Yesssssssss🤩🤩😎😎 I was wondering when you would be posting a new video Sir. Love the overall plan but like you said unfortunately the shape didn't quite stay the same, but well done, really well done. 👍😉💪
Best I've seen so far is melt plastic between fiberglass or kevlar sheets with two layers if ceramic tile in front and tiles distroy bullet then obsorbed by plastic . Iff everything is melted together with plastic no need for glues
A few notes, because I like how you’re combining defensive tactics to defeat both force and penetration - 1) there should be a hard layer (even if just a thin layer of steel) in front of the UHDWPE layer. This is to heat and slow the round simultaneously. This should dramatically increase the efficiency of the UHDWPE layer since it will begin melting before the projectile arrives, and hopefully begin hardening and gripping the projectile before it’s done penetrating that plate ideally. 2. I think the weird shapes and ridges on those barrels you use are weakening the structure of the UHDWPE unless you’re using a hydraulic press to shape them. You’d spend less money buying commercial cutting boards. 3. In order to also increase the effectiveness of The UHDWPE, it may be a good idea to use a combination of Fiberglass sheets, silk, and or Kevlar sheets (alternating thread directions) and sealing with epoxy). It would probably work best with these cloths epoxied on the front and back of the UHDWPE layer because of the basic physics principle... well... I won’t go there. Just suffice it to say: coating both sides of even the weakest material will cause it to adopt the tensile strength of the added outer layers to a remarkable degree. This would also help with bonding the UHDWPE to the back panel. 3. Speaking of the back panel... everyone has their own opinion. You could try the ceramic array if you are liking it - but the weight and possibility for sparring are a little bit... meh. Idk. But EITHER WAY: you would most likely want to experiment with a trauma pad behind it. This way when testing, you aren’t having problems with your mannequin breaking all their fake ribs or getting chunks of ceramic embedded in their plastic skin - even if there isn’t penetration perse Edit: the more I think about it, I think I would personally move your array of tile to the front (increased chance of tumbling, increasing surface area when hitting the fiber/epoxy coated UHDWPE, making it proportionally more effective as a secondary layer), then after the other layers of weave I would save the steel and trauma pad for last. To clarify: I’m not giving advice. I don’t recommend trying it. Sounds like a pain. It’s just what I would personally do if I had a channel dedicated to it 😂
Some great points. I'm trying to avoid fiberglass at this point mostly because I hate working with the stuff. Also I'm trying to make this with materials most people can just go and buy or find. Kevlar would be great but don't know where I can go in real life to find it or buy it. I was thinking about putting the ceramic towards the front if this doesn't work out. For steel I was also thinking of sandwiching 1/8" of steel to the front and back and using bolts to attach it. These bolts would also, hopefully, compress the HDPE to add more density to help slow the bullet further. Lots of ideas but no time or resources to test them out unfortunately. Hard to do when you're working full time and have no energy after work (:
@@TheBeardedAxe I can send you some Kevlar! Hit me up, I would love to help. I have a ton extra from my last project. Plus, I’m buying some 1” thick UHDWPE cutting boards from Amazon soon for $20 a piece to try something similar so maybe if you want, I could send you something to test and smash on camera if you’re game for that. I have some old level 3A panels too I could probably spare one if you wanted it for contrast when you test your next panel you make. Sort of like a baseline control type thing, so people can see how what you’ve made reacts differently than what they already know and have sitting around. Edit: actually, if your UHDWPE layer is already thicker than 3/4”, do you think that maybe using a butane torch to soften the top (or broil setting on the oven) could allow you to embed your ceramic array into the UHDWPE directly? That may help with sparring
@@TheBeardedAxe I’m actually experimenting with something that would theoretically eliminate the need for Kevlar or Fiberglass and actually simplify your build potentially. Using nothing but household products on hand. I got the idea from a video done by NightHawkInLight on his harder borax based Starlight. Suspending the hexagonal ceramic array in this material may help to strengthen it while also optimizing the UHMWPE plate performance if it’s used behind the ceramic layer. Bonding the two layers using an epoxy I am planning to harden with a very novel combination of two materials that are normally very susceptible to static on their own, but when combined, clump into a rigid, uniform structure that’s almost impervious to static. It seems like it increased tensile strength and flexibility of the epoxy while also sticking to different textures just as well
You must be extremely capable to be able to come up with that and execute it. That’s proper science right there. But that wooden board tho. That shits toxic and obsolete now my man hahaha
Awesome to see you're making more homemade armor! Looking forward to the test. From my experience, the tile works best as the strike face on the front rather than the catch on the back. Really curious to see how it works out for you!
...there is something to be learned from failures. I wish at least one creator would put Chrono just before and after, to show speed reductions, with 1" HDPE, tiles, 1"computer paper, 1"aluminum plate, and also 1" fibreglass.maybe even just air.
thanks for showing this idea of making bulletproof materials‼️ my friends and relatives in Ukraine fighting for their country and their families with strongest and dangerous aggressor in the world we looking for every way to help them save lives if you can please help to develop level 3+ level 4 improvised DIY step by step method to make SAPI plates for our patriots and civilians in Ukraine easy made stand alone plate has to withstand against 7.62×39 LPS Mid Steel Core and 7.62×54R LPS Mid Steel Core rounds which Russian army troops commonly uses in general it equals 30-06 rounds but have some specifics such as a small steel penetrators inside bullets in the middle ...
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xcLkyXzqNU8.html This guy did some testing on some ceramic floor tiles that looks promising. He only used only used 2 layers with a thin steel plate on the back. I think some experimentation with 2 more ceramic plates and a thicker steel plate will yield better results. I'm trying to set up some testing of this current build and see how strong it is. I'll keep you posted.
This guy made a promising set of armor here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_GWm0-l5tbs.html You'll need some expensive tools and shop to set this up though. Demolition Ranch did some testing of it and it did pretty well.
@@TheBeardedAxe They have guns, guns are legal. Don't show their faces, or borrow the darn guns. You completely ruin the entire payoff of hours and hours of work molding, video editing etc to "preserve privacy" buy a gun yourself, or hire someone else to do it. IF in the UK, go to someplace like Bisley's shooting range and ask people to shoot it. I'm very very sure there are shooting ranges you can go to to get this tested AND recorded.
Oh and.. You want a thin hard outer layer, then a pressure dissipating layer then another hard layer. Thin layers of ceramic with sandwiched plastic will have a far greater effect, and be much thinner. Thin ceramic, 1mm titanium, 10mm of plastic. In that order. You blunt the bullet, you slow the bullet, then you catch the shards. Add a glue and fibreglass outerlayer to reduce spalling on hit and hold it all together.
Would it be possible to record the impacts without showing the shooter or rifle? Then you could just narrate the caliber. If you say these shots are from a 5.56 we the viewers don't know if they are from a Remington 700, Ar-15, M-16, or Tavor, same for .308, could be another Rem 700, an M14, or something else. A 30-06 could be shot out of your hunting Rem 700, a Garand, or heck even a BAR. Now each firearm would represent different muzzle velocities in each caliber but realistically it is more interesting to see how it holds up to each caliber then to the same bullet fired from different rifles.
@@hollyb1 that's the idea right now. I don't think I have enough surface area to test each rifle round but I would like to find where the breaking point is for this and so of course ideally the highest muzzle velocity for each caliber would be best. But beggers can't be choosers and what my friends bring to the test is what we get. I'll try to show the impacts and what the damage was done.
