Thanks man, no not done at all. Just getting started! But these personal car projects have had me at pretty much full capacity the last several months. Flirting with 10s in my 2017 stick shift car. And the turbo coupe project is about to come to life. Finishing the wiring right now. Started it for the first time in a month yesterday. It’s close! Gonna see if I can push a T5 car into the 9s. Lol.
I just got a chance to watch this video, and thanks a million for going to all the trouble! The last time I owned a fox was about 20 years ago and things have definitely changed since then lol my current car is also a far cry from the E-cammed, iron headed coupe I had back then. I look forward to working with you on this and thanks again!
I do enjoy the things you cover Buddy 🍀 I also have been watching the Brew2L Mustang channel. Yawl cover very similar stuff. He does a little more Under Hood examples but both of Yawl are killing it 🙏 keep up the Great work 💪😎👍🍀🌅🌃
Indeed. Definitely some quality content coming from Brew2L as well. Pretty soon we will be doing videos around some other tuning platforms like PimpXS and Holley Terminator, plus some Coyote stuff using HP Tuners software.
Wow seriously impressed by your depth of knowledge and concise advice. These videos are real lifesavers for people tuning the EEC-IV. Thanks for taking the time to share!
This is fantastic information. Thanks for sharing. Somewhat harder to follow since I'm working with a tweecer. I really like the way Binary Editor is laid out. Good stuff.. My fox has never idled so well. Aluminum flywheel hasn't helped.
I'm new to this but wouldn't the heads he changed also change the values and say intake also play a role but I get it as the cam really changes the duration and depth of valves this is showing me that it makes sense to once I get a cam heads intake changed to have it tuned by a professional I wouldn't have thought to do so thinking the computer would just adjust learned a good deal thanks
Mine has a stage 2 trick flow cam with a stock computer and I was thinking along these lines but this confirms. I watched the base idle reset videos and my car hates 700 rpm idle and . 95 volts. It idles much better around 800-850 and the voltage about 1.10. I adjusted idle and voltage down to match some videos I had watched but figured maybe the bigger cam doesn’t like those adjustments. Duh right. Mine just will not idle on its own at all on cold start for at least 3-4 minutes
Yeah the trickflow stage 2 has just enough overlap and chip to it that trying to maintain a factory 672 rpm idle just isn’t going to happen. And if you force the throttle stop screw open to hang rpms higher, you’ll lose about 6 degrees of idle timing without a custom tune. As for the cold start idling, it is also a fueling issue. I’m guessing you no longer have stock injectors or maf. When those components change and you run off stock computer, your startup enrichment could really suffer.
@@LeechMotorsports yes the injectors are bigger and there was an aftermarket maf on it but it didn’t run good at all, so it has the stock maf on it now. I bought the car like that a few weeks ago and the previous owner had very little info exacts on the motor. It’s frustrating trying to sort all this out. The car is a mismatch untuned nightmare at this point lol
At right about the ten minute mark, you mention a procedure to determine the amount of idle air needed for a particular engine combination. Is that based on displacement and volumetric efficiency at a given rpm? Can you please go into more detail on that, or perhaps make a short video on that procedure?
I do. Probably only about 10-15% of the eec-Iv tuning we’ve done us on cbaza though. We’ve worked with the stock, sailor bob, and core tuning strategy variants.
@@LeechMotorsports I use sailorbob's strategy. Is there a cbaza equivalent to the "ISC Adder vs RPM" function? I'm working on a 460 F250, and whenever I push in the clutch after decel fuel shutoff, the RPM drops to a point where it almost stalls.
@@d0peshow there are several ways to potentially address it. But the logic in cbaza is certainly quite a bit different than the gufx fox body stuff. I would suggest you start by looking at FN894
I'm having a problem with mine with a trick flow stage 2 and 11r heads, the idle ramps up to 2000 rpms when I'm driving and the only way to get it back down is to either shut it off and restart it or snap the throttle down and release really fast but idles fine after starting it up
That is a configuration issue. If the stop screw itself is adjusted how it should be, then either your IAC hold position needs to be lowered and/or your rpm above idle to start ramp needs to be raised. I like to set the rpm above idle to start ramp at about 100 rpms higher than wherever I normally cruise.
I hav a 2.3l lx convertible fox and its having stalling problems only wen i drive it a little and then come to a stop. I recently found that i had a vaccum leak. Of course i found this after cleaning my iac twice and checking and re-checking my tps voltage. Will my fox idle surge go away now?
Hey man, old vid but I got a 94, built 306 with an e303 cam and it sometimes stalls at idle. It’s in the stock computer, it was professionally tuned but I was thinking about going to a Holley terminator setup. Should I just get it retuned by someone better or is there any adjustment I can do? Or just go with with Holley computer?
It’s either a tuning issue or a mechanical problem. But my guess is a tuning issue. When the car was tuned, do you know if any adjustment was made to the throttle stop screw? We’re you told to never touch that again? Because of it is properly tuned, that screw will have to be set just right, and the entire turn will then be built around that stop screw position. If it changes even a little bit, you may encounter issues. I can 100% recommend staying with the stock computer and having the tune revised. Idle air control is the terminator’s weakest link, and is likely to give you many more problems to fight. Address the actual problems and your current setup should be good to go.
@@LeechMotorsports Thanks so much for the reply. The previous owner was the one who had it tuned. It was having idle issues when he sold it to me and I'm unsure if he ever messed with the throttle stop screw. Since then I've messed with it just trying to get it to not stall at idle anymore. It doesn't stall very often, just on rare occasion. Anyway, thanks for your input, I will stay with the stock computer and have it retuned. The tune it has smells a little rich anyway, I'm sure it could be much better. If I wasn't all the way in Florida I would take it to you guys.
@Leech Motorsports I have the exact same problem and was also told to never touch the throttle screw but car had issues and throttle screw was touched. 4 years later and car still runs like crap. So if I get a new retune what your saying is I need to have throttle screw set perfect first then tune it . Is that something a tuner should know how to do (set throttle screw properly) I think it's the air bleed screw personally tho. 95 stang
Also I have a hanging idle in between shifts and coming to a stop. And when I push clutch in my rpms rise during shifting making car sound like I can't drive a stick. And when cruzing at speeds when I take foot off of gas car just wants to coast it takes forever for rpms to drop. Any ideas had new build 5 years ago and still only put 500k on it due to issues . I'm out of ideas no one where I'm from can deal with this issue. Any help would be much appreciated.
If the car has a tendency to to “cruise control” on its own when you come off the throttle, then most likely your dashpot max preposition is too high, the dashpot offset scalar is too high, or the throttle stop screw is opened up way too far. If the ecu believes you are a still moving, it will also hold the valve open some based on the min dashpot clip for declutch.
My dad put a 351 in his 92 with a aluminum heads and stage 2 cam and right now when it idles it will start out good but then it starts like surging until it just dies. What can be done about this?
So the first thing is the computer needs to know the cubic inches. Without telling it that, it won’t understand the load calculations correctly which will impact spark and fuel throughout all operating conditions. You’ll likely want to bump idle timing a hair. Idle Rpms will need to go up as well. What computer are you using in the car? Do you already have a chip and software; or just running right off the stock computer?
what would a stage 1 cam need? i set the idle to 950 to be safe. the car never fast idles on a cold start, it never seems to react if i unplug the iac. also your opinion on the idle airflow adjuster plate?
If you’re tuning with a quarterhorse, the IAC adjusters plate won’t do anything for you that you can’t better control in the tune. If you can unplug the idle air valve while the car is Running and you notice zero difference, there are a few possibilities. First is that the valve is simply malfunctioning and never opening in the first place. Second is that you have cracked the throttle blade open so far that the computer has shut the valve down to its minimum allowed air flow (which is very close to zero). The third could be time related if the idle settings have been significantly altered. If you are data logging, pay attention to the idle air valve’s duty cycle during a warm stable idle. If the duty cycle is under 20%, it is likely the computer is no longer really able to control the idle and it’s closed as far is it can be. When this occurs, you are likely to see that the actual Rpms are a bit higher than the desired rpm the computer is trying to achieve. The other way to recognize this is when the idle spark is at the bottom of its range and is dead flat. If you’re close to where it should be, the idle spark should constantly fluctuate up and down as the car goes over or under the desired idle rpm. But when the car is in a constant state of running higher than desired Rpms, the computer will reduce the spark as far as it can, and it will be flat.
With a trickflow stage 1 cam, you should be able to get the car idling well at somewhere between 50-125 Rpms over stock. The only reason to raise it higher is for oil control or vacuum concerns.
The Leech sorry I forgot to mention I am not tuning at all. I have been trying to set idle properly for 3 years since my engine build 😂. Your videos have helped me understand the logic the computer uses. So if I understand correctly... a trick flow stage 1 will be able to idle slightly over stock, my idle is set at approximately 950. at this speed the idle air valve is never going to open.( why it won’t fast idle on cold start?) and that also explains why my car drops immediately to idle when clutch in... So here’s my build entirely. Stock bottom end, trick flow stage one street heat top end kit, 24 lb injectors with a matching pro m mass air meter. With this setup I should be idling at much lower than 950ish? And I don’t really need that idle air adjuster? If not, will I run into issues of the tps being out range (according to your video is .5-1.25v)? Sorry I know this is a lot to dump on you 😂 I finally might have answers to my idle problems I’ve been chasing for years
Yeah, definitely should be idling lower. The rapid drop you experience when clutching is the car not having a high enough amount of air coming through the valve while you are still on the throttle (dashpot preposition), the airflow dropping too quick (dashpot decay rate), the computer not having any idea how much air is actually coming though your throttle body directly, and the computer not knowing how much idle air the car really even needs to begin with. But yeah, with the idle screw cracked way open to hold the idle up, and no custom tune, you definitely need to make sure you don’t exceed 1.25v on the throttle position sensor. They make ads just able sensors that have zero effect on performance or airflow, but will allow you to keep the tps voltage hopefully in range. But it’s really still just a band aid. Tune is the way to do it right. I’d be happy to help you any time if you decide to take the plunge.
