

Yeah, it's pretty hard to beat a good quality Epoxy 👍

Hey man, thank you for this video. I sanded my rear quarter panels and trunk down to bare metal. I have just cans sadly but have gotten great results. It’s a 1k base coat but 2k clear with hardener. I was wondering what would be best to seal the bare metal out of a can. I was thinking self etch all of the bare metal, scuff, 2k primer, then do a wet 600 to smooth it out, base, clear. What are your thoughts? Thank you for your help🙏🏼

Good job explaining the various materials. I understood every thing you said as I used to work in the industry. Good job.

Excellent video very very helpful in explaining the difference in primers answered my questions. THANKS

Not too long at all. The information you gave is very helpful and complete. You actually covered a lot of information.

Now, others have said that if you spray another primer over self etching primer it makes the self etching primer soften up and lift

Great breakdown was very helpful. Now we go paint!

bare metal , deoxidine , etch prime ( with catalyst ) 2k high build primer

Very good explanation here.

Man I appreciate you so much I was getting ready to do a big mistake

u must test brtunox! It works as primer and rust inhibitor. But its wery expensive. But it has its place. It the best to repair bare metal undersides where there is rust. It will kill rust in pours... will work as primer and sealer!

Started out in the 70s using PPG DP primers on all bare steel. DP got phased out to the DPLF....its good but I think the old was better. The enviro whackos took care of that. I still use epoxy primers to this day, never any failures. Never did care for the acid based primers. The new DTM or DT to substrate primers seem pretty good, I have been using those primers lately. I have never used anything from a bomb can on a vehicle except for maybe as a guide coat, but thats just me.

What a good explain to understand all the primers purpose thank you for the explanation to understand much more better.

Thanks, for a very informative video. You answered a lot of my questions. Happy Thanksgiving

This guy knows what he is talking about always use epoxy primer on bare metal and sealing before a paint job always nib sand after sealing for a cleaner job or there is a direct to metal black for chassis and that works very well hard knocks for 30 years

I never used a self etch primer I just paint my own vehicles myself but haven't got a good paint job when painted my truck before but will probably paint my truck again between April-June messed up last time sanding epoxy primer last year but shouldn't of did it got orange peel on truck used a regular clear but this year will apply a glamour clear but still gonna apply a metallic base on my truck but painting my car too from a black that is now to midnight purple. Will be using a DTM epoxy primer though. Never used a glamour clear before just a regular clear urethane clear but using a urethane base.

Surprised you didn't mention DTM Epoxy primers. I've used it several times on freshly blasted metal and bare steal and I love it. Sprays and levels nicely.

Hi Eddie I applied a coat of self etching primer over my chassis. Can I apply a second coat of the same self etching primer the next day or will the acid affect the previous coating?

Excellent video! Very informative. Thanks for the info.

I am working on rocker panels on my 02 GMC Sierra. I don’t know what to do though, my paint supplier told me that once I welded in my new panels to take any spot I needed filler down to bare metal. So I did and applied my filler and sanded the filler down, he then sold me Pro Form DTM 2K High Build Primer, it’s a urethane, and he said to use it over everything, so I block sanded it all with 220, I had spots of oem paint, the new panel had its black coating on it, I had bare metal, and my filler. So after blocking everything with 220 I used the DTM High Build over everything and did 3 coats. I’ve blocked it down just today and I have a few spots of exposed metal yet. I was planning to spray again and block again. But I don’t know what to do because I’m not going straight to paint and it could be months before I apply sealer to it. What should I do? It’s too late to redo my filler work. So I can’t use my epoxy primer. The truck is in a heated garage through the winter and will be inside the whole time. I’m also a total beginner and 17 years old, I’m trying to do it properly but I’m not sure what steps I should take at this point. It was a very informative video thank you but what would you do?

I was thinking you self etching, phosphoric acid with zinc, and then use the DTM

Awesome info... i am doing some rust repair on my car roof... ill need to sandblast just a bit in a few spots, i may need to put a small piece of fiberglass in a dime sized hole, then a bit of bondo. So my process would be: Blast , clean, self etch , primer sealer/surfacer, fiberglass, a bit of bondo or putty, sanding in between, primer, base coat, clear coat?

Eddie I am an older man with little to no body work experience. I have an old 67 C10 that someone painted purple over the nice original medium blue color inside and out everywhere. I am sanding down areas and exposing bondo filled holes for side mirror mounting etc. I am exposing metal in places and want to continue to remove this purple paint. This will take time and will expose more metal. What do you suggest I do or use when I expose these areas to protect the metal as I slowly continue to work on this truck? I like the video and the information and look forward to the feedback.

I enjoyed your video. Subscribed! I have a couple questions. I had my car glass blasted. I plan to epoxy primer and in some areas go direct with por15 (wheel wells). I had to store the car in a pourus garage in the Midwest. I applied Eastwood fast etch to slow the flash rust and every cloth I used linted on the rough surface like mad. I will remove the fast etch with prepared. What is my best option for cleaning off the lint? Scuff pads even seem to leave stuff on the surface. Also after I clean the surface would you recommend I prime before por15. Thank you very much for your time and advice

No one uses sealer in Europe, all primers are direct to metal here too and paint goes straight onto the high build primer .

Thx for the info! Nice to know difference. Coming from the mechanical side of the industry. Never ready knew the what to use for what. Just used whatever was available at the time. LOL 1. Question: is self etching good for aluminum? That’s what we use at work on aluminum wheels on the inside bead to help stop corrosion. What are thoughts on that… Thanks again

Thank you. You Def answered my questions. I have a 03' Police interceptor and you know what the paint does on them. So I am going to sand it to the metal and get to it. Thanx again brother.

Thanks so much for the good info. Can you tell me what is the best spray can product I can use on bare metal to prevent rust before using body filler on top of it?

Great discussion. Thank you!

Thank you so much for the help! So if I have a mix of patched panels on my cab and spots of old primer would I be able to better to just take the pieces one by one into a local shop to save money? I can’t pay for a 30k paint job right now.

Very good explanation and information. Thanks

Thanks for the great detail explaining. Not long at all we need that info

Nicely Done! 💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥 Ive been saying for a while that epoxy primer is the way to go... Put some Hot Rod Black or Pitch Black KBS Max Seal over it (UV protection) for a top coat and it will last a lifetime!!!! You can mix the both of them to get a Semi Gloss or Satin Black... My question is though what would you recommend on the high heat surfaces? Like Engine blocks, brake rotor hats and calipers? Can the Epoxy still be alright? And then go with a Poly/Urethane top coat? Or will only an Acrylic Enamel or Ceramic have to Work? (I do know that the Ceramic paint for a base is the best on headers/exhaust manifolds and those Enamel/Ceramic combos that they use fir clear coats) I do know that some of the guys swear by brushing on the Rust-Oleum Rusty Metal Primer on Engine blocks, but have to heat up the metal with a blowtorch or something with high heat first to get any moisture out of the metal block (especially an iron block because of it's porous nature, another words prep work will determine the quality and is key!!! So after getting moisture out, wipe entire block down with acetone, then a final wipe with Isopropyl Alcohol, denatured Alcohol, or a surface prep degreaser... Like what you did there on the explanations of the Acid in self etching primers...

Great informative video. Thanks a lot.

Thank you for explaining everything in this video. I really appreciate it just like everyone else. I did wanna point out though, that at the end you shot down self etching primer for time consumption factors 14:51 yet in the beginning of the video 5:05 you noted it was a plus for time as opposed to epoxy primer. Did I misunderstand? Again thank you for breaking it all down in one place. Sure had me taking notes 😅

Hi there - I have a rusted washing machine lid (with bits of metal coming off), which I will treat with rust converter, and a wire brush and possibly a sander to get all the rust out. I was thinking maybe I could use auto bondo filler to repair the rusted lid & sand down. I am confused on what to use & the order of steps, if you can help please. 🤣 Is it remove rust > convert > epoxy primer > bondo > sand > base coat > clear coat? I'm leaning towards using epoxy primer (not etch primer), since the lid needs to be water resistant & since I need to use bondo? If the epoxy primer is white, and I don't care about the finish, can I use the epoxy > bondo > epoxy > clear? Also, what's primer surfacer & epoxy enamel? Are either required in my situation? Thank you!!! 🤙

I use appliance epoxy paint for my suspension pieces it works great

Great job with explaining. I plan on using muriatic acid to get rid of my rust. What do you recommend? I plan on painting the interior with an epoxy primer and then paint. But holding off on the exterior for about 6-8 months. What should I use??

So I have some rust i sanded down area used bondo filler, sprayed self etching then rustolum sandals primer. It started to bubble. Thought it was from not letting sandable primer dry between coats.

Im a newbie and my trouble was paint swelling. I used self etch primer and it would "desert" around putty edges no matter what i did. After i sanded it, applied more, sanded, applyied more and tried to spray paint - i got real nasty swelling of paint. Maybe sealer is actually for that reason? I ended up with 2k epoxy primer and it seems to have helped.

Brilliant clear information

Can you paint epoxy primer over PPG Durathane DTM? I'm scared to do it if it won't stick or some weird chemical reaction. Killer video! I learned so much!

Does that mean that fading (on epoxy primer) will be a degradation of the layer and it needs sanded and re-applied down the road vs a scuff and topcoat?

I'm starting my next project 1936 coupe you answered my questions thanks but I don't want to spend alot of money on primer what's what's low budget but good epoxy primer for a DYI

Great video and info…. Would it be a good idea to cover a whole flatbed with epoxy primer prior to painting it with a bed liner paint such as Herculiner or Rhino liner?? Thanks!!!

what a great video let me ask you a specific question. If i strip a hood to bare metal, is it safe to use specifically SEM etch primer (aerosol), scuff with red scotchbrite, then spray over it with Hi Tech 1k primer/sealer? You say "surfacer or high build." Hi Tech 1k is "low build" on tds. Is it still sufficient to use over etch primer? Thanks

Great complete video. Not to long as well. I have used that Krylon before great results wasn't looking for durability. My question is how would you handle a rusty door bottom that was sandblasted?

very informative. i have a hood taken to bare metal, i planned to do filler work to bare metal, then epoxy over the bodywork then polyester prime over the epoxy. do you think that would be ok?

Great info, and right to the point with it. 2 questions. If I do rust repair, cut out a spot on a fender, weld new metal in, can epoxy primer come in contact with the part of the panel that still has paint on it in the surrounding area? Second, from your vid and the products you showed I am guessing true epoxy primer is not available in rattle cans? Thank you for the help.

Then epoxy primer its the way to go?? On rusted cleaned bare metal panel?

Does high build primer go over epoxy primer? Do I need to sand? Great video - THANK YOU!!

What about just Rustoleum Automotive Primer over bare metal that is clean and dry rust free with a 80 grit scuff?

Great video, very informative.

Very helpful video thanks

Thank you for this 😊

I’m a bit confused. I have 67 Chevelle. Let’s say I blast the body down to bare metal but I still need to do bodywork. Everyone keeps repeating “you can’t sand epoxy primer” so why would you spray bare metal with epoxy primer knowing you need to do bodywork but can’t sand it? I think there’s always some confusion on that. So what’s the solution to a bare steel body freshly blasted that you want to protect while you’re spending a year doing body work like patch panels and fillers etc?

Awesome informative video.

Thank you for å good and informative video. 👍

Great information thanks for sharing

Great info thank you sir.

Thanku ,very informative and accurate...God Bless

I am painting boat trailer fenders that are rusty. I am using paint striper to remove the existing paint and then sand and clean. Next I was going to use rust converter because they are really rusty then seal with epoxy primer then paint with top coat! Is that correct procedure? Also can you recommend good spray paint can topcoat???

Good video and informative

nice video.very good information...subbed👍🏼

Can you use epoxy primer over a burn through and chipped a small spot on my vehicle.

What about Isopon rust inhibiting zinc primer on bare metal?

Can you use epoxy vth over etching primer

good job...thx✌

How can a paint that comes out of a can be considered "epoxy" without an activator?

a few questions (1.) if using black epoxy primer if I just clearcoat it then its UV stable right?? (2.) I want to put some metal flake in the paint job should I lay down some 2 coats epoxy with no flake then just 1 top coat of epoxy with flake in and then 3 coats clearcoat over the epoxy , or do my 3 coats of epoxy then a coat of clear with metal flake an then 2 coats of clearcoat over that?? And it is just for my front and rear differentials, driveshafts, and springs and I have it in stock and need to save some money an hoping to not have to buy more paint.. thank for sharing

Good input ! Thanx

There's really never a reason to use self-etching primer. If you are in a production shop, you should just use a DTM surfacer and you're done.

What particular degreaser do you recommend after sanding before applying epoxy primer? Also, when sanding the rust off the metal, do you recommend finishing it off with a fine high grit sand paper to get it ultra smooth or it’s not necessary? Thanks!

I'm getting a frame sandblasted so is 2k epoxy primer in rattle can the way to go .

Thank you!