I’ve watched so many of these videos, for years... and still can’t hand sharpen worth a shit 😂 but it gives me hope knowing it’s possible when I watch these videos
My advice would be don't give up. I couldn't get hair popping sharp for a couple years until just recently when it all came together. It took me lots of practice.
I have ruined many cheap knives in practice. Only sharpen knives when you know you have the patience to do so. Anything else is a waste of effort. Also be sure you have some decent stones.
Sir. I have been watching and learning from your videos for quite a while now, and it just occurred to me that I have never posted to one of them in appreciation. So, this is to clear that up. Your videos have been very helpful to me and I have picked up several new methods from you since I first found your channel. You have helped me leave little drops of blood on my work bench many times. Thank you Sir. Your effort is very much appreciated by myself and everyone who brings me knives they can't get an edge on. Be safe, stay sharp.
Thank-you, I've been sharpening knives for 30 years, but never convex edges, your videos have helped me a lot. I'm also into Bark River now because of you and the DBK boys, so thanks for that too.
If you had to start with only 3 Shapton sharpening stones - what grits would you choose as your baseline to use in order to get your knives scary sharp?
The 1000 is real necessary as a coarse stone. The 1500 is very useful as a standard stone. The 5000 will be an alternative to Chosera 3000 as a finishing stone. I think you can pass on the 2000.
i just bough my first BRK... dont want to mess this(sharpening) up for sure. every other video rotates the blade to get the tip yet you only raise the handle. i think ill just raise the handle. ha love watching your videos.
I have 3 Bark River knives, all of them relatively new. I haven't used them much and have not needed to sharpen them yet. I'm worried I will mess up the edge.
Wow, how I would love to have you close by, I would pay you to sharpen every knife that I own, I have been sharpening my knives myself for many years and I keep them hair shaving sharp but I would like to try your sharpening skills out. I can't tell from a video but your sharpening skills may be better than my own and I believe in keeping my tools and knives in top notch performance and a dull knife is a dangerous knife. Thankyou for the video and I will practice and see if I can tell the difference between the two methods of sharpening, I learned from my father and grandfather, I am 61 years old and pretty much stuck in my way with everything I have learned but always ready to try different things
I only have the cheaper sharpening stones, but I seem to get all my knives razor sharp, I have even sharpened a knife on the back of a porcelain coffee/tea cup, I then stropped it with some razor Fungus to dress the blade, it still shaved my leg hairs, perhaps sharpening is more to do with good technique and not givivg up, once when I was learning to sharpen a blade it took me 4 times until I had sharpened that knife properly, so do not give up, this takes practice.
It's absolutely true. Once I learned to hold the edge under a light to see any dull spots, my apexes improved tremendously and I started getting shaving edges on very modest stones. I regularly use a Mercer combo 400/1K and if I do my part I get great results. It's been a year and I still run into things that puzzle me but you just keep plugging away and eventually you see how you need to adjust. That said, zowie that Shapton 1500 was cutting fast.
How do you keep the straight part of the blade even? I struggle to keep mine perfectly straight. If I lay the edge down on a flat surface I can see areas where light shines through.
If you work both sides the same amount and avoid the bur.... your knife will last longer, remain STRAIGHT, and actually have a tougher edge. Other than that I agree. Stop forming a bur people!!!!!!! It's all simple geometry and texteurizing the apex. Dynamic thought process. Or not...
I was wondering if you could put your sharpening stone on a scale as you sharpen so that we can observe how much pressure you apply as you sharpen. I've been watching your videos for a while, but I can not for the life of me ever get my knives as sharp as yours.
Add used wet stones to sharpen my bark river but sort of ruined the blade finish. It made it polished like a mirror finish on different parts of the handle. It used to have that satin look to it. Not sure if that’s because I laid it to flat down on the stone. Any idea?
I am distrustful of Berk River and DLT production control. Occasionally, knives were not built more than a year after the pre-order, and production orders are not on a first-come, first-served basis. It is completely unknown what they prioritize in production. It looks beautiful in terms of price, but the quality is not very good. If you care about the sharpness, re-sharpening is indispensable.
I had a coworker try and tell me that putting a micro bevel on my Bark river would make it dull when I sharped it and that he knew better because he made knives...I shut him up when my knife cut through paper towel and his homemade knife that he sharpened didn't 😆😆 I said nothing and went back to work because the result spoke for itself
Love your video's. Trying to learn more about sharpen technics from you. You are very aggressive. No fear with that blade to stone. I notice you are going back are fourth rapidly. Is your pressure on the blade the same as you go back and fourth.
@@virtuoviceI'm sorry, I meant to say Shapton 1500. On some of your earlier videos, you used the Chosera 800 and the Chosera 3000. In this video you used the Shapton 1500 and the Chosera 3000.
@@michaelmitchell3440 Shapton 1500 is a little finer than Chosera 800 and just right as an initial sharpening stone. Maybe it is almost identical to Chosera 1000 which I don't have.
I have ever used a natural stone and know that its natural abrasive particles are much weaker than artificial ones. So I quit using it soon. Shapton and Chosera cut 100× faster.
Greetings friend, I dream of a bark river but it is not available in my country, I think to make convex descents on the Cold Steel Master hanter, do you think it is possible?
Hypnotic video. I have always struggled to use sharpening stones, how much pressure do you need to apply and how do you know you are at the correct angle.
The amount of pressure you use depends on what stage of the sharpening you are at, generally you use fairly light pressure to remove metal and then almost no pressure for the finishing stages. If your just trying to sharpen the knife at the angle of the pre-existing edge then you should be able to “feel” when the edge contacts the stone, it will sound different as well.
Hi dr Wako ! Greetings from France ! Thx for your amazing videos, they are great... I heard you like the scandi grinds : what do you think about the BRK Aurora Scandi Cru-wear ?
virtuovice thank you so much for taking the time to reply ! I m looking for my 1st BRK for bushcraft (not hunting), with a blade lenght around 4 / 4,5 in, and hesitate between aurora scandi cru-wear, aurora 3v classic and bravo1 cpm-3v... witch one do you think should be the best for wood, camp, bushcraft and a little meat ? 😊 thank you again for your advices and take care !!!
Hello Virtuovice So ..i bought my first Bark River knife , the Aurora II (wanted the aurora normal , but it´s COMPLETELEY sold out ..but the Aurora II ist GREAT! ) All my other knifes have Secondary Bevel or Scandi ..this is my first Knife i willsharpen fromBeginning on with Waterstones by Hand .. But not without experience ..i NEVER want to ruin the Blade of that PHANTASTIC Knife ..
Same thing happened to me. I really wanted the aurora because I prefer it’s blade length, but I cracked and just ordered the aurora 2. It should be getting delivered today. I really hope I like it and that the blade length isn’t too cumbersome for bushcraft use
@@1mataleo1 Hey , great to hear that you also have a Aurora II now .. i was spending 3 Weeks holiday on Mallorca (it was SO great) And the wood there is so much harder and tougher than here (Sea weather ..) The Edge after thre weeks some days making fire wood ..cutting food the edge is still awesome ..not razorsharp but NO chipping or Anything ..
Now that I’ve had it for a few days, I’m actually really glad I bought it. Even though it is larger than the Aurora, it is well balanced and doesn’t feel clumsy to use. The extra blade length might come in handy too, So I suppose things turned out for the best. Enjoy your knife
Which Bark River is that? I really like that sheath compared to some of the others offered by them. The retention loop is better placed on this knife. Bark River Knives are Fantastic!
A strop never makes the angle smaller. Only a hard plane does it. The arm pendulum motion on the knife handle makes a convex edge naturally on the hard plane. Please take it.
@@virtuovice in my opinion you have ruined a beautiful convex Edge a convex Edge needs that steep angle to support the edge, what you created was a standard flat ground knife. I've been to several knife making classes at Bark River Knife & Tool I am also an amateur knife maker. Please feel free to contact Mike Stewart at Bark River Knife & Tool in Escanaba Michigan Mike Will speak to you personally.
You dont know how lucky you are , the fuck on i had to get a bark river into the UK and delivered was the most annoying thing ever . I wish i lived near them they make the best fixed blades in the world hands down man , if you dont own one i would get one .
virtuovice thank you so much for taking the time to reply ! I m looking for my 1st BRK for bushcraft (not hunting), with a blade lenght around 4 / 4,5 in, and hesitate between aurora scandi cru-wear, aurora 3v classic and bravo1 cpm-3v... witch one do you think should be the best for wood, camp, bushcraft and a little meat ? 😊 thank you again for your advices and take care !!! You’re the greatest Knife People on YT 👍🏻
Aurora has a narrow blade and its edge angle is fairly large. Bravo1 has a guard design on the front end of the handle and it interferes power transfer. The choice depends on your preference. Thanks.
If this helps, when making feathersticks or doing woodwork, the Scandi grind will make a beautiful thin curl of wood, while the classic convex will curl, but it will bite deeper into the wood than the scandi. The scandi will slide along easier, IMHO. Then the Bravo looks cool, but the Auroras will baton easier because of the width of the 3V stock. The classic convex grind is actually easier to sharpen than a scandi also, because the wrist naturally works with a convex grind easier than a scandi. The handles can all be slightly customized to hand sizes with the inclusion of liners in the handles. So long answer short, Aurora classic 3V.
AvengingUnicorn AvengingUnicorn thx for your help, i finally bought an Aurora, and omg it’s the best knife îve ever seen ! So beautiful, so usefull, so handy... Many thx to Virtuovice for his advices, he was right, the Aurora has a narrow blade, but it’s perfect for all my needs (cooking and camp work). This knife is the best object i ve ever had. 👍🏻
@@inoperoscio Naniwa's artificial Nagura looks like a small piece of their same grit Chosera stone. So it will be very hard and produce less slurry than my natural Nagura does. But its slurry comprises strong abrasive and will make your sharpening even faster. I know their 2000 grit stone is on a soft side and it can be the one for you as a try.
Although I love this guy, he consistently sharpens one side of his blades more than the other. I think he does it because he likes the differential geometry, but for most this would be a mistake and should be avoided.
Everyone does bro there is no possible way you can perfectly OCD your way into your knife having perfect geometry.... get some sleep we need ya back on the front line boss...
